Brazil 10 - Index (Chapter)
Transcrição
Brazil 10 - Index (Chapter)
7 24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well‑traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed‑ back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award‑winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Zoe Abrams B Carolina Barros, Annelies Bossaerts C Diana Caplinska, Emily Chiswick- Patterson D Hector Del Olmo L Igor Livshits M Shaila Mahomed, Helena Marambio, Juan Miguel Mariatti, Claudio Milletti N Gragnon Nathalie, Riccardo Negri, Kris Nicolai R Elisa Renzi, Jenny Robb, Johanna Rydelius S Rafael Santos, Matan Shacham, Cynthia Smith, Paul Sorensen, Liam Spencer, Howard Spodek, Bridget Stap, Paul Steele, Torje Sunde T Yury Tulchinsky W Tim Wardle, Frans Wildenborg, Ronald Wolff, Julie Woods AUTHOR THANKS Regis St Louis Many thanks to new and old friends who helped with tips and advice. In particular I’d like to thank Cristiano Nogueira, Jakki Saysell, Alberto Armendáriz, Marcelo Esteves, Marcio Zaidan, Vitor Souza, Philip de Wit, Bindu Ma‑ thur, Thiago Mourão, Ian Papareskos, Eduardo Cruxen, and Kevin Raub. Beijos to Cassandra, Magdalena and Genevieve for joining me on the road. Gary Chandler Thank you to Bettine Robers in Tefé, Fernanda Sá Vieira at Mamirauá, Pedro Neto in Manaus, Karim Abu Bakr in Santarém, Gil Serique in Alter do Chão, Chris Clark and Claus Pfeiffer in Novo Airão, and Regis St. Louis and MaSovaida Morgan at LP. Thank you to my family and in‑laws for help on the home front, and to Eva and Leo—kids extraordinaire. And to Liza, who I love and admire more than I can say—thank you for everything. Gregor Clark Muito obrigado to the countless Brazilians who generously shared their smiles, thumbs‑up and local knowledge of Brazil—from Maira, Alex and family in Minas to Angela and Margarida in Rio state, and others too numerous to name. Back in Vermont, big muriqui‑style abraços to Mei‑ gan and Chloe for keeping me happy, helping 725 me research and embracing life on the road with me, and to Gaen, who always makes coming home the best part of the trip. Bridget Gleeson Anna Kaminski I would like to thank MaSovaida for entrusting me with this chapter, my fellow scribes Kevin, Paul and Regis for advice while on the road and everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular, Joel for his wonderful hospitality and assistance in Cuiaba, Gil and Luis for all their hard work and help in Campo Grande, Corumbá and Bonito, Bonifacio for guiding me on the Transpantaneira, Maria and Vini‑ cius in Bonito and Douglas and Vitoria at the Cristalino Jungle Lodge. THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Brazil guidebook was researched and written by Regis St Louis, Gary Chandler, Gregor Clark, Bridget Gleeson, Anna Kaminski and Kevin Raub. Regis, Gary, Gregor, Bridget, and Kevin also worked on the previous edition along with John Noble and Paul Smith. This guidebook was produced by the following: Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who sure does do her best to teach me the Brazilian dance when I run into roadblocks on the road (even though I don’t dance)! Maso vaida Morgan; and all my partners‑in‑crime. On the road, Malu Sabatino, Daniella Bar bosa, Helena Costa, Rodrigo Angel, Ion David, Kely Zimath, Thiago Luiz, Marcia Gazola, Edu Passarelli, Vanessa Carvalho, Mario Saraiva, Craig Smit, Lucas Mello, Filipe Correia, Joana Pires, Ana Muller, Roberta Rodrigues, Raissa Monteiro, Shannon Sims, Sebastian Koch, Marina Prado, Ana Muller. Marcio & Paula Hernandez and Julien Leroy. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen‑Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. Cover photograph: Corcovado, Rio de Janeiro, Antonino Bartuccio/4Corners Destination Editor MaSovaida Morgan Product Editors Kate Chapman, Martine Power Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths Book Designer Virginia Moreno Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Judith Bamber, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Elizabeth Jones, Helen Koehne, Katie O’Connell, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Christopher Pitts Cartographer Julie Dodkins Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Anita Banh, Barbara Di Castro, Ryan Evans, Kate Mathews, Catherine Naghten, Mazzy Prinsep, Vicky Smith, Amanda Williamson BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S Thank you to the tourism board in Lençóis for their ongoing assistance with maps and information about Parque Nacional Chapada Diamantina, to the posada staff who made my birthday on Morro de São Paulo special, and to all of the friendly Brazilian people who always along my way when I’m traveling alone in the Northeast. Kevin Raub ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 7 26 Index A Abismo de Anhumas 392 accommodations 702‑3, see also individual locations favelas 87 language 717 long‑term rentals 88 Acre 652‑8 activities 24, 25‑7, 40‑2 addresses 342 air travel 711‑12, 713-14, 715 airlines 713 airports 711 Aiuruoca 197 Alagoas 48, 465, 466, 472‑82, 466 accommodations 465 climate 465 highlights 466, 466 transportation 467 travel seasons 465 Alcântara 563 Aleijadinho 185, 186 Algodoal 586‑7 Alter do Chão 18, 597‑601, 18 Alto Paraíso de Goiás 359‑60 Amado, Jorge 441 Amazonas 605‑40 Amazon, the 15, 48, 569‑658, 570‑1, 616, 15, 584‑5, 623-30 accommodations 569 books 583 climate 569 highlights 570‑1, 570‑1 nature reserves 569 safety 581, 587, 597 transportation 573 travel seasons 569 Americana 241 anaconda 630 Anchieta 215 Anchieta Palace 208 Anhangabaú 226 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 animals 623‑30, 693‑9, see also individual species, wildlife-watching anteaters 625, 694, 625, 694 ants 630 aquariums 69, 382, 391, 467 Aracaju 467‑70 architecture 14, 340‑1, 14, 340‑1 area codes 21, 708, 709 Armação 298, 299‑300 Arraial d’Ajuda 449‑51 Arraial do Cabo 152‑3, 155, 155 art, see folk art, galleries As Misões 631 Atins 565, 550 ATMs 706 Avenida Paulista 228‑9, 236‑7, 239‑44, 246‑8, 230-1 B Backdoor 445‑64 Bahia 47, 397‑464, 398 beaches 397 climate 397 food 397 highlights 398, 398 transportation 399 travel seasons 397 Baía do Sancho 505 Baía dos Porcos 505, 506‑7 Baixo Augusta 228, 244‑5, 248 Balneário Camboriú 308‑10 Banespa 229 Barcelos 620 bargaining 706 Barra da Lagoa 295‑6 Barra da Tijuca 77‑83 Barra de Santo Antônio 481 Barra de São Miguel 479 Barra do Camaragibe 481 Barra do Superagüi 276 Barra Funda 248 Barra Grande 436‑7 Barra Velha 453 Barreirinhas 565 bathrooms 709 beach‑buggies 526, 530, 544, 549 beaches 19, 22, 155, 550, 19, 154-5, 550-1 Alagoas 472, 478, 479, 481, 482 Amazon, the 18, 586, 589, 597, 608, 620, 640, 18 Bahia 397, 420, 431, 434, 436, 437, 441, 449, 455 Búzios 160 Ceará 537‑8, 544 Espírito Santo 209, 213, 215 Maranhão 561 Paraíba 513, 514, 525 31 Paraná 273‑5 Paraty 132, 135-6 Pernambuco 496‑7, 505, 507, 506-7 Porto Seguro 445, 447 Praia do Espelho 452 Praia dos Ossos 154-5, 160 Rio de Janeiro 51, 56, 60, 61, 77, 78, 58‑9 Rio de Janeiro state 120, 124, 151, 152, 153, 154-5 Rio Grande do Norte 519‑20, 524, 525-7, 530, 31 Rio Grande do Sul 330 Salvador 407 Santa Catarina 19, 294-5, 298, 299, 308, 312, 19 São Paulo state 254, 256, 259 Sergipe 467 beer 13, 309, 689, 13 breweries 142, 307 Bela Adormecida 621 Belém 573‑83, 574‑5, 582 Belo Horizonte 163‑75, 166 Belo Monte Dam 596 Belterra 592 Bento Gonçalves 321‑3 bicycling 714 Alagoas 472 Paraná 275 Rio de Janeiro 79 Rio de Janeiro state 132 Vale Europeu 307 birds 695‑8, 626, 626‑7, 693, 696, 697 bird‑watching 150, 256, 372, 393, 467, 586 Biribiri 200 Blumenau 13, 303‑8, 304, 306‑7 Boa Vista 640‑3, 641 boat travel 713, 714, 154‑5, see also riverboat travel Alagoas 472, 476 Amazon, the 576, 586, 590, 609, 646, 648 Bahia 432 Fernando de Noronha 505 Iguaçu Falls 278‑9, 285-6 Maranhão 565 Paraná 280, 285 Rio de Janeiro 81 Rio de Janeiro state 132 Santa Catarina 301 São Paulo state 256, 259 Boi‑Bumbá 615, 26 Boiçucanga 254 Boipeba 434‑5 Bom Jardim 371‑2 Bom Jardim da Serra 311 Bombas 298 Bombinhas 298 bonde, see cable cars Bonito 17, 391‑6, 392, 17 books 660, 666, 689, 693 Amazon, the 583 border crossings 712‑13 Argentina 277, 286, 712 Bolivia 389, 643, 712 Chile 712 Colombia 712 French Guiana 712 Guyana 645, 712 Paraguay 286, 394, 712 Peru 712-13 Suriname 712 Uruguay 332, 713 Venezuela 645, 713 bossa nova 91, 678 Botafogo 60, 86, 98‑9, 106‑7, 116, 66‑7 botos 628, 694, 628 727 C cable cars 75, 308, 405, 542, 59 Cabo Frio 153‑6 cachaça 136 Cachoeira 422‑4, 424‑5 Cachoeira da Serra Azul 372 Cachoeira das Tocas 259 Cachoeira de Roncadeira 605 Cachoeira do Escorrega 139 Cachoeira do Rappel 605 Cachoeira Tobogã 136 cacique 626 Caeté‑Açu 463 caiman 630 Caldas Novas 351 Camamu 436 Cambará do Sul 328‑30 Caminhos de Pedra 327, 326-7 Campeche 299 Campo Grande 382‑7, 384‑5 Campos do Jordão 238 Canal do Jarí 598 Canasvieiras 294‑5 Candomblé 426‑7, 426‑7 Canela 329 Cânion da Fortaleza 328 Canoa Quebrada 544‑6, 550, 550‑1 canoeing, see kayaking canyoning 359 canyons 328 Capão 463 capoeira 410‑11, 410‑11 courses 407, 499, 549, 411 Salvador 418‑19 car travel 713, 714-15 caracaras 697, 696 Caraíva 449, 453‑5 Caravelas 455‑6 Carimbado 196 Carioca da Gema 58, 109, 58 Carnatal 520 Carnaval 14, 25, 34‑9, 14, 18, 37, 90 Corumbá 389 Maceió 473 Olinda 499, 18 Ouro Preto 179‑80 Paraty 132 Porto Seguro 447 Recife 490, 37 Rio de Janeiro 14, 91, 110, 14, 37 Salvador 409 São João del Rei 187 Casa da Imagem 229 Casarão do Matutu 197 Cascata do Caracol 329 Cascatinha 206 cash 706 Castelo do Garcia d’Ávila 428 Catedral Metropolitana 338‑9, 14, 341 Catete 65, 68, 66‑7 caves Amazon, the 609, 617 Gruta da Lapa Doce 460 Gruta da Pedra Furada 471 Gruta do Lago Azul 393, 17 Gruta do Lapão 463 Gruta do Salitre 201‑2 Grutas das Encantadas 273 Minas Gerais 196 Monte Alegre 600 Paraíba 517 Parque Nacional de Ubajara 542 Roteiro da Caverna Aroe Jari e Lagoa Azul 370‑1 Caxambu 195‑7 Ceará 48, 531, 534‑56, 532‑3, 535 accommodations 531 climate 531 food 531 highlights 532, 532‑3 travel seasons 531 Cedro 256 cell phones 20, 709‑10 Centro 68‑71, 87‑8, 99‑101, 107‑8, 116, 72‑3 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil 167 Centro Cultural São Francisco 514 cerrado 358 Cervejaria Bohemia 142 Chapada Diamantina 460 Chapada dos Guimarães 368‑70 Chica da Silva 200 Chico‑Rei 181 Chico Taquara 196 children, travel with 43‑4 Rio de Janeiro 85 chimarrão 322 chocolate 209, 440 Christ the Redeemer 65, 10‑11, 58-9 Chuí 332 Chuy (Uruguay) 332 Cidade de Goiás 350‑3, 352 Cidade Ecléctica 346 cinema 685‑6 Círio de Nazaré 578, 590 city codes 709 Ciudad del Este (Paraguay) 286 climate 25‑7, 20, see also individual regions climbing 40, see also mountains Amazon, the 621 Bahia 459 Pedra do Baú 238 Rio de Janeiro 78‑9 Rio de Janeiro state 136‑8, 145 coati 625 Cobija (Bolivia) 657 coffee 145, 246 Colombia 712 Congonhas 185‑7, 198, 198 Congresso Nacional 339, 341, 340‑1 consulates 703‑4 Copacabana 60, 85‑6, 96‑8, 105‑6, 113‑16, 62‑3, 90-1 Corcovado 65 corruption 660 Corumbá 387‑91, 388 Corumbály 387‑91, 388 Cosme Velho 64‑5 Costa da Lagoa 297 Costa de Dentro 300 Costa do Sol 151 Costa Verde 121‑36 courses capoeira 407, 499, 549, 411 cooking 81, 134, 407‑8 dance 407 language 233, 408 samba 80 credit cards 707 Cristo Redentor 65, 10‑11, 58‑9 Cristo Rei do Pantanal 387‑8 cruises, see boat travel, riverboat travel Cuiabá 363‑8, 364‑5 cultural festivals, see also Carnaval, individual locations Alter do Chão 599 Cuiabá 365 Domingos Martins 216 Lençóis 461 Manaus 610 Ouro Preto 180 Rio de Janeiro 83 São João 189 São Joaquim 311 Tiradentes 193 Vassouras 146 Cumbuco 538 Curitiba 264‑70, 266 currency 20, 285, 706 customs regulations 703 cycling, see bicycling D dance 410-11, 410-11 festivals 212, 300 dancing 108‑12 Delta do Parnaíba 554‑5 dengue 705 Diamantina 198, 200‑3, 201 disabilities, travelers with 709‑10 distilleries 136 diving 40‑1, 506 Bahia 428, 434 Fernando de Noronha 505, 507 Mato Grosso do Sul 392 Rio de Janeiro state 124‑5, 132, 152, 157 Santa Catarina 296, 298 dolphins 628, 694, 629 dolphin-watching Amazon, the 597, 618, 631 Paraná 276 Pernambuco 508‑9 Rio Grande do Norte 527 Domingos Martins 215‑16 Dom João Vi 667 drinking 22‑3, 322, 689‑90 drinking water 705‑6 driving, see car travel Dunas de Genipabu 526 DVDs 704 I N D E X B – D Brasiléia 657‑8 Brasília 14, 47, 333, 335‑49, 334, 336‑7, 344, 14, 340‑1 accommodations 333, 343‑5 activities 343 climate 333 drinking 346‑7 entertainment 347 food 333, 345‑6 highlights 334, 334 information 347‑8 nightlife 346-7 shopping 347 sights 335‑43 tours 343 transportation 348-9 travel seasons 333 Brennand Workshop & Institute 490 breweries 142, 307, see also beer budget 21 Bumba Meu Boi 27, 557 business hours 707 bus travel 713, 714, 716 butterflies 630, 691 Búzios 156‑61, 155, 157, 158 7 28 E I N D E X E – I eagles 626, 626 Eclectic City 346 economy 661 electricity 703, 704 Elevador Lacerda 402 embassies 703‑4 Embu 251 emergencies 21 language 720 Encontro das Águas 608‑9 Engenhoca 437 environment 699-700 Belo Monte Dam 596 Goiás 358 Itaipu Dam 287 erva maté 322 Escadaria Selarón 71 Espírito Santo 46, 162, 208‑17, 164‑5 accommodations 162 climate 162 food 162 highlights 164‑5, 164‑5 travel seasons 162 Estação Biológica de Caratinga 205 Estação das Docas 576 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 21 F favela 671 accommodations 87 drinking 103 nightlife 103 tours 81 fazendas 145‑6 Amazon, the 590 Feira de Santana 457 feiras 100 Fernando de Noronha 12, 503‑13, 508‑9, 12, 506‑7 activities 505‑10 beaches 505 drinking & nightlife 512 food 511‑12 medical services 512 sights 505 sleeping 510‑11 tourist information 512 transportation 512-13 Festa de Iemanjá 427, 427 Festa do Divino Espírito Santo 357 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 festivals & events 24, 25‑7, see also Carnaval art 234 beer 304 Boi‑Bumbá 615, 26 Bumba Meu Boi 27, 557 Carnatal 520 Círio de Nazaré 578 dance 212, 300 Festa de Iemanjá 427, 427 Festa de São João 468 Festa de São Sebastião 441 Festa do Divino Espírito Santo 357 Festival Internacional de Balonismo 331 film 83, 180, 193, 234, 352, 609 food 133, 193, 234 literary 133 Micareta 457 music 202, 216, 234, 515, 539, 609 New Year’s Eve (Reveillon) 27, 83, 234, 409‑13 Oktoberfest 27, 304, 307 Semana Santa 25, 132, 180, 351‑2, 26 surfing 151, 513 film 660, 686, 692 festivals 83, 180, 193, 234, 352, 609 Finnish colonies 140 fishing 463, 633 Flamengo 61, 64, 86‑7, 99, 107, 116, 66‑7 Flecheiras 538 Floresta Nacional (FLONA) do Tapajós 595‑7 Floresta Nova 504 Floresta Velha 504 Florianópolis 291‑4, 292 Floripa, see Florianópolis folk art 459 food 22‑3, 687‑90, 704, 242-3, 687, 689 cooking courses 81, 134, 407‑8 festivals 133, 193, 234 glossary 690 language 718‑20 Pantanal, the 375 pizza 242‑3 tropeiros 356 football 115, 682‑4, 114‑15 Arena Castelão 541 museums 228 Rio de Janeiro 112 Ford, Henry 592, 598 Fordlândia 583, 592, 598 forró 211, 212, 461, 468, 495, 503, 549 Fortaleza 534‑44, 536‑7 Fortalezinha 586 Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra 406‑8 Foz do Iguaçu 280‑4, 282 Foz do São Francisco 467, 480 fraud 707 free attractions 229 frogs 630, 630 G Galés marine reserve 482 Galinhos 524 galleries, see also museums Centro Cultural Oi Futuro 65, 68 Galeria Milan 233 GaleRio 60 Galos 524 Garapuá 431 gardens, see parks & gardens Gávea 56‑60, 85, 95‑6, 104‑5, 54‑5 gay travelers 705 Florianópolis 294 Rio de Janeiro 105 Salvador 417 São Paulo 247 German settlements 303 Gil, Gilberto 678, 91 gliding 40, 41, 149, 544, 551 Rio de Janeiro 79‑80 Santa Catarina 311 Glória 65, 68, 72‑3 Goiânia 349‑50 Goiás 47, 333, 349‑60, 334 accommodations 333 climate 333 food 333 travel seasons 333 Goitacá warriors 214 Gostoso 529‑30 Gramado 323‑5, 324 Gran Sabana 644 Gruta de São Thomé 196 Guajará‑Mirim 649‑50, 650 Guarapari 213‑14 Guarda do Embaú 310‑12 Guarujá 254 Guayaramerín (Bolivia) 650‑2 Guiomard dos Santos, José 652 H hang gliding, see gliding Hawaizinho 437, 439 health 705‑6 Pantanal, the 378 Higienópolis 228 hiking 40, 41‑2, see also climbing, mountains Amazon, the 586, 593, 615, 644 Argentina 287 Bahia 428‑9, 463 Espírito Santo 211 Goiás 358‑9 Iguaçu Falls 279 Maranhão 565 Mato Grosso 370, 371 Minas Gerais 192, 197, 201, 207‑8 Paraná 280, 285 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia 136-8 Pernambuco 509‑10 Rio de Janeiro 61, 78‑9 Rio de Janeiro state 124, 132, 141, 143, 145, 149 Rio Grande do Sul 328 Santa Catarina 299, 311 São Paulo state 238, 256 history 24, 662‑73 hitchhiking 715‑16 hoatzin 626, 627 holidays 707 horse racing 112 horseback‑riding 132, 185, 216, 328, 394, 459 hot springs 351 hot‑air ballooning 331 Hotel Globo 515 I ibis 626, 627 Icaraí de Amontada 546-7, 550 Icaraizinho 546‑7, 550 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (Belo Horizonte) 168 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (Ouro Preto) 178, 13 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (São João del Rei) 187 Igreja de São Matias 563 Igreja Matriz de Santo Antônio 191 Igreja Nossa Senhora do Bonfim 403 Igreja NS do Bonfim 355, 471 Iguaçu Falls 11, 277‑87, 281, 11, 278‑9 Iguape 262 Ilha Anchieta 256 Ilha Comprida 262 Ilha de Areia Vermelha 514 Ilha de Itaparica 420 Ilha de Marajó 587‑91 J jacana 626 Jacumã 513 jaguars 377, 625, 2, 376‑7 Jamaraquá 596 jangadas472, 476 Japaratinga 481 Jardim Botânico Adolpho Ducke 607 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro) 56‑60, 95‑6, 104‑5, 56 Jardins 228, 236‑7, 239‑44, 246‑8 Jericoacoara 18, 547‑56, 550, 18, 550 Joanes 588 João Pessoa 514‑19, 515, 516 jogging 78 Joinville 300‑3, 301, 306 jungle lodges 44, 618 jungle trips 15, 607, 610, 615‑18, 640, 15, see also boat cruises, riverboat trips K kayaking 42 Amazon, the 586, 597, 633, 636 Bahia 459, 463 Espírito Santo 211 Mato Grosso do Sul 393 Paraná 271 Rio de Janeiro state 132 kiosks 97 kitesurfing 530, 544, 546, 548 L Lago Tarapoto 638 Lago Verde 597 Lagoa 56‑60, 95‑6, 104‑5 Lagoa Betánia 565 Lagoa da Conceição 296‑9 Lagoa das Araras 372 Lagoa de Conceicão 297 Lagoa de Guaraíras 525 Lagoa do Peri 299‑300 Lagoa Gaivota 565 Lagoa Guajiru 565 Lagoa Misteriosa 393 Lagoa Sete Mulheres 565 Lagoa Tropical 565 Lagoinha 538 Lagoinha do Leste 300 Lajedo da Pai Mateus 517 Lajedo de Soledade 517 landscape 691‑3 language 20, 303, 717‑23 courses 233, 408 place names 151 surfing 42 Lapa 71, 75, 88‑119, 102, 108, 116, 72‑3 Laranjeiras 471 Last of the Tribe, The 639 Lavras Novas 185 Leblon 83‑5, 93‑5, 104, 112‑13, 54‑5 legal matters 706 Leme 60, 85‑6, 96‑8, 105‑6, 113‑16 Lençóis 457‑62, 458 Lençóis Maranhenses 17, 565-8, 17 lesbian travelers 705 Florianópolis 294 Rio de Janeiro 105 Salvador 417 São Paulo 247 Leticia (Colombia) 636‑8, 637 Liberdade 227‑8 lifestyle 675‑6 literature 441, 686 festivals 133 7 29 Litoral Gaúcho 330‑2 Litoral Paulista 255‑62 Little Hawaii 439 live music, see music Luz 227 M macaws 626, 23, 626-7, 697 Maceió 472‑8, 474‑5 Maguarí 596 malaria 705 manatees 628, 628-9 Manaus 606‑14, 608, 616 Mangue Seco 430‑1, 467 maps 706 Maracanã stadium 75, 112, 114-5, 114‑15 Maragogi 482 Maranhão 48, 531, 557‑68, 532‑3 accommodations 531 climate 531 food 531 highlights 532, 532‑3 travel seasons 531 Marechal Deodoro 479‑82 margays 625, 624 Mariana 183‑4, 198 Marimbus 463 Maringá 138‑40 markets Alagoas 477, 479 Amazon, the 576, 652, 653 Bahia 405, 419, 459 Ceará 541 Maranhão 559 Mato Grosso do Sul 383 Minas Gerais 200 Rio de Janeiro 76‑7, 100 São Paulo city 223 São Paulo state 251 Sergipe 467 Maromba 138‑40 maté 322 Mato Grosso 47, 361, 363‑73, 362 accommodations 361 climate 361 food 361 highlights 362, 362 travel seasons 361 Mato Grosso do Sul 47, 361, 381‑96, 362 accommodations 361 climate 361 food 361 highlights 362, 362 travel seasons 361 Mauá 138‑40 measures 704 Memorial do Imigrante 236 Memorial Minas Gerais – Vale 167 Mendes, Chico 655, 656 Mercado Municipal 223 Micareta 457 milagres 470 Milho Verde 203‑14 Minas da Passagem 184 Minas Gerais 46, 162, 163‑208, 164‑5, 198-9 accommodations 162 climate 162 food 162, 170 highlights 164‑5, 164‑5 travel seasons 162 Mineirão & Museu Brasileiro de Futebol 168 Minhocão 226 Mirante de Geodésia 369 Mirante do Morro do Espia 262 Mirante dos Golfinhos 508 mission sites 318-19, 631 mobile phones 20, 709‑10 Moema 233 money 20, 21, 285, 706‑7 monkeys 205, 462, 695, 625, 623 Monte Alegre 600 Morretes 270‑1 Morro da Careca 520 Morro da Cruz 148 Morro da Igreja 311 Morro de São Paulo 431‑4 Morro do Pai Inácio 463 Morro do Pico 504, 506 Morro dos Pireneus 355 Morumbi 233 Mosteiro São Bento 229 motorcycle travel to/from Brazil 713 within Brazil 714‑15 mountain biking Amazon, the 597 Bahia 459 Paraná 271 Rio de Janeiro state 132 São Paulo state 238 mountains, see also climbing, hiking Agulhas Negras 138 Cidade de Pedra 370 Morro da Igreja 311 Morro do Castelo 464 Morro do Pai Inácio 460, 463 Morro do Pico 504, 506 Mt Roraima 644 Pão de Açúcar 11, 61, 141, 10‑11 Pico da Bandeira 207-8 Pico da Caledônia 148-9 I N D E X I – M Ilha de Paquetá 70 Ilha de Santa Catarina 289‑300, 290 Ilha de São Francisco 298 Ilha do Amor 597 Ilha do Cardoso 254 Ilha do Mel 273‑7, 274 Ilha do Sol 621 Ilha dos Aquários 448 Ilha Grande 15, 121, 124‑8, 155, 124, 15 Ilhabela 259‑62 Ilhéus 440‑4, 442‑3 Imbassaí 430 immigration 710, 711 indigenous groups 454, 639, 642 indigenous people 664, 663, 674, 675 Instituto de Arte Contem‑ porânea Inhotim 175 insurance 706 internet access 706 internet resources 21 airlines 713 Ipanema 51, 56, 83‑5, 89‑93, 102‑4, 112‑13, 54‑5, 4, 58‑9 Iriri 215 Itacaré 437‑40 Itacarezinho 437 Itaím Bibi 233 Itaipu Dam 287 Itatiaia 136‑41, 137 Itaúnas 211‑13 itineraries 28‑33, 28-33 7 30 I N D E X M – P Pico da Cristal 207 Pico do Calçado 207 Pico do Papagaio 124 Pico do Sol 206 Mt Roraima 644 Muhpan 387 multiculturalism 674‑5 Mundaú 538 muriqui 205 museums, see also galleries Hotel Globo 515 Instituto de Arte Contemporânea Inhotim 175 Memorial Minas Gerais – Vale 167 Mineirão & Museu Brasileiro de Futebol 168 Muhpan 387 Museu Afro‑Brasil 232 Museu das Bandeiras 351 Museu das Cavalhadas 354 Museu das Culturas Dom Bosco 382 Museu de Arte de São Paulo 228 Museu do Divino 353 Museu Histórico de Santa Catarina 291 Museu Histórico Nacional 69 Museu Imperial 141‑2 Museu Nacional 76, 338 Museu Nacional da Imigração e Colonização 300 Museu Náutico da Bahia 407 Museu Oscar Niemeyer 265 Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand 490 Pinacoteca do Estado 227 music 91, 108‑12, 503, 677‑81, 91, 90-1 festivals 202, 216, 234, 417, 515, 539, 609 Recife & Olinda 495 music festivals Diamantina 202 Domingos Martins 216 Fortaleza 539 João Pessoa 515 Laranjeiras 471 Manaus 609-10 São Paulo 234 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 N Nascente Azul 393 Natal 519‑25, 521, 522 national parks & reserves 699, see also parks & gardens Arquipélago Mariuá 620 Estação Biológica de Caratinga 205 Horto Florestal State Park 238 Jalapão State Park 605 Mamirauá Sustainable Development Reserve 632 Parque Estadual da Guarita 330 Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul 216 Parque Estadual da Serra do Papagaio 197 Parque Estadual da Serra dos Pirineus 355 Parque Estadual de Itaúnas 211 Parque Estadual do Alto do Ribeira 260 Parque Estadual Serra do Intendente 206 Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina 16, 462‑4, 16, 23 Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimarães 370‑1, 698 Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Veadeiros 357‑9 Parque Nacional da Serra da Bocaina 128 Parque Nacional da Serra da Capivara 555 Parque Nacional da Serra do Cipó 204‑6 Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos 145 Parque Nacional da Serra Geral 328 Parque Nacional da Tijuca 79 Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra 328 Parque Nacional de Caparaó 207‑8 Parque Nacional de Monte Pascoal 455 Parque Nacional de São Joaquim 311 Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades 554 Parque Nacional de Ubajara 542 Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil) 278‑9, 285 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia 136‑8 Parque Nacional do Jaú 622 Parque Nacional do Lençóis Maranhenses 17, 17 Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense 373 Parque Nacional do Superagüi 276 Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses 565‑8 Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina) 278, 285-7 Parque Nacional Marinho de Abrolhos 456‑7 Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha 504 Parque Natural do Caraça 206‑7 Parque Unipraias 308 Regua Nature Reserve 150 Reserva Natural Vale 209 Reserva Xixuaú‑Xipariná 622 Santuário Ecológico de Pipa 525 Serra do Aracá State Park 620 Neópolis 480 New Year’s Eve (Reveillon) 27, 83, 234, 409‑13 newspapers 704 Niemeyer, Oscar 14, 234, 265, 340-1 Niterói 70 Nova Friburgo 148‑51, 149 Nova Trento 306 Novo Airão 618‑19 numbers 721 O Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand 490 Oktoberfest 27, 306‑7, 307 Olinda 18, 498‑503, 500, 18 Olivença 444‑5 Olodum 418 Olympic games 661 opening hours 707 otter 628, 628 Ouro Preto 13, 175‑83, 198, 176‑7, 13, 26, 199 P Paço do Frevo 487 paddleboarding 42, 296 Amazon, the 599 Mato Grosso do Sul 393 Paraná 275 Rio de Janeiro state 132 Pajuçara 477 Palace Hotel 412 Palácio da Alvorada 343, 341 Palácio do Itamaraty 339 Palácio do Planalto 339‑42 Palmas 601‑4, 602, 604 Palmeiras 463 Pantanal, the 13, 373‑81, 374, 13, 23, 376‑7, 700 accommodations 380‑2 climate 375 food 375 geography 375 health 378 planning 375‑8 tours 378‑80 Pântano do Sul 300 Pão de Açúcar 11, 61, 141, 10‑11 Papagaio Island 276 Pará 573‑601 Paracuru 538 paragliding see gliding Paraíba 48, 483, 513‑18, 484‑5 accommodations 483 climate 483 food 483 highlights 484‑5, 484‑5 transportation 486 travel seasons 483 Paraná 46, 263‑87, 264 accommodations 263 climate 263 food 263 highlights 264, 264 travel seasons 263 Paranaguá 271‑3, 272 Paranapiacaba 252 Paraty 19, 128‑35, 155, 129, 130‑1, 2, 19, 154‑5 Parintins 615, 4, 26 parks & gardens, see also national parks & reserves Bom Jardim da Serra 311 Instituto Reserva Kautsky 216 Jardim Botânico Adolpho Ducke 607 Paraná 265, 268, 270 Parque da Luz 227 Parque das Águas 195‑6 Parque do Ibirapuera 229‑32, 234 Parque dos Falcões 467 Parque Moscoso 209 Parque Municipal (Belo Horizonte) 167 passports 710, 711 Pataxó people 454 Paulista Coast 255‑62 Pedra Azul 216‑17 Pedra do Baú 238 Pedra do Segredo 328 Pelé 670, 682, 684 Pelourinho 402-5, 12 Penedo 140‑1, 479‑82 Penha 298 Pernambuco 48, 483, 486‑513, 484‑5 accommodations 483 climate 483 food 483 highlights 484‑5, 484‑5 transportation 486 travel seasons 483 PETAR 260 Petrópolis 141‑5, 142‑3 Piaçabuçu 477 Piauí 48, 554‑5, 532-3 Pico da Bandeira 207 Pico da Cristal 207 Pico do Calçado 207 Pico do Sol 206 Pinacoteca do Estado 227 Pinheiros 232‑3, 237‑8, 245, 248‑50 Pinto Bandeira 323 Pipa 525‑9 piranha 628 pirarucú 628 Pirenópolis 353‑7, 354 Piri 353‑7 pizza 242‑3, 242‑3 planning Brazil’s regions 45‑8 calendar of events 25‑7 Carnaval 25, 34‑9, 14, 18, 37 children, travel with 43‑4, 85 itineraries 28‑33 Pantanal, the 375, 378 travel seasons 25‑7 plants 698‑9 Poconé 372‑3 politics 660‑1 Pomerode 306, 307 Ponta de Castelhanos 434 Ponta de Cururú 597 Ponta Grossa 544, 550‑1 Ponta Porã 396 Pontal de Coruripe 478 population 661, 675 pororoca 578 Portão do Inferno 369 Porto Alegre 316‑21, 317 Porto Belo 298 Porto de Galinhas 496 Porto de Pedras 481 Porto Seguro 445‑8, 446 Porto Velho 646‑9, 647 Portuguese 717‑23 Pousada Santuário do Caraça 207 Praça da Matriz 563 Praça da República 226‑7 Praça da Sé 223‑6, 403 Praça Mauá 68‑71, 87‑8 Praia Barra Velha 589 Praia Brava 295 Praia da Armação 299 Praia da Cacimba do Padre 510 Praia da Caixa d’Água 586 Praia da Joaquina 296, 19 Praia da Lagoinha 295 Praia da Lua 608 Praia da Pipa 525‑9, 31 Praia da Princesa 586 Praia da Trindade 135 Praia de Araruna 589 Praia de Calhau 561 Praia de São Marcos 561 Praia do Espelho 452 Praia do Forte 428‑30 Praia do Francês 478‑9 Praia do Futuro 538 Praia do Leão 505 Praia do Moçambique 295 Praia do Pesqueiro 589 Praia do Rosa 312‑13 Praia do Santinho 295 Praia dos Carneiros 497 Praia dos Castelhanos 259 Praia dos Ingleses 295 Praia dos Naufragados 299 Praia dos Ossos 160, 154 Praia Garrote 590 Praia Grande 330, 589, 620 Praia Jabaquara 259 Praia Lopes Mendes 124 Praia Mole 296 Praia Mucugê 449 Praia Ponta d’Areia 561 Praias Espelho and Curuípe 449 Praia Taipu de Fora 436 Prainha 437 Princesa Isabel 669 Prophets, The 185, 198 public holidays 707 Puerto Iguazú (Argentina) 286 Puerto Nariño (Colombia) 638‑40 Q Quebra Frascos 146 R rafting 644 rainforest 692‑3 Ramalho, Elba 453 rappelling 392 Recanto Ecológico Lagoa Azul 372 Recife 18, 487‑98, 488‑9, 492, 37 Recife de Fora 449 Recôncavo 422‑5, 408 Redonda 546 Região dos Lagos 151 Regua Nature Reserve 150 religion 426-7, 661 Resende 437 Reserva Xixuaú‑Xipariná 622 reserves, see national parks & reserves restaurants 690, see also food, individual locations Reveillon 27, 234 Ribeira 437 Ribeirão da Ilha 299 Rio Arapiuns 598 Rio Branco 652‑5, 653 Rio Claro 368 Rio da Prata 393 Rio de Janeiro 11, 45, 50‑119, 52‑3, 10‑11, 37, 58‑9, 90‑1 accommodations 83‑9 activities 78‑80 Barra da Tijuca 77‑8 Botafogo 60, 86, 98‑9, 106‑7, 116, 66‑7 Catete 65, 68, 66‑7 Centro 87‑8, 99‑101, 107‑8, 116, 72‑3 children, travel with 85 Cinelândia 71, 72‑3 climate 50 Copacabana 60, 85‑6, 96‑8, 105‑6, 113‑16, 62‑3, 90-1 Cosme Velho 64‑5 courses 80, 81 drinking 50, 102‑8 emergencies 117 entertainment 108‑12 festivals 83 Flamengo 61, 64, 86‑7, 99, 107, 116, 66‑7 food 50, 89‑102 Gávea 56‑7, 60, 85, 95‑6, 104‑5, 54‑5 Glória 65, 68, 72‑3 highlights 52‑3, 52‑3 history 51 Humaitá 66-7 7 31 I N D E X P – R Parque Siqueira Campos 228 Rio de Janeiro 57, 60, 64, 76, 77, 56 Santa Catarina 303 Parque do Ibirapuera 229, 232, 234 Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul 216 Parque Estadual de Itaúnas 211 Parque Estadual de Vila Velha 268 Parque Estadual do Alto do Ribeira 260 Parque Estadual do Jalapão 605 Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina 16, 462‑4, 16, 23 Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimarães 370‑1, 698 Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Veadeiros 357‑9 Parque Nacional da Serra da Bocaina 128 Parque Nacional da Serra da Capivara 555 Parque Nacional da Serra do Cipó 204‑6 Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos 145 Parque Nacional da Tijuca 79 Parque Nacional de Caparaó 207‑8 Parque Nacional de Monte Pascoal 455 Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades 554 Parque Nacional de Ubajara 542 Parque Nacional do Iguaçu 278‑9, 285 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia 136‑8 Parque Nacional do Jaú 622 Parque Nacional do Lençóis Maranhenses 17, 565‑8, 17 Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense 373 Parque Nacional do Superagüi 276 Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina) 278, 285‑7 Parque Nacional Marinho de Abrolhos 456‑7 Parque Natural do Caraça 206‑7 Parque Unipraias 308 7 32 I N D E X R – S internet resources 117 Ipanema 51, 56, 83‑5, 89‑93, 102‑4, 112‑13, 54‑5, 4, 58-9 Jardim Botânico 56-7, 60, 95‑6, 104‑5, 56 Lagoa 56‑60, 95‑6, 104‑5 Lapa 71, 75, 88‑9, 102, 108, 116, 72‑3 Leblon 83‑5, 93‑5, 104, 112‑13, 54‑5 Leme 60, 85‑6, 96‑8, 105‑6, 113‑16 Maracanã 76-7 media 117 medical services 117 money 117 nightlife 50, 102‑8 Praça Mauá 87‑8 safety 116 Santa Teresa 75, 88‑9, 101‑2, 108, 116, 72‑3 São Cristóvão 76-7 shopping 112‑19 sights 51‑78 tourist information 117 tours 81‑3 transportation 117‑19 travel seasons 50 Urca 60‑1, 86, 98‑9, 106‑7, 116 walking tours 82, 82 Zona Norte 75‑7 Rio de Janeiro state 45, 120‑61, 122‑3 accommodations 126 beaches 120 climate 120 food 120 highlights 122‑3, 122‑3 transportation 121 travel seasons 120 Rio dos Peixes 368 Rio Grande 331‑2 Rio Grande do Norte 48, 483, 519‑30, 484‑5 accommodations 483 climate 483 food 483 highlights 484‑5, 484‑5 transportation 486 travel seasons 483 Rio Grande do Sul 47, 314‑32, 315 accommodations 314 climate 314 food 314 highlights 315, 315 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 transportation 315 travel seasons 314 Rio Javari 640 Rio Mutaca 368 Rio Negro basin 618‑22 Rio São Francisco 469 Rio Triste 372 Rio Vermelho 416 riverboat travel 584‑5, 607, 619, 584-5, see also boat cruises road rules 715 robbery 708 rock climbing, see climbing rock paintings 517 Rondônia 639, 646‑51 Roraima 640‑5 Rota Missões 318 Rousseff, Dilma 673 rubber plantations 598 S Sabará 172 Saco de Mamanguá 135‑6 safety 707‑8 Amazon, the 581, 587, 597 stingrays 597, 628 surfing 495 Salto Aponwao 644 Salvador 12, 399‑422, 400, 404‑5, 414, 5, 7, 12, 31 accommodations 412‑15 beaches 407 courses 407‑8 drinking 417 emergencies 419 entertainment 417‑19 festivals 408‑9 food 415‑17 history 401 medical services 419 nightlife 417 safety 420 shopping 419 sights 401‑7 tourist information 420 tours 408 transportation 420-2 Salvaterra 589 samba 677‑8, 91, 58, see also Carnaval courses 80 Rio de Janeiro 109 São Paulo 250 schools 36, 38, 110, 677 Sambódromo 77 Santa Bárbara d’Oeste 241 Santa Catarina 19, 46, 288‑313, 289, 19 Santa Elena de Uairén (Venezuela) 643‑6 Santa Teresa 75, 88‑119, 101‑2, 108, 116, 72‑3 Santarém 591‑5, 592, 595 Santo Amaro 424‑5, 565 Santo Ângelo 319 Santo Antônio de Lisboa 294 Santos 254 Santuário Dom Bosco 338 São Cristóvão 471‑2 São Domingo 596 São Félix 422‑4 São Gabriel da Cachoeira 621‑2 São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras 203‑17 São João Batista 319 São João del Rei 187‑90, 198, 188 São Joaquim 311 São Jorge 360 São Lourenço Mártir 319 São Luís 557‑64, 558, 560 São Miguel do Gostoso 529‑30 São Miguel dos Milagres 481 São Nicolau 319 São Paulo 16, 219‑55, 222‑3, 224‑5, 230‑1, 16 accommodations 234, 236‑8 Anhangabaú 226 Avenida Paulista 228‑9, 236‑7, 239‑44, 246‑8, 230-1 Baixo Augusta 244‑5, 248 Barra Funda 248 courses 233 drinking 246‑50 entertainment 250 festivals 233‑6 food 238‑46, 242-3 free attractions 229 Higienópolis 228 history 219‑22 information 252 Jardins 228, 236‑7, 239‑44, 246‑8, 230-1 Liberdade 227‑8 Luz 227 nightlife 16, 246-50 Parque do Ibirapuera 229‑32 Pinheiros 232‑3, 237‑8, 245, 248‑50 Praça da República 226‑7 Praça da Sé 223‑6 shopping 250‑1 sights 222‑33 tours 233 transportation 253-8 Triângulo 226 Vila Madalena 232‑3, 237‑8, 245, 248‑50, 249 walking tours 229, 235, 235 São Paulo state 46, 218‑62, 220‑1 accommodations 218 climate 218 food 218 highlights 220‑1, 220‑1 transportation 218, 219 São Sebastião 258‑9 São Thomé das Letras 196 Saquarema 151‑2, 155, 154 scams 708 scenic flights 83, 279 scenic railways 22, 195, 252, 270 scenic routes 148, 477 Science, Chico 489 sculpture 185, 422 Semana Santa 25, 180, 26 Rio de Janeiro state 132‑3 Sergipe 48, 465‑72, 466 accommodations 465 climate 465 highlights 466, 466 travel seasons 465 transportation 467 Serra da Capivara 517 Serra dos Órgãos 146 Serra Gaúcha 321‑30 Serra Geral 311 Serra Verde Express 270 Serro 203‑4 sertão 517 shopping 708 language 720 Sítio Arqueológico São Miguel Arcanjo 319 Sítio do Conde 430 slavery 402, 664‑5, 669 sloths 607, 625, 694, 624‑5 snakes 391, 630 snorkeling 40‑1, see also diving Bahia 428, 447 Fernando de Noronha 505, 507, 510 Mato Grosso 371, 372 Mato Grosso do Sul 391, 393 soccer, see football Soure 589‑91 spiders 630 sports, see also individual sports festivals 513 São Paulo 250 733 Tiririca 437 Tocantins 601‑5 toilets 709 Torres 330‑1 toucans 259, 276, 626, 697-8, 13, 279, 696 tourist information 709 tours 708 train travel 716, see also scenic railways Trancoso 451‑3 Transpantaneira 373, 377, 376‑7 transportation to/from Brazil 711‑13 transportation within Brazil 713‑16 Trapiche 471 Travessa do Comércio 71 Triângulo 226 Triple Frontier, the 634‑40, 635 turtles 209, 256, 429, 505, 638 TV 704 TV Tower 338 typhoid 705 T vacations 707 Vale da Lua 359 Vale do Amanhecer 346 Vale do Capão 463 Vale do Matutu 197 Vale do Paciéncia 368‑9 Vale do Patí 464 Vale do Rio Claro 369 Vale do Salgadeira 368 Vale do Vai‑Quem‑Quer 605 Vale dos Vinhedos 326‑7, 326‑7 Vale Europeu 306‑7, 306‑7 Valença 435 Vassouras 145‑6 Vermelha 256 Vila do Abraão 121, 124‑8, 127 Vila do Trinta 504 Vila Ilhabela 259 Vila Madalena 232‑3, 237‑8, 245, 248‑50, 249 Vila Olímpia 233 Tabatinga 634‑6 Tabuleiro 206 Tamandaré 496 tapirs 625, 624 Taquarussú 604‑5 tarantula 630 taxis 348, 716 Teatro Amazonas 606 Tefé 622, 631‑2 telephone services 20, 708‑9 Templo da Boa Vontade 346 Teresópolis 146‑8, 147 Terra Indígena Yanomami 642 Terreiro de Jesus 402 Theatro Municipal 226 time 20, 709 language 720 tipping 707 Tiradentes 16, 190‑5, 198, 191, 16, 198‑9 U Ubatuba 255‑8 Ubu 215 Urca 60‑1, 86, 98‑9, 106‑7, 116 Urubici 311 V Vila Rosa 440 Vila Velha 268 visas 20, 277, 643‑4, 710 Visconde de Mauá 138‑40 Vitória 208‑11 volunteering 710 W walking, see hiking walking tours Rio de Janeiro 81-82, 82 São Paulo 234-5, 235 water 705‑6 water parks 351, 449 waterfalls 278‑9 Amazon, the 593, 599, 605, 617, 620, 644 Bahia 463, 464, 23 Goiás 355, 359 Iguaçu Falls 11, 277‑87, 281, 11, 278‑9 Mato Grosso 370, 372 Mato Grosso do Sul 393 Minas Gerais 185, 197, 200, 204, 206 Paraná 285 Rio de Janeiro state 136, 139, 140‑1, 148 Rio Grande do Sul 328, 329, 330 São Paulo state 259 waterslides 136 weather 25‑7 websites 21 weights 704 whales 456, 695 whale-watching 312 wi‑fi 706 wildlife 623‑30, 693‑9, 691, see also individual species wildlife reserves 205, 209, 355, 429, see also zoos wildlife‑watching 22, 41, 455, 633, 655, see also individual species, wolf watching Amazon, the 586, 605 Bahia 462 Pantanal, the 373 Paraná 280 Rio de Janeiro state 152 windsurfing 42, 550 Ceará 546, 549 Rio Grande do Norte 530 wineries 323, 326-7, 326‑7 wolf-watching 204, 207, 343 women in Brazil 676 women travelers 710 women’s health 705 World Cup 115, 684 World Heritage sites Basílica do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos 185 Brasília 47, 333, 335‑49, 334, 336‑7, 344, 340‑1 Cidade de Goiás 350-3, 352 Diamantina 198, 200‑3, 201 Fernando de Noronha 12, 503‑13, 508‑9, 12, 506‑7 Iguaçu Falls 11, 277-87, 278-9, 281, 11, 278-9 Olinda 18, 498‑503, 500, 18 Ouro Preto 13, 175‑83, 198, 176‑7, 13, 26, 198, 199 Parque Nacional da Serra da Capivara 555 Parque Nacional do Jaú 622 Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense 373 Parque Nacional do Superagüi 276 Reserva Natural Vale 209 Salvador 12, 399‑422, 400, 404‑5, 414, 5, 7, 12, 31 São Cristóvão 471‑2 São Luís 557‑64, 558, 560 Serra da Capivara 517 Sítio Arqueológico São Miguel Arcanjo 319 X Xapuri 655‑7 Xingó 467 Y Yanomami land 621, 642 Yanomami people 642 yellow fever 705 Z Zika virus 705 zip‑lining 359, 636 Zona Norte 75‑7 zoos 591, 577-8, 606-7, see also wildlife reserves I N D E X S –Z stand‑up paddleboarding, see paddleboarding stingrays 597, 628 Sugarloaf 141 surfing 40, 42 Alagoas 478 Amazon, the 578 Bahia 437, 438, 439, 445 Ceará 549 festivals 151, 513 language 42 Paraná 273‑5 Pernambuco 505, 510 Rio de Janeiro 80 Rio de Janeiro state 153 Rio Grande do Sul 331 safety 495 Santa Catarina 296, 299 São Paulo state 254, 256 Suriname 712 swimming, see also beaches Amazon, the 593, 605, 609, 644 Bahia 460 Goiás 355, 359 Mato Grosso do Sul 391, 393 Minas Gerais 200, 208 Paraná 273‑5 Piauí 555 Rio de Janeiro state 136, 139, 148 Rio Grande do Sul 330 Santa Catarina 298 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 734 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkeling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Sleeping Camping Eating Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway/Subte station Taxi Train station/Railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Entertainment Shopping Shopping Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Swamp/Mangrove ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Anna Kaminski Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do Sul Anna has been traveling extensively around Latin America for the last 15 years, ever since she’d begun majoring in the turbulent history of the continent at university, and in Brazil for over a decade, drawn by the sheer diversity of the country, the lust for life of its people and the rodizios at their churrascaria restaurants. Having previously gone in search of big cats in various parts of the Amazon, she finds that the Pantanal trumps the lot: on this visit alone she had three jaguar sightings. Anna tweets at @ ACKaminski. Kevin Raub São Paulo State, Paraná, Santa Catarina, Rio Grande do Sul, Brasília & Goiás, Pernambuco, Paraíba & Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piauí & Maran hão Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil, where he has now traversed 21 of 26 Brazilian states in pursuit of caipirinha bliss. He was also LP’s man on the ground for the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil. This is Kevin’s 35th Lonely Planet guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad). OUR STORY A beat‑up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Rio de Janeiro City Regis first visited Brazil back in 2003, and he fell hard for Rio de Janeiro: its stunning landscapes, dynamic music scene, and the open and celebratory spirit of the cariocas. Since then he’s traveled all across the country, celebrating Carnaval in Bahia, Ouro Preto and Rio, watching wildlife in the Pan tanal, hunting for the perfect beach in Santa Catarina and traveling the length of the Brazilian Amazon. His writing has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, the Telegraph, on BBC.com and elsewhere. He is also the coordinating author of Lonely Planet’s Rio de Janeiro guide and South America on a Shoestring. He splits his time between New Orleans and the tropics. Regis also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival chapters. Gary Chandler The Amazon Gary has traveled and written about Latin America for two decades. He has contributed to over twenty guidebooks to the region, including El Salva dor, Honduras, Mexico, and Guatemala. He first covered the Amazon for Lonely Planet in 2004—this assignment marks his fifth time back. Gary was raised in a small California ski town, attended UC Berkeley and Columbia University, and now lives with his wife and fellow travel writer, Liza Prado, and their two children in Denver, Colorado. Gregor Clark Rio de Janeiro State, Minas Gerais & Espírito Santo Gregor’s love of all things Brazilian began with his first Portuguese class at age 19. In a quarter century of Brazilian travel, he’s visited virtually every state from the Amazon to the Uru guayan border. Highlights of this research trip include spotting wolves and mon keys with his two teenage daughters, climbing Papagaio and Mamanguá peaks, and writing by firelight on chilly Visconde de Mauá evenings. Gregor contributes regularly to Lonely Planet’s European and Latin American titles. He lives in Vermont (USA). Bridget Gleeson Bahia, Sergipe & Alagoas Based in Buenos Aires, Bridget is a travel writer and occasional photographer. She’s traveled all over South America for work and for pleasure, but Bahia is still one of her favorite places on the continent. This was her third time covering the region for Lonely Planet. OVER MORE PAG E WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the 10th edition – June 2016 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 770 2 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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