Contents - COSSMA.com

Contents
COSSMA 3/2016
16
The latest
launches of
multi-functional ingredients
3
Editorial
10 MARKETS & COMPANIES
10 Market + Companies
12 GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
12
Poly-sensorial
product concepts:
appealing to all
five senses
12 Helga Hertsig-Lavocah, Hint Creative Consultancy:
Is mousse the new oil?
16 Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS):
Winning formulas
20 Dr Alexandra Erlach, Delta-SR:
Palm oil – Alternatives in sight?
22 Star of the Month: Waking up with a smell
23 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel:
International launches
24 INGREDIENTS
24 Sun care – More than one choice
20
27 Ingredients news
28 Formulations: Skin cleansing
29 Essential oil prices
30 SPOTLIGHT: FRAGRANCES
30 Creating scents for to-morrow
33 Fragrance news
4l
COSSMA 3 I 2016
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ADVERTISEMENT
GLOBAL CLOSURE SYSTEMS
VISION OF THE IDEAL
CLOSURE FOR PERSONAL
CARE APPLICATIONS
rands want to attract consumers with improved packaging that creates greater shelf
presence and provides a more sophisticated solution. To do so, Global Closure Systems (GCS) provides
customers and ultimately consumers with innovative & value added
closure solutions thanks to its market driven focus and best in class
manufacturing. The group creates
value by developing closure systems
that are more user-friendly to open,
pour and close and easier to keep
clean while improving quality, safety and brand image.
B
ticated look, Touareg provides an elegant dispensing solution that meets
customers’ brand identity. Its matt
lid can be customized to feature the
brand’s logo and the cap is available
in a large range of colours. Although
light weighted, Touareg does not
compromise in either seal and barrier quality or performance for the end
consumer. Thanks to its best in class
butterfly hinge, it offers a one-hand
dispensing for enhanced convenience.
Eco-conception:
Applying creative design
photos: Global Closure Systems
Compellingly Bespoke
With a broad range of over 950
standard references – in all shapes,
colours and bottle neck finishes –
GCS
delivers
performance,
high-quality as well as unique designs to stand the products out from
the crowd.
GCS launched Diamond, an oval
bi-injected snap hinge closure which
is available in a multitude of colour
combinations, including translucent. With its rounded shape, its
matt base and glossy lid, it perfectly
meets the expectations of the beauty
and cosmetic industry. More, the
headstand pack option ensures that
the content can be dispensed and accessed more easily and efficiently to
the last drop.
In the same line, the standard tube
closure Touareg has been designed
to boast style and quality while at
the same time respecting the environment. With its fresh and sophis-
Indeed, Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) enables quick and efficient simulation of fluid flow.
Flow control and dispensing
in personal care
Easier to open caps, headstand
packs, flow-control, clean dispensing… are all features which respond
to the consumer’s ever growing desire for convenience and ease of use.
GCS meets these expectations
through a range of innovative technologies from silicone valves
through to flow control devices.
Thanks to a unique development
methodology that combines the traditional practical experience with
novel computerised fluid dynamics
and proficiency in cutting edge technologies, GCS is able to provide the
best solution by predicting the dispensing behaviour.
Light weighting is also remaining a
strong trend in the personal care
industry. Weight reduction is systematically in the design brief of
standard or custom products, and
suppliers continue to strive to develop products which satisfy both environment and cost concerns.
But GCS goes further and has been
awarded at Interpack 2014, in the
EcoDesign category as for its Parachute closure.
Parachute Concept sounds
like evidence. There are
many lightweight closures
on the market which are
all looking the same: thin
walls, small and slim line.
Whilst they offer a low
carbon foot print, they
harm brands.
Parachute is a unique concept of flip
top closure that softens the landing
for brands while they strive to lightweight their packs.
www.gcs.com
@GCS_Public
www.cossma.com
l9
Contents
COSSMA 3/2016
54
A look at Henkel’s
latest innovations
34 BACKGROUND
34 Imogen Matthews:
Insights into global beauty trends
38 Oru Mohiuddin, Euromonitor:
Added benefits drive growth
40 PACKAGING
40 Cosmopack – More than a treat for the eyes
42 Caps and closures –
All’s well that closes well
44 PCD and ADF review:
Award winners from close-up
48 Packaging news
50 Gerald Schubert, Schubert Group:
A sustainable purchase
42
54 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
Smart solutions for caps and closures
54 Interview with Dr Thomas Förster, Henkel:
Oil technology and more
58 People
60 SERVICES
38
What are the
growth drivers
in sun care?
8
Download List
60 Events diary
61 BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG 2016 –
Learning from experts
62 Suppliers‘ Guide
62 Advertisers’ Index
65 Masthead Page
66 Preview
Front cover picture: Henkel
6 l COSSMA 3 I 2016
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MARKETS & COMPANIES
Free Downloads
for Subscribers | www.cossma.com/download
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS:
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DR. SIMON ELMER
Luxury Packaging
Development Leader
at P&G Prestige
talks about an
award-winning
perfume bottle and
the latest trends in
luxury packaging.
COSSMA DOWNLOAD-TIP IN MARCH
With a 4-step approach, the active
ingredient Soliberine from Greentech
protects against ageing and photoageing effects and protects the dermis components from UV-induced
oxidative stress. The new ingredient made from the flowers of the
Butterflybush maintains the activity
of epidermal stem cells and limits
the oxidative stress induced by UV
exposure. COSSMA Subscribers can
download further background information.
UV radiation is responsible for
almost 80% of skin ageing
DOWNLOADS
Additional information at
www.cossma.com/download
Your access codes for March:
User name: cossma3
Password: future
NICOLAS LASBISTES
THOMAS KEISER
GERALD MARTINES
General Manager
at Industrieverband
Körperpflege &
Waschmittel (IKW)
Director of
innovation at
Qualipack
explains the market development in
Germany in 2015.
8l
COSSMA 3 I 2016
talks about the development of the market
for airless dispensers.
Top-Downloads for March
BACKGROUND
Sunscreen performance close to spectral homeostasis?
(BASF)
VIDEO
Become a skin checker (La Roche Posay)
REFERENCES
Protection from air pollution (Rahn AG)
FORMULATION
Plume Foundation (Covestro)
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topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL
ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished
products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at
www.cossma.com/download
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photo: Oleg Gawriloff, Shutterstock.com
Global Technical Marketing Manager
at Clariant talks about Clariant’s offer
in the field of sustainable ingredients
for personal care.
Trends
Statements
Innovation
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[email protected] Tel: +49 (0)7243 7278-162 Fax: +49 (0)7243 7278-252
PRODUCTION
people
HENKEL
MERZ CONSUMER CARE
Pascal Houdayer (46), currently Corporate Senior Vice President in the
Laundry & Home Care business unit,
will be appointed member of the
Henkel Management Board. He will
succeed Hans Van Bylen (54) as Executive Vice President
for the Beauty Care
business as of May
2016. Van Bylen
will then succeed
Kasper Rorsted as
CEO of Henkel. Houdayer joined Henkel
in 2011. Since 1993,
George Bouille
he has held various
international management positions at
Procter & Gamble in Europe, North
Africa and the US in the Laundry and
Home Care business as well as
Body Care.
Steven Potschull has taken over the position as Sales Director at Merz Consumer Care with
the brands Tetesept
and Merz Spezial.
He will also be part
of the management
team. Since 2006, he
had worked for Colgate-Palmolive in
marketing and sales.
Steven Potschull
www.henkel.com
LOGOCOS
After Lars Börgel (46) left Alessandro
International where he was partner and
CEO, he joined Logocos as Chief Representative. He sold his shares of Alessandro to Zwilling Beauty, which already
holds a majority
interest in Alessandro. Börgel had
joined Alessandro in
2010 after the company had made 170
employees redundant
due to a drastic sales
slump; Börgel manLars Börgel
aged to restructure
the company and overcome the insolvency of the company’s most important
distribution partner, Beauty Brands
International GmbH (BBI). The Logocos portfolio includes the brands Logona, Sante, Heliotrop, NeoBio and
Fitne.
www.logocos.com
www.merz.de
NEOPAC
Hoffmann Neopac and Tu-Plast
have consolidated their sales organization for cosmetics under the leadership of Michael
Aringhoff. Aringhoff
has been working
at Hoffmann Neopac since 2010 as
a key account manager and as Head of
Sales Support. Attila
Békési, previously
Michael Aringhoff
Commercial Director
at Tu-Plast, is now heading the group’s
sales regions. Monika Rüegg is now leading strategic market projects. Neopac
primarily produces specialized Polyfoil
tubes; Tu-Plast produces mostly PE and
Coex tubes for the cosmetics market.
www.neopac.com
SYMRISE
Andreas R. Hofmann, who previously
worked for Pharma Waldhof, was
assigned the position of Symrise’s
Regional Sales Director Cosmetic Ingredients responsible for Germany, Austria,
Switzerland, Eastern Europe, Scandinavia
and Benelux. He started his professional
career with Beiersdorf and worked
there for more than seven years in various positions. Marie-Laure Roumiguière
Dr. Jamie Hawkes is now Global Head of
Hair Care Technology in Manchester (UK)
www.lonza.com
58 l COSSMA 3 I 2016
Marie-Laure
Roumiguière
Andreas
Hofmann
assumed the newly-created position as
Head of Global Account Management
EAME for the Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients division based in Paris. Beforehand,
she pursued different roles at Cargill
and for IMCD for 10 years.
www.symrise.com
YSL BEAUTÉ
Peter Bauer, Retail Director of L’Oréal’s
Luxe division, has been appointed Managing Director of YSL Beauté and the
division Designer Brands. Before that,
he worked for 10 years for Beiersdorf
in different positions.
He succeeds Vera
Breuer, who, having
held this position for
five years, has been
appointed Account
Director in Singapore
for The Body Shop.
Alma Lipa is now
Peter Bauer
head of the division
Biotherm/Helena
Rubinstein/Kiehl’s/Urban Decay.
Beforehand, she was
responsible for the
launch of Urban
Decay in Germany.
During her 10 years
Alma Lip
at L’Oréal, she was
Head of Marketing and Account Manager in the division Consumer Products.
LINDAL
Georges Bouille, the aerosol expert
on bag-on-valve (BoV) technology, has
joined the Lindal Group as a consultant.
He has developed breakthrough aerosol technology for Aptar and EP Spray
Systems. His career began as a business consultant before joining Nuss-
PRODUCTION
people
she will be responsible for the strategic and technical
development of international cosmetics
activities. She joined
the company in April
2005 and has worked
Bettina Heick
in the operations of
the Cosmetics division as Product Manager since 2009.
baum. Beginning in
1991, Bouille played
an instrumental role
in the international
introduction of the
bag-on-valve dispensing technology
through the start-up
George Bouille
EP Spray System.
After EP’s acquisition by Aptar Group
in 2005, Bouille integrated Seaquist’s
Global Management Team.
www.biesterfeld.com
www.lindalgroup.com
ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES
Stéphane de la Faverie has been promoted to Global Brand President, Origins
and Darphin. Beth DiNardo has been
promoted to Global Brand President,
Smashbox. Daniel Rachmanis has been
promoted to President, Latin America.
www.elcompanies.com
BIESTERFELD
Bettina Heick, 36, has been appointed
as Marketing Manager for the Cosmetics division at Biesterfeld. In this position,
IFF
International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), manufacturer of flavours
and fragrances, has appointed Dionisio Ferenc to the position of Vice President, Global Fine Fragrances. He has
more than 20 years
of experience in the
fragrance industry.
He joined IFF Argentina in 1994 as sales
account manager
and has since held
commercial and
managerial roles of
Dionisio Ferenc
increasing responsibility within both the
Fragrances and Flavors divisions in Latin
America, including Country Manager –
Brazil, and most recently Vice President,
Regional General Manager Fragrances
– Latin America, a role he has held since
the year 2007.
FABER-CASTELL
The eighth-generation
family entrepreneur
Count Anton-Wolfgang
von Faber-Castell died
after a severe illness at
the age of 74. Under
his leadership that
lasted almost 40 years,
Anton-Wolfgang
the global company
von Faber-Castell
Faber-Castell turned
into an international premium brand and
has become an important producer of
cosmetic pencils. In 1978, he became the
sole managing partner of the Faber-Castell Group and since the year 2000, he
had served as Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Faber-Castell.
www.fc-cosmetics.com
– ADVERTISEMENT –
SEMINARE
|
FA C H L I T E R AT U R
|
V E R A N S TA LT U N G E N
Wir qualifizieren Führungskräfte & Mitarbeiter der
kosmetischen Industrie
COSMETIC CAMPUS - Unser Seminarprogramm im 1. Halbjahr 2016
Neu im Programm:
Konservierung von Kosmetika – Systeme, Einflussgrößen, Chancen und Risiken
n
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15. Juni 2016 in Frankfurt am Main
Kosmetik Claims im Wandel – Rechtliche Vorgaben & praktische Umsetzung
16. Juni 2016 in Frankfurt am Main
Qualifizierungsseminar zum Hygienebeauftragten in der kosmetischen Industrie
28. Juni 2016 in Frankfurt am Main
Außerdem finden Sie bei uns Seminare zu folgenden Themen:
Kosmetik-GMP Workshop
Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene
Produktentwicklung kosmetischer Mittel
Weitere Informationen und Details zu den Seminaren unter: www.cosmetic-campus.de
Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH | Landhausstraße 46 | 75334 Straubenhardt | [email protected] | www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
Anzeige_COSSMA_210x98mm.indd 1
07.01.2016 17:54:45
www.cossma.com
l 59
SERVICES
FAIRS, CONFERENCES
AND SEMINARS
2016
WHEN?
WHAT?
WHERE?
WHO?
04.–05.03.2016
BEAUTY FORUM SLOVAKIA
Trencin
Slovakia
Expo Center
[email protected]
04.–06.03.2016
Beauty Düsseldorf
Düsseldorf
Germany
Messe Düsseldorf GmbH
www.beauty.de
05.–06.03.2016
BEAUTY FORUM POLAND
Warsaw
Poland
Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o.
[email protected]
www.beauty-fairs.com.pl
05.–06.03.2016
BEAUTY FORUM ROMANIA
Cluj-Napoca
Romania
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
www.beauty-forum.ro
06.–08.03.2016
International Esthetics
Cosmetics & Spa Conference
New York
USA
IESC
www.iecsc.com
08.–09.03.2016
Verpackungsentwicklung und
Verpackungsoptimierung
Nuremberg
Germany
Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut
www.verpackungsakademie.de
09.–10.03.2016
DGK-Workshop: Praxisorientierte
Informationen zur Rheologie in der
kosmetischen Industrie
Tübingen
Germany
DGK e.V.
www.dgk-ev.de
10.–11.03.2016
HPCI India
Mumbai
India
SOFW
www.hpci-congress.com
10.–13.03.2016
BEAUTY & CARE (WK) Turkey
Istanbul
Turkey
Interteks
www.interteks.com
15.–16.03.2016
Making Cosmetics
Coventry
Great Britain
Step Exhibitions Ltd
www.making-cosmetics.com
17.–20.03.2016
Cosmopack
Bologna
Italy
SoGeCos
www.cosmoprof.com
18.–21.03.2016
Cosmoprof
Bologna
Italy
SoGeCos
www.cosmoprof.com
27.–29.03.2016
OMC Hairworld
Korea
Kintex
OMC Hairworld
www.omchairworld.com
03.–04.04.2016
Workshop:
Cosmetic-GMP ISO 22716
Chandler, Arizona
USA
Cosmetic Campus
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
06.–08.04.2016
Grundlagenkurs: Mikrobiologie
der Kosmetika
Lemgo
Germany
DGK e.V.
www.dgk-ev.de
11.–12.04.2016
Parfümerietagung
Düsseldorf
Germany
Bundesverband Parfümerien
www.parfuemerietagung.de
12.–14.04.2016
In-Cosmetics
Paris
France
Reed Exhibitions
www.in-cosmetics.com
13.–14.04.2016
LuxePack Shanghai
Shanghai
China
Idice SAS
www.luxepackshanghai.com
19.04.2016
Workshop:
Kosmetik-GMP
Windhagen
Germany
Cosmetic Campus
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
19.–21.04.2016
Powtech
Nuremberg
Germany
NürnbergMesse GmbH
www.powtech.de
23.–24.04.2016
BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG
Leipzig
Germany
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Natalie Karszt, [email protected]
www.beauty-fairs.de
25.–28.04.2016
Iran Beauty & Clean
Tehran
Iran
SameePaad Novin Company
www.spnco.net
60 l COSSMA 3 I 2016
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Learning
from experts
Events | Not to be missed – the 6th Cosmetology
Congress and the 6th Podology Congress during
this year’s BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG.
he 6th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG
takes place at Leipziger Messe
on April 23–24. At the same
time on April 23, the 6th Cosmetology Congress will feature topics such
as dermatology, active ingredients
and anti-ageing. With their highly
informative presentations, competent industry experts will be sharing their knowledge. The congress is
certified by the Chamber of Pharma-
photo: Pauline Fabry
T
cy in Saxony and will qualify participants with two points in the field of
further education.
The 6th Podology Congress takes
place on Sunday, April 24. Six competent and experienced specialists
will be presenting their knowledge
in three different sessions focussing
on the latest findings and treatments
in the field of the diabetic foot syndrome and will be answering ques-
tions from the audience. The congress is certified by the German
association of podology, ZFD, which
allots seven points to podologists;
the Chamber of Pharmacy in Saxony
grants five points to pharmacists.
AM
– ADVERTISEMENT –
Als stark expandierendes Unternehmen gehören wir seit über
50 Jahren zu den führenden Kosmetikherstellern. Wir vertreiben
unsere hochwertigen Pflegeprodukte in Kosmetikinstituten und
exklusiven Spas. Neben unserer Biomimetic SkinCare bieten wir auch
eine umfassende nach COSMOS ORGANIC zertifizierte Biolinie an.
Zum nächstmöglichen Zeitpunkt suchen wir für die Regionen
Rhein-Neckar, S, HN sowie das Saarland und Rheinland-Pfalz eine:
Starke Persönlichkeit
als Außendienstmitarbeiter (w/m)
Ihre Aufgaben:
· Sie beraten, verkaufen und schulen bestehende und neue Kunden auf
die Produkte und entwickeln mit diesen gemeinsam eigenständige
Abverkaufsmaßnahmen.
· Sie sind für das Wachstum in Ihrem Vertriebsgebiet verantwortlich
und berichten direkt an die Geschäftsleitung.
· Sie setzen die Marketing- und Vertriebsziele erfolgreich um und
arbeiten aktiv an der Gewinnung von Neukunden.
Ihr Profil:
· Sie verfügen über eine profunde Ausbildung in der Kosmetik und
vorzugsweise über mehrjährige Erfahrung im Außendienst.
· Sie haben kaufmännisches Geschick und Organisationstalent, lieben
den Kontakt zu Ihren Mitmenschen und schaffen es, sie zu begeistern.
· Sie handeln gerne in Eigenverantwortung und haben Spaß am erfolgsund serviceorientierten Arbeiten.
· Sie zeichnen sich durch ein sicheres, gepflegtes und überzeugendes
Auftreten aus.
· Neukundenakquise ist für Sie eine Herausforderung.
Es erwartet Sie eine abwechslungsreiche und verantwortungsvolle Position im Angestelltenverhältnis mit kurzen Entscheidungswegen, ein attraktives, leistungsorientiertes Einkommen sowie
ein Firmenwagen, auch zur privaten Nutzung.
Bitte senden Sie Ihre vollständigen Unterlagen unter Angabe Ihrer
Gehaltsvorstellung und Ihres möglichen Eintrittstermins an:
Dr. Spiller GmbH
Personalabteilung
Voglinger Straße 11
83313 Siegsdorf
[email protected]
Telefon 08662 49840
www.dr-spiller.com
www.cossma.com
l 61
Trends
Statements
Innovation
A & E Connock Ltd
SEUFERT
TRANSPARENTE
VERPACKUNGEN GMBH
PACKED
WITH
INSPIRATION.
www.connock.com
p. 68
E-mail newsletter order
bomo trendline innovative Cosmetics
GmbH
www.bomo-trendline.de
p. 37
Brookfield Engineering
www.brookfieldengineering.com
p. 32
Clariant International Ltd.
www.clariant.com/mildness
www.seufert.com
p. 2
Dermatest GmbH
www.dermatest.de
Safety Assessments
p. 39
Donau Kanol GmbH & Co. KG
www.donau-kanol.com
p. 35
Dr. Spiller GmbH
www.dr-spiller.com
p. 61
Erbo Spraytec AG
www.erbo-spraytec.ch
p. 7
Faber-Castell Cosmetics
www.fc-cosmetics.com
p. 51
Global Closures Systems France 1
www.gcs.com
p. 9
GEKA GmbH
www.geka-world.com
p. 49
KHK GmbH
www.lipcare.de/private-label
p. 48
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
✓Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree
z
that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact
me by mobile phone, e-mail, in writing, by telephone/fax with news from the industry and to tell me
about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further information, I will communicate this to Health and
Beauty.
p. 48
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com
p. 31
Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card:
Lindal Group
www.lindalgroup.com
E-mail
M & H Plastics
www.mhplastics.com
Sterilization
p. 35
Nürnberg Messe GmbH
First name, family name
www.powtech.de
Wir machen Ihre
Produkte
steril!
BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation.
@
p. 53
p. 11
Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH
Company
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
p. 59
Reed Exhibition Companies
Street address
www.in-cosmetics.com
p. 47
www.bgs.eu
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
www.sabinsaeurope.com
WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG
[email protected] | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Wool wax
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120
Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015
www.wagnerlanolin.com
p. 5
Postcode, city, country
Schubert International
www.schubert-international.com
Bound Insert
Date and signature
SystemKosmetik Produktionsges.
für kosmetische Erzeugnisse mbH
www.systemkosmetik.de
p. 26
Vantage Group
www.vantagegrp.com
p. 27
Order today:
Fax: +49 (0)7243 7278-252
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, 76275 Ettlingen · Germany
Phone: +49 (0)7243 7278-162 · Fax: +49 (0)7243 7278-252
E-mail: [email protected]
E51280
3 / 2016
COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING
WWW.COSSMA.COM
GO FUTURE:
NEW IDEAS
Poly-sensoriality –
Is mousse the new oil?
SPOTLIGHT:
FRAGRANCES
Creating trends
for tomorrow
Dr Thomas Förster, Henkel
“OIL TECHNOLOGY
AND MORE”
DR ALEXANDRA ERLACH
Delta-SR, talks
about an alternative
for palm oil