Alpine Club of Canada - Vancouver Section News

VOL
76
JUNE
2000
NO.6
Alpine Club of Canada - Vancouver Section News
Jane Weller will share her Bolivian adventures with us this meeting. Here she
is on top of Mt. Condoriri, approx. 6000m.
Alpine Club Executive
Chair
Secretary
Treasurer
Climbing
Membership
Liz Scremin
Tony Knight
Rob Brusse
Ian McGillivray
Tania Zulkoskey
921-2651
873-2276
224-0747
988-3618
878-5272
Conservation
Jane Weller
988-3618
Editor
Helen Habgood
Program
Paul Malon
Socials
Chris Bradley
Camps CoordinatorHenry Czenczek
Nat'l Club Rep
Fern Hietkamp
Promotions
Paul Dowell
984-6840
990-8229
985-6452
(250) 245-0776
872-4290
731-7204
FMCBC Rep
vacant
Special Projects:
Camps
Mike Thompson
Summer Camps
Tami Knight
Spring Camp
Margaret Hanson
Family Programs
Marilyn Noort
Tantulus Cabin
Ron Royston
Red Tit Hut Project:
Blair Mitten
534-8863
731-5975
736-6397
294-5784
921-8164(H)
687-2711(B)
922-0470
Membership Assistant: Sharon Folkes 731-7441
Program Assistant
Linda Bily
Webmaster
Jim Sibley
Archives
Irene Goldstone
Logisitics
Steve Koch
222-1577
738-1043
689-8737
874-2123
M E M B E R S H I P I N F O 878-5272
WEBSITE www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/vancouver
Youarecordiallyinvitedtoattend...
TheJuneSocial
...aneveningofmusicandpot-luckdesserts,
doorprizesandgoodcheer,
minimalannouncementsandasuperSouthAmerican-flavourslideshow,
theACC’sfinalflingbeforesummer!
Tuesday,June27at7:30pm
FloralHall,VanDusenGardens
W.37th&Oak,Vancouver
Avalanche Echoes
1
ANNOUNCEMENTS
CONRAD KAIN - BUGABOO HUT CHANGES...
Announced by B.C. Parks and The Alpine Club of Canada
The summer of 2000 will see an important addition to serving visitors to the Conrad Kain Hut in
the world famous Bugaboo Provincial Park, British Columbia. Hut users will now be able to make
reservations through The Alpine Club of Canada¹s (ACC) national office in Canmore, Alberta. In
the past, visitors had to carry a tent to the hut, not knowing whether they would find space or not.
The two campgrounds in Bugaboo Provincial Park will still be run on a first-come, first-served
basis.
THE AVALANCHE ECHOES is published
nine times per year by the Alpine Club of
Canada - Vancouver Section.
EDITOR:
Helen Habgood ph: 984-6840
e-mail: [email protected]
This newsletter is the official publication of
the Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Section. It keeps members informed on topics
of interest to mountaineers including activities within the club, equipment, techniques,
access, and environmental issues.
The club meets monthly, usually for a slide
presentation, at the Floral Hall in Van Dusen
Gardens, W 37th and Oak St., at 7:30 pm
on the fourth Tuesday of the month, except
in July, August and December.
ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP DUES
Vancouver Section:
Single
$41.00
Family
$57.00
Junior$21.00 (under 18)
For membership dues, renewals, and
changes of address, and booking huts,
contact the ACC national office directly:
P.O. Box 8040 Canmore, AB, T1W 2T8, fax
(403)678-3224, phone (403)678-3200, or
e-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/
vancouver
For detailed membership form including
upgrades, send SASE to ACC-Vancouver,
c/o FMCBC, 47 West Broadway, Vancouver BC V5Y 1P1.
SUBMISSIONS
We encourage submissions of writing, photography, drawings, etc. If possible, articles should be submitted by e-mail or on
3.5" diskette (about 500 words). Photos
and slides are always needed. Deadline for
submissions is the last day of the previous
month.
EDITORIAL POLICY
Suitability for publication is at the editor's
discretion within the guidelines of the Section Executive. Articles may be edited for
clarity or to fit the available space.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thanks to Hugh Hamilton Limited for use of
computer space and printers.
Avalanche Echoes 2
Fees are as follows:
Kain Hut - reserved space - $18 per person per night
Kain Hut - pay at the hut - $15 per person per night
Boulder and Applebea Campgrounds - $5 per person per night
For reservations or more information, call the ACC at (403) 678-3200, ext.1, fax us at (403) 6783224, e-mail us at [email protected] or check out our website at www.alpineclubofcanada.ca.
GOOD NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL OFFICE...
For the past several years, overnight users of the ACC huts in National Parks in BC and Alberta
have been required by Parks Canada to have a valid Backcountry Wilderness Pass. Until now,
this has meant that users of these huts have had to book their hut stay with the ACC, then
purchase their Wilderness Pass separately from Parks.
The ACC and Parks Canada have just signed an agreement whereby ACC hut users who so
choose can now purchase their Wilderness Pass directly rom the National Office of The Alpine
Club of Canada. This provides a new level of “one stop shopping” convenience for our hut users.
However, the ACC’s sale of Wilderness Passes has a significant additional benefit: as part of the
agreement, Parks will allocate 40% of all wildernessass money collected by the ACC to a special
new fund. This fund will be available to the ACC to finance on-going conservation and environmental
work at the Club’s National Park huts. The agreement will therefore result in significant financial
assistance to the ACC’s hut maintenance program over the coming years, and is seen by the Club
as a major milestone in its relationship with Parks Canada.
The ACC’s sale of Wilderness Passes works as follows:
1. Annual Wilderness Pass
- valid for 1 year
- ACC price to ACC members = $39, including GST ($3 less than the Parks Canada price).
- ACC price to non-members = $42, including GST (same price as Parks Canada).
2. Trip Wilderness Pass
- valid for 5 or more consecutive overnights
- will be sold to those making an ACC hut booking
- ACC price to members and non-members = $30, including GST (same price as Parks Canada).
3. Overnight Wilderness Pass
- valid for 1 overnight
- will be sold to those making an ACC hut booking
- ACC price to members and non-members = $6, including GST (same price as Parks Canada).
When you or your friends are planning to stay overnight at an ACC hut in a National Park, please
purchase your overnight or trip pass from the ACC. Anyone can purchase an annual wilderness
pass from the ACC. (Tel: 403-678-3200, ext. 1; Fax: 403-678-3224; email: [email protected]).
POT-LUCK DESSERTS NEEDED for the June Social! Contributions to the June Social (7:30pm
th
on June 27 ) would be very appreciated. Pies or cakes? Cookies? Fruit? Share your favourite
recipe or use the ACC’s taste buds to test out something new. It’s sure to be a fun time! Coffee
and tea will be provided as always. Many many thanks in advance.
CLASSIFIEDS
RAINIER ANYONE? I am looking for three to six people with mountaineering experience and
crevasse rescue experience, who are interested in climbing Mt Rainer during a long weekend (July
or September?). Please call Tania at 738-0696. You must have all necessary gear.
FOR SALE: New extra-large climbing harness - never been used; $40.00 Call Tania 738-0696.
HELP WANTED: BACKUP EDITOR. We need one or more people with a knowledge of Adobe
Pagemaker to fill in when the editor goes on vacation. If you are interested please call Liz Scremin
at 921-2651 or Helen Habgood at 984-6840.
Letter fr
om the Chair
from
by Liz Scremin
At the start of every season, I ponder the
Club’s trip schedule and with my handy
WCWC calendar near at hand, mentally
squeeze as many trips into the summer as
possible. Which trips are good warm-ups for
fitness? A natural progression technically?
Must-do classics? What’s offered on the long
weekends? What places and peaks have captured my imagination? Which trips would be
just plain fun?! Let’s see...
the Lions (Sept 24) await in all their majesty,
strong symbols of Vancouver. October? A
Thanksgiving trip to McGillivray Pass (Oct 79) rewards one with golden grassy hillsides
tipped with frost, set against crisp blue sky. Mt.
Rexford (July 16, Oct 14-15) is not to be
missed, a classic in the Chilliwack valley. Then
the Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker (Oct 21)
offers great ice climbing and dramatic scenery. So many choices and these are just a few!
more mystique.. a somewhat remote but
imposing hulk of a mountain.
Yes! This season’s trip schedule is filled
with possibilities. And this year, like every
year, I dream of precious places, of beauty and
solitude... Unfortunately, I’m not the only one.
The backcountry is getting crowded with more
and more traditional hikers and climbers, but
also with snowmobilers, mountain-bikers, motorcyclists, horse riders, heli-hikers and
ATVers. It’s true. I’ve encountered a dirtbiker in the Pasayten Wilderness, paragliders
on Mt. Slesse, mountain-bikers on the Helm
Creek trail and snowmobilers at Rainbow Lake.
Not all groups are compatible or sensitive to
the needs of others. What are we to do?
August? The Rogers Pass Camp (Jul 29Aug 4) would be fun. Plenty of Selkirk trails
to explore! The north ridge of Mt. Sir Donald
beckons. (Lightening storms and pure mindset
thwarted my previous two attempts.) The
climbing is easy, but the exposure is impressive! Summer can’t pass without a visit to the
Black Tusk Meadows and Garibaldi Lake
(Aug 16, 20, Sept 23-24). My favourite day
trip is the 25 kilometre crossover from
Cheakamus Lake to the Black Tusk Trail.
Pop up Panorama Ridge along the way for
spectacular views. You’ll really get in shape!
Come September... The Aspen-MarriottRohr Traverse (Sept 2-4) sounds intriguing,
linking up ridge systems and drainages. Then
The BC Trails Stewardship Forum was
held May 27 at UBC and many members of the
Alpine Club of Canada and Federation of
Mountain Clubs of BC. attended. An amazing
array of clubs and organizations were represented. There’s no doubt we’ve got to negotiate some method of sharing the backcountry,
but we’ve also got to say NO when incursions
of mechanized folk force us out of traditional
terrain or when mechanized access damages
the environment. A lot of time was spent that
day discussing our common goals and the
need for careful stewardship of the land.
Many people, particularly Pat Harrison, the
FMCBC’s Executive Director and Roger
Freeman, the Co-chair of the FMCBC’s Rec
and Con committee, pledged themselves to
continued meetings and negotiations. I was
impressed by their knowledge and dedication.
We must all get behind them.
So this summer, as you go into the wilderness, enjoy the precious places - the forests,
meadows, tarns and ridgetops. Savour each
vista, treasure each flower, but be watchful
that they are treated with respect. Share your
concern with others. If need be, write a letter
or two. Go and be good stewards of the land!
Take your pick from the ACC trip schedule
and have a wonderful summer!
Trip leaders, take notes! We'll be expecting lots of interesting trip reports for
the September "Echoes"! - ed.
103 CALLS FOR HELP!
103 Hikes in Southwestern BC - 5th Edition
The fifth edition of this classic guidebook is due to be released in the Spring of 2001. The bulk of the data-gathering will be done between
now and the Fall of 2000. As an experienced mountaineer, but new author, I can utilise every scrap of information and assistance that the
hiking/climbing community is willing to provide.
Here are a few specific questions to, hopefully, get your creative juices flowing:Are there any hikes in the 4th Edition that you feel should be definitely excluded from the next edition?
Are there hikes in the 4th Edition that should be included in the next edition, but require major revisions to the information?
Have you done any hikes that are not in the 4th Edition that you feel should be included in the next edition?
Do you have any photographs, taken on the hikes, that would make good black-and-white prints for possible inclusion in the next edition?
Do you have any general suggestions, for improvement to the guidebook, that are not hike-specific?
If you have any ideas/information/suggestions, you can send them by snail-mail, e-mail, fax; or phone me collect.
Jack Bryceland
47397 Extrom Rd., Chilliwack BC, V2R 4V1
home # 604-858-6601: fax 604-792-3479: e-mail [email protected]
ACC Year 2000 Grant Awards
The “Girls Kick Ass Alpine Climbing Camp”, organized by Tami Knight and fully subscribed by keen young women, was granted $1000
ACC Endowment Fund. Yeeehaw!!!
$1800 from the Jen Higgins Fund. was awarded to two adventurous young women who will undertake a four week canoe and mountaineering
trip down the Stikine River, from Telegraph Cove to Wrangell, Alaska, climbing in the North Sawback Range along the way. They want to raise
awareness that the Stikine area is under threat from resource development.
$1800 was also awarded to assist two young women on a self-supported 32 km traverse of the rugged and isolated alpine area surrounding
Cascade Inlet, BC. Access will be via a16 foot sailboat from Bella Coola.
For a complete list of grant awards, or information and application forms, please contact the ACC at [email protected], phone (403)
678-3200, ext. #112, or visit www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca.
Avalanche Echoes 3
Obituar y: Blanc
he Seligman 1905 - 2000
Blanche
SELIGMAN - Blanche passed away quietly, with her daughter attending at her side,
on April 28, 2000 at Burnaby General Hospital, age 95 years. She was born March 15,
1905 in Mullheim (Black Forest), Germany .
She was known to many as the little old
woman in colourful knickers heading UP Mount
Seymour on her touring skis . Pre war 1930’s
Blanche was a pioneer female mountaineer in
the European Alps in the German, Swiss and
Austrian Alps, with many solo climbs and
treks to her credit. From 1934 to 1939 she
found refuge in Northern Italy and the Dolomites became her climbing and skiing playground. After fleeing to England for the
duration of the war she made her way to
Canada in 1948. Finally finding a country that
was tolerant, free and full of mountains she
became a Canadian Citizen in 1953. She was
fluent in German, rench, Italian and English.
In the 1970’s, through classes at Langara
College, she added Spanish to her list of
languages. Then, with her little pack sack,
Blanche trekked through Spain every summer
until she was in her 80’s. She was a long
standing member of the Vancouver Section of
the Alpine Club of Canada.. As an active
member participating in many climbs, camps
and ski treks, one of Blanche’s proudest
moments was when she was selected to be
part of the Alpine Club of Canada’s 1967
Centennial Expedition to the Yukon.
Well in to her 80’s Blanche was a constant fixture on the many hiking trails of the
North Shore: Mount Seymour, Hollyburn,
Grouse Mountain as well as the Mount Baker
area. Never hesitating to tell people where to
go, she would often put rookie hikers on the
correct trail; frowning on hikers in running
shoes and suggesting the proper equipment to
wear.
When she became very old and too frail
for mountaineering, Blanche was still able to
enjoy her second passion: MUSIC. She was a
faithful concert subscriber to both the Vancouver Symphony and Vancouver Opera for
many years, sitting there in the second row
left orchestra where she could be close to the
musicians and conductor.
PERSONALITIES
A warm welcome home to our Editor, Helen Habgood, who enjoyed
three weeks in May exploring the Tuscan and Roman countryside by
bicycle. We hear she consumed lots of gelati but also burned lots of
calories peddling up the hills!
Congratulations to Fern Hietkamp, our National Club Rep! Fern, along
with Monica Bittel of the BCMC and past Editor Deanne Mould (now with
the ACC - Okanagan Section), has just completed the design, layout,
text and maps for a new FMCBC brochure, entitled 'The NootkaTrail'. We
hear it's a very special place along BC's wet westcoast. The brochure is
very attractive and will be well received.
What a surprise! Climbing Coordinator, Ian McGillivray, recently found a
stone arrowhead in a load of soil delivered to his house. He's guessing it's
from a native fishing spear and atleast 150 years old. Sounds special!
Congratulation to our Program Assistant, Linda Bily, on being accepted
to the very first Marmot/ACC Women's Mountaineering Course, to be
held this summer at Rogers Pass. Have a terrific time!
Many thanks to Ron Eckert, Jack Bryceland, Lesley Bohm and Peter
Woodsworth for representing the ACC and FMCBC at the BC Trails
Stewardship Forum held at UBC May 27.
Her love of the mountains, hiking and
skiing (ski touring not ‘Chair Skiing’) has
been passed on to her family, friends and
fellow hikers. Her spirit, strength and dogged
determination stand alone and have taken her
to many a spectacular summit. We now like to
think of her resting in a much higher place
looking down on all those peaks and valleys
she wandered in and loved so dearly.
She is survived by her daughter Ariane
Bruendl ( husband Gary ) of West Vancouver;
her grandson Marc Bruendl ( wife Roxanne)
and great grandchildren Erik and Mikayla of
Pitt Meadows; niece Liz Chilton of Amherst,
Mass. and nephew Helmut Seaman of Madison, Wis.
No funeral by her request. In lieu of
flowers, the family requests that donations be
made in Blanche’s name to the” Karen Kogler
Memorial Scholarship Fund” at the University College of The Cariboo, Adventure Travel
Guide Programs Department, Box 3010,
Kamloops, B. C. V2C 5N3.
TRAILPAQ - A New Resource
For Trails Information! Starting
June 1st, 2000, log onto
www.TrailPAQ.com for comprehensive information on trails all
across Canada - heritage trails, hiking trails,
national trails and local trails.
TrailPAQ is a federal ‘millennium’ project,
brought about by Go for Green and Compaq
Canada Inc. While the website is up and
running, teams in each province are working
hard to expand the trails inventory. They’re just
getting started in BC. Still the goal is 2000
trails in 2000!
The website features an electronic newsletter
- the PathFINDER, a bulletin board to post
questions and discuss trips and trail-related
issues, a trail group registry, a bibliography of
trail documents, a products listing, fact sheets
on trail issues such as liability and funding, and
more! Check it out!
It’s official... the Grouse Grind is open for the season! That means
Marlene Ford, when not on a photoshoot, is busy once more patrolling
Grouse Mountain to increase public safety. Happy trails, Marlene!
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS!
A warm welcome to... Will Keats-Osborn, Jeffrey Yau, Volk Van Hove,
Jesse Mason, Isabel Budke, Toby Froschauer, Rick Van Heyst and Nicola
Gunkel... all new members since April 1st this year! We encourage you to
take full advantage of all the trips, workshops, camps, slideshows and
other services that the Club has to offer. Enjoy!
Avalanche Echoes 4
CORRECTION
Beverley Cayley, in the article about the
Cayley collection in the April issue, was incorrectly refered to as a woman. The last sentence
should have read: "Mt. Cayley, north of Squamish, first ascended in July, 1928, was named in his
memory."
Spring 2000 Na
tional Boar
d Meeting R
e por t
National
Board
Re
by Fern Hietkamp, ACC Vancouver Section
National Club Rep.
The recent ACC Board of Directors meeting
started off informally in fine style with a rendezvous at the Drake Pub in Canmore on the
evening of May 5th. Tall tales of climbing and
other outdoor adventures were told over beer
and nachos till late in the evening. A few of us
had climbed a small peak near Canmore that
day, and so were slipping under the table by the
end of the evening (it wasn’t the beer, honest).
We were up early the next day to begin the 1.5
day meeting that happens twice a year with
and the ACC National Executive. Fern
Hietkamp, Section Rep, and Manrico Scremin,
Secretary on the National Executive, attended
from Vancouver ACC. Following is a summary of the highlights of the meeting:
Section Reports were presented by the
following sections: Calgary, Rocky Mountain,
Okanagan, Ottawa, Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver Island, St. Boniface, Edmonton, Jasper/Hinton, Saskatchewan, Whistler, Central
Alberta, Prince George, Thunder Bay, Vancouver. The sections are active and growing.
Some common concerns included a need to
increase the numbers of the core group of
volunteers, and initiatives to attract new members were described. These included a membership survey to determine what services the
members really want; and offering more beginner/novice level trips or courses.
A Comprehensive Access and Environment Policy has been developed which outlines the ACC’s commitment to advocate and
promote freedom of mountaineering access
within Canada with sensitivity to issues affecting access, including environmental and legal
considerations. Sections have contributed to
the development of the policy; it now needs to
be reviewed by sections before being passed at
the next Board meeting. A draft copy may be
viewed at: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/
vancouver; please direct comments to Fern
Hietkamp, National Club Representative. This
policy will enable the National Club to coordinate the Club’s responses to access and environmental issues.
Services: The ACC has a representative,
Helmut Microys, on the Union of International
Alpine Associations (UIAA) Material Commission, which is responsible for establishing
standards for mountaineering equipment and
issuing updates on a continual basis. Members
of this committee act as a bridge between the
UIAA and manufacturers in each country.
Helmut explained the changes in mountaineering equipment which have happened to date
with the introduction of the European stand-
ards.
The
UIAA
website
(www.mountaineering.org) has contributed
significantly to facilitating communication .
Activities: Cam Roe (Vice President of
Activities) noted that a large number of sections are offering training and section organized camps. National Activities are doing well
this year; overall inquiries have increased
from last year. Plans for summer camps are
going well; the GMC was sold out by the end
of January. Cam noted that there is not
enough interest to date in the Introductory
Youth Camp and circulated information packages and asked the sections to assist by
encouraging attendance locally. Cam summarized the progress to date with the Canadian Centre for Mountaineering (CCM) and
reviewed plans to develop a syllabus with the
assistance of Karl Klassen, President of the
ACMG.
Endowment Fund Grants criteria were reviewed (for list of criteria see the ACC Website:
www.alpineclubofcanada.ca) and modified to
add that “preference shall be given to projects
of direct benefit to the Club". The total funding
available each year (this year $12,500) is the
interest on the principle of the Endowment
Fund. Funding was given this year to: Chic
Scott, for his upcoming presentation of slide
shows in Britain; to the Manitoba Section for
Climbing Instructor Courses and Cliff Rescue
Training; to a club member led expedition to
Mt. Asgard; to the Planned Giving Startup
Program; to the Canadian Centre for Mountaineering; to the Vancouver Section’s Girls
Kick Ass Camp.
Environment Fund Grants were given to
the following projects this year (for criteria
see ACC Website): to the Toronto Section for
a composting toilet at Keene Farm (climbing
area); to Denis Dutreau for Peregrine Falcon
cliff use and education; to the Thunder Bay
Naturalist Club for Peregrine Falcon follow-up
study; to the ACC/AAC initiative for a composting toilet at the Cirque of the
Unclimbables.
has been working with BC Parks to arrange
the ACC handling of bookings of the Conrad
Kain Hut in the Bugaboos on a one-year trial
basis.
Honorary Member status will be awarded
to Chic Scott for his outstanding contributions
to the ACC over many years of involvement
and for his numerous contributions to Canadian mountaineering in general.
Yes, the ACC has an Expeditions Committee. One of the roles of this Committee is that
of verifying and endorsing Canadian climbers
going on international expeditions (primarily in
the Himalaya). Mike Galbraith reported on his
work as chair of this Committee, which includes acting as a liaison with the UIAA,
reporting on UIAA activities, such as legal
issues, especially liability and training. He
reviewed the UIAA volunteer leader training
standards and program.
Explore Magazine has made an offer to
provide ongoing annual subscriptions (initially
for a three-year period) to all ACC members.
So—expect to see copies of Explore arriving
at your doorstep sometime soon!
A few ACC affiliated Student Outdoor
Clubs (SOC) have been started since the
program was recently initiated: University of
Calgary and Mt. Royal College. The objective
of the SOC program is to bring more young
members into the Club. At present, it is aimed
at college and university outdoor pursuit faculties and clubs in locations where the local
section is supportive; a second stage may
develop a program for high schools students.
Anyone in the Vancouver Section interested
in this can contact Manrico Scremin.
Land Use/Tenure Issues: Cam Roe provided background and information regarding a
new process for recreational land use and
...continued on page 6.
Facilities Report: on the
current status of hut and
Clubhouse (Canmore) revenues, as well as Clubhouse
and hut renovations to take
place this year. Pre-booking and cancellation policies
were reviewed; exclusive
bookings of huts for section
trips must be pre-approved
by the section. The ACC Camp at 4500m on Illampu, Bolivia. Photo by Jane Weller.
Avalanche Echoes 5
ACC National Board
Meeting Report
...continued from page 5.
tenure in BC. Tenures being issued to commercial operators have the potential to affect
the traditional activities of the ACC. Meetings have been held to address this issue and
the ACC will be investigating options for
applying for tenure in order to protect the
facilities and activities of the Club.
Accident Follow-up: Details of an iceclimbing
accident in Ottawa were reviewed. It was
noted that the Ottawa Section response to the
situation was a very good model of what to do
when an accident occurs. It was decided that
there should be a standard procedure to be
followed in accident situations and the importance of properly executed waivers was emphasized.
A contingent of Japanese climbers will be in
the Rockies over this summer to climb Mt.
Alberta and hike in other areas; this is connected to the Mt. Alberta climb that the
Japanese did years ago, and the legend of the
broken ice axe, which was eventually reconnected through efforts between Canadian and
Japanese climbers. For more information on
this interesting event, contact Manrico or Liz
Scremin.
Events: The Year 2000 Mountain Guides’
Ball will be held on October 28th; the next
Board meeting will be held on Oct. 28, 29. A
reception will be held at the Canadian Alpine
Centre on the Friday night (October 27th).
The Festival of Mountain Films 25th Anniversary Mountain Summit is scheduled for Oct.
30, 31. This will be followed by the Banff
Mountain Book and Film Festival (Nov. 1-5 book your tickets now!).
Next AGM will be in Vancouver, Spring
2001! The Vancouver Section presented a
proposal to host the next AGM, which will be
held in the Spring of 2001. Everyone voted in
favour, so we are looking forward to having
ACC representatives from across the country
here next spring. The ACC Vancouver Section executive are starting to look for venues;
we need volunteers to pick up people from the
airport, to billet people, to help run the meeting,
to help with the barbecue (Saturday night),
and to host day hikes or a longer trip (e.g.
some club members from the East would like
to do the Spearhead Traverse when they are
out here).
Other highlights: Saturday night barbecue till
the wee hours of the morning, telling jokes and
singing strange Scottish songs; hiking up Ha
Ling Peak on Sunday afternoon; planning trips
for the next year!
Avalanche Echoes 6
Liter
ar y Tid-bits ffor
or TentLiterar
bound Days
Georgia [Engelhard Cromwell] became known as a fast climber. The
Feuzes - Ed Jr., Ernest and Walter - were her favourite guides, although she also climbed
with Chris Hasler and Rudolph Aemmer. When Ed was first booked to guide Georgia,
Ernest (who had guided her already) warned him that, "You've got a fine lady, but watch
out. When she starts uphill, she goes like a rocket. What she needs is a mountain goat, not
a guide!" Ed described her as "tough and wiry" and said that she often had them puffing to
keep up. A climbing companion once joked with Ed about borrowing a set of hobbles from
the packer, or sneaking a few rocks into her pack, to slow her down. The Feuzes regarded
Georgia as "difficult", mainly because she could carry as much as any man in the party and
often showed up the less sturdy male climbers. The guides liked climbing with Georgia
because of her natural ability and enthusiasm, and she tipped well.
In turn, Georgia was very fond of her guides, trusting them implicitly. She learned to
climb by watching how the guides climbed and listened keenly to the few instructions they
gave. Many were very taciturn and gruff, not given to lengthy dissertations. The fee for a
guide at the time was flat $7 per day, regardless of the difficulty.
"They were short, strong, stocky men and rather monosyllabic, though both Chris and
Edward had palky senses of humour. They were not great guides in that they were not artists
on rock and ice and snow but very competent workman. They had no knowledge or use for
the modern techniques - the use of piton or karabiner, the art of rappelling were beyond their
ken. They did use crampons on occasion, but preferred to cut steps. After World War Two
when the use of Vibram soles on boots became popular, they were among the last to give
up their nailed boots. But despite their conservatism they were great guides in that nothing
delighted them more than making a first ascent or new route. They had a terrific flair for
route-finding, not only on rock and ice but also through the often dense forests that clothe
the lower stretches of an ascent. They seldom went wrong." [Georgia Engelhard Cromwell]
[Editor's Note: Georgia Engelhard Cromwell made 32 first ascents in the Rockies and
Selkirks between 1926 and the early 1950s.]
Off The Beaten Track - Women Adventurers and Mountaineers in Western Canada
Written by Cyndi Smith
Published by Coyote Books, 1989
Pages 244-245
Family Directory
The people on this list can phone others on the list to organize and coordinate
family trips. If you are not on the list and would like to be, please contact the editor
at [email protected].
NAME
Susan Hollenberg & Mark Haden
Jay MacArthur
Jessica Shintani & Bryan Evans
Ian McGillivray
Claude Mongeon
Dave Robertson & Kathy Wong
Don & Suzanne Serl
Don Stuart
Doug & Christina Williams
Marilyn Noort & David Holloway
Bini LeBlanc & Tami Knight
PHONE
736-3653
987-1232
872-6679
988-3618
584-0140
732-5177
872-4244
925-6816
736-5799
294-5784
731-5975
AGE OF CHILDREN
3 years
?
3 ½ years
8 years?
10 years
4 months/3 years
13 years/10 years
15 years/12 years
4 ½ years/8 ½ years
1 ½ years
2 human children aged 9 and 10
GRADING GUIDELINES
A - Less than 6 hrs travel per day
(not strenuous)
B - 6 to 8 hrs travel per day
(moderately strenuous)
C - 8 to 12 hrs travel per day
(strenuous)
D - More than 12 hrs travel per day
(extremely strenuous)
1 - Gentle slopes. Travel on trails over fairly
level terrain.
2 - Moderate slopes. Travel may be off trail.
Intermediate skiing ability recommended.
Easy climbing.
3 - Travel in mountainous terrain. Steep
forest and glaciers probable. Backcountry equipment and intermediate
skiing experience required. Moderate
climbing.
4 - Travel over difficult mountain terrain.
Advanced backcountry and mountaineering experience, ability and equipment
required. Advanced ski mountaineering
or moderate to difficult ice or mixed
climbing. Ropes and belays required.
5 - Technical ice or mixed climbing. Advanced climbing experience required.
Please contact trip organizers by the
Wednesday prior to the trip to express your
interest. Non-member are welcome on
trips but priority will be given to current
members. Thanks!
NOTE TO ALL TRIP LEADERS
Please remember, after you have led a trip, the
waiver forms MUST be returned to:
Alpine Club of Canada
c/o Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC
47 West Broadway, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1P1
For trip schedule and membership information
on the internet, look up the ACC Van. Section
at www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/vancouver.
This site also has a variety of useful listings and
links.
THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
VANCOUVER SECTION
CHAIRPERSON
Liz Scremin
MEMBERSHIP
Tania Zulkoskey
CLIMBING SCHEDULE
Ian McGillivray
921-2651
878-5272
988-3618
V ancouv
er Section T rip Sc
hedule
ancouver
Schedule
DATE
JUNE
DESTINATION
TYPE
20
Eve. Rockclimb Lighthouse Park Climb
21eve
24-25
St. John’s First Aid for the
Wilderness (members only)
23
25
27
JULY 1-3
8
9
9
9
14-16
15
15-16
15-16
15-16
16
16
16
16-22
22-23
22-23
22-29
23
29-30
July 29-Aug 4
AUG
5
6
5-7
5-7
12
12-13
13
13
13
19
19
19
20
20
26
26
26-27
27
27
SEPT 1-5
2-4
9
9
9-10
9-10
10
10
16-17
16-17
17
17
23-24
23-24
23-24
24
24
26
30-1
OCT
1
Course
GRADE ORGANIZER
PHONE
A5
Tania
738-0696
Call St. John’s Office
to register…
990-1290
High Falls Creek
Hike
A2
Tania
North Twin Sister
Bike/Climb C4
Helen Habgood
Monthly Meeting at 7:30pm in the Floral Hall of Van Dusen Gardens
Black Mtn W Ridg, N Cascades Climb
B4
Jane Weller
Haines Valley Loop
Hike
B2
Bridget Milsom
Mount McDonald/Mount Webb
Hike
B2
Hermann Sparn
Black Tusk Area
Hike/Ski B2
Bruce McKnight
Crown Mountain & The Camel
Climb
B5
Dave Ewert
Mt Shuksan, Fischer Chimneys Climb
C4
Rob Brusse
Coliseum Mountain
Hike
C3
Mary O’Donovan
FMCBC Trails Day: Lizzie Lake Trail Work
A2
Chris Bradley
Sun God
Climb
B2/3
Doug Wylie
Mount Matier
Climb
C3
Tom Hamilton
Brandywine Meadows/Peak
Hike
B2
Michael Schefter
Black Tusk Photo Workshop
Hike
B1
Doug Williams
Mount Rexford
Climb
C4
Helen Habgood
Girls Kick Ass Climbing Camp
Climb
B3/C4 Tami Knight
Three Fingers, Washington
Climb
B4
Skip King
Mount Robie Reid
Cnu/Climb C3
Chris Rolfe
2nd Annual Tantalus Camp
Climb
B3/C4 Peter Woodsworth
High Falls Creek
Hike
A2
Tania
Mt Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys
Climb
C4
Manrico Scremin
Rogers Pass Camp
Hike/Climb A1-C4 Rob Brusse
Tomyhoi Peak
Scramble B3
Karl Boerner
Wedgemount Lake
Hike
C2
Tony Knight
Castle Towers
Climb
C3/4
Peter Norris
Elaho/Princess Louisa Divide
Hike
B3
Hans
Minnekhada Park
Hike
A1
Jan Palaty
North Twin Sister
Climb
B4
Rob Brusse
Chain Lakes Circuit near Baker Hike
S1
Gideon Rosenbluth
Squamish Chief Family Hike
Hike
A1
Pippa Rowcliffe
Garibaldi Lake
Hike
B2
Sharon Folkes
Little Mamquam
Hike
C3
Todd Ponzini
Surprise!
Bike/Hike B2
Ilze Rupners
Check and See!
Hike
B/C3
Heather Hamilton
Cheakamus to Garibaldi Lk
Hike
C2
Maria Gunkel
Mount Harvey, North Face
Climb
B4/5
Brett McConochie
Mount Seymour
Hike
A1
Don Smellie
Sketching Outdoors
Hike
A2
Lesley Bohm
Mount MacDonald
Climb
C5
Margaret Hanson
Hannigan Pass
Hike
B2
Christina Williams
Needle Peak
Hike
B2
Robbin Gunn
Beece Peak, Chilcotin
Climb
C5
Don Serl
Aspen-Marriott-Rohr Traverse
Hike
C2
Magdalena Rucker
Crown Mountain & The Camel
Climb
B5
Rob Brusse
Black Mountain
Hike
A1
Don Smellie
Tricouni Peak
Scramble B3
Liz Scremin
Athelstan
Scramble C3
Fern Hietkamp
Mount Outram
Climb
B3
Carol McMillan
Family Scrambling Trip
Scramble A2/3
Michael Barkusky
Mount Sloan
Climb
C4
Chris Bradley
Mount Clark
Climb
C3
Rich Pawlowicz
Tomyhoi Peak
Scramble C3
Doug Williams
Mount Seymour Family Hike
Hike
A1
John Richmond
Black Tusk/Panorama Ridge
Hike
B2/3
Karen Backmann
Duffey Lake Area
Hike
B2
Sue Higginbottom
Mount Ashlu
Climb
B3
Ian McGillivray
The Lions
Climb
B3
Melinda Straight
Elsay Lake
Hike
B3
Mothe Tilden
Monthly Meeting at 7:30pm in the Floral Hall of Van Dusen Gardens
Tenquille Lake
Hike
B2
Tony Knight
Mount Strachan
Hike
S2
George Hamilton
738-0696
984-6840
988-3618
985-2748
531-1707
926-5799
931-7472
224-0747
873-1260
874-2123
922-9299
736-1562
736-4794
736-5799
984-6840
731-5975
421-6662
215-0115
254-7076
738-0696
921-2651
224-0747
271-1757
873-2276
240-6087
228-9499
204-0012
224-0747
228-1700
222-0991
731-7441
946-7420
222-3720
731-2446
985-3041
525-5029
988-5834
224-1098
736-6397
736-5799
254-6523
872-4244
738-3446
224-0747
988-5834
921-2651
872-4290
879-2947
874-4118
874-2123
222-3343
736-5799
874-0408
736-5079
925-3742
988-3618
980-9921
720-8987
873-2276
988-1888
Avalanche Echoes 7
A classic trip with kids to the Squamish Chief...Great for
Howe Sound vistas, scrambling on slabs and cool dips in the
beautiful pools of Olesen Creek. Perfect on a hot summer
day!
Sound appealing? Check out the August 13th Squamish
Chief Family Hike on our trip schedule and introduce your
young ones to the fun!
Photos by Manrico Scremin.
Family Trips at a glance:
DATE
July29-4
Aug12
Aug13
Aug26
Sep10
Sep17
DESTINATION
TYPE
GRADE
ORGANIZER
PHONE
Rogers Pass Camp
Hike/Climb
A1/C4 Rob Brusse
224-0747
For all members including families. Stay at the AO Wheeler Hut or at the campground.
Minnekhada Park
Hike
A1
Jan Palaty
204-0012
Squamish Chief Family Hike
Hike
A1
Pippa Rowcliffe
222-0991
Mount Seymour
Hike
A1
Don Smellie
988-5834
Family Scrambling Trip
Scramble
A2/3
Michael Barkusky
874-4118
Mount Seymour Family Hike
Hike
A1
John Richmond
874-0408
03964906
The AVALANCHE ECHOES Newsletter is printed
and published monthly by:
The Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Section,
c/o Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC
47 West Broadway, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1P1
CANADIAN PUBLICATIONS MAIL
SALES PRODUCT AGREEMENT #1528580
Avalanche Echoes 8