1 Report for IBGM Gay Penfold - Jewellery Industry Innovation

Report for IBGM
Gay Penfold - Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre, School of Jewellery, Birmingham City
University - August 7th to 19th 2014
Overall content and aim of visit – Brief received from IBGM.
1. Visit industries and Jewellery Schools in São Paulo, São José do Rio Preto, Guaporé and Rio de
Janeiro (3 different States within Brazil).
Whilst there, to evaluate the use of technology and how up-to-date these industries/schools are in
comparison to the latest training demands or technology available.
2. While some companies may be using latest machinery, we strongly believe Brazil lacks adequate
training to operate new technology. That is the second aspect we would like your input as well.
We plan on arranging meeting with SENAI which is responsible to promote Industrial Training in the
States of Brazil, including those for the Jewellery Sector.
After your initial evaluation of Brazil’s potential and shortcomings, we would like to possibly develop
a training programme between SENAI and your Institute.
3. In São Paulo, you will have the chance to visit our FENINJER Jewellery Show. There, we would
like for you to be a guest speaker.
Your presentation would be for a select group of jewellery manufacturers as to the
recent technologies of the industry. Discuss the use of 3D technology and its impact on our sector.
(Manufacturing and distribution channel)
4. In Rio de Janeiro, you will also present at a workshop to a broader group of
industry professionals and manufacturers. Since Rio de Janeiro will be the last on the agenda, we
thought would be a good idea to provide an overview of your visits and your overall evaluation of
our industry and the potential for further development.
Friday (08/07)
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Arrived at 9.30am and after travel recovery time visited Feninjer jewellery show.
Saturday (09/07)
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Lecture in Feninjer
Visit Feninjer
Review of Feninjer
Annual Brazilian Jewellery Trade fair held within the TransAmerica Hotel. My impressions were
of a well organised and traditionally laid out (comparable to other global jewellery trade fairs)
trade show/exhibition of Brazilian company products. Exhibitors were fashion and precious
jewellery companies and a few jewellery service companies.(refining and RP/CAD services Getstones). There was little variation in designs/product offer and whist some products were
“high end” the majority were aimed at the middle market.
Both fine and fashion jewellery product offers generally included a religious and a child/infant
centred product range as well as each companys women’s jewellery ranges. There was little or
no male jewellery and whilst product quality ranged from high/luxury market to fashion jewellery,
apart from a few design led items, styles were similar amongst companies. Companies I
met/had discussions with:-
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Vianna – Carla Antunes and Donato. This company is the largest exporter in Brazil and their
product is high end luxury fine jewellery which utilises very high quality gem stones.They have
their own stone cutting and design team. My conversation with Donato was around design and
3D metal printing and laser scanning.
Greg Furman – The Luxury marketing council -Presentation at Feninjer on 9th August overview of how the luxury market has changed from the mid 1990’s and the rise of the new
luxury consumer who is more and more critical of brands, is searching from a more intimate,
warmer and more personalised experience. 90% of the world’s wealthiest are now self made
and only 10% of the worlds wealthiest inherited their money. He stressed the importance of
collaboration and partnerships, web site customisation, that the worlds rich are early adopters of
technology, and the importance of luxury brands listening to their customers.
3M – Francisco Laterza Neto – Refiners – interested in micro setting technology/equipment.
Carla Bruner – has manufacturing facility in Brazil but lives in London – discussion with her
about her experince of exhibiting at International Jewellery London (IJL) which was not good
due to type of visitor that the organisers gave access to. Her experience with the organisers was
not good either – I will report back to them regarding this.
Genesis –Jose Fernando Brunca – discussion around the importance of 3D CAD.
Get Stones
Rua Haddock Lobo,1307 Conj.12, Jardins, Sao Paulo SP – CEP 01414-003
www.getstones.com.br
This company offer a range of technical services to the jewellery industry including 3D
modelling, prototyping, silicon mould making, stone cutting/lapidary, casting, polishing, laser
soldering/welding, laser cutting, stone setting and plating.
As the UK model tends to be one of outsourcing by companies to specialist suppliers (e.g.
precious metal purchase, casting, reclaimation/refining etc.) I was interested to see this
company adopting the same service model within Brazil.
Alexandre provided me with an overview of a questionaire circulated to the exhibitors at the
Feninjer show;Geographic location
Sao Paulo
Minas Gerais
Rio de Janeiro
Rio Grade de Sol
Total
Number from this region
26
6
5
5
42 exhibitors/companies
%
62%
14%
12%
12%
What kind of Jewellery
products?
Precious Jewellery
Precious and Plated
Jewellery
Plated and fashion jewellery
Gems
Total
Number of companies
%
39
1
93%
2%
1
1
42
2%
2%
2
Which processes used?
How many companies use
?
38
29
18
17
%
16
12
9
38%
29%
21%
%
Yes
No
How many companies use
?
35
7
If 3D modelling used –
which software?
Rhinoceros
Gemvision Matrix
Artcam
Rhinogold
3D Max
Other
Jewelcad
Solidworks
How many companies use
?
25
15
7
4
2
2
0
0
%
How difficult is it for you to
find specialist/skilled
employees?
Very Difficult
Not difficult
Quite difficult
Number of companies
%
25
9
8
60%
21%
19%
How difficult is it for you to
get technical assistance for
machine processes?
Very Difficult
Not difficult
Quite difficult
Number of companies
%
17
14
11
40%
33%
26%
How difficult is it for you to
get maintenence of
equipment and processes?
Very Difficult
Not difficult
Quite difficult
Number of companies
%
11
16
15
26%
38%
36%
Lost Wax casting
Laser welding
3D/RP
Micro setting (stone setting in
wax?)
Stamping
Laser cutting
Laser marking
Do you use 3D modelling?
3
90%
69%
43%
40%
83%
17%
60%
36%
17%
10%
5%
5%
0%
0%
Sunday (10/07)
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Travel to São José do Rio Preto – São Paulo
Monday (11/07)
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Visit 3 industries (Costantini – www.costantini.com.br / Gênesis Joias –
www.genesisjoias.com.br / Martinelli)
Visit Senai
Dinner with producers
Costantini – www.costantini.com.br
Overview
Met with Paulo Barbim and Jose Pascoal Costantini. 20 people, + 4 apprentices at present (from
Senai who are with the company for 1 year). (Includes 2 designers and 2 CAD designers.) 20,000
hoop earrings manufactured per year. 2 good engineers – good tool making capacity. Rhodium pen
plating/brightening processes.
Use of technology
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3D Cad
Lost wax casting( whole process) use cold cure moulds -2 X furnaces ( 1 unused) 2 X wax
injectors, 2 vacuum, 1 centrifugal and 1 Indutherm M60
Laser welding
Tool making /stamping
Hoop earring manufacture equipment
Chain making machines X 5
Lathes/small presses/rolling mills etc.
Spark erosion
Latest/up to date technology?
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Gemvision Matrix 3D CAD software
Envisiontec RP machine
Setsam laser welder (3 laser welders in total)
Sisma – laser cutting and engraving
MC60 Indutherm
casting machine
1 X CNC machine
Mechanical polishing
Training required/needs? Mid to higher level training is lacking.
Technology/production Issues?
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Guidance on investment quantities/processes for gypsum mixing and flask filling
(standardisation)
Overall standardisation of processes and related procedures
Process for brightening which is an alternative to Cyanide (Cyanide use banned by
government?)
Only one dealer for Envisiontec in Brazil – problems getting spares and high cost.
Interested in micro setting
Small Italian finishing burrs – difficult to obtain in Brazil
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Gênesis Joias – www.genesisjoias.com.br
Overview
Met with Jose Fernanda Brunca. 4 CAD designers, 1 designer +1 computer programmer and an
HR/Accounts person. Company are located in a very dated and unsuitable building – they will move
to the new Jewellery city development.
Use of technology
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3D Cad ( Matrix/Artcam/Z Brush)
Lost wax casting(whole process including Yasui wax injectors, 2 Indutherm vacuum ( 1 old 1
new)
Laser cutting, marking
2 Laser welders
Stone cutting /lapidary
Hand silver model making
Latest/up to date technology?
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3D CAD software x 3 - Matrix, Archicam, (ArtCAM?) Z Brush
Good CAD competence.
Stone in place casting
Training required/needs?
Technology/production Issues?
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Good quality product despite poor environment.
Sound understanding of relevant technology.
Premises are not conducive to production time efficiency.
Martinelli
Overview - met with Pedro Martinelli 20 people, including 3 CAD designers. 2 Offices- Rio Preto &
Sao Paulo. Martinelli uses freelance designers. No salespeople employed. Does not exhibit at trade
fairs (only Campina?).Uses a Chinese company for some CAD design.500 new products annually –
takes careful notice of jewellery worn by actors on TV Soap operas.
Use of technology

3D Cad
5
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Lost wax casting(cast directly from resin builds)
Laser welding/marking/cutting
Tool making
Use barcode tracking system for work in progress/production control
Latest/up to date technology?
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Gemvision Matrix 3D CAD software
Envisiontec RP machine
Wax injection machines X 2
2 X bench top Sisma lasers
Laser marking/cutting
New hollow tube/hoop earring machinery ordered ( supplier will train 5 staff in usage)
Training required/needs?
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Design( especially with understanding of fashion/trends and originality)
3D CAD
Technology/production Issues?
CAD designers undertook CAD training in Sao Paulo - competent but not creative jewellery
designers. They would like training in fashion/trends as appropriate to Jewellery originality/creativity
and CAD.
Ajoresp – Sao Jose do Rio Preto Jewellery association and new city Jewellery Centre
Visited the offices and met with Jose A Pinto - 9 people on the team which includes an HR specialist
and a specialist environmental consultant. They have meeting rooms and a seminar/conference
room which is used by the Association for training and events and is also rented out.
Visited the building plot/site for the new city Jewellery Centre – consisting of a secure compound
containing 69 units close to the city’s airport. 38 companies are to locate on the site where there will
be central casting, design, rapid prototyping, refining, meeting rooms, and seminar/conference and
security facilities. There will be communal show room facilities for trade buyers.
Senai School
400 square metres currently devoted to jewellery. The school is planning further expansion of the
jewellery department, this scheduled additional development will take the space up to 1,200 square
metres.
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New technology includes one Digital Wax 3D printer and a mini galvanizing/plating unit (from Legor)
and a spectrophotometer. The apprentices undertake 1600 hours in a year at the School and their
training covers all areas of jewellery production. My understanding was that this is a foundation type
of apprenticeship level course, and that each year the school produces some 30 students annually
who then seek employment within the area. Some may elect to return to the school to undertake
further study in their chosen are of specialism (e.g. stone setting), however most do not. The School
offers part time classes and short courses in addition. The School is split into process areas (wax
injection, CAD, RP, casting, stone setting, model making, plating, metal analysis etc.)
Tuesday (12/07)

Travel to Guaporé – Rio Grande do Sul – 23,000 inhabitants and 100 jewellery companies
Wednesday (13/07)

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Visit 4 industries (Joias Condor www.jcondor.com.br / Pasli Joias www.pasli.com.br /
Qualitá Joias www.qualitajoias.com.br / Exotik Joias www.exotikjoias.com.br )
Visit Senai
Lunch with producers
Joias Condor www.jcondor.com.br

Overview – met with Virginia Alves. 200 employees and 100-150 homeworkers. Two distinct
product offers – fine precious jewellery and fashion (Nickel free and plated) jewellery
including silver. Launch 3 collections per year and 1 children’s collection. Key dates are
Christmas and Mother’s day. Company undertake trend/colour forecasting research to
inform new products. 3 designers which will shortly increase to 4.4 CAD designers. Plating
dept. has 2 analysts, 2 brightening/cleaning and 10 in the team in total. Design/Cad and
mould making depts. work for both fashion and fine jewellery aspects of business.
Use of technology
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3D CAD
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Lost wax casting (72 flasks per day – 6 staff in dept.)
Plating
Stone in place casting
Barcode tracking system for work in progress/production.
Library of moulds (use dual moulds - mixture of silicon and rubber) catalogued by an ID chip
embedded in a key fob and attached to mould.
Modelling
Laser welding
Laser cutting/marking (Jewellery dept.)
Tool making and spark erosion for tooling
Stamping
Plating
Surface finishing/polishing
Refining, recycling, metal production.)
Latest/up to date technology?
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Artcam, Rhino and 3Design CAD software
Solidscape T76 and Digital wax 028 RP machines
Sisma laser marking machine.
Neutec vacuum casting machine
State of the art plating dept.
Otec mechanical surface polishing machines
Training required/needs?

None identified – company undertakes training in house including training for sales reps and
retailers.
Technology/production Issues?
•
None identified – Noted that Designers and CAD designers regarded as two separate depts.
/skill sets. Unsure as to how much interaction occurs between the two.
Pasli Joias www.pasli.com.br
Overview
Established over 104 years ago – now run by 4th generation. Occupy a building of 2400 square
metre but only use 1,400 square metres. 3 people employed in casting/tooling department. 2 staff
responsible for CAD/CAM.
Use of technology
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3D CAD
Lost wax casting
Laser welding
Laser cutting/marking (in silver)
Stamping
Mechanical surface finishing polishing(in need of upgrading)
CNC milling in wax
Spark erosion for tooling
Latest/up to date technology?
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Rhino and Artcam CAD software.
2 X desk top Sisma laser welders(used by 2 staff)
Laser marking/cutting.(Sisma)
Training required/needs?
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Finishing/polishing – to include good housekeeping and maintenance of burrs/mops etc.
Soldering of ear wires onto earrings.
Help with internal (in - house) training
Technology/production Issues?
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Casting quality
Mechanical and hand finishing equipment – (maintenance and age)
Plating (maintenance and age)
Qualitá Joias www.qualitajoias.com.br
Overview
2 x CAD designers. 1 x Modelmaker (also does CAD). Casting done on another company owned
site. Surface finishing /polishing sent out to an independent company. Plating plant – hard rhodium
plating & palladium. Recycling subcontracted out. Orders fulfilled in 1 week. Look to magazines and
trade catalogues for new product inspiration.
Use of technology
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3D Cad
White metal casting(molten metal straight into moulds)
Latest/up to date technology?
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Artcam 3D CAD software
Training required/needs?
Possibly RP machine usage after evaluation/feasibility study of new machine at Senai School has
been undertaken.
Technology/production Issues?
Would benefit from computerised or barcode system for production (All handwritten at present)
Exotik Joias www.exotikjoias.com.br
Overview
A smaller company, who stated that they were happy maintaining their current size. Collection is
changed 3 times a year. 12 employees on the site I visited, who undertake stone setting in wax,
soldering, gluing/cold fixing, rhodium plating, pre plating assembly and assembly. Company uses an
additional 30 homeworkers (for soldering and wax injection) and employs 8 sales agents. 1 model
maker and 1 caster. Wax injection done by home workers and lost wax casting is done on another
site (not visited but I was informed that it has all related equipment). No CAD or in house design, but
do use freelance designers. Company use SENAI for CNC and RP processes at present.
Use of technology
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White metal casting
9
Latest/up to date technology?
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None observed
Training required/needs?
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Design( especially with understanding of fashion/trends and originality)
3D CAD
Technology/production Issues?
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None on the site I visited as staff were principally engaged in hand work/assembly. Selection
of products produced was extremely wide, no USP to collections.
Exotik product range
Visit to Sindijoias - Guapore
Discussed recent annual regional trade fair held over two consecutive weekends which attracted
over 15,000 people/public attendees.
Senai Jewellery School - Guaporé – Rio Grande do Sul
This School is not equipped to the same standard as the Senai school in Sao Jose do Rio Preto.
The School had just taken delivery of a digital wax Rapid Prototyping machine which was in it’s box
awaiting setting up by the technician on 14th August. Other equipment includes a CNC Roland
Miller (3-4 axis) Rhino and Artcam software, 20 benches for model making/soldering etc., 1
polishing station, 1 vulcanising press, and mould making and cutting facilities. As I understand the
system - students study 0.5% of their time at School/college and 0.5% of their time with SENAI.
They earn a minimum salary and after they complete their course they are employed. Should
companies wish to use SENAI for additional training once students have finished/are employed they
are charged/have to pay. Staff were shown a presentation on the School of Jewellery and given an
overview of courses and the levels of study available in the UK.
Visit to retail Centre/Shopping mall.
The out of town retail Centre (shopping mall) offers products made by local companies to the public.
Primarily lingerie and jewellery including Condor, and Qualitas.
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Thursday (14/07)

Visit 2 industries MW do Brasil www.mwdobrasil.com.br and Dyzarz
www.dyzarz.com.br
MW do Brasil www.mwdobrasil.com.br
Overview
Established 20 years ago.30 employees, and 15 – 30 homeworkers used for soldering and
assembly.15% of findings/component parts are imported - rest are from Brazil. No CAD capacity but
use SENAI School for CAD and CNC and propose to use and/or undertake feasibility study on their
new RP machine. 2 Designers, 4 solderers in house + 5-6 homeworkers. White metal casting – over
2,000 different patterns.
Use of technology
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White metal casting
Soldering and pre plating assembly and assembly
Plating ( 5 different gold colours)
Latest/up to date technology?
Training required/needs?
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Design( especially with understanding of fashion/trends and originality)
Micro setting/stone setting.
Awareness of/training in new techniques/processes.
3D CAD
Technology/production Issues?
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Surface finishing – processes could be improved to achieve better results.
Presence of Nickel in some alloys used.
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Preparing products for plating at MW do Brasil
Dyzarz www.dyzarz.com.br
Overview
Young company utilising Brazilian semi-precious gem stones and creating fashion jewellery that
is more contemporary than most products that I saw. Utilises 16 different coloured stones, has
over 500 different ring mounts and 1000 different stones/styles. Introduces 10 – 15 new rings
and 30 – 40 earrings per month. Product is sold to customers unplated – typically 10,000 pieces
per order. The only range that the company plate is their leather ring range. Dyzarz utilise a
chemical photo etching company’s services. Big rings are best sellers - they are sold at $3 each.
The company uses 33 different coloured gemstones in their ranges - Some stone cutting is done
in Brazil but most is sent to China semi – finished for finishing as company say stone cutting is
expensive in Brazil. The company owner uses the internet for inspiration for shapes and forms
which he adapts. Ideas creation is the most important activity to the owner – they undertake
market research, look at trends and fashion and have used a freelance designer who is shortly
to be employed by the company. Casting is outsourced, as is stone cutting. Assembly and
setting is done in house, and they import glass from China.
Use of technology
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3D Cad
Lost wax casting(outsourced)
Latest/up to date technology?
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3D CAD software
Training required/needs?
Technology/production Issues?
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Need to review products and capitalise on best sellers items with USP
Travel to Rio de Janerio
Friday (15/07)
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
Visit Ajorio and Senai
Discussion with Ajorio re KTP model as used in the UK and Additive manufacturing/JIIC
current UK Government project. Discussed the need for a jewellery related research centre
12
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which would include remit to test new materials, and that the RIO jewellery school is private,
and that good management is missing overall within the industry.
Overview of related associations;-
Ajorio – Collaborates with all associations – represents the whole sector, has government
partnerships and is Rio Jewellery Association. Sincojoias, - Union for retail jewellers, (strong
union), SNCAPP – stone wholesalers for /to retail jewellers (used to be very strong – this was
how H. Stern started), Sincajor – wholesalers for jewellery and watches in Rio, Sindicato des
Industries… – is the union for jewellery manufacturers and lapidarists. Represents everybody
from designers to supplier’s et al.
Meeting with SENAI – met Eliana Rossi Andrello and Ana Carla Torres in the SENAI Rio offices.
Eliana was shown a presentation on the School of Jewellery and the JIIC work with industry, and
given an overview of courses and the levels of study available in the UK. We discussed the potential
for BCU/JIIC to organize a bespoke Summer School for the Brazilian Jewellery Industry.
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Discussion with Eliana re proposed new SENAI school in Rio – currently there are only
benches- stone setting and model making – no casting facilities and there is a lack of
knowledge of stamping processes /technology and well paid jobs for students completing
their training/within the jewellery industry.
Met with Ana – discussion regarding Fashion forum – They have created a forum as a
networking group – members include industry, University’s and associations. Fashion Forum
is made up of 11 associations within Rio and includes the whole fashion chain. (Shoes,
accessories etc.). They share information/identify gaps/ try to resolve common problems by
collaborative problem solving. Predominantly made up of micro businesses. They
communicate how to add value. They undertake clinics/seminars/trade fair visits to both
exhibit and observe. This model could also be relevant to jewellery.
Saturday (16/07) -Tourism
Sunday (17/07) -Tourism
Monday (18/07)

Lecture in Rio
Tuesday (19/07) - Travel to UK
Overview of the industry as a whole – observations summarised.
Use of technology – Most of the companies visited use either lost wax or white metal casting
processes and generally have a sound understanding on how to utilise these processes to get
best results. Virtually all companies utilise the process of stone setting into wax and then stone
in place casting. Virtually all companies use hand (pen) rhodium plating and/or plating. There is
pretty extensive use of 3D CAD programmes (usually only one CAD programme per company),
but less usage of Rapid prototyping – where the CAD/CAM (RP)/casting process is used
companies cast directly from the RP build, and use cast to create a master in order to produce a
mould. Wax injection machines are used extensively. Several companies have a huge stock of
silicon/rubber moulds – which are added to regularly with new lines/items. Mechanical surface
finishing processes observed varied in results, quality of results, age of equipment and also
sometimes maintenance/understanding of how to optimise usage. The industry is reliant on a
whole variety of hand processes pre and post casting and most companies utilise the services of
home workers. Plating standards, related health and safety considerations and quality varied
from company to company. Design and CAD design tend not to be integrated or viewed as
something which would benefit from integration/team working. Designs observed were catering
13
predominantly for the home market and tended to be 2.5D as opposed to 3D and broadly
featured “safe” and traditional designs aimed at the lower price points. Computerised processes
for production tracking/stock control etc. varied in usage – some were very sophisticated whilst
others were non-existent. Most companies of necessity have a maintenance department or
person and the ingenuity and ability of these individuals often keeps equipment of indeterminate
age going.
Latest/up to date technology?
In terms of 3D CAD and Rapid Prototyping most companies were either using both or had good
knowledge of the processes. My overall impression was that most companies could get more
out of the CAD/CAM process in terms of more individual/creative designs and better/cleverer
use of RP equipment and/or build material. Many companies are utilising laser welding
technologies but again they are principally used for procedures like filling porosity in casting as
opposed to exploiting the technology creatively. Laser marking/cutting usage was less prevalent,
but again those companies who were using it could benefit from exploiting the technology
creatively.
Training required/needs?
CAD design training and Design training are regarded as two separate and distinct disciplines. I
understand that this is partly due to the fact that designers are considered (or consider
themselves) as “better than” CAD operatives. Overall the standard of design was not
inspirational, neither did product vary significantly from company to company. There seems to
be a reliance on creating variations on other jewellery company’s products, variations of the
company’s existing range or reproducing items worn by the popular soap stars. Designers were
often from product design courses and some did not have an understanding of designing for
manufacture.
Overall there is primarily only “entry” level training – people who have undertaken the basic
jewellery foundation 1 year/1600 hours at a SENAI school. There seemed to be few people who
have undergone any training regarding an understanding of technologies as related to the needs
of the business (including economic reasons for investing in both people to operate /exploit the
technology to the full and ROI), nor , in my view, was the training in appropriate technology as
provided by SENAI adequate.
There seemed to be little or no training given to homeworkers as companies used people who
had worked in the industry before, but whose circumstances had changed so that they needed
to work from home. As the total number of homeworkers across the industry must be significant
companies may well benefit from updating skills of homeworkers. Overall most companies
operate each department as a single entity and I believe staff would benefit from an
understanding of where their process fits into the production cycle and why it is crucial for all
staff/departments to enforce constant quality regulation/control.
Technology/production Issues?
General observations with regard to the businesses visited – For all companies there is a need for
them to;
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Know their customer
Position their product
Take steps to ensure a skilled and competent workforce
Implement and enforce systems and procedures
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Implement robust CRM processes
Close the gap between the management and the shop floor
Be flexible/agile/adjust to change
Position themselves in the global jewellery market – know their competitors
Tell the customer about Brazilian jewellery – what makes it special – move away from price
fixation/low cost only products.
Keep up to speed with trends/fashion and customer buying patterns/changes
SWOT analysis of observations made during my visit
Strengths
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Committed owner /managers with sound understanding of technology and processes.
Creativity – but this is channeled to selected markets only.
Proactive associations who listen to and interact well with the industry.
Jewellery is acknowledged as important to the economy and there is the capacity to grow
the market and export markets.
Weaknesses
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Lack of education about product and processes amongst retailers
Lack of communication between departments within some companies.
Staff do not seem to have overview of the whole process or what they are making and for
whom.
Difficulty in getting parts and spares from some suppliers.
Design and CAD are usually 2 separate unrelated activities.
Not all jewellery designers understand jewellery manufacture.
Concentration on either high or low ends of the market or very specific home markets (all
eggs in one basket).
Little appetite for export or exploration of new markets.
Opportunities
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Brazilians are a creative people – use this to push the boundaries of design and create
products that have an individual company style.
Brazilian style – what is it/what defines a piece of jewellery made in Brazil from another
country?
Create buying groups for parts and materials within associations/regions/cities, this should
increase bargaining power.
Share best practice in common areas e.g. plating.
Organise Technology events – e.g. a laser themed technology event which brings together
many suppliers and companies.
Innovation and appropriate use of technology produces value for companies.
Cooperation is the cheapest form of innovation.
Share creation and development of new training courses/opportunities.
Applying appropriate new technologies and processes will enable the industry to be more
competitive.
There are global opportunities within the creative industries – look beyond Brazil.
Share education of retailers – give them the story of the product, the material, the design etc.
There are tax incentives for companies undertaking R & D.
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Threats
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Lack of joined up thinking – manufacture is seen as a series of separate processes and not
a series of production processes which contribute to the end product – quality should be built
into every process – it cannot be added at the end “ Rubbish in – rubbish out” .
Reliance on processes which are dependent on existing kit being “kept going” by
engineers/regular in house maintenance.
High cost of equipment compared to USA/EU due to taxes.
Resistance to change – need to move forward and embrace the new and as a creative
industry be part of the emerging knowledge economy.
Lack of investment.
Illegal imports.
Brazilian policy in the past was to simply replace imported goods with home products – this
policy did not consider technology or innovation. If this policy/way of thinking is maintained
then the growth and survival of the Brazilian Jewellery industry will be threatened.
Outdated technology parks and training.
Curriculums/areas of study/module content should be reviewed on an annual basis to ensure
industry appropriate knowledge and understanding - the industry needs tools to guarantee
the quality of the workforce.
Various Taxes seem to be an unknown quantity (they cannot be quantified or planned for
due to constant change) and a universal hindrance to business.
Lack of middle management – the majority of the expertise and knowledge is with the MD’s
who in most cases set up the company. There seems to be very little succession planning or
middle management structure in most companies.
Training is predominantly at “entry” level. Design degree courses are not generally jewellery
specific (product design related), CAD training is generic 3D and there seems to be no
opportunity for people employed in the industry to “up – skill” or acquire new knowledge
(other than within some workplaces) during their career.
I am more than happy to expand on any area of this report should this be required, and I would like
to thank IBGM who ensured that I had an interesting and full programme, and that I was well
looked after during my visit, and I am grateful to all the companies and their staff who made me feel
so very welcome and who were open and informative.
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