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Statham’s Quarry Mini Guide
Statham’s Quarry is a fine example of an outdoor gym. It is packed with bolted routes
and offers a project for every climber – professional or punter. As a bonus, it is also
the ideal venue for a few burnouts or to throw your old TV from the clifftop. Statham’s
has been the scene of weddings, movies, abseiling accidents, epic redpoints and
many a brownpant moment.
Recently, like Mountain Quarry, a variety of parties have spent considerable time and
effort rebolting and removing loose rock from many routes. This has nurtured a
resurgence in quarry popularity and added significantly to the value and enjoyment of
rock climbing in the quarry.
Routes that have been rebolted, cleaned or otherwise improved with lower-offs
include:
Left Lateral Port Side Smidgen Winkler, Chips and Dips, Bat Chain Puller, Hammer
and Tongs and Morning Glory.
Special thanks should be given to those doing new routes and the rebolting crews.
Please don’t forget to donate to Safer Cliffs WA when you get the chance.
Feedback on the miniguide is very welcome. Descriptions and topos can always be
improved. Thanks also to Ross Weiter and the Perth 2002 Guide for lots of text and
route descriptions.
© Neil Gledhill 2008. Version 1.0.
NOD
CD
RLA
M
AdF
CR
* Agent de France 18m 23
Start 3m L of CR. Power up this gym monkey
challenge. 4 rings to lower-off. Some pointy
holds.
Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Jan 08
** Chain Reaction 20m 23
The route takes the overhanging arete on the L
of the orange wall past 4 ringbolts to lower-off.
Start well right of the first bolt. Climb it quick
before it gets downgraded….Best to do the
crux then clip the bolt.
Andrew Corbe, Alby Tangles 13 Nov 94
*** Real Life Ambition 15m 21
The pumpy open corner/crack with bolts and
lower-offs, 2m R of CR. One of the best climbs
in Perth at the grade. Technical, steep, pumpy
and lots of fun ! Lower-off and last bolt kindly
added by Weiter after FA.
Neil Gledhill, Jim Truscott, Wayne Carroll Sept
02
** Carbon Dogs 10m 25
Start as for NOD sharing 1st BR. Hard traverse
L then up finishing on arête with sequencey
climbing. Hard and pumpy, a credit to the
Whizz and his belay monkey. 2FBR and 3BR to
lower offs.
D. Zonta, M. Rosser Feb 07
No Ordinary Determination 10m 22
The overhung line to the right of RLA. It is
amazing that it has taken so long for this
sporting route to be climbed. Climb it like you
have a gremlin on your shoulder. A bit tricky
near the ground then able across the ledge and
up to the high crux. 5BR to lower offs.
M. Rosser, J. Truscott 19 Mar 06
Mourning 20m 16R
Climb the R edge of the large detached block
to its top. About 3m from the corner mantelshelf
onto the wall, then follow the corner straight up
and finish L. Many mourned their inability to
make the mantelshelf – it looks so simple.
Michael Adams, Tony Fowler about 70
Czech Mate 18m 22
A right trending line straight from the gym. A
jump start and an intimidating bulge. Very tricky
to onsight, especially if you are short.
Ross Weiter, Linda Antoncich Jul 04
Chickens 18m 26
Equipped Corbe. 5m right of CM. Tough for the
grade… tougher now the holds have fallen off.
Logan Barber Jul 03
* The Oubliette 15m 21/22
Start just left of LLPSSW at a fixed hanger with
a pleasant balancy move off some rubble. Be
careful not to fall into the oubliette and risk
ensnarement. Classy moves all the way,
especially the gaston mantle! The 3rd bolt
could be tricky to clip at the grade and some
may argue it is superfluous. But so what.
Neil Gledhill, Kate Swain, March 08
* Left Lateral Port-Side Smidgen Winkler
15m 21
Climb past bolts to thin flake crack. Follow the
bolted line to the loweroff. No trad gear
required. The start can be frustrating. Try
starting well R of the bolt and then traversing
back left fairly soon.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90
* All The Young Fascists 15m 24
6 bolts to loweroff. Finesse optional. 2nd bolt
can be tricky to get to if you are short..
Neil Gledhill Mar 07
*** Chips and Dips 20m 26
Uber classic sustained thin climbing up the
grey line. Technical, HARD and cranky all the
way to the loweroff. A Perth testpiece.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90
Batchain Puller 20m 25
Climb the strenuous overhanging groove to
second BR. Continue up groove past bolts to
loweroff. Recently rebolted – grade and quality
of the climb unconfirmed.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze Jun 90
TO
LLPSSW
CM
C
ATYF
CAD
BCP
Batchain Puller 20m 25
Climb the strenuous overhanging groove to
second BR. Continue up groove past bolts to
loweroff. Recently rebolted – grade and quality
of the climb unconfirmed.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze Jun 90
Bullseye 20m 25
Start 2m R of Batchain Puller, up bouldery
arete and up to loweroffs above Hammer and
Tongs. Not a bad route, but suffers from having
a no hands rest after each hard move.
Probably NOT soft for the grade.
Emil Mandyczewsky Apr 08
** Hammer & Tongs 25m 25
Start up R trending ramp L of Short Circuit then
up the flake on the L wall. Step left when things
get tricky to a balancy stance. Then up and
slightly R before a tricky traverse back left. A
great climb with an amazing variety of
memorable moves.
Derek Toulalan, Shane Richardson Jun 92
Short Circuit 27m 17X
Originally graded 15, this climb is a serious
lead with sharp rock, loose rock and sparse,
very poor pro. This is not to say that the climb
itself is bad (it is actually quite fun), just that it is
a good one to top-rope. Climbs the obvious
rightward trending spikey, loose looking line up
the main wall.
Harry Butler, Gary Matier Dec 89
Zombie Man 25m 31
Another youngster’s effort to leave his mark on
the Perth scene. Many of the holds have been
pulled down by abseiler’s feet.
Tim Deijkers Mar 05
Ersatz 25m 30
Many holds have broken off since the first
ascent and it is probably unclimbable. A credit
to Boyd’s talent.
Boyd MacNamara
BCP
B
HAT
SC
ZM
E
ME
TES
BBB
* Blah, Blah, Blah 18m, 16
5 bolts to DBB, the crux is at the 2nd bolt.
Ross Weiter, Danilo Zonta, Oct 07
* Twenty Easy Steps 20m 17
Pad up the smooth slab to stance at 5m and bolt. Up bast more bolts
and exciting shothole manoeuvre to loweroff.
Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03
* Mount Everest 18m, 16
Save much $$ and brag to your friends about doing the deed. 6 GIMBs
to loweroffs.
Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Jan 08
The Trumpeter 25m 11R Not on topo
Follow the R edge of the streaked slab passing to the L of a pinnacle.
Climb second small pinnacle and up cracks in wall above (crux). Up
grotty groove and R to finish at tree.
John Watson and others late 60s
Jericho Wall 25m 8R Not on topo
Start as for previous route. At 2m move R up steep broken rock to ledge,
then right up large flake and slabs to final crumbly arete, which is
followed to tree.
John Watson and others late 60s
MacGill’s Doom 25m 15R Not on topo
The corner/chimney R of Jericho Wall.
Gerry MacGill 67
The Grooves 25m 11R Not on topo
Start at the L edge of the main slab and follow grooves straight up, then
diagonally right.
FA Unknown.
Innominate 28m 16R Not on topo
Start 3m L of tree. Easy moves lead to extremely smooth slab. Choose
most direct line to skyline.
Michael Adams and others late 60s
Slalom 25m 4 Not on topo
There is an easy route at the broken R side of the central slab, suitable
for beginners and as a descent (with care) route.
Tramlines 25m 14 Not on topo
Start in middle of red slab forming the R part of the main slab. Straight up
red streak then into “the tramlines” and up to yellow corner at foot of R
wall. Straight up on the L and swing across the face to pull over.
Michael Adams, Brian Lever late 60s
Adler's Route 25m 16R Not on topo
The last climb of the slab area. Start at the junction of the red slab and
the wall. Climb 10m to
foot of corner, then up corner to a large perched block. Continue up
broken buttress to L of cave
then finish up L face of buttress on rotten rock.
* Striding Edge 25m 17R
It was a true test piece in its day but now compromised by the bolts on Strider.
This climb is still unprotected until a bolt on Strider is reached around the edge.
Start up the sharp grey arete R of the red slab of Tramlines. Onto the wall and
move R to the arete, then climb this to stance. Move R, up and across steep wall
to finish up crack. DBB at top.
Michael Adams, Tony Fowler early 70s
Strider 25m 18
A tricky start below the first BR, then directly up the arete with thin holds and
more BRs. Finish as for Striding Edge. Second bolt is badly placed, but can be
reached by piking out to the R.
T.Murray, B.Watson May 97
Striding Edge Direct 25m 17
A trad climb now spoilt by the bolts on the arete to L. Up short wall then climb L
trending flake to join Striding Edge. Ignore the gumby bolts and climb in the
original spirit.
Unknown early 70s
Shrapnel 25m 19
The bolted line between Striding Edge Direct and Gun Barrel Highway. Climb to
ledge at half height via the groove or blocky buttress, then straight up to L of
revolver shaped rock past 3 BRs. There is a huge and very dangerous loose
block down low, and up high the crux holds have broken off – NOT
RECOMMENDED.
T.Murray, B.Watson May 97
Gun Barrel Highway 25m 16R Not on topo
At base of small buttress beneath revolver shaped rock at 2/3 height. From L
corner of buttress trend R then onto slab above buttress to belay. Up crack then
R to corner at R edge of revolver. Up corner then mantle onto ledge (crux). Move
slightly R then finish L.
S
SED
SE
S
Plummeting Penguins 25m 16 Not on topo
Straight up the middle of the wall with 6 glued-in hex bolts. The first
half is easy - maybe grade 10 or 11. The crux is going straight up the
dark grey, metre wide slot, although many people seem to go left or
right, making it a 14 or so.
Phillip Calais, Maureen Boyle, Marianne Turner, Nov 06
Penguin Master 20m 16 Not on topo
Start about 3m to the right of ‘Plummeting Penguins’. Up the easy
section, then head right at the … third or fourth bolt… over the blocky
rubble section and up about 1 - 1.5 m to the left of ‘Carrot Master’.
Then either straight up and clip the last ‘Carrot Master’ bolt, or follow
the crack, whacking in a few cams or nuts along the way to the top.
Phillip Calais, Nostromo, Marianne Turner, Dec 06
Novice Penguins 25m 13 Not on topo
Start as for Penguin Master, but then left slightly up the groove at the
... third or fourth bolt. There are a total of 8 glued-in hex-head bolts.
Phillip Calais and Matthew Hobby, Feb 07
The Crap Game 30m 11 Not on topo
Start 7m L of the R edge of the steep friable wall. Up wall to where
arete joins main wall. Move up R to inclined shelf leading L. Move L
then continue straight up to finish.
Michael Adams, Claude Girardin 66
* Carrot Master 15m 18
The arete forming the left edge of the hanging V corner. 5BRs to
double BB. Good positions and nice climbing.
Jim Truscott, Matthew Rosser Sep 01
Quarry Man 15m 22
Start directly below the obvious hanging V-groove. A hard crank leads
to very delicate climbing up the groove and slab. Move L to exit
groove, then to top. 4BRs and a 1.5 Friend to DBB.
Matthew Rosser, Jim Truscott Sep 01
Tear Drop 25m 13
To the R of Quarry Man is a rubble-covered recessed area with a
1.5m dolerite dyke. This lies behind the best bouldering block in the
quarry. Here was Tear Drop, an ancient classic. The tear drop shaped
rock that gave the climb its name fell off many years ago. Climb
something else.
Gerry MacGill 67
Lifestyle Refugees 20m 14R
Left side of the pillar past a few spaced bolts. Rock is a bit loose so
this is a fairly serious route at the grade. Best finished by clambering
over to MG’s lower off.
Matthew Rogerson, A. McAllum, Jim Truscott 2 Sep 01
Centrepiece 20m 17X
The centre of the pillar, without deviation. An audacious lead on
friable edges and without any pro. Tired of living ?
P von Kanel, Michael Adams 72
*** Morning Glory 20m 17
Classic bolted arête climbing to the loweroff. Most step left at the last
bolt to easier terrain before going up to the loweroff. Staying strictly
on the arête above the last bolts earns you an extra grade or two and
some pucker factor.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90
CM
QM
C
TD
LR
MG
BP
KR
HC
Q
BNO
SG
MG
CP
*** Morning Glory 20m 17
Classic bolted arête climbing to the loweroff. Most step
left at the last bolt to easier terrain before going up to
the loweroff. Staying strictly on the arête above the last
bolts earns you an extra grade or two and some pucker
factor.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90
** Stolen Glory 15m 22
Requires some finesse, if you're clumsy it could be
easy 23. A good climb. Start between MG and BNO.
Up past 5 bolts to a lower off above the mini
arete/corner. There are 2 other bolts to the right of this
line below the first bolt of BNO. We did not place them
and we didn't write on the rock near the loweroff.
Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill Feb 07
Bonking Penguins 22 15 m
Joins the dots right of SG and trespasses all over BNO.
Start about 1 m to the right of SG and L of BNO. Up to
the bolt about 2 m to the right of the first SG bolt. Then
up and clip the ‘Bonk Night Out’ bolt. Then up again
clipping whatever bolts you like to the loweroff. Stay
right and out of the tiny corner that is SG. Contrived
even more so than most routes. Superfluous bolt exists
between SG first bolt and this route’s first bolt. i.e the
middle of three bolts roughly aligned horizontally.
Phillip Calais, Matthew Hobby, Feb 07
* Bonk Night Out 20m 23
Start 3m L of Hipster Crack. Climb to high BR on blank
wall (reachy clip). Continue L up overhanging bulge
(crux) to second BR and on to arete to finish up
Morning Glory. Best finished up SG these days. You
can also clip the first bolt of Bonking Penguins.
Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90
*** Kid Rock 14m 17
Starts just left of HC. Excellent balancy climbing up the
corner and a pumpy finish makes this a super route.
Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03
** Hipster Crack 20m 15
The prominent corner-crack R of Bonk Night Out. Nice
climbing to loweroff. FA unknown.
Quickie 11m 16
Climbs the face R of HC. Kind of hard if you are a
beginner.
Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03
Child’s Play 12m 14
R edge of wall with HC and Q. A bit of gear or two is
handy as you climb the cracked corner and arête to
belay on Q.
Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03
Trog 18m 11 Not on topo
Around the corner from Hipster Crack is a shallow
cave. Bridge the groove of the cave. Break out L to
short wall to join the dirt exit of Hipster Crack.
Michael Adams, John Watson & Co. early 70s
GYHOMB
TM
C
TS
PBW
PR
The Minidala (V8)
The slightly overhanging triangular buttress just R of Trog. Start at the bottom
right of the truiangle and jump to squeeze the slopey sides. Once you have
hold of the top pull around to the left to a standing position.
Logan Barber Apr 04
Get Your Hands Off My Bolts 10m 26
Up middle of wall around the corner R of Hipster Crack. Ascent faint crack on
not so obvious flake, past three FHs.
Anthony Bell, Andrew Corbe Feb 92
Cornflake 13m 16
The corner crack where the short blank wall on the L joins the dark grey side
of the buttress. Up the finger crack, into the groove, then finish R up the wall.
Michael Adams, Gerry MacGill late 60s
Plain Brown Wrapper 20m 16
The dark grey L side wall. Stick to the face and do not use any handholds on
the pale rock of the top edge. Start at the toe, face climbing leads to the R
corner of the overhang. Traverse across groove on good underclings to join
Cornflake.
Michael Adams, Bill Kershaw 90
Phantom Rib 20m 13
The earliest route in the quarry. Start at L end of Book Buttress at the arete.
Up arete for 4m then R onto wall and back L to avoid bulge (or directly over
bulge at 16). Take the L hand crack in the headwall to finish.
all and sundry mid 60s
* The Spine 25m 14
Start in the middle of the slab 2m R of PR. Straight through the overlaps.
Higher and slightly R a rock protrudes, this is The Spine – climb it. Exit up the
L crack. There are now 3BRs and a loweroff (out of sight). Bolts added by
ones who did not know. Grade 16 without the bolts.
Michael Adams, Tony Fowler late 60s
Preface 13m 16R Not on topo
10m to the R of The Spine, around the corner. 2m L of The Book is a very
thin crack in the corner. This crack is not much help as most of the moves are
on the wall ! At the top of the corner finish it L of The Book.
Joe Friend 74
The Book 25m 13R Not on topo
At the L end of a steep wall is a grey groove in an arete. Climb the groove for
13m then traverse L through slabs and up overhanging corner to finish.
Gerry MacGill and others late 60s
Flyleaf 13m 14 Not on topo
Climb the iron stain 2m R of The Book then follow shallow stained grooves to
the top.
Gerry MacGill and others late 60s
Kay 14m 9 Not on topo
Start on big jug 2m R of Flyleaf. Move up slabby groove to roof, lay back on L
edge of roof. Traverse L to big jug and follow finger crack to top. Needs #0
RP for crux.
unknown dinosaur early 60s
Flaked Off 6m 18 Not on topo
Start on the R side of south face of middle boulder at the top of the quarry. Up
shallow groove and small flakes. Bolt belay on top.
Shane Richardson (solo) Dec 90