are you ready for some

ARE YOU READY
FOR SOME
FUTEBOL?
EDITH HELD/CORBIS
A definitive insider’s guide to the host cities of the
2014 FIFA WORLD CUP BRAZIL
from june 12 to july 13, the fifa world cup
is finally returning to soccer’s most sacred
ground: Brazil (according to Brazilians, anyway). Not since 1950 has the South American
giant hosted the world’s most popular soccer
tournament, and an ambitious 12 host cities
spread across nearly 1,250 miles as the crow
flies — from the Amazonian capital of Manaus
to Porto Alegre in the deep Brazilian South —
have been chosen to host the party. It’s a lot of
ground to cover, but here’s to making the best
of Brazil in this summer of soccer.
By Kevin Raub
A A .COM/AMERICANWAY
JUNE 2014
73
T H E DETA I L S
BRASÍLIA
Brazil’s futuristic capital was sculpted
out of nowhere in the heart of Brazil’s
interior in the 1950s by then-President Jucelino Kubitschek, architect Oscar Niemeyer, urban planner Lucio Costa and landscape
architect Burle Marx.
Mangai SCE Sul, Next to JK Bridge
011-55-61-3224-3079
www.mangai.com.br
Choperia Maracanã CLN 207 - Bloco A - Loja 4
011-55-61-4040-4363
www.choperiamaracana.com.br
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES: Mangai is an excellent por kilo (pay-byweight restaurant) that features scrumptious regional cuisine, with a focus on
Northeastern dishes like baião-de-dois (a kitchen-sink mix of rice, beans,
sun-dried beef and herbs and spices). Choperia Maracanã, named after Brazil’s
most famous futebol stadium, is all about futebol and samba. Expect long lines
to get in during World Cup matches.
Feira de Artesanato da Torre (Tower Fair)
Eixo Monumental Norte/Sul
011-55-61-3257-2866
www.feiradatorredf.com.br
Estádio Nacional de Brasília
Mané Garrincha SDN - Estádio Nacional Mané
Garrincha - Asa Norte
011-55-61-3313-5902
www.estadionacionaldebrasilia
.com.br
WHERE TO SHOP: The Feira de Artesanato da Torre (Tower Fair) , next to
Brasília’s TV Tower, is a great handicrafts fair open from Thursday to Sunday,
8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The newly renovated Estádio Nacional de Brasília
Mané Garrincha (National Stadium of Brasília Mane Garrincha) is an easy
20-minute walk northwest from Brasília’s hotel sectors.
MANAUS
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Banzeiro, famous for chef Felipe
Schaedler’s award-winning ribs of
tambaqui (a tasty river fish), is the
city’s gastro must, but don’t skip
Choupana, where you can try tasty
tacacá, a soup made from jambu (a
mouth-numbing indigenous herb),
tucupi (a manioc broth) and dried
shrimp. Air conditioning will be a
concern here, so head straight to
Touchdown for game watching,
where at least 15 TV screens will be
tuned in to the World Cup in a pleasant, climate-controlled environment.
WHERE TO SHOP:
Galeria Amazônica is a fantastic spot
to pick up genuine, high-quality
Amazonian artisan fare, including
pottery, basketwork and folk art.
T H E DETA I L S
Banzeiro
Rua Libertador, 102 - Nossa Senhora
das Graças
011-55-92-3234-1621
www.restaurantebanzeiro.com.br
Choupana
Av. Mario Ypiranga, Adrianópolis
011-55-92-3635-3878
www.choupanarestaurante.com.br
Touchdown
Av. Rio Branco, 285 - Conj. Vieiralves
011-55-92-3304-5363
Galeria Amazônica
Rua Costa Azevedo, 272 - Centro
011-55-92-3233-4521
www.galeriamazonica.org.br
Arena da Amazônia
Av. Djalma Batista, 3637 - Flores
011-55-92-3194-1600
www.arenadaamazonia.com.br
TO/FROM THE STADIUM:
The new 44,500-capacity Arena da
Amazônia is 3.5 miles or so north
of the historic city center and the
banks of the Rio Negro. Take a taxi.
DECKY, IN THE TOURISTFRIENDLY BEACH
NEIGHBORHOOD OF
PONTA NEGRA, IS THE
SPOT TO WATCH
WORLD CUP MATCHES.
NATAL
A wind-swept seaside oasis of calm as
far as big Brazilian cities go, Natal is
surrounded by large expanses of towering sand dunes and caters
more than anything to packaged family tourism. It’s not notably
sexy, but the sun is shining and the beach is beautiful.
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Camarões Potiguar is one of Natal’s
most popular restaurants, and shrimp
lovers might mistake it for heaven,
since the menu leans heavily on
the coast’s delectable crustaceans.
Decky, in the tourist-friendly beach
neighborhood of Ponta Negra, is the
spot to watch World Cup matches —
and it offers sea views to boot. The
massive outdoor patio is guaranteed
to be shimmering and shaking like a
samba band in a cyclone during the
World Cup matches.
WHERE TO SHOP: The Artesanato
Vilarte in Ponta Negra is a minimall
featuring more than 50 shops
dedicated to the wares of regional
artisans.
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TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The new
42,000-seat Arena das Dunas sits
halfway between the city center and
Ponta Negra. City buses 31, 39 and 41
will deposit you nearest the stadium.
T H E DETA I L S
Camarões Potiguar Rua Pedro Fonseca Filho,
8887 - Ponta negra
011-55-84-3209-2425
www.camaroes.com.br
Decky
Av. Engenheiro Roberto Freire, 9100 Ponta Negra
011-55-84-3219-2471
Artesanato Vilarte Av Engenheiro Roberto Freire, 2107 Ponta Negra
011-55-84-2010-0336
Arena das Dunas Av. Prudente de Morais,
5121 - Lagoa Nova
www.arenadunas.com.br
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: VANESSA CARVALHO/BRAZIL PHOTO PRESS/LATINCONTENT/GETTY IMAGES;
EVARISTO SA/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; PAULO FRIDMAN/CORBIS; MARIO TAMA/GETTY IMAGES
Sweltering Manaus is planted at the
confluence of the massive Negro and
Solimões rivers, smack-dab in the middle of the largest tropical
rain forest on Earth. A former rubber boomtown, it’s now the
main launching point for trips deeper into the Amazon jungle.
GET YOUR
BRAZILIAN
BEARINGS
MANAUS
FORTALEZA
NATAL
RECIFE
BELO HORIZONTE
Known locally as Beagá (pronounced
‘bay-ah-gah,’ Portuguese for its initials
of BH), Belo Horizonte is Brazil’s third-largest city and the modern
state capital of Minas Gerais, a region known for its extrahospitable people and hearty regional fare. It’s also a jumping-off
point for some of Brazil’s most dazzling colonial towns, including
Ouro Preto and Tiradentes.
SALVADOR
CUIABÁ
BRASÍLIA
BELO HORIZONTE
RIO DE JANEIRO
SÃO PAULO
CURITIBA
PORTO ALEGRE
TOP TO BOTTOM: PIERRE MERIMEE/
CORBIS; INGOLF POMPE 25/ALAMY
Brazil is the world’s fifth-largest
country, smaller than the USA
(No. 3) but bigger than Australia
(No. 6). The Federative Republic of
Brazil — its official name in English
— is made up of 26 states and one
federal district. Of these, just under
half are hosting World Cup matches
across 12 cities, all of which are the
capitals of their respective states.
For orientation purposes, each city’s
Centro district is its downtown (i.e.,
the city center), and in most cases
it’s where the majority of lodgings,
restaurants and World Cup action
will be — other than at the stadiums
themselves, which often sit outside
Centro in less cramped neighborhoods. Praça is the Portuguese word
for “plaza” (a town square), so you’ll
see it frequently. And, if you get
lost, Brazilians will always be helpful
— sometimes too helpful (they will
often point you one way or another
when they actually have no idea
either). But uttering the occasional
bom dia/boa tarde/boa noite (good
morning/afternoon/evening) and
obrigado (thank you) will go a long
way to show you’re not just there to
drain the host cities of their caipirinhas on your way to the matches.
What’s a caipirinha? If you have to
ask this, then you’re in for a treat.
Brazil’s ubiquitous national cocktail
is made with cachaça (liquor distilled
from sugarcane), limes and sugar
and is inescapable. Saúde!
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
To sample the robust local cuisine for
which Minas is famous, head straight
to Xapuri , where chef Doña
Nelsa’s Mineira staples — frango com
quiabo (chicken with okra), carne na
panela (stewed beef), tutu a Mineira
(mashed black beans with onions,
garlic and seasonings) — are seen as
national treasures. For bar-hopping
during games, look no farther than
the neighborhood of Savassi, where
the extraordinary concentration of
botecos (restaurant-bar hybrids of
Portuguese origins) helped earn the
city its nickname, Cidade dos Bares
(City of Bars).
WHERE TO SHOP: Centro de
Artesanato Mineiro (Craft Center of
Minas Gerais, or CEART) has the city’s
best selection of regional handicrafts.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The completely renovated Minas Arena (nicknamed Mineirão) is about 5.5 miles
north of Centro in the residential area
of Pampulha. Bus 64 (Estacão Venda
Nova) from Ave Bias Fortes 1536 in
central BH is your best bet from
Centro, but a taxi is probably easiest.
T H E DETA I L S
Xapuri
Rua Mandacarú, 260 - Pampulha
011-55-31-3496-6198
www.restaurantexapuri.com.br
Centro de Artesanato Mineiro
Av. Afonso Pena, 1537 - Centro
011-55-31-3272-9513
http://www.belohorizonte.mg.gov
.br/local/comercio/artesanato/
centro-de-artesanato-mineiro
Minas Arena
Av. Antônio Abrahão Caram,
1001 - Pampulha
011-55-31-3499-4300
www.minasarena.com.br
In addition to the traditional futebol bars we have recommended
around Brazil, look out for each city’s Fan Fest — large, outdoor
spaces dedicated to colorful World Cup festivities and showing games on massive projection screens. Though Recife has
announced it will not host one — much to FIFA’s dismay — most
cities will be throwing quite a party.
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RIO DE JANEIRO
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Aprazível in Santa Teresa is a
longtime favorite for Brazilian cuisine
and wow-inspiring views. Aconchego
Carioca is an outstanding boteco for
excellent Brazilian cuisine and local
microbrews. For foodies, Roberta
Sudbrack and Oro are the two hottest tables in town. For World Cup
matches, head to Caneco 70, a recently reopened Rio classic named as
a homage to Brazil’s 1970 World Cup
trophy. Mud Bug Sports Bar, with two
Copacabana locations, is also always
packed for soccer matches.
WHERE TO SHOP: Leblon’s Maria
Oititica fashions lovely handmade
jewelry from native Amazonian materials. La Vereda Artes e Semelhontes
in Santa Teresa specializes in
exquisite handicrafts from all over
Brazil. And the Hippie Fair , also in
Ipanema, is a must for local wares,
souvenirs and artwork every Sunday
from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The newly
renovated Estádio do Maracanã is
Brazil’s futebol mecca, a hallowed
sports ground where any result other
than a Brazilian championship in the
World Cup final will be more devastating than the black plague. Metro
station Maracanã drops you right at
its doorstep.
T H E DETA I L S
Aprazível Rua Aprazível, 62 - Santa Teresa
011-55-21-2508-9174
www.aprazivel.com.br Aconchego Carioca Rua Barão de Iguatemi,
379 - Praca da Bandeira
011-55-21-2273-1035
www.facebook.com/aconchego
.carioca
Roberta Sudbrack Av. Lineu de Paula Machado,
916 - Jardim Botânico
011-55-21-3874-0139
www.robertasudbrack.com.br
Oro Rua Frei Leandro, 20 - Jardim Botânico
011-55-21-7864-9622
www.ororestaurante.com Caneco 70 Rua Rainha Guilhermina, 48 - Leblon
011-55-21-2294-2913
www.facebook.com/BarCaneco70
Mud Bug Sports Bar Rua Rodolfo Dantas, 16 - Copacabana
011-55-21-2543-5052
www.mudbug.com.br
Maria Oititica Shopping Leblon, Av. Afrânio de Melo
Franco, 290 loja 112b - Leblon
011- 55-21-2275-4197
http://loja.mariaoiticica.com.br
La Vereda Artes e Semelhontes Rua Almirante Alexandrino,
428 - Santa Teresa
011-55-21-2507-0317
www.lavereda.art.br Hippie Fair Praça General Osório, Ipanema
www.feirarteipanema.com
Estádio do Maracanã Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo, Maracanã
011-55-21-8871-3950
www.suderj.rj.gov.br/maracana.asp
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PORTO ALEGRE
Brazil’s southernmost capital is a
bustling port city on the banks of the
freshwater Lagoa dos Patos. This is gaúcho (cowboy) country,
where Brazilians speak differently, imbibe far better beers, prefer
chimarrão (maté tea) over espresso and take their barbecue very,
very seriously.
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Atelier de Massas is a Porto Alegre
institution that serves up delectable
fresh pastas in an old-school Italian
setting. Chalé da Praça XV, an 1855
Victorian-style chalet and beer
garden sitting right in the heart of
Centro, has been slinging suds since
1911. Also in the area is Brechó do
Futebol, part football shop, part
tiny-but-extreme football bar.
WHERE TO SHOP: Porto Alegre’s
bustling Mercado Público is the
city’s downtown focal point and a
great urban market to pick up local
souvenirs — and anything else you
might need.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The newly
revamped Estádio Beira-Rio rises
from the riverbank of the Guaiba
River, 2.5 miles south of Centro. It’s
reachable by 25 different bus lines.
T H E DETA I L S
Atelier de Massas
Rua Riachuelo, 1482 - Centro
011-55-51-3325-8888
www.atelierdemassas.com.br
Chalé da Praça XV Praça 15 Novembro, s/n - Centro
011-55-51-3225-2667
www.chaledapracaxv.com.br
Brechó do Futebol Rua Coronel Fernando Machado,
1188 - Centro
011-55-51-3737-3782
www.brechodofutebol.com
Mercado Público Av. Júlio de Castilhos, Centro
011-55-51-3289-4801
www.mercadopublico.com.br
Estádio Beira-Rio Av. Padre Cacique, 891 - Praia de Belas
011-55-51-3230-4600
www.internacional.com.br/
giganteparasempre
ATELIER DE MASSAS
IS A PORTO ALEGRE
INSTITUTION THAT SERVES
UP DELECTABLE FRESH
PASTAS IN AN OLD-SCHOOL
ITALIAN SETTING.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DANIELLA DUARTE; RODILON TEIXEIRA/DEMOTIX/CORBIS;
CRO MAGNON/ALAMY; STEVE OUTRAM/ALAMY; LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES
Rio de Janeiro is Brazil’s cinematic
superstar — a trifecta of sun, sand and
samba synonymous with paradise the world over. It’s home to
a hedonistic population that enjoys the good life bookended
by world-class urban beaches and dramatic rain forest-draped
mountaintops.
FORTALEZA
T H E DETA I L S
This beachside metropolis in the Northeastern state of Ceará boasts a beautiful
21-mile coastline and a population of 3.7 million that includes
retirees, surfers and beach bums alike.
Colher de Pau Rua Ana Bilhar, 1178 - Varjota
011-55-85-3267-6680
www.colherdepaufortaleza.com.br
Crocobeach Av. Zeze Diogo, 3125 - Praia do Futuro
011-55-85-3521-9600
www.crocobeach.com.br
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES: Colher de Pau is the city’s best for tasty
regional Northeastern cuisine with distinct seafood leanings. Fortaleza’s famous
megabarracas — massive beach bars — are legendary throughout Brazil.
Crocobeach is the most well known of the bunch, so expect massive game
parties. For something less sandy, Boteco Praia is sure to be a wild spot during
important games.
Boteco Praia
Av. Beira Mar, 1680 - Meireles
011-55-85-3248-4773 www.botecofortaleza.com.br
WHERE TO SHOP: Pick up regional handicrafts like delicate lace (a tradition
brought over from Portugal), ceramics and carnauba palm fronds at CEART,
inside the city’s finest cultural center, Centro Dragão do Mar .
Centro Dragão do Mar Rua Dragão do Mar, 81 - Praia de Iracema
011-55-85-3488-8600
www.dragaodomar.org.br
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The 67,000-capacity Arena Castelão is about
seven miles inland from the beach. On the city’s new subway, MetroFor, catch
the red Sul line to Parangaba station; from there, they might have dedicated
buses to the stadium. If not, grab a taxi for the last five miles.
Arena Castelão Av. Alberto Craveiro, 2901 - Castelão
011-55-85-3304-4501
www.arenacastelao.com
Unlike most big Brazilian cities, Curitiba
concedes to form and function: The
capital of Paraná state has been held as a world reference in urban planning since the 1970s, when forward-thinking Mayor Jaime
Lerner streamlined public transport, pedestrianized the downtown area (under cover of darkness) and encouraged sustainable
design and urban parks decades before the rest of us.
CURITIBA
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: STRINGER/BRAZIL/REUTERS/CORBIS; COURTESY ARENA CASTELÃO;
DENIS FERREIRA NETTO/AP/CORBIS; DIRCINHA S. WELTER/GETTY IMAGES
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Manu is the showcase kitchen for
one of Brazil’s hottest young chefs,
Manoella Buffara. With stints at
Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, and
Alinea in Chicago under her apron,
Buffara gives traditional Brazilian cuisine a modern kick. Folha
Seca, named after the nickname of
beloved Didi (from Brazil’s 1958 and
1962 World Cup winning teams), is
a powerhouse football bar just two
blocks from the stadium.
WHERE TO SHOP: Curitiba’s beautiful
and historic Largo da Ordem hosts
the massive Feira do Largo da Ordem
every Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
and is a must for wares that include
everything from paintings to jewelry
to local decorative arts.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The newly
renovated Arena da Baixada is
just south of downtown and an easy
1.5-mile walk from Praça Tiradentes
landmark in Centro.
NEAR-FROZEN CHOPE
(DRAFT BEER) SERVED
IN SIGNATURE ICED
TANKARDS ARE THE
CALLING AT CHOPPÃO.
T H E DETA I L S
Manu Al. Dom Pedro II, 317 - Batel
011-55-41-3044-4395
www.restaurantemanu.com.br
Folha Seca Rua Petit Carneiro,
394 - Água Verde
011-55-41-3343-5632
Feira do Largo da Ordem
(Largo da Ordem Fair)
Rua Kellers, 160 - São Francisco
www.feiralargodaordem.com.br
Arena da Baixada
Rua Bueno Aires,
1260 - Água Verde
011-55-41-2105-5616
www.arenacap.com.br
CUIABÁ
The capital of Mato Grosso state is the
northern gateway to the Pantanal, the
largest freshwater swamp on the planet and one of Brazil’s most
special places to visit. The smallest of the World Cup host cities,
it’s a hot and humid urban-cowboy town with a frontier feel.
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Peixaria Popular is a perennial
favorite for regional Pantaneiro
river fish like dourado and pacu.
Regionalíssimo, in the Museu do Rio,
hosts a fantastic buffet of regional
dishes like mujica (catfish in yuca
sauce) and carne seca com abóbora
(dried beef with pumpkin). Nearfrozen chope (draft beer) served in
signature iced tankards are the calling
at Choppão, a Cuiabá institution and
a guaranteed World Cup hot spot.
WHERE TO SHOP: The SESC Casa do
Artesão (Craftsman House) features
seven themed rooms of Pantaneiro
handicrafts and regional spirits like
pequi fruit crème liquors.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: Cuiabá’s
new multiuse Arena Pantanal
(nicknamed “O Verdão,” or “The Big
Green”), two miles west of Centro, is
A A .COM/AMERICANWAY
the most sustainable of Brazil’s new
stadiums. It’s best reached on foot
or by taxi.
T H E DETA I L S
Peixaria Popular
Av. São Sebastião, 2324 - Popular
011-55-65-3322-5471
Regionalíssimo/Museu do Rio Av. Manoel José de Arruda, Museu do Rio
011-55-65-3623-6881
Choppão
Praça 8 de Abril, 44 - Goiabeiras
011-55-65-3623-5005
www.choppao.com.br
SESC Casa do Artesão Rua 13 de Junho, 315 - Centro Norte
011-55-65-3611-0500 www.sescmatogrosso.com.br/
casa-do-artesao
Arena Pantanal
Av. Agricola de Barros - Cidade Alta
011-55-65-3637-7642
www.cuiaba2014.mt.gov.br
JUNE 2014
77
RECIFE
Unpolished yet flush with a bygone air
of colonial refinement, gritty Recife is
the Northeast’s cradle of culture and the capital of Pernambuco
state. It retains a fascinating historical center (Recife Antigo) and
an affluent pedigree in music and arts, though most folks linger in
the nearby colonial town of Olinda .
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Parraxaxá is a fabulous por kilo
offering a cornucopia of regional
Northeast cuisine, but consider
Camarada as well, where Pernambuco’s coastal shrimp is showcased
in a dizzying array of dishes. Both are
in the upscale seaside neighborhood
of Boa Viagem. To watch among the
masses, head to Portal do Derby —
its expansive outdoor patio is one of
the city’s best for watching soccer.
For something cozier, Underground
sport bar is your spot.
WHERE TO SHOP: Recife’s Casa da
Cultura, housed in a former colonialera prison, is like shopping for
regional wares in a museum.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: Of the World
Cup venues, the new 46,000-capacity
Arena Pernambuco is the farthest
stadium from points of interest, some
12 miles from the city center in the
western suburb of São Lourenço da
Mata. Metro station Cosme e Damião is
just 1.5 miles from the stadium.
T H E DETA I L S
Parraxaxá Av. Fernando Simões Barbosa,
1200 - Boa Viagem
011-55-81-3463-7874
www.parraxaxa.com.br
Camarada Rua Baltazar Pereira 130,
1º Jardim - Boa Viagem
011-55-81-3325-1786
www.ocamarada.com.br Portal do Derby Rua Clemente Pereira, s/n - Derby
011-55-81-3421-4848
www.portaldoderby.rec.br
Underground Av. Boa Viagem, 618 - Boa Viagem
011-55-81-3204-7743
www.facebook.com/
undergroundsportbar
Casa da Cultura Rua Floriano Peixoto, s/n - Santo Antonio
011-55-81-3224-0557
www.casadaculturape.com.br
Arena Pernambuco Av. Deus é Fiel, 01 loja A - Jardin Penedo,
São Lourenço da Mata - PE
011-55-81-3319-1919
www.itaipavaarenapernambuco
.com.br
SÃO PAULO
SALVADOR
OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM: PETER ADAMS PHOTOGRAPHY LTD./ALAMY; MARCELO NACINOVIC.
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CITY IMAGE/ALAMY; SERGIO COIMBRA; COURTESY MANĺ; STEFANO PATERNA/ALAMY
Brazil’s most culturally rich host, Salvador (in the state of Bahia) was once
the magnificent capital of Portugal’s great New World colony.
Today, it oozes history and Afro-Brazilian culture, especially in
the historic UNESCO World Heritage-designated neighborhood
of Pelourinho , where you’ll find cobblestone streets, 17th- and
18th-century architecture and churches paved with gold.
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
Bahia’s most famous street food,
acarajé (black-eyed pea fritters
stuffed with vatapá — a creamy
paste of shrimp, peanuts, coconut milk and dendê oil), should
not be missed at Casa Da Dinha.
Indulge in Brazil’s best regional
dish — moqueca (seafood stew) —
at modest Donana. For World Cup
matches, Pelourinho is sure to be the
center of the action, but you can also
head to Fayola Bar in the nightlife
bairro of Rio Vermelho, three miles
south, for a little breathing room.
WHERE TO SHOP: The most interesting spot to hunt for local handicrafts
is the Mercado Modelo , a twostory market in a historic building that
once held slaves.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The
55,000-seat Arena Fonte Nova
is a 15- to 20-minute walk from
Pelourinho.
T H E DETA I L S
Casa Da Dinha Rua João Gomes, 25 - Largo de Santana,
Rio Vermelho
011-55-71-3334-4350
Donana Av. Teixeira Barros - Centro Comercial
Conj dos Comerciários - Brotas
011-55-71-3351-8216
www.donanarestaurante.com.br The Southern Hemisphere’s largest city
in the state of the same name is the
beating heart of Brazil, a monster economy-driving megalopolis
of 21 million people, 12,500 restaurants, 15,000 bars — you get
the picture. Sampa (as it’s known to the locals) is an absolute
concrete jungle of culture and craziness.
WHERE TO EAT & WATCH GAMES:
You’ll find 52 types of cuisine here, but
we’ll stick with the best homegrown
offerings: Brasil a Gosto and Tordesilhas, both in Jardins, are memorable
midrange choices. Foodies flock to
Maní in Pinheiros and D.O.M. ,
also in Jardins, for the best of cuttingedge Brazilian cuisine. And it’s worth
a trip to the suburbs for darling chef
Rodrigo Oliveira’s regional Northeastern at Mocotó. São Cristóvão in Vila
Madalena is football headquarters
in the heart of Sampa’s most vibrant
nightlife district. Pubs like All Black
Irish Pub and Blue Pub will also be
rowdy on match days.
WHERE TO SHOP: Casa da Vila in Vila
Mariana is a real charmer for sustainable, Fair Trade Brazilian handicrafts,
representing artisans from every
state of Brazil.
TO/FROM THE STADIUM: The
new Arena de São Paulo (Arena
Corinthians) is known on the street
as “Itaquerão,” and it hugs the end
of the metro red line 11 or so miles
east of Centro in Itaquera. It will host
the opening match of the World Cup,
Brazil vs. Croatia, on June 12.
T H E DETA I L S
Brasil a Gosto Rua Professor Azevedo
Amaral, 70 - Jardins
011-55-11-3086-3565
www.brasilagosto.com.br
Tordesilhas Al. Tietê, 489 - Jardins
011-55-11-3107-7444
www.tordesilhas.com Maní Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210 - Jardim
Paulistano
011-55-11-3085-4148
www.manimanioca.com.br D.O.M. Rua Barâo de Capanema, 549 - Jardins
011-55-11-3088-0761
www.domrestaurante.com.br
Fayola Bar Rua Alexandre de Gusmão,
116 - Rio Vermelho
011-55-71-3018-1313
facebook.com/fayolabarerestaurante
Mocotó Av Nossa Senhora do Loreto, 1100 Vila Medeiros
011-55-11-2951-3056
www.mocoto.com.br
Mercado Modelo
Praça Visconde de Cayru,
250 - Comercio
011-55-71-4102-9414
www.mercadomodelobahia.com.br
São Cristóvão Rua Aspicuelta 533, Vila Madalena
011-55-11-3097-9904 All Black Irish Pub
Rua Oscar Freire, 163 - Jardins
011-55-11-3088-7990
www.allblack.com.br
Arena Fonte Nova Ladeira da Fonte das Pedras, s/n - Nazaré
011-55-71-3320-2102
www.itaipavaarenafontenova
.com.br
FOR WORLD CUP
MATCHES, PELOURINHO
IS SURE TO BE THE
CENTER OF THE ACTION.
Blue Pub
Al. Ribeirão Preto, 384 - Bela Vista
011-55-11-3284 8338
www.thebluepub.com.br
Casa da Vila Rua Capitão Cavalcanti, 82 - Vila Mariana
011-55-11-5575-2757
www.casadavila.com.br
Arena de São Paulo (Arena Corinthians)
Av Miguel Inácio Curi,
111 - Vila Carmosina
www.arenacorinthians.com.br
KEVIN RAUB is a São Paulo-based travel and entertainment journalist. His work has
appeared in Travel+Leisure, Condé Nast Traveller, Robb Report, New York Times T Magazine
and Lonely Planet, among other publications.
A A .COM/AMERICANWAY
JUNE 2014
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