N - AMAZON RIVER EXPERT

Transcrição

AMAZON
the River For The
First Time...
and Forever
Amazon
RiverExpert.COM
By Mynor Schult
AmazonRiverExpert.com
3
“Charming testimony and a guide to the transformative power of nature available to all and worthy of being cared for by all. ¨.
Viviana Fernández
Anchor/Producer at CNN
------------------------------------------
I previewed “Amazon River First Time” and find the book as an excellent guide
not only to explore the river for the first time, but as an excellent reference for anyone interested in learning more about the Amazon. The photos are very creative and
strengthen the case. The topic seems very relevant and appropriate in these times of
global warming. Mynor good luck with this exciting adventure!
Dra. Donna Schwontkowski,
M.S. in Nutrition & Master Herbalist author of the book “Traditional Herbs form the
Amazon and Their Common Uses” owner and presenter of the TV show “Health & Fitness
Solutions.”
------------------------------------------
“Every little bit of rain forest that gets ripped out over there… really hurts us
over here.”
Harrison Ford
Star of Indiana Jones and Air Force One
------------------------------------------
“ESPECTACULAR! CONGRATULATIONS! Today, I managed to read more than 40
pages of this very readable and informative book. It has aroused my interest to
go back to the Amazon, and I will use this book for my future journey from Coca
to Belem.”
Mario Cifuentes,
Owner of Hotel Hacienda El Eden, Cali, Colombia. Frequent traveler to the Amazon River
------------------------------------------
“Each of us must take a greater personal responsibility for this deteriorating
global environment”
Al Gore,
Nobel Peace Prize & Vice-President Earth in the Balance
4
Amazon The River For The First Time... and Forever.
Copyright Notice
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, including electronic or mechanical. Any unauthorized
use, sharing, reproduction, or distribution of parts herein is strictly prohibited. You
may NOT distribute this document, edit, or reprint its content.
Legal Notice
While attempts have been made to verify the correctness and reliability of the
information provided in this publication, the author and publisher do not assume
any responsibilities for errors, omissions, or contradictory information contained in
this document.
The author and publisher are not liable for any losses or damages whatsoever,
including, but not limited to, the loss of business, profits, service, clients, information, or any other pecuniary loss. The information contained in this document is not
intended as advice (legal, medical, financial or otherwise) and is provided for traveling and educational purposes only. You are highly encouraged to seek the advice of
a competent professional when applicable.
The reader of this book assumes all responsibility and liability for the use of
these materials and information. Mynor Schult, AmazonExpert.com, and AmazonRiverFirstTime.com assume no responsibility or liability whatsoever on behalf of the
reader of these materials.
Additional Notice and Disclaimers
Any results depicted or implied in this document are atypical of most results.
No guarantees, promises, or suggestions of any results are made, whether implied
or stated. Individual results may vary from those shown, and everything herein is
provided on an “at your own risk” basis.
While the author has done his earnest best to make sure that you enjoy this
report, certain grammatical and typographical errors may still exist. Any such error,
or any perceived slight of a specific person or organization, is purely unintentional.
Wherever the neuter is not used, any one gender was chosen for simplicity’s sake.
This document was created with the hope that the reader finds its content useful
and not analyzed for the purposes of gender equality, language correctness, or writing style.
Words, phrases, ads, and graphics, whether followed by “TM,” “SM” and “®” or
not, are trademarks and servicemarks of AmazonRiverExpert.com or are the trademarks and servicemarks of their respective owners, whether indicated or not.
5
Table of Contents
Copyright Notice. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Legal Notice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Additional Notice and Disclaimers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
ABOUT THE AUTHOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
About This Book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Chapter 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Why is this Trip the Most Beautiful Journey on Earth?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Traveling is Easy Now… From Anywhere. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
You Can Surf in the Amazon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Start Your Trip with Confidence. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
What I Want to Do For You. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Why Should You Care? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Who This Book is For . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Can You Take the Challenge? Will You?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Striking Facts that Will Leave You Speechless . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Chapter 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
THE BEST JOURNEY OF YOUR LIFE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
What to Expect in Upcoming Chapters. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Trip Preparations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
The Amazon Lifestyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
What You Must Bring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Where Will You Start?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
FOR THE AMAZON RIVER, THERE MUST BE A BEGINNING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Where It Began Was a Controversy at One Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Where We Will Start Our Journey and Why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
And Later to Come… . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
What Sector Sounds Good to You Right Now?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
A Tip to Bring You Travel Pleasure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Tips About Reading This Book. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Remember This about Your Visa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Decisions Will Be Easier by the End of the Book. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
The Amazon Basin is Vast and Expansive. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Are You a Park Lover? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Is Colombia Safe? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Popular Travel Destination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Chapter 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
FROM PERU TO COLOMBIA, NAVIGATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
THE MOST REMOTE WATERS OF THE AMAZON. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
SECTOR 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Up Close and Personal to Indigenous Tribes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
6
Pretty Pink Dolphins to Giant Pirarucu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Birdlife the Whole World Admires and Envies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Flowers That Seem Out of This World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Scenic Excursions that are Absolutely Wonderful. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Getting There and Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
By Air : . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
River Transport : . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Here’s an Alternate Plan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Remember the Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
No Need to Fear Being Stranded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
You are Interesting to the Indigenous Peoples. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
The Apex of 3 South American Countries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
What to Know about Iquitos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
A Bit of History Awaits You. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
The Shamans are Available to You. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Pacaya-Samiria – Discover How the People Live .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Veinte de Enero – Observe the People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Yarina – Haven for Photographers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Manco Capac – Fishing Resort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Community of Grau – Lookout Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Pevas, Peru – Authentic Crafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Caballo Cocha, Peru – Piranha Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Puerto Nariño, Colombia – Great Architecture and Alligators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Amacayacu National Park – Tamarins and Turtles for Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Enthusiasts .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Santa Rosa, Peru – Not Many Tourist Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Leticia, Colombia – You Have Arrived . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Chapter 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
FROM COLOMBIA TO BRAZIL, FROM THE SERENITY OF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
COLOMBIA TO THE MADNESS OF MANAUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
SECTOR 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Sunrises and Night Skies to Fall in Love With . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Be Alert Here. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Just Relax and Go Back into Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
The Journey May Bring You Love. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
A Day Onboard the Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
The City of Manaus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Ways to Get There and Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
By Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Arriving in Leticia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Aero Republica Airlines .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Air Satena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Tabatinga to Manaus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
TRIP Airlines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Slow Boat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Speedboat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Attractions in Leticia and theTri-Border Area. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
The Place to Go for Cultural Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leticia, Tabatinga, and Santa Rosa – Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Parks Santander Orellana – For Parrot Lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leticia Serpentarium – For Snake Lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leticia Zoo – For Animal Lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Store Brazil – For Artifact Collectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Local Markets Leticia and Tabatinga – A ‘Must Go’ Place .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Benjamin Constant, Brazil – Connecting Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Palmari Reserve, Brazil – Visit the Tribes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
60
60
61
61
61
61
61
62
62
Chapter 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
FROM MANAUS TO BELEM, FROM THE JUNGLE OF MANAUS TO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
THE BEACHES OF BELEM ON THE ATLANTIC COAST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
SECTOR 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Enjoy Your Hammock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
From Santarem, the following rates apply: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Getting There and Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
By Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
By Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
By Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Speedboat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Slow Boats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Manaus, Beautiful and Crazy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Plenty of Cultural Activities .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
The Rainforest Canopy Experience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Teatro Amazonas – Historic Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Black River Palace – Exhibitions of Interest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Mercado Adolfo Lisboa – Boats and Bazaars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Courthouse – Historic Building . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Museum of Natural Science in Amazonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Indian Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Cigs Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Praia de Ponta Negra – Beachlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Meeting of the Waters – Scenic Spot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
From Manaus to Santarem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Get There Early . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
About Your Hammock .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
You May Be in a Time Warp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
What it is Like Onboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
The Meeting of Waters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Mealtime is Specific . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Enjoy the New Acquaintances You Meet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Dance, Dance, Dance Your Night Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
City of Santarem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
How to Get to Santarem?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
By Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
By Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
By Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
8
Alter do Chão beaches – Like the Caribbean .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Tapajós National – Artistic Gifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Lago Maica – Bird Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
THE JOURNEY CONTINUES... FROM SANTAREM TO BELEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
YOU’RE AN EXPERIENCED AMAZON TRAVELER NOW!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
THEY ARE NOT PIRATES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Underprivileged May Ask for Your Help . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Belem is a Very Busy Port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
CITY OF BELEM – MANGOS AND ACAI TREES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
How to Get There?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
What to Do?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Goeldi Museum – Manatees & Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
The Old Dock – Dine on the Dock .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Vero Peso Market – Fresh Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Republic Square – Artist & Musician Performances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Cidade Velha – Interesting Old Time Houses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Praça do Relógio – Big Ben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Museo da Cidade – A Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Palácio Lauro Sodré – Dungeons! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Icoaracy Village – Pottery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Ilha de Marajo – Ecology at Its Best. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Mosqueiro Island – Island Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Awestruck Journey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
LENÇOIS MARANHENSES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Chapter 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
BUS YOUR WAY TO THE AMAZON RIVER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Angel Falls – Should Be One of the 7 Wonders of the World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Continue Your Bus Journey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
CITY OF BOA VISTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Road Closings at Night. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mass Transit Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
You Won’t Believe the Price of This Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
89
90
91
92
93
93
93
Chapter 7. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
THE WILD ROUTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
ROADS TO THE AMAZON JUNGLE (ONLY FOR TRUE ADVENTURES) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
From the Andean Mountains of Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
From the Ecuadorian Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
From Guyana and Suriname . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
From Cayenne to Brazil Amapá and Belem) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
From Georgetown to Boa Vista (Roraima, Brazil) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Chapter 8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
CONSERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE TOURISM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
A Prerequisite for Traveling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
9
Your Oxygen Source . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Your Generosity to Your Friends Helps the Indigenous. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
This Trip Changes Your Life. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Will You Embrace These Goals?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
THE RESPONSIBLE TOURIST AND TRAVELLER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Chapter 9. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
INDIGENOUS CULTURES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Who is the FUNAI? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Why Indigenous Peoples Have Disappeared. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Don’t They Own The Rainforest?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
The Indigenous Groups Themselves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Ayahuasca is Illegal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Great Harm Done . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Lifestyle Dependent on the Rainforest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Are They Like Canaries in a Mine?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Chapter 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
MEDICINAL PLANTS OF THE AMAZON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
When You Want True Healing, Use Amazon Herbs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Your Diet’s Origin: The Amazon Rainforest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
How the Amazonians Use Herbs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Shamans Have Areas of Specialty, Too. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Amazon Rainforest Herbs are More Powerful than European Versions. . . . . . . . . . . 121
How the Amazon Indigenous Tribes Use Medicinal Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Our Invitation to You. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Thank You!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
RESOURCES FOR AMAZON TRIP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
AIRPORTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Airlines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Buses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Boats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Interesting Places . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Aditional Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
VIDEOS THAT YOU MUST WATCH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Immigration Information About the Tri-Border . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
10
11
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
After attending his first year at the University of Costa Rica, in the early 80s,
Mynor was infected with the beautiful traveler’s disease, with results so far incurable. His first big trip started in Nicaragua, a country torn by war. He then crossed
the border to El Salvador, another country plagued by guerrilla warfare. After surviving the crossing of Central America and the Mexican desert, , Mynor came to the
USA, before finally settling in Canada. Since then, he has accumulated thousands
of miles, traveling around the Americas and other continents.
He has worked and lived in Mexico, Colombia, Paraguay, Costa Rica, and many
U.S. cities. Today, his home is in a suitcase, usually in a country or place between
Brazil and Costa Rica. Most recently, Mynor has spent over a year traveling the
world, mainly in South America, navigating several rivers in Colombia and Venezuela. It was there that he finally decided to achieve one of his most cherished
dreams: to navigate the mighty Amazon River from its inception in Peru to its flows
into the beautiful Atlantic coast of Brazil. After traveling in more than 60 countries, some of his favorite places are Thailand, Costa Rica, and China; but he lists
Colombia and Sweden as countries on the
list of places that everyone should visit
before they die. In his own country, his
favorite sights include visiting the active
Arenal Volcano and lying on the Manuel
Antonio beaches. Currently is writing
other books “Walking from Costa Rica to
the Amazon” and Amazon: Wisdom and
Life Lessons.
One of his most memorable travel experiences occurred when a herd of
monkeys stole his camera and lunch, while Mynor was enjoying the sea in Costa
Rica’s Pacific beaches.
To learn more about Mynor’s travel adventures and find out how you can have
some of your own, visit his website www.AmazonRiverExpert.com
Amazon
RiverExpert.COM
12
About This Book
Traveling the Amazon River from its origins in Peru to the river’s mouth on the
beautiful beaches of the Brazilian Atlantic coast was the most coveted trip of my life.
I had been traveling through Brazil, Columbia, Peru, and other countries for several
years before I decided that dreams are never more than dreams unless action is
taken to accomplish them.
In the spring of 2008, I left California, full of fears and questions, and set out to
realize my dream trip. I confess, despite the many other trips around the world that I
had taken, I was very nervous about this one. Mainly, because in preparation for this
trip, most of the books I read were either traveling tales of famous Spanish conquerors, usually with fatal outcomes, or modern excursions that always ended up losing
one or more of their team members to piranhas, yellow fever, or savage tribes.
I had many questions, because, after months of careful research, even the modern wonder of the Internet could not answer some of the most basic questions
about how safe this trip would be, how long it would take, and how many resources
I was going to need to complete the journey of the mighty Amazon from beginning
to end.
However, I built up my courage, packed more belongings than were needed,
and, of course, included lots of mosquito repellent, consisting of several brands, sizes, and types. I took a plane to Bogota, Colombia, with concrete plans for another
connecting flight to the jungle city of Leticia, which is in the Amazon jungle, where
the river forms a triple frontier between Peru, Brazil, and Colombia.
However, while in the capital city of Colombia, I was advised, quite wrongly, that
beginning the journey in the Colombian Amazon was very dangerous. Therefore, I
changed the start of the trip to Manaus, Brazil. Sometime later, and with many miles
already sailed in the world’s largest river, I returned to the city of Leticia in the triborder area, and, personally, I found that the city was not only charming, but it was
one of the safest areas that I have been anywhere in the globe. It is an area, not just
proudly protected by three powerful national armies, but it was also an area were
thieves do not have a place to hide, except in the unwelcoming jungle.
After a few days, I discovered Paradise, for it was here that I saw the most amazing flora and fauna throughout the tour of the largest and mightiest river in the
world.
After crossing the countries of Colombia and Venezuela by bus, I arrived in the
city of Boa Vista in Brazil, where I started this crazy journey down the Amazon. It was
not a regular trip, but the transformation of my life. At that moment, I had no idea
13
of the long lasting feelings that the beautiful people of the Amazonia were going
to leave me; neither did I foresee the shocking impressions that destruction of the
forest were going to create in me.
At that time, the only thing that was clear was that the bus would drive all night
through indigenous reservations. Maybe that was the reason that my heart beat
faster than usual, but, even though I was full of fears, it was too late to go back. I was
already in the middle of the jungle.
I really do not know exactly when those fears disappeared, but I remember that
very early in the voyage it became obvious to me that, thanks to advances in technology, transport, and communication, today the traveler does not have to be an
extreme adventure seeker, like Indiana Jones, to carry out this fascinating journey.
Indeed, in the early days, I got rid of my survival kit, including the machete, which
despite having sailed thousands of miles across this legendary river, I got to use a
total of zero times.
After numerous discussions with other adventurers from various countries, while enjoying a few drinks in a bar in the middle of the jungle and listening to some
of the latest hits from some British singers on the radio, we all came to the general
conclusion that everyone wished they would have had better information before
beginning their “expedition” into the Amazon.
And, thus, the idea for this book was born. With resignation and sadness for the
egos of our adventurers, we had to accept that today the Amazon is for everyone.
It is for infants and children, traveling with their parents. It is for college students,
traveling alone. It is for grandparents, looking for one last adventure. It is for anyone
who dreams such an adventure to be possible. Before it is too late, because of global
warming and excessive deforestation, everyone should travel the Amazon River and
experience the beauty and serenity that unfortunately are rapidly disappearing, due
to ignorance and greed.
Moreover, the only adventurous spirit required is the same one that you need
to visit a national park in the U.S., Australia, Costa Rica, or Europe. Today, right now,
you can experience one of the world greatest journeys down the mystic and mighty
Amazon River.
14
15
Chapter 1
INTRODUCTION
Why is this Trip the Most Beautiful Journey on Earth?
Traveling in the Amazon is a dream of millions of people from around the world.
The book that you hold in your hands will help you accomplish this dream and make
the trip easier, happier, and more affordable than you can imagine.
Obviously, there are still many people who relate the Amazon with nightmares
and wild adventure full of adrenaline. They imagine the piranhas, anacondas, and
other species unknown to us. They have heard stories about weird frogs with unicorn appendages. They have heard reports on the news about insects and wildlife
never discovered until now; ones that stun the scientists. However, modern advances in technology have brought the Amazon closer to you, and the days connecting
the Amazon trips to horror movies have been left behind.
Traveling is Easy Now… From Anywhere
Today and right now, you can conveniently catch a flight from anywhere in the
world and spend a couple of days in the Amazon rainforest. You could make a longer
journey, as I did, from the beginning of the river in Peru, through Colombia, and
follow the river its end at the beautiful beaches of Brazil’s Atlantic coast. Throughout this journey, you will discover that the Amazon is full of brilliant and magical
moments that will always make you feel very grateful for having given yourself the
opportunity to enjoy this natural wonder. Consequently, I wrote this book to show
you how to travel comfortably and happily, while creating the most memorable journey of your lifetime.
Because it is so easy, safe, and fantastic to visit and navigate the biggest river in
the planet, all sorts of extraordinary feats are being accomplished.
In April 2007, Mr. Martin Strel, at the age of 53, became the first person to swim
the entire Amazon River. This tells you that it is perfectly fine to be in the water, even
though people will tell you their versions of the dangers that lurk below the surface.
16
Mr. Strel swam the world record-breaking distance of 3,273 miles, which is longer
than the width of the Atlantic Ocean.
On your journey, you will not have to stay in the boat all the time. When you get
hot, take a dip into the refreshing waters of the Amazon and do so without the fear
of been eaten slowly and painfully by piranhas.
If you’re still thinking that it is dangerous to visit the Amazon, ask Mr. Ed Stafford,
a retired British Officer, who is now walking the complete length of the Amazon
River. When he finishes, it will be a world first. After already walking through the
Peruvian and Colombian portions of the riverbanks, he has recently entered Brazil
and is expected to be at the river’s end in Belem by mid 2010. His only complaint so
far has been the mosquitoes, during the one time that he ran out of repellent. Mr.
Stafford is a happy trekker now that he’s been re-supplied with repellent, which was
an easy remedy since any type of repellent usually keeps the mosquitoes away when
you’re in the Amazon.
You Can Surf in the Amazon
Allow me also to mention that there is surfing in the Amazon. During certain seasons, usually around January and February, you will find the most passionate surfers,
riding the “Pororoca.” This is a wave of up to 5 meters high, ranging up to 700 miles
inland upstream. One world record, related to the Amazon, is for surfing. Mr. Picuruta, a surfer from Brazil, rode the wave for more than 37 minutes, covering a distance
of more than 7.8 miles in the presence of an official Guinness judge.
Golfers Do Have a Few Precautions
You can also play golf in the Amazon, at the only club that will deliver a machete
when you start your first round. This field is a difficult adventure of nine par 5s. As
you can imagine, birdies and eagles are not as important as watching for snakes
hidden off the fairways, alligators in the bunkers, or piranhas lurking in the wells.
Additionally, please try to avoid the anacondas.
17
Start Your Trip with Confidence
There is much more about this unbelievable river, and I guarantee that you are
going to be delighted. Stop making excuses, buy some mosquito repellent, and bring
along your swimming trunks; because, when the heat gets tough, we will jump in
together with the Amazonians, young and old, and do a historical swim in the grand
Amazon. Now that’s something to write home about, especially since your friends
won’t know that the piranhas aren’t a danger unless you have an open wound.
So let’s start our trip full of confidence. You will be just fine, and, before you realize it, you will be back home and or back at your office, going through your normal,
everyday routine.
Today, the Amazon is available to all, and I promise that if you follow the recommendations in this book, you will be able to observe anacondas, piranhas, and other
great and unique species that will make your trip an experience you will remember
until the last days of your life.
18
What I Want to Do For You
After eradicating the fears and myths that I had about this trip, it took great
courage to finally make the trip to the Amazon River. During the trip, I noticed the
relief of stress that results once I had the right information. This was precisely the
initial motivation for writing this book. Far from being a travel guide; this is an invitation for you to realize your dream of traveling to the Amazon sooner than you think,
and do so by taking advantage of my experiences.
Let me show you how to do it safely, conveniently, and inexpensively. In addition, I will be presenting different routes, some wilder than others, and some routes
that are practically unknown, such as the chapter on how to reach the Amazon River
by bus. While you are reading this book, imagine that you are there in the Amazon,
talking to the local people, dancing the salsa on the riverboat, and boarding the plane. Taking an imaginary adventure in your mind is the first step to actually making
it a reality.
Nevertheless, the travel experience that I am proposing is not simply for you to
entertain yourself and enjoy the scenic beauty that this powerful river offers, but
an invitation to come on a journey that will make a positive difference in your life,
as it did in mine. Become more aware of the world’s environmental problems, the
preservation of our invaluable natural resources, our global warming issues, and the
current deforestation in the Amazon.
Why Should You Care?
Because, as we all know, this mystical river that forms the Amazon basin not only
benefits all the residents throughout South America, but it also improves the quality
of oxygen that we all breathe around the world, whether you live in Shanghai, Moscow, Sydney, or Mexico City.
Another grand reason to come to the remarkable Amazon, besides being mystified by its sheer beauty, is that it could become your labor of love. No, I am not going
to ask you to give away your money, but, without much effort, you could be doing
great good for other people. All you need to do are small things, such as buying your
souvenirs directly from the indigenous people, hiring their services, whenever possible, and small things of that nature.
Everybody seems to know that the Amazon is an immensely rich place, when
we consider the fact that there is no other place on the planet with so much biodiversity. However, few of us know that many people that live there lack some of the
most basic financial needs. When you travel here and practice green and sustainable
tourism, you will contribute greatly to their well-being. In fact, it has been proven in
the last few years that tourism helps eradicate poverty. With sustainable tourism, a
19
good percentage of the profits produced by your visit will remain within the participating communities. For that reason, I invite you to become involved in this lifetime
project, because, even if you were not able to come down to the Amazon, you would
still be doing something good for other people.
In my case, I do not want to become yet another exploiter, profiting from the
people of the Amazon. Thus, I am choosing to donate a major percentage of the
profits of this book to recycle resources back into the Amazonian community. At the
present time, I have chosen to donate at least 80% of the profifts generated by thie
sales of this book. I will help the Nariño Hospital in the Colombian Amazon jungle.
In addition, part of the profits will help the research department of the University of
Amazon in the city of Benjamin Constant in Brazil. In addition, The book sales will benefift the people of Peru, and the very poor community of Santa Rosa that is located
in the middle of the jungle, bordering Colombia.
Who This Book is For
I want to congratulate you for buying this book to navigate the Amazon River.
However, if you bought this book to plan your next big expedition to the Amazon,
then you might have the wrong book in your hands. You will need a book with a
much deeper understanding of the jungle.
I wrote this book for ordinary people, who want to admire and discover the
sheer beauty of the Amazon River, while enjoying a small trip to a single country or
touring the whole river from beginning to the end. It is also for grandparents who
want to surprise their grandchildren with an unforgettable geography lesson that
they will treasure forever. This is for those who want to understand the mysticism
developed by a place that has remained virtually unchanged for thousands of years.
This journey is also for ladies that want to be pampered by nature, while relating to
wildlife creatures, such as the docile and fragile pink dolphin. It is also an experience
for young college students who want to travel alone to a “remote” part of the globe,
while learning to dance to salsa music in Colombia or learn the samba in Brazil.
It is especially for those who want to discover the true beauty that exists within
them. I guarantee it will be an experience beyond your wildest dreams in a safe and
controlled environment.
Can You Take the Challenge? Will You?
Now here’s a special invitation for you: I invite you to come and fall in love with
some of the most beautiful and dazzling sunsets and sunrises on the planet. Let’s go
now!
20
This huge river is waiting for scientists, teachers, environmentalists, and entrepreneurs, but it is primarily for you to come before it is too late to enjoy one of the
most perplexing parts of the universe. What’s more, this directs enticement to the
corporate manager, stressed by the complexities of the modern world. Likewise, this
is a call to action for those of you who watch National Geographic and Discovery
Channel. I dare you to turn off the TV and come to live the adventure of your life in a
very safe, economical, and, yes, very comfortable vacation that will make you shine
in front of your friends. I want you to come, see, and experience the divinity of what
God’s hands are continuing to do here.
Take advantage and bring your children to
show them some of the most wonderful and
strange creatures in the world, like the turtle named “Matamala” that cannot be seen in
other parts of the planet. Friend, the world is
asking you to come and experience this magnificent rainforest so that you can still feel the pain
of so many trees being cut down daily.
Let your mind wander and be inspired by the simplicity of life; that is the key to
the happiness of the Amazon and all its inhabitants. Learn humbleness in this unexpected place, and see another intelligent way of living. Hopefully, you will be able to
apply these models as you go back home.
My Dear Friend, dreams do come true, and in the Amazon, anything is possible.
It is worth it, and all you need to do is to decide go right now. This trip has the power
and ingredients to transform your life. Lose your fears, and grab your backpack.
Now is the time begin your journey to the most unique and magical place.
21
Striking Facts that Will Leave You Speechless
•
The “mightiest of the giant rivers”, the Amazon River is 4,250 miles in length.
This is just a few miles longer than the 4,184 miles that makes up the Nile
River in Africa. The Amazon River also has the biggest debit of all rivers.
•
In 2001, the National Geographic Society found that the Nevado Mismi, located in the Peruvian Andes, was the source of water for the Amazon River.
The Amazon’s debit, at 200,000 cubic meters/second is 60 times larger than
the Nile’s: and, most importantly, because it delivers more than 20% of the
freshwater volume that makes its way into the oceans, it is of great value.
In one second, the Amazon pours more than 55 million gallons, or 600,000
cubic meters of water, into the Atlantic Ocean, which dilutes the ocean’s
saltiness for 100 miles from the shore.
•
The river rises in a glacial lake in the Peruvian Andes, at 18,363 ft above sea
level and only 100 miles off the Pacific coast. The locals call this stretch of
22
the river Apurimac, while some locals in Brazil call it Solimões. It extends
from the Andes Mountains in Peru, through Colombia, and then to the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil.
•
The Amazon has more than 1,100 tributaries along its course, some very
powerful. The volume of the Amazon is the same as the Mississippi River,
the Nile, and the Yangtze rivers combined, forming a layer of fresh water for
more than 100 miles into the Atlantic.
• The river enjoys summers in both hemispheres, and their water levels vary
greatly; because of the rains, the oscillation can reach more than 12 meters.
Each year, the Amazon River brings tons of solid particles deposited at its
mouth, giving food for fish. It is responsible for the creation of the world’s
largest river island, Marajo Island, which is approximately the size of Switzerland.
•
•
The Amazon is the widest river in the world. Its starting width is 300 miles,
and yet, many miles from its mouth, the Amazon River can be as wide as 25
miles in the wet season. This means that in some places you can’t see the
banks from the one side to the other.
At its mouth in the Atlantic, it widens to as much as 200 to 320 miles, depending on the season. Furthermore, every year, it widens up to 2 meters due to
the waves breaking the banks.
•
The river is also very deep and can reach depths up to 130 meters in some
places, making it possible for marine vessels to travel up to 2,400 miles inland.
•
The Amazon River flows through the center of the forest and feeds more
than two thirds of all fresh water sources found on earth. It also has more
than 22,000 miles of waterways and several million more miles navigable
by canoe through swamps and forests. In these areas, more than 3,000 fish
species have been identified; this is more species than throughout the Atlantic Ocean.
•
The Amazon is the mightiest and most bioactive natural phenomenon on
the planet. It is described as the “lungs of our planet” because it provides
the global environment of essential services, such as recycling carbon dioxide into oxygen. It is estimated that more than 20% of the Earth’s oxygen is
produced in the basin of this river.
•
The Amazon is home to many animals, especially “extreme” creatures, like
catfish, which weigh up to 40 lbs in the US. However, in Brazil, they have
been found to weigh more than 200
lbs. There are also the anacondas and
pirarucu fish (the largest of its kind)
and, of course, the piranha, which are
perhaps the most ferocious animal on
the planet.
I could go on and on mentioning all the
world records that are attributed to this giant
river, but, as mighty as it is, this river is, at the
same time, very fragile and gentle. In
addition and even with all the weird
creatures present in its water, today
more than ever, it is completely safe
and stress free to navigate the Amazon. Believe me; this sea of water will
reward you with fantastic sights and
unforgettable experiences. It is such
a vivid experience that a visit to the
river should be in everyone’s list of
places to see in their lifetime.
23
24
25
Chapter 2
THE BEST JOURNEY OF YOUR LIFE
Latin America is a magical land, where the world’s largest river has formed the
Amazon rainforest.
In this chapter, you will become familiar with the details related to navigation on
the river, whether you decide to make it a complete journey, from beginning to end,
or simply travel to one country or even to just one city. Whichever way you choose,
it will be a beautiful experience. Additionally, you will find a brief description of the
journey and everything you need for planning your own trip.
What to Expect in Upcoming Chapters
In the following three chapters, you can read more details for each of the three
sectors into which we have divided the journey.
In the Sector 1, we travel from the plains at the foot of the Peruvian Andes to
Colombia. It is here that the river forms the triple frontier between the countries of
Peru, Colombia, and Brazil.
Then, in the Sector 2, we will sail from Colombia to Brazil, more specifically from
the city of Leticia in the state of Amazonas, Colombia, to the city of Manaus (Amazonas’ state capital) in Brazil.
Finally, the last sector, Sector 3, will cover the journey from Manaus (one of
the most remote cities in Brazil) navigating through the town of Santarem, and, finally, the joy of navigating all the way to the end at the city of Belem at the Atlantic
Ocean.
In Chapter 6, you will find the description of the bus trip from Caracas (capital
of the Republic of Venezuela) to the city of Manaus. At this time, Manaus is the only
land access to this jungle city.
Finally, Chapter 7, called “The Wild Routes”, is only recommended for enthusiastic hard-core adventurers. These routes require more preparation because you
have to travel through mountains and forests for hundreds of miles just to reach a
26
gateway city in any of the above sectors. Just the journey to reach cities, like Iquitos
or Manaus, is an adventure by itself. What is included here are routes coming from
deep within the Peruvian Andes Mountains, as well as routes into the Amazon River
from Ecuador, specifically from the city of Coca.
Europeans who want to take advantage of their transatlantic flight can also find
value here. The two best routes to visit the Amazon River have been included. The
British who are coming to visit Georgetown in British Guyana prefer this first route;
from here, they can visit the city of Manaus. The last route is a trip for French people,
who usually fly directly from Paris to Cayenne, French Guiana. From here, they can
visit the Brazilian states of Amapá and Pará, in the most northern coast of Brazil,
to enjoy a visit to see the wide mouth of the Amazon River meeting the Atlantic
Ocean.
Trip Preparations
Please keep in mind that even though this is not an “expedition” to the Amazon,
obviously, it still requires a bit more preparation than a weekend city getaway. For
example, you must have your Yellow Fever vaccination with the respective certificate
to take along to show to border authorities when required.
On the other hand, keep in mind that if you use the gateway cities recommended in this book, the preparations for your trip are minimal. These towns, although
they are in the middle of the jungle, are equipped with everything that you might
need, including doctors, hospitals, pharmacies, supermarkets, clothing stores,
souvenir shops, opticians, liquor stores, restaurants, bars, clubs, Internet services,
international calling, and mobile services, and all types of transport services, including airports, and much more.
In fact, the smallest city gateway is Leticia. Combined with the population of its
neighbor towns in Brazil and Peru, this area has more than 70,000 inhabitants, plus
a good amount of daily visitors from neighborhood villages and tribes that come to
shop and sell their products in this tri-border area.
The Amazon Lifestyle
Before starting the journey, you must understand that the lifestyle in the Amazon is very simple in every way, so the chance that you will be able to wear your
Armani suit anywhere near the river is remote. I can almost guarantee that you will
end up using only half of the clothes that you take with you.
Keep in mind, that the weather in this part of the world is hot and humid throughout the year. Everybody dresses casually all the time, so, after a couple of days in
the Amazon, you’ll realize that nobody pays attention to your jewelry or any of your
27
fancy accessories. Nobody even cares if you are wearing the same clothes that you
wore yesterday.
For that reason, I guarantee that it will not be long before you adapt to local
customs, so you will most likely end up using your shorts and your favorite T-shirt the
whole time. You will also develop an unfailing friendship with your sandals.
The best advice that I can give you is to travel very light. Then you will have the
opportunity to buy some local items that can be used not only during your stay in the
jungle, but also take them home, impregnated with fabulous memories.
What You Must Bring
Honestly, the only items that you
must bring with you are your camera
to take pictures, your personal medications, your vaccinations, and your
passport with the required visas.
Everything else could be purchased
locally, especially in case you forget
something. The most important thing
to bring with you is an attitude of discovery and appreciation for the opportunity to be in one of the most coveted
destinations in the world.
Where Will You Start?
Once you choose your arrival city in Latin America, whether it is the city of Lima,
Bogota, or Manaus, it’s time to book your international flight. This can be done from
anywhere in the world, regardless if you are in Moscow, Sydney, Rome, or Los Angeles. If you decide to start your journey in Lima, Peru, then upon your arrival there,
you will take an hour and a half local flight to reach the jungle city of Iquitos, in the
state of Loreto of the Peruvian Amazon. If you decide on Colombia, upon arrival to
Bogota, you must take another domestic flight. Two hours later, you will be landing
in the city of Leticia, a city founded on the banks of the Amazon River.
If Brazil is your choice, upon your arrival in Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, you must
take one of several airlines that connect to Manaus. Only about three hours later,
you could be shopping at one of the many malls of the grand jungle city.
It is important to realize that once you reach the Amazon basin, there are no
roads to travel within the area. The waterways are the only form of transportation,
28
except for occasional charter.
Let us start this unforgettable journey right here where the Amazon begins.
FOR THE AMAZON RIVER, THERE MUST BE A BEGINNING
Where It Began Was a Controversy at One Time
Now there are two schools of thought about the birth of the world’s longest river. For years, people said that
the Amazon was born in an
indigenous community called
Comunidad Grau, closed to the
small City of Nauta, about 35
miles from the city of Iquitos
in the Peruvian Amazon state
of Loreto. However, a National
Geographic expedition certified
that the uninterrupted flow of
water that forms the Amazon
River is born high in the Andes
Mountains, officially giving the
Amazon River a total length of
4,250 miles.
In 1971, a National Geographic expedition, led by Explorer and Journalist Loren
McIntyre, identified Nevado Mismi as the source. That conclusion has been the reason for changing the National Geographic maps of the region ever since. Without
precise instruments, verification has proved elusive, and it is the subject of argument and speculation.
The source of the Amazon River was finally pinpointed by a five-nation National
Geographic expedition, using state-of-the-art Global Positioning System (GPS) navigational gear. Ned Strong of Lexington, Massachusetts, led four reconnaissance trips
in 1998 and 1999. Another team member, Piotr Chmielinski, was the first person to
navigate the entire length of the Amazon in 1991.
The point of origin of the mighty Amazon River is a trickle of water coming off a
cliff high on a slope of the Nevado Mismi, an 18,363-foot high mountain in southern
Peru.
The person in charge of the instruments that nailed it was Geographer Andrew
Johnston of the Smithsonian Institution’s National Air and Space Museum in Washington. The source of the river, he says, can be defined as the most distant point
29
in the drainage basin from which water runs year-round, or the furthest point from
which water could possibly flow into the ocean. The “Nevado Mismi fits both these
definitions.”
The team consisted of 22 people representing the United States, Peru, Canada,
Spain, and Poland. They explored all five of the remote Andean rivers that combine
to form the Amazon: the Apurimac, Huallaga, Mantaro, Maranion, and UrubambaVilcanota.
Traveling by foot, jeep, bicycle, and horseback, the expedition worked from a
base station near the confluence of several tributaries of the Apurimac River. They
used GPS gear to map the path of the Continental Divide, the boundary of the Amazon River drainage basin, and to map the area’s drainage features. Their instruments
were accurate within a range of 1-5 meters (3-6 feet).
Where We Will Start Our Journey and Why
However, we will start our journey in Nauta, Peru, where the Maranon and Ucayali rivers unite their waters. The only reason we begin our journey here is for the
convenience of travel, since west of the city of Iquitos, the routes are extremely difficult for the ordinary tourist. I will briefly cover them later in the Chapter 7.
30
For ease of planning your trip, we will divide the river into three separate areas
as follows:
Sector Divisions
Origin
Destination
SECTOR 1
IQUITOS, Loreto,
Perú
LETICIA, Amazonas,
Colombia
SECTOR 2
LETICIA, Amazonas,
Colombia
MANAOS, Amazonas,
Brasil
SECTOR 3
MANAUS, Amazonas,
Brasil
BELEN, Para, Brasil
According to my travel experiences along the river, although the first sector is
the smallest of the three, Sector 1 is the most rewarding because of the large number and variety of flora and fauna. In addition, this sector will detail the trip from
Iquitos, continuing downstream for amazing scenery, until we reach the village of
Santa Rosa, the last village in the Peruvian Amazon River, which is opposite the city
of Leticia, Colombia. This city borders the small town of Tabatinga, Brazil, forming
the area better known as the Triple Frontier. It is at this precise point where the river
joins the three bordering countries Peru, Colombia, and Brazil.
And Later to Come…
In the next chapter, Sector 2, travel starts in this tri-border area and we will head
to the city of Manaus, the largest city in the Amazon in Brazil.
In Chapter 5, we discover the details of the last 1000 mi from Manaus to the city
of Belem in the Brazilian state of Pará; with an intermediate stop in the city of Santarem to visit the spectacular golden beaches of Alter do Chao. At the end of this long
journey, we arrive at the Atlantic Ocean, and that is where the city of Belem lies. It’s
a modern city of over two million people with a very busy barge port, located where
the Amazon River finally ends.
In Belem, you can go shopping and enjoy the vivid nightlife. In addition, and just
in case, you are tired of sleeping in hammocks; the city offers several five star hotels
to welcome you back to modern civilization. Belem has been a very important port,
fundamental to Brazil’s development for centuries. It houses all kinds of museums,
focused on everything from slavery to modern art.
In Belem, there are many tourist attractions, and you can connect by land to
anywhere in Brazil. Part of the last sector will detail many activities found in this
31
beautiful and vibrant city.
What Sector Sounds Good to You Right Now?
Have you already made a decision about which sector of the river you will enjoy
while visiting the Amazon? Do you want to taste the fabulous seafood in Peru, while
escaping to the ruins of Machu Pichu? Better yet, will you take salsa-dancing classes
in Colombia, during the afternoon, and/or, in the evening, enjoy the rhythms of samba in Brazil? Alternatively, you may have been practicing Portuguese language skills,
since you’ve already decided to embark on a 100% Brazilian adventure.
On the other hand, maybe you are one of those lucky travelers with lots of time,
energy, and resources to travel the river from start to finish. Whatever your decision
may be, keep reading for information that you will need to help you achieve your
traveling goals with lots of fun.
In the following chapters, we will discover together how much money and time
is needed to develop each of the segments. At the end of the book, I will also give
details of the transportation company so that you can confirm pricing and schedules before you travel. However, you will notice that things change very little in the
Amazon.
In addition, I will let you know any special considerations that you need to have,
especially concerning your safety. However, I can give you a heads up: the Amazon
is a very safe place in every way, whether you are in Peru, Colombia, and/or Brazil.
You will probably feel much more secure than in most cities in the world. To have a
wonderful experience, all you need is to exercise the same cautions that you would
in Madrid, Chicago, or Buenos Aires.
A Tip to Bring You Travel Pleasure
The recommendations that I make are based on my own travel experiences and
those of many other travelers that I have met during my trips. One of the most important tips that I would give you right now is to have as much contact with the locals
as you can. So many foreigners have this
experience: By the time they jump in their
first Amazonian boat, they are so scared
or are in a state of culture shock that they
never want to mingle with the locals. The
result is they come across as rude or impolite, which makes them easy prey of unscrupulous people. The best thing that you can
do is befriend as many locals as possible,
and they, in turn, will end up protecting you
32
from the “undesirable” people that usually are well identified by the locals.
Tips About Reading This Book
To make reading easier, we will use miles (mi) as the unit of measurement of
distances and US dollars (US $) for all prices. Conversions were made at the official
exchange rates at around January 2010.
Remember This about Your Visa
Remember that you must have a valid passport for international travel, with
the respective visas to enter the countries you plan to visit. Surely, you cannot get
visas in the jungle towns; you must have them before your trip starts. Also, keep in
mind that the citizens of the USA, Canada, Japan, and many other countries must
obtain visas before entering Brazil. Only if you plan to stay in the tri-border area, this
will not be required. Colombia and Peru, at present, do not require a visa for U.S.
citizens, but it is highly recommended to check the conditions before leaving their
country. Also, do not forget to bring your certificate of vaccination against yellow
fever, which is required before entering any of these countries.
If you have your passport up to date and in good condition with the required
visa, then your immigration and customs formalities will go very fast and pleasant.
Also, do not forget to bring the certificate of vaccination against yellow fever, as
authorities will require it at the point of entry. However, malaria or any other vaccinations are not required, and are not recommended.
In addition, the boat ticket price includes meals on board and is a great opportunity to become familiar with the local cuisine. However, if you do not like rice, beans,
or other foods enjoyed by the locals, do not worry. Onboard, there is a small store
with sandwiches, cookies, sodas, cold beer, and other things favored by tourists.
These can be purchased at very inexpensive rates. Needless to say, if you have unique food preferences, bring your own snacks and fruit for this short journey.
In general, the above rates include meals on board to give you an opportunity to
taste what the locals eat every day. If you do not like rice, beans, or part of the local
cuisine, do not worry, because in the ship there are small shops that sell sandwiches,
cookies, sodas, and cold beer at affordable prices, usually around $1 or $2 per item.
If you are very fussy about your food, prepare and bring your own food.
Decisions Will Be Easier by the End of the Book
What sector is the best one to visit is always the big question. It’s a question
that has equally viable and exciting answers and can be overwhelming for travelers
to decide.
33
Finally, I share with you that the main demand of the people who knew I was
writing this book was to recommend to them the best sector to visit. Due to the impressive size of the river, it is overwhelming for most people to decide the best place
to start their journey. This book will help to point you in the right direction
The Amazon Basin is Vast and Expansive
This book is only about how to navigate the Amazon River and does not refer to
the entire Amazon basin, which has a presence in nine countries. Secondly, I hope
you enjoy the river from start to finish, an experience that will change your life forever. Because most travelers have a limited amount of time, usually no more than
10 to 20 days, I highly recommend Sector 1 from Iquitos, Peru, to Leticia, Colombia.
This part of the Amazon River is the least traveled by ships and boats, and it is where
you have the best chance to see the best flora and fauna of the Amazon. In addition,
more than 60, friendly, indigenous groups inhabit this area with the great majority
being descendants of the Indian tribes of the Ticunas, Boras, Huitotos, and other
ethnicities.
Another great advantage of Sector 1 is that you will cut travel time in half for the
trip to Manaus from anywhere in the US, Canada, or Europe. The vast majority of
these flights must have connections in San Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. Instead of spending two additional days in travel, invest your time in the jungle. Another important
advantage is that the cities of Iquitos and Leticia are very affordable, compared to
Manaus and Belem. Finally, the exchange rate in Colombia and Peru are far more
favorable than the local currency is in Brazil.
Are You a Park Lover?
Nevertheless, the main reason is that this area has access
to some of the most impressive
natural parks throughout the
Amazonia. From Iquitos, about
60 miles away, you could visit the
fantastic natural reserve of Pacaya-Samiria. From Tabatinga and
only two hours deep into Brazilian
territory, you will find the Natural
Reserve of Palmira that will delight you with the wild Amazon beauty. While you are in Leticia, it is practically mandatory to visit the National Park Amacayacu, 90 minutes away by boat transportation.
There you can experience a much closer encounter, not only with endemic plants and
animals, but also with local tribes who handle the administration of this park.
34
Is Colombia Safe?
Until recently, the political situation in Colombia was unstable, and the country
as a whole was not recommended as a tourist destination. However, during the last
10 years, Colombia has greatly improved their situation. After personally traveling to
all major cities in Colombia, I can assure you that it is a safe destination.
Popular Travel Destination
In 2007, more than 1.6 million tourists that visited mainly Cartagena and San Andres, on the Atlantic coast, in addition to the Amazon, visited Colombia. These destinations have always been far away from problem areas, and, today, they are even
safer places. The city of Leticia is only accessible by boat or plane, and it is protected
by national armies from the three countries that form the triple border, alienating
any illegal activity that would want to hit the area. Antisocial individuals have no
place to run, except the jungle, a very unattractive hiding place for criminals.
After making several trips to the city of Leticia, I can assure you that there is
virtually no crime in this city or its vicinity.
If we take into account the variety and quantity of animals, plants, and marine
life, accessibility to many tribes, the ease and speed of access, and the great value
that you get for your money, I highly recommend you visit this part of the Amazon.
Whether you want to go upstream from Leticia to Iquitos or you slip downstream
from Peru to Colombia, either way I guarantee you will be extremely satisfied.
Therefore, let us wait no longer and come with me to Iquitos, Peru, to start this
historic journey, visiting this mystical giant named the Amazon River.
35
36
N
Requena
Puerto Arica
IQUITOS
Zona Reservada
de Apahuayo
Nauta
Saquena
Flor de
Agosto
Indiana
PERU
COLOMBIA
Benjamin
Constant
LETICIA
Tabatinga
BRAZIL
37
Chapter 3 FROM PERU TO COLOMBIA, NAVIGATING
THE MOST REMOTE WATERS OF THE AMAZON
SECTOR 1
The magic of this sector is that there is so much biodiversity here. While you’re
on your trip, at times, you will have a sense of having reached the end of the earth.
By that, I mean that it’s somewhat similar to taking a trip to Jurassic Park. Don’t
worry, though, because it will not be long before you are brought back to reality by
the thunderous noise of thousands of motorcycles if you happen to be in Leticia or
Iquitos. It is worth mentioning that, for city dwellers, the bustle of the city is always
welcome after spending the first few days in the jungle, listening only to “strange
noises”, while amongst the plants.
Sector 1 does offer some convenience. You could begin your morning in bed
just relaxing at your hotel, enjoy a steaming, delicious coffee, and connect to your
computer to greet friends, while enjoying the comforts at the luxury hotels. In just a
few hours, you will discover one of the many nature reserves, such as Micos Island
(Monkey Island) or Pacaya-Samiria, a place where you feel as if you’ve traveled back
in time hundreds of years.
It is an understatement to say that Sector 1 is one of the most gorgeous parts of
the Amazon. The low and usually slow nautical traffic still allows you to see some of
the most wild and striking wildlife without even getting off the boat.
Up Close and Personal to Indigenous Tribes
In Sector 1, you will enjoy the span of the river and see some extensive parts
that measure more than 10 mi from one side to another. At the same time, when
the water level is low, you will be able to detect the unbelievable drop in water level
where, at some points, the indigenous colonies are living several feet above your
boat. The difference between the geography when the river is full and when the
river is low is about a height of about two floors! That’s a lot, and it’s exciting as a
traveler. It’s possible that your trip down the river could be vastly different than what
you see on the way back, depending on the season.
38
Pretty Pink Dolphins to Giant Pirarucu
This is the sector where you will have the best chances to admire pink dolphins,
giant tortoises, and small turtles, such as the endemic Matamala, also known as the
turtle of the Amazon. You can go fishing in search of giant Pirarucu, the largest fish
of the Amazon, which can weigh over 400 kg or 880 pounds. Additionally, in Micos
Island (Monkey Island), get ready to observe many types of primates that took this
island as their own refuge a few decades ago.
In the Natural Reserve of Pacaya-Samiria, you can spend time with a few tribes
in the Amazon, without applying for any special permit to visit them. On the Brazilian side, only two hours by boat from Tabatinga, you can choose to visit and stay
overnight in the Natural Reserve Palmari. Once in Palmari Reserve, safe tours can be
arranged to go deeper into the jungle to visit some of the neighboring tribes, but I
will give you more details about this Palmari Reserve in the next chapter.
Birdlife the Whole World Admires and Envies
The more common and colorful creatures of the rainforest, such as cockatoos,
parrots, and papagallos are absolutely delightful here. Their colorful beauty has given even fame to this rainforest; it saturates the environment along with their tireless chattering and endless, harmonic songs.
Flowers That Seem Out of This World
If you like exclusive flowers and unique plants, you will be amazed while admiring many. The floating Victoria Regia is the world’s largest water lily with six feet
round leaves and a beautiful white flower that only blooms during a full moon.
Scenic Excursions that are Absolutely Wonderful
The most important characteristic of this sector is that it is wild. However, it is
very convenient and very safe. From here, you can also make special trips to some
of the most beautiful eco-hotels that you can imagine, but, usually, to reach them
requires several hours of walking through the forest. What you do need to know, in
greater detail, is that to truly capture the beauty, the essence, and the sensational
smells and colors of this enchanted forest, you may have to do a couple of short
walks in either of the different national parks or the natural reserves.
As you travel through this vast sea of fresh water, whether you do it on a slow
boat or a speedboat, remember to be vigilant in search of the elusive pink dolphins,
giant tortoises, and other animals typical of this area. More importantly, alert your
senses, and create unforgettable memories with the help of your camera and your
39
notebook, but especially record them in your heart. Remember, at all times, that this
is a once in a life journey; even though the Amazon is very special, it still remains a
very remote place. Chances are, perhaps this will be your only visit. This perspective
will prove very useful when the heat, mosquitoes, and other little things may be bothering you, while waiting for your already delayed ship to lift anchors.
At this point, you should remember that this trip represents a unique privilege
for you, because there is no guarantee that with the destructive power of our generation, there will be much left 20 years from now. So enjoy the beauty and the magic
of the jungle while you can, and do not let the minor inconveniences pollute your
beautiful vacation.
Getting There and Getting Around
By Air :
As in most cities in the jungle, usually, there are no roads leading to them. The
two cities in this sector (Iquitos and Leticia) are no exception. However, both have
excellent air transportation.
The city of Iquitos can easily be reached from Lima, the capital city of Peru.
Currently, several local airlines serve Iquitos; among them, STARPERU and LanPeru complete at least eight direct
flights every day. Back in Iquitos
there are even more flights; planes
in route to Lima that may stop in
Iquitos to refuel, picking up passengers at the same time. Well-trained
pilots and professional crews that
use very modern and comfortable
Boeing 737s, with a capacity for no
less than 160 passengers, fly the
planes.
Due to the popularity of these routes, the prices are quite affordable, around
$100 for any air flight between Lima and Iquitos. During low season, it’s possible to
obtain a one-way ticket for less than $70.
Here’s an important money-saving tip: If you purchase tickets for the Peruvian
local flights in your hometown, whether the USA, Canada, or Europe, then you will
most likely be paying about $300 extra for each segment. Therefore, my recommendation is that after buying your international air ticket, (do not pay more than $400
from your home city in America, $600 from Europe, or $800 from Asia and Oceania),
visit the local airline websites that are listed at the end of this book, and buy directly
from those local airlines. Save at least $500, and, with that money in the Amazons,
40
you could live very comfortably for nearly a month.
At the other end of Sector 1, the city of Leticia conveniently has two excellent local airlines with daily service from the capital city of Bogota. Keep in mind that from
Bogota you can do all your international connections and all your local connections
to any Colombian city, just in case you decide to escape to the beautiful Caribbean
beaches of Cartagena or San Andres.
There are two important local airlines, Satena and Aero Republica. The Colombian government operates Satena. Aero Republica is more reliable, and it is part of
Continental Airlines. Aero Republica connects with all major Colombian cities, and it
has worldwide connections through Panama, Houston, and New York, which are the
international hubs of Continental Airlines and COPA. Although Continental Airlines
partly owns Aero Republica, you must purchase tickets through Aero Republica if
you want to take advantage of the savings offered by the local rates.
From the city of Tabatinga, Brazil, there is the possibility of booking air flights
bound for Manaus. See more detailed information about this city in the following
chapter.
Finally, across the river and on the other bank of the Amazon, is the town of
Santa Rosa in Peru. Here, the only air services to be found are very irregular military
flights that are not always commercially available. It is not wise to plan your journey
using this service. Actually, Santa Rosa has no commercial airline service, so the only
form of transportation available to residents of Santa Rosa is to navigate upriver to
Iquitos, which seems to be the last frontier for the Peruvians.
River Transport :
Once you arrive at your connecting city in the jungle, you can only navigate
through waterways. In this
sector, you have two options
to enjoy the giant among
giants – the Amazon River:
two different types of boat
travel. The most common
option is to take the slow cargo ships. This is what most of
the local population chooses,
as they are less expensive.
The second option is to take
the speedboats. Generally,
tourists prefer the faster, all
exclusive passenger (no car-
41
go onboard) speedboats.
The cargo ships depart for travel frequently, at least four times a week; and,
usually, they take two full days to travel the 260 mi that separate the cities of Iquitos
and Leticia. Remember to add an extra day to the time spent onboard if you reverse
the trip. From the city of Leticia to Iquitos, the boat will navigate against strong Amazon River currents. The cost of the ticket is less than $25, and it includes a place to
hang your hammock and meals on board.
Generally, locals, students, and people who really want to experience the Amazon detail by detail prefer the cheap transport on cargo vessels. If you have the time
to travel through this sector, then make one trip on the slow boat and take the return
trip on the speedboat.
Here’s an Alternate Plan
Another way to enjoy this area is to book your flight arrival in Bogota, Colombia,
and the departure flight from Lima, Peru, or vice versa. If you use an air transport
company that provides service to both cities, such as American Airlines, Continental Air, Delta, COPA, TACA, and other European companies, the difference in price
should be minimal. (A good place to check for airfare is www.Expedia.com)
The preferred way for most tourists, who always seem in a hurry, is the speedboat that travels every day, connecting major communities between the cities of
Iquitos and Leticia. The cost each way is around $63 per person; and, in only 10
hours, you arrive at your destination. The ticket price also includes a quick breakfast
and a lunch served aboard. Onboard you will find the latest “Hollywood” blockbuster hit from China or Bombay playing.
Daily, only one speedboat travels in each direction, leaving very early in the morning to arrive in the afternoon at your destination. Generally, the departure time is
5:00 am with arrival time around 2:40 pm. At the end of this book, you will find more
information about contact info and websites, so you can refresh these schedules
before departing your hometown.
Remember the Basics
The boat will depart from the main port of Iquitos, and a mototaxi, the normal
mode of transportation in most Amazonian cities, will charge you $2 from anywhere
in the city to drop you off there. However, be aware that they drive like crazy, but do
not worry. After a couple of scares, you will safely arrive at your destination.
Two companies, Transtour and Golfhino, offer passenger boat service between
42
Iquitos and the tri-border area. The two
companies are very reliable and bring
safe service every day, traveling in opposite directions. As an example, on Monday the Golfhino Company travels from
Iquitos to Leticia when the ship spends
the night in the tri-border area. The next
day it reverses the trip upriver, while the
other company, Transtour, runs the river
downstream from Iquitos.
No Need to Fear Being Stranded
Every day, the two boats journey in opposite directions. This is encouraging to
visitors that are a little skittish about being in a largely remote area. It’s possible
that the boat could break down or other mechanical failures could occur. The fear
is that you will be stranded. However, with boats journeying in opposite directions,
you’re always just a boat away from being rescued. And here’s something else you
should know – the riverboat business must go on for people to earn a decent living.
Because of that, they will do everything possible to keep the boats operational and
well-tuned machines.
These passenger boats travel quite fast and are very comfortable, with space
for 15 to 20 passengers. They are captained by people of considerable experience,
properly trained and authorized. Commonly, the captains and the rest of their crew
are residents of the area, with an intrinsic knowledge and vast Amazon familiarity,
wisdom accumulated over the years of having grown up on the River. In general,
these faster boats only stop at some indigenous communities to leave or pick up
passengers, but occasionally make “pit stops” to leave parcels with stranded fishing
boats.
You are Interesting to the Indigenous Peoples
Every ship that arrives is the event of the day in those communities. Consequently, all the villagers, most of them Indians, dressed in shirts and jeans, flock daily
to the harbor to watch what is going on. Their interest is to know who came, who is
leaving, and, above all, what new food supplies are arriving. Therefore, this is a great
opportunity to take photos of how the natives live. The best time is when the river is
at its maximum level between June and October.
Time to Learn Salsa
You’ll reach your destination in Santa Rosa in Peru, in the tri-border area, about
10 hours later. Here you will be surprised by the large activity and the crowds of
people that you will find, mostly at the other side of the river, along the coast of Co-
43
lombia and Brazil. During the day, the ports
are filled with fishermen, traders, beggars,
and other characters
common to commercial
ports. At night, restaurants and dance clubs
in the three countries,
but mainly in Colombia
and Brazil, will come alive with loud Latin and
Brazilian rhythms coming from restaurants
and bars. This is a real
opportunity to learn to
dance salsa and enjoy an
all-night Latin party with tropical flavor. Do not worry if you’re not very skilled in
these dances, since it is having a good time that counts most.
The Apex of 3 South American Countries
To exit the small village of Santa Rosa, take a small boat that costs about a dollar
to cross the river to the cities of Leticia in Colombia or to Tabatinga in Brazil. These
two small border towns are the international borders of two great countries separated only by a modest street called Avenida da Amizade (Friendship Avenue). Moreover, this is one of the few places on earth where you can visit three South American countries in less than one hour. How much fun it will be for you to have breakfast
in Colombia, lunch in Peru, and dinner in Brazil without much travel time at all!
Although this is a remote area of the world, at each end of this sector, you will
find a city with all the comforts and needs expected of any medium-sized town anywhere in the world. Nevertheless, we will cover this end of the trip later on when
we come back to this area.
What to Know about Iquitos
The city of Iquitos is surprisingly large, and, here, we will begin our journey in
sector 1 until we reach Santa Rosa, Leticia, and Tabatinga.
The city of Iquitos is home to approximately half a million people in the middle
of the Peruvian jungle. The city is very hot, with high humidity all year long. Iquitos is
located in the middle of nowhere, but it is full of fun activities for visitors. There are
plenty of hotels in all categories, with comfortable and modern services, including
44
business centers with wireless Internet and services
for international calls.
In Iquitos, there are all
kinds of stores to provide
you with items you need to
survive in the jungle or the
city. The restaurants, some
of them of internationally
acclaimed, can be found
on almost every corner,
along with pharmacies,
bakeries, liquor stores, supermarkets, travel agencies, taxis, and buses to the nearby districts outside the city.
Iquitos has several different health centers and two hospitals, one for civilians
and one for the military. The military hospital inside the base of the Peruvian Navy
could be used for major emergencies.
As part of a fun day, golfers can have a unique experience, playing their favorite
sport in the middle of the Amazon. In this beautiful and challenging Iquitos nine-hole
course, you will play in the midst of the waters of the Amazon and in a lush forest,
which includes water wells with real piranhas and sand traps with an occasional alligator. So bring enough balls, because, if you are a poor golfer, you can become lunch
for the anaconda. In addition, many hotels boast magnificent tennis courts, like the
magnificent facilities of the Club de Tennis de Iquitos.
At night, the businesses of the city decrease their rhythm, but other night activities, like dancing, dining, and walking along
the river are common practices among locals and tourists. As with any other major
city, it is necessary to exercise caution at
night, especially if traveling alone. However, overall, this is still a very safe city, as
most cities in the jungle.
A Bit of History Awaits You
As we all know, in late 1880 the “rubber boom” brought a great economic prosperity to the entire Amazon region until its decline in 1912. Still the legacy of the
era of rubber can be seen in the architecture of elegant mansions imported from
Portugal and other European cities. Moreover, if these mansions in the middle of the
45
jungle do not impress you, then you probably will be surprised to find the engineer
Eiffel’s house. (Yes, this is the same Mr. Eiffel who designed the Eiffel Tower in Paris.)
The place is called The Iron House, and it is just one of many surprises waiting for
you in the Amazon.
Unfortunately, for the locals, today, there is not much left from the “good old
days” when the wealthy people of the city used to send precious mahogany wood
from the jungle to Italy to be carved with exquisite designs by famous Italian artists.
This carved wood was then returned back to Iquitos to be used in the construction of
their mansions. I am sure, some of you will be surprised by the opulence in the midst
of the jungle, but you will also be stunned by how hectic this jungle city is. There
are thousands of motorcycles, creating all kinds of sounds at very high decibels. In
addition, Iquitos is one of the largest cities in the world that is not accessible by road;
to get there, you must fly in or use the waterways that the Amazon River system has
throughout Latin America.
To escape the noise from the mototaxis in
Iquitos, take refuge in the local historical buildings, such as the Amazon Museum, built in
1863. The museum contains wonderful artwork
and old photographs, belonging to the late nineteenth century, which enables you to view
Iquitos in its glory days. Moreover, you must go
to the Belem market and visit Pasaje Paquito.
You must go with a local guide, who will explain
how, for the last hundreds of years, the Amazon
citizens have used local medicinal plants to cure any disease known to them.
The Shamans are Available to You
Personally, I have seen many times how their advice is sought even from distant
lands, not just in America, but also from Europe. However, let me caution you. Lots
of humility is needed to listen to these wise old men, some with ragged looking clothes. They are constantly sought out by scientists, mainly from major pharmaceutical companies in the world, who are always looking for the “miracle” cures that have
been in possession of these Shamans for many centuries.
After a couple of days spent enjoying Iquitos, and once you overcome the initial
culture shock, be prepared to leave this noisy town with its millions of horns and
sirens and finally dive deeper into the jungle. However, before going to Colombia
or Brazil, you should head west, and go up the river to visit a couple of fascinating
places on the outskirts of Iquitos. One is the important and beautiful natural reserve of Pacaya-Samiria and the other is a visit to the indigenous community of Grau,
the former birthplace of the Amazon River. Once you have completed these short
46
trips upstream, then you will be ready to head downstream to the Colombia-Brazil
border.
For now, let us navigate the Amazon River about 90 miles towards the Andes
Mountains to find one of the most impressive reservations in the world.
Pacaya-Samiria – Discover How the People Live
Not only is this the largest water reserve
in Peru, but it is also one of the most important areas for the world because of its great
biodiversity. The Peruvian government, since
1940, has protected the Pacaya-Samiria basin,
formed by a couple rivers, and, still today, the
reserve is only accessible by boat. It has an
area of 5,139,680 hectares, equivalent to the
size of New Jersey in the United States. The reserve is shaped like a triangle, situated at the
confluence of the Maranon and Ucayali. For
many years, it was said to be the birthplace of
the Amazon River, but now, thanks to the new
satellite technology we know that those calculations were wrong.
The reserve has more than 80 lakes and
about 50,000 people living on it, the majority of the Indians in villages are located
along the edge of the reserve or around the lakes, and only a few live in the depths
of the reservation. The average family consists of eight to ten people who live in
houses made from materials found in the forest. Its main survival supplies consist of
plantain, cassava, and fish (their basic diet).
The reserve is formed by three watersheds, including Samiria, Yanayacu, and
Pacaya, and has several communities. The most accessible and visited are listed below.
Veinte de Enero – Observe the People
This is the entry point of the reserve and the
most accessible; with a human presence that is
clearly strongly related to nature. Some places in
Amazon are polluted by white people. In other places, you’re welcome, but don’t pollute. Be like them,
follow their rules, and be peaceful with nature. Most
notable in this indigenous community is that they
conduct almost all their activities in a very sustaina-
ble way, using wisely, for centuries, local natural
resources and reforestation.
Yarina – Haven for Photographers
An ideal place for a photographic expedition
and bird watching, the Yarina territory has an area
of “rescue of the environment”, where different
species are rescued from the grip of extinction. Its
high level of biodiversity characterizes the area.
Yarina tribes are also known for their expertise in
the activities of sustainable resource exploitation.
Manco Capac – Fishing Resort
Manco Capac is the largest lake. This is the
place where organized groups of fishermen practice sustainable living and mainly fish for “Paiche”,
or pirarucu as it is known in Brazil. This lake offers
an unforgettable view of the Amazon rainforest,
giving also great opportunities for photography.
However, you must follow the recommendations
of natives, as the locals are officially responsible
for overseeing any tourist activity. Don’t get any
ideas that you can hold any wild parties – it’s their
turf!
Community of Grau – Lookout Point
Before leaving the city of Iquitos, I recommend
visiting the community of Grau. Climb the 120 feet
lookout structure for a panoramic view of the “old
birthplace of the Amazon River. From the city of
Iquitos, you can take a bus for less than a dollar or
take a shared-taxi with air conditioning, which is
quicker and will cost about $5 each way. The 60 mi
distance will take approximately 75 minutes, via
the only paved highway in thousands of miles.
Once in the small city of Nauta, you can take
one of the local regular service boats to Community Grau, at a cost of $2 per trip, but
note that the regular service is offered more
frequently during the morning hours. If you
arrive after noon, you may need to rent a
private boat that will take you to Grau for
less than $25 round trip.
47
48
As mentioned before, based on the National Geographic expedition of 1972 and
today’s modern satellite equipment, we now know that the Amazon originates closer to heaven, up in the Andes Mountains. The Nevado del Mismi is the place that
was firmly established by the National Geographic expedition, as the source of the
Amazon River, near 18,360 feet high and 100 mi west of Lake Titicaca, and nearly 250
mi southeast of Lima.
What is undeniable is the fantastic view brought by the convergence of these
two huge rivers. Each mighty on their own, the meeting of their water is as impressive as the Ucayali River from the Ecuadorian Andes. The Marañón River, as the locals
call it, is the same Amazon River that comes from the Peruvian Andes.
After visiting the reserve and having done these short tours, begin your journey
downstream to Colombia. During the tour, you will see many striking villages from
the boat, or you could visit some of them located along the way. The most accessible and easiest to visit are closer to the cities of Iquitos and Leticia. This is why it is
more convenient to use these cities as a main base for traveling to these indigenous
communities established along the Amazon’s shore, as some of these indigenous
communities may not have the tourist infrastructure necessary for your comfort.
In any case, read on to discover which of these communities have adequate
infrastructure so that you and your family can enjoy your visits. Some of the main
communities are listed below.
Pevas, Peru – Authentic Crafts
The small town of Pevas is the oldest European settlement in the Peruvian Amazon. When you visit this community, don’t neglect to visit the neighboring indigenous communities of Bora and Huitoto, which are located just downstream. Here
you can see how people live in these indigenous reservations and observe them
in their flamboyant outfits, while they dance their traditional dances in a Maloka,
which is the main home of any Indian reservation.
You also have the opportunity to view and purchase authentic crafts, including
beautiful paintings of jungle scenes made in bark cloth, handbags, jewelry, fabrics of
all types, and hammocks. Respect their traditions and purchase these items directly
from the indigenous people whenever possible, as this simple gesture helps their
communities and keeps them faithful to their traditions.
Caballo Cocha, Peru – Piranha Fishing
The city’s name is a combination of Spanish and Quechua, meaning “horse of
the lake.” It has an approximate population of 4,223 inhabitants, including the mission town on Lake Caballo Cocha. Here, as in most lakes of the regions, you can take
a trip to see the Victoria Regia and concurrently observe a population living in close
harmony with the jungle environment. This is where you have the opportunity to go
49
fishing for piranhas, since usually these fish are found in greater numbers near the
dark-water lakes, such as Lake of Caballo Cocha.
Puerto Nariño, Colombia – Great Architecture and Alligators
Approximately 35 miles before reaching the city of Leticia, a small Colombian
community is located, consisting of approximately 4,000 people, called Puerto Nariño. The people are mostly Ticunas Indians, but you’ll find other ethnic groups as
well. This beautiful and friendly community is known as “The Portal of Colombia”
because of its beautiful architectural structure. It has very good hotels, restaurants,
internet access, and more. Here you can do many activities, but among the most
popular is the observation of crocodiles and piranha fishing.
In the evening, you can take a memorable tour, and, with the help of a flashlight,
you will see the glowing red eyes of alligators living in the lakes. At the same time,
you will feel and live the profound darkness and silence of the jungle, accompanied
by night birds and thousands of fireflies, which will escort you and illuminate your
path home.
In Puerto Nariño, there are many opportunities to purchase and exchange authentic items made completely by hand, and manufactured with raw materials from
the forest, which the Indians used to make natural paintings, jewelry, and hammocks,
as well as unusual musical instruments and canoes.
Amacayacu National Park – Tamarins and Turtles for Sports
Enthusiasts
The Amacayacu National Park is located along the
Amazon River in the southern part of Amazonas, only
25 miles west of the city of Leticia. The word “Amacayacu” means “river of hammocks” in the indigenous language, Quechua. What gives a wonderful authenticity to this national park is that
currently it is inhabited by the indigenous
Ticunas, who retain their ancestral customs
and help operate the park.
Amacayacu Park is the habitat of
the lion Tamarin (Leontopithecus Rosalia), the smallest primate on Earth.
It’s the home of giant freshwater
turtles and several different types
of crocodiles. The main attraction
here is the exquisite, varied, and
abundant wild animals and vegeta-
50
tion. Look for jaguars and tapirs as well. Sports enthusiasts have the opportunity
to visit places of scenic beauty and to encounter cultural experiences with several
settlements Ticunas.
In Amacayacu, a traveler will also find the Victoria Regia, the world’s largest
water lily. You will be overcome with this flower’s beauty.
The park is very accessible and has a variety of natural environments that you
can visit, such as the flooding forest during the rainy season. There are swamps and
all the attractions typical of the Amazon River system (piranha hunting, starry skies,
indigenous fishing trips, bird watching, flower photographing, and hunting). Obviously, you can navigate through the flooded forest, marshes, and swamps with a
motorboat or, if you are physically fit, in an unforgettable quiet canoe trip, guided by
a genuine inhabitant of the jungle.
Park visitors can take different trips to different islands, like Monkey Island, where there are thousands of monkeys and at least a dozen different species. The island
of Mocagua is also nearby, just like Lake Tarapoto in Sector 1, where you would see
the elusive and amazing pink dolphin of the Amazon.
The park includes luxury
accommodations and a Maloka.
This is the main house of any
Indian reservation. The luxury
accommodations are cabins
for two or four people. You can
also just relax in hammocks.
The park is also of considerable
interest to scientists who journey from all around the world
to view zoological specimens
not found elsewhere. The specimens are located just half an
hour by boat from the city of Leticia.
Santa Rosa, Peru – Not Many Tourist Services
Of the three cities, Santa Rosa has the least amount of tourist infrastructure with
very primitive facilities and lacks good hotels, restaurants, and nightlife. I recommend staying overnight in Tabatinga or Leticia.
Leticia, Colombia – You Have Arrived
Congratulations! You survived your first trip to the Amazon. We have arrived
unharmed at the tri-border area, so Colombia, Brazil, and Peru welcome you. I hope
that this first trip was not as scary as you were expecting and that your trip was ho-
51
nored by the presence of the mysterious pink dolphin as well as many more wildlife
creatures, such as turtles, crocodiles, and monkeys.
I hope that your visit to Iquitos was more than what you expect from a city in the
middle of the jungle, and, now that we are in Leticia, I hope that you enjoy it as much
as you did Iquitos. If you can, I suggest that you take the time to locate the city of
Leticia on a world map, because, when you find yourself dancing the salsa rhythms
in a busy bar tonight, you will not believe that you are in such a remote place.
Now it’s time to go on to the next chapter, where we will be visiting the cities of
Leticia and Tabatinga and their attractions. Then we will unpack our hammock after
boarding the boat that will take us from deep in the jungle to even deeper territories; this time to the country of Brazil, all the way, until we reach Manaus, the capital
of the Amazon.
52
COLOMBIA
PERU
Tabatinga
LETICIA
Benjamin
Constant
Såo Paulo
de Olivença
Santo Antonio
Do çá
Tonantina
BRAZIL
Carauari
Fonte Boa
Tefe
Alvaråes
Llarini
N
Coari
Tapaua
Codajás
Anori
Manacaparu
Iranduba
174
BR
Manaquiri
BR
319
BR
174
Rio Preto
da Eva
MANAUS
53
Chapter 4 FROM COLOMBIA TO BRAZIL, FROM THE SERENITY OF
COLOMBIA TO THE MADNESS OF MANAUS
SECTOR 2
Let’s continue the journey from the tri-border area, formed by Colombia, Peru,
and Brazil, and sail down river about 1500 miles to reach the city of Manaus.
As you know, this tri-border area is represented by the cities of Leticia in Colombia, Santa Rosa in Peru, and Tabatinga in Brazil. This is our starting point for this
second sector and for navigating along the most remote parts of the Brazilian territory.
The trip from Leticia to Tabatinga to Manaus lasts about 4 days, and most boats
stop primarily in the following cities: Benjamin Constant, Amaturá Olivença Sao Paulo, San Antonio de Iza, Tocantins, and Fonte Boa Jutai before stopping at Manaus.
Generally, tourists will take the full path to Manaus. This is because, unless you
have something specific to do in these remote communities, there really is not much
to do or see, as these cities lack basic tourism infrastructure.
In addition, some people disembark at Tefé community, halfway between Manaus and Tabatinga, and take a local flight to Manaus. However, this operation must
be coordinated very well; otherwise, the ship will arrive in Manaus before your plane. The flights only leave twice weekly and fares are quite expensive, so it is best to
stay on board and enjoy the beautiful panorama of the mighty Amazon.
In this part of the journey, the scenery is constant with turbid waters, blue skies,
and a sea of green trees.
Sunrises and Night Skies to Fall in Love With
If you are traveling during the rainy season, it may be that you come across
storms from time to time, but do not worry. They only clean the environment of
magnificent evening shows, where you can admire beautiful skies adorned with
thousands of blinking stars. Then, during the day, the stunning sunrises and sunsets
54
are even more fantastic and fill you with gratitude and admiration for this sea of
water. Be Alert Here
When boats are directed from Tabatinga to Manaus, the vast majority of them
remain in the center of the river on the strong currents that allow higher speeds
downstream. For this reason, the trip becomes a bit boring. Because when the river
is so wide, you are physically distant from the shore and have no way to view animals
and plants. In any case, be alert because one thing that you will observe is dolphins
and other creatures of the river. Although they try to be elusive, once in awhile
they will allow you to catch a glimpse, which will give you great joy. The gliding trip
downstream takes only 3 nights and 4 days.
On the other hand, the journey to the west of Manaus to Tabatinga takes about
7 days, as the ship has to return against the strong currents. The positive side of this
is that boats are kept very close to shore because the edge of the river currents are
weaker, allowing the boat to go faster. This is where you can delight in the experience of seeing the local flora and fauna. You may feel as if you are spying on the people,
looking in on the details of their lives, as you view the many isolated huts in the jungle and the various indigenous peoples. Whites have not colonized them.
55
Just Relax and Go Back into Time
My Dear Friend and traveler, this is a very relaxing trip and especially recommended for those with high levels of stress, because there is no choice but to go
along with the time you are observing. Progress seems to be lacking here in the
Amazon. In most of these water vessels, with the exception of Power Jato super-fast
boats, there is no Internet, no television, and, only occasionally, you will get reception on cell phones. Some people end up changing their habits, at least for the days
spent in the boat.
Something funny will happen when you are participating in this odd time travel
experience. When you get back to “civilization”, you will miss this slowly paced lifestyle! So use this time wisely.
The Journey May Bring You Love
Eventually, you will enjoy the humble dinner served onboard. Afterwards, you
can climb to the top deck of the boat to try to learn to dance some of the sensual and
sexy dances to the Brazilian rhythms. The pastel colors of a new and beautiful sunset
welcome you to the Amazon.
Once the lights of the boat dim, the silence of the jungle almost comes alive.
Thousands of stars sail with you in the wilderness of the Amazon; counting them will
surely send you off to the land of nod. Your bed is a new hammock. After the initial
curiosity of the first night and a little fatigue, you’ll sleep soundly.
A Day Onboard the Boat
During the daytime, you’ll admire the sea of water near the forest that seems
endless. While you’re on the boat, you become the entertainment for the people
watching along the stops at the various ports. They probably think to themselves,
“That person looks very unique.” After lunch, a nap is in order, and the hammock
cradles you gently back and forth.
In the afternoon, you probably will want to write in your journal after catching
up on your guidebooks. A little later, the smells from the kitchen will remind you
that food will be served quickly, and then it’s time again for another magnificent and
indescribable sunset. After a quick shower, back on the top deck you can practice
your new dance moves and learn the new hip movements of the Lambada. After
another starry sky, and you will realize you have survived another “tough” day in the
Amazon.
Eventually, you will notice that surprisingly, most of the houses along the river
have huge satellite dishes. Even the most humble abodes have them. Among the
56
logos are DISH network and Direct TV. You can observe pets, ranging from macaws
to toucans, monkeys, and squirrels. It is also very common to see huge trees and
logs floating down the river, but do not worry about them hitting the boat; the boat
master has already dealt with thousands of them before. By now, he has become a
real bullfighter for logs.
Although this Sector goes through the most remote Brazilian territories on both
sides of the path, find all the products available that you need. In the tri-border area
of approximately 70,000 people, if you cannot find an item in Leticia, you can cross
the street to go to stores in Tabatinga, where you will probably find it. Even if you
need to do some international paperwork, it can be done here as long as you stay
in this area.
The City of Manaus
At the other extreme is the city of Manaus with nearly 2 million inhabitants;
there is no doubt that it will surprise you with all kinds of shops and services. After
a couple of hours in the city among the hundreds of cars and thousands of people,
you could easily forget you’re in the middle of the jungle, although the high temperatures and high humidity at all times remind you that you are in the middle of the
Amazon. And, like in Sector 1, first let’s get a quick overview of the best places to
visit in the city of Leticia and Tabatinga before leaving on the boat that will take us
down the river to get to Manaus.
Ways to Get There and Around
By Air
Like the city of Iquitos in this sector, there are no roads leading to Leticia and
Tabatinga, but these cities in the tri-border area are well connected by air, especially
Jennifer. Air service to the city of Tabatinga is unreliable, expensive, and you need
to book well in advance. As per Santa Rosa de Peru, virtually it does not have any
commercial air service.
Arriving in Leticia
The easiest way to reach the tri-border is by air to the city of Leticia. It currently
has two airlines serving the city with an excellent and economical service from Bogota, Colombia. From Bogota, you can do all your international and domestic connections with any city in Colombia, especially in case you want to book a getaway to
Cartagena or San Andres in the Colombian Caribbean. One airline is Satena, which
belongs to the Colombian government. The other company, Aero Republica, is more
reliable and is owned in part by Continental Airlines. Aero Republica has connections
to all Colombian cities and connections worldwide through its international hubs
57
in Panama, Houston, and New York.
Domestic flights from Bogota are very
cheap, about $80 each way. The trips
are very safe with modern aircraft and
highly trained crews.
Please note that if you buy local
flights in the U.S. or Europe, local fees
can cost up to $600. Here’s the solution: browse for your international ticket on one of your favorite travel sites,
and then visit the websites of local airlines of Colombia, which appear at the end of
the book and purchase your ticket directly with them. This way you can save more
than $500, an amount of cash that you can almost work miracles with here in the
Amazon. It is also important that you consider that while Continental Airlines in the
U.S. owns Aero Republica in Colombia, you still need to buy air tickets separately, in
order to benefit from the savings of local fees.
Aero Republica Airlines
This airline operates Embraer 190 aircraft for 100 passengers, and it flies every
day from Bogota, departing around 12:18 and arriving at 14:18 in Leticia. The return
flight to Bogota Leticia leaves at 14:40 and takes a one-hour and 45-minute flight. In
high season and during holidays, these companies tend to add more flights with up
to four daily flights during the Christmas and Easter holidays.
Air Satena
Air Satena operates Embraer 170 planes for 70 passengers, and it flies only on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Departures are from Bogota to Leticia at 10:25
am, arriving at 12:15. The return flight to Bogota leaves at 12:45, and it is a one hour
and 45-minute flight.
Tabatinga to Manaus
If you decide to fly from Tabatinga, note that these flight schedules tend to change frequently. Consult your travel agent or websites found at the end of this book.
TRIP Airlines
This airline uses aircraft turbo prop ATR 42 jets with a capacity for 60 passengers.
Tabatinga TRIP Airlines flies every Wednesday and Sunday, leaving for Manaus at
16:30 and arriving at the largest jungle city in the world at 19:45. However, be aware
of possible delays as the aircraft stops in the cities of Tefé, Fonte, Boa, and Olivença
Sao Paulo, before coming to Tabatinga around 15:55. The cost varies according to
season, but the cheapest is $350.
58
Slow Boat
Once you get to the jungle, the only practical way to
travel is by boat, and Sector 1
of the river has two options
to travel the Amazon River.
The cargo ships are more
common among the local population, while tourists prefer
passenger boats with no cargo.
All boats that do come to Manaus from the river port of Tabatinga on the outskirts of the city, and motorbike taxis can take you from the hotel to the port for $1.
There are also regular buses and taxis, in case you carry extra baggage. In any case,
the taxi fare should not exceed $4.
The cargo ships carry about 200 passengers. For example, the company Voyager
usually travels every Wednesday and Saturday from Tabatinga at 14:00 (19:00 Benjamin Constant), arriving on Saturday and Tuesday to Manaus near the time of 14:00.
The approximate cost for one leg of this route, Manaus to Tabatinga, is $65 in
a hammock, and about $320 in a cabin with three single beds. Finally, some of the
most modern ships have deluxe cabins for about $400. Sometimes there are two
boats leaving Tabatinga at the same time, and, when that happens, you can negotiate the cost of the ticket to Manaus in a hammock for under $45.
Take care not to travel during holiday periods, especially around carnival time,
since the situation is reversed, and you end up paying double the normal rate.
From Manaus to Tabatinga, costs rise, as the boats take twice as long sailing upstream. This sector generally takes 7 days to reach Manaus to Tabatinga, and approximate prices are $150 for hammock accommodations, $520 for the cab, and $700 for
the deluxe cabins.
When purchasing the ticket directly on the boat, you can negotiate the price to
$90 or less. Since the boats are not accessible by land from the port of Manaus Moderna, it is worth renting a motorized canoe for $3 to get to the docking of the boat
in Manaus. And don’t forget to negotiate directly with the crew. By taking this extra
step, you can often save up to 50% of the regular fare.
When traveling in cargo ships, or type Recreio, as the Brazilians call them, be
59
aware that the crowds flock to fill up the ships. Try to be on the boat a few hours
earlier to get a good spot for your hammock. You will buy your hammock in the city,
because, once in the boat, you will find no hammocks for sale. Try placing the hammock as close to the front of the ship. In addition, be extremely careful with your
belongings while you are waiting for the ship to leave port. With crowds of people
around, and people jumping in and out of ships, it is difficult to detect undesirable
persons. Once you sail the boat, you need not be so paranoid, but, at the ports, it is
better to be safe than sorry.
Locals prefer the cargo ship transport, students, and people, who really want to
experience the Amazon, and, if you
have plenty of time to travel through
this area, I recommend that you do
the trip on the slow boat. Then take
the return ride on the speedboat or
take a flight. Another option to fully
enjoy this area is to book a flight to
Bogota, Colombia, and then book
your return flight from Manaus, or
vice versa. If you use an air transport
company to fly to both cities in Latin
America, such as American Airlines,
Continental Air, Delta, COPA, TACA,
and other European airlines. The difference in price should be minimal.
Speedboat
Another preferred way to visit the Amazon is traveling in the super-fast boats
that give premium service for passengers. These boats connect the major communities between Leticia and Tabatinga to Manaus and vice versa.
For those of us who like to travel and enjoy the scenery of the Amazonian rivers
but do not have much time, this speedboat with a capacity of more than 50 passengers is a great solution.
Cruise speed is about 42 miles per hour, giving passengers the sensation of flying
over water. Travel time is about 36 hours at an approximate cost of $200. These fast
boats have all the amenities to give you a very comfortable journey. They include
bathrooms, air conditioning, TV monitors for watching
movies, three meals, and a bar in the back for snacks,
cookies, water, soft drinks, and, of course, beer. The boat
leaves from Tabatinga to Manaus on Friday at 8:00 am
and returns from Manaus to Tabatinga every Tuesday. I
recommend that you make reservations in advance because tickets run out very quickly.
60
Attractions in Leticia and theTri-Border Area
Although Tabatinga is larger in size and population, most activity occurs in the
city of Leticia, because Leticia has developed a modern infrastructure for trade and
tourism comparable to any small town in Europe or America. This is a very safe area
for any tourist, and crime is practically nonexistent. This is possibly due to the presence of three national armies to protect their own borders, or perhaps because
criminals have no hiding place except the jungle. Having been here many times, I
assure you that this area is not only very beautiful but also very safe. You will find
very friendly locals and quickly feel at home.
The Place to Go for Cultural Events
Besides the common border represented by these two cities, this two city union
has created a wide range of art events, historical events, cultural events, social
events, and natural events. They also have an urban infrastructure in the middle
of the jungle, which allows the visitor to take all necessary services to any day trip
into the forest and any other service necessary to enjoy the city, including hotels,
residences, traditional restaurants, agents, operators, craft shops, malls, bike rental
service, currency exchange, banks, Internet services, and mobile communications.
In fact, the city of Leticia has many taxis and minibuses that serve the entire area;
the motorcycles are the primary means of transportation within cities, and there are
enough points where you can rent them.
A key feature of this area is that many indigenous groups do not care about the
borders imposed by whites. You will find families with the same cultures, customs,
and lifestyles on both sides. In fact, more than 26 ethnic groups still practice their
own cultural practices and speak their own languages. The cultures are ancient ones,
and, because of this, you have the opportunity to have an unforgettable experience,
just by interacting with native communities, savoring their food and drinks, dancing
their dances, and partaking in their rituals. You could even accompany them on their
walks through the jungle to perform their daily tasks, such as fishing, where they
are still using artisan methods. Other additional opportunities are helping to create
crafts, and, of course, you can even participate in shamanic experiences.
Leticia, Tabatinga, and Santa Rosa – Outdoor Activities
The main attraction of this area is ecotourism; especially activities related to the
great river, such as walking, swimming, observing wildlife, anthropology, exploring
the river, fishing, jungle tours, and other outdoor activities. Nevertheless, there are
several activities in the city of Leticia that you should attend such as parks, museums, and other attractions.
Parks Santander Orellana – For Parrot Lovers
Enjoy the free concert every evening, with hundreds of parrots of different spe-
61
cies belonging to this region. Do not miss this great eco-concert, which is incredibly
loud, unique, and beautiful.
Leticia Serpentarium – For Snake Lovers
Observe and learn about different species of snakes in the Amazon here at Leticia Serpentarium. Many tourists love the tree house, where you can experience a
night sleeping in the forest in a completely secure environment. The tree house even
has a bathroom, and it is well protected against mosquitoes. The cost per night for
two people is about $60, and I recommend that you make this one of your life experiences. Please find contact information at the end of the book.
Leticia Zoo – For Animal Lovers
By any standard compared to other zoos around the world, this zoo is very poor.
Tourists often make the big mistake of not visiting this zoo for that reason, but, if
they do, they miss one of the rare opportunities to see some of the most elusive
animals in the Amazon, the anaconda.
I have personally traveled the Amazon River, from beginning to end many times,
and this place is where I have seen and taken pictures of anacondas. Luck may be on
your side if your visit coincides with lunch. During that time, you can see an anaconda swallowing a live chicken for its lunch. The zoo also features other wildlife, such
as tapirs, manatees, eagles, tigers, monkeys and more.
Store Brazil – For Artifact Collectors
Store Brazil is the name of a store in Brazil. I usually do not make any recommendations for specific stores, but this place looks like a museum full of Indian artifacts,
plants, and animals. Here you can admire the Matamala turtle, another Amazonian
animal that hides away and lives its life in secret. This turtle is a small one, and the
unique thing about it is that it has a unicorn, which seems prehistoric. Words won’t
describe it, so take 15 minutes and visit the shop. You can also see other fish, like
piranhas, eels, and more. This is a great place to buy souvenirs, and your friends will
love the authentic stuffed and dissected piranhas for less than $6. They will pack it
and ship it to your office in New York or London, where you can constantly brag of
your trip to the Amazon.
Local Markets Leticia and Tabatinga – A ‘Must Go’ Place
The local market is always an obligatory visit for any tourist to the Amazon, as it
is the main place to see neighbors come in from different types of boats and canoes
full of farm supplies, fish, livestock, medicinal plants, and many other products unique to the region for sale, barter, or exchange with locals and tourists. Likewise, this
is a good place to taste the most eccentric dishes of local gastronomy.
Benjamin Constant, Brazil – Connecting Point
Benjamin Constant is 22 mi south of Tabatinga. It is the first stop where all boats
62
leave from Manaus. From here, there is a road connection to Atalaya Do Norte, the
entry point Palmari Nature Reserve. They also have fast boats, the “river taxi to Benjamin,” leaving Tabatinga. It holds at least 10 passengers, and the charge is $5 per
trip.
Palmari Reserve, Brazil – Visit the Tribes
What motivates most of the visitors to reach this remote area of the world? It is
indeed the biological potential, the observation of nature, indigenous cultures, communities along the river, and the tranquility offered by Amazon, and the best place
to find all these experiences is at Palmari Nature Reserve.
It is located in the Brazilian side, about 2 ½ hours from Leticia and Tabatinga by
speedboat, or about 5 ½ hours by canoe. This place would be one of the most fun
experiences in the Amazon, because you can arrange a very comfortable and safe visit to the indigenous tribes, such as Matiz, Marubos, and Mararunas. Other fantastic
and unique activities are learning to use real crossbows, hike or row into the jungle
to spend a night in the jungle sleeping in a hammock, learning and experiencing the
process to manufacture rubber, and more.
Of course, there are many more activities to do at this place of paradise, activities full of fun adventure and excitement, but we need to get on the boat that
will take us down the river to Manaus navigating the 1000 mi from the Colombian
border to the Capital of the Amazonas. As you may imagine, there are thousands of
communities along the way before we get to the big city of Manaus, but the most
important ones are Benjamin Constant, Sao Paulo Olivença, Amaturá, San Antonio
de Iza, Tonantins, Jutai, Fonte Boa, Coari, and Codajas.
63
64
Manacaparu
BR
174
Rio Preto
da Eva
Borda
MANAUS
Iranduba
BR
174
Manaquiri
BR
319
Novo
Aripuana
Itacoatira
BR
230
Terra Santa
Parintins
Oriximina
Obidos
Itaituba BR
230
Alenquer
SANTAREN
BR
163
Ruropolis
Almeirim
Medicilandia
Prainha
Uiruara
Monte
Alegre
BR
230
BR
156
Gurupá
Porto
de Moz
Altamira
BR
230
N
Pacaja
Vigia
BELEM
ANANINDEUA
Igarape-Miri
Abaetetuba
Cameta
Mocajuba
Balao
Tucurui
Novo
Repartimento
Curuca
Castanhal
Igarape-Açu
BR
010
Chapter 5
65
FROM MANAUS TO BELEM, FROM THE JUNGLE OF MANAUS TO
THE BEACHES OF BELEM ON THE ATLANTIC COAST
SECTOR 3
This is the most popular sector of the river, and most people, when they decide to come to the Amazon, choose the city of Manaus. Usually, they fly into this
huge city in the middle of the jungle and then take a boat down the river to the city
of Belem, where the mouth of the Amazon is located right at the Atlantic Ocean.
Obviously, you can come back upstream in another boat, or take a flight back to
Manaus; these two cosmopolitan cities have countless options and combinations of
transportation to reach them.
Enjoy Your Hammock
Just as we have been doing from Iquitos in Peru, we will continue down the river
enjoying our hammock aboard the cargo boat that will take us to the city of Belem.
Halfway there, we will stop in the city of Santarem to visit the beaches of Alter do
Chao. Our journey will end at the mouth of the great river on the Atlantic Coast.
Along the way, there are different options; for example, you could take a speedboat
from Manaus to the city of Santarem in just 14 hours. Once in Santarém, you would
take a flight to Belem and arrive just one hour later. The idea is to have all the information that you need to customize this trip, so refer to the back of the book for
websites and telephone numbers to get the latest information about your trip.
There are several boats making the Manaus to Belem route and vice versa, and
among them are the Amazon Star, Santarém, Nelio Correa, Golfinho Do Sea, Globo
do Mar, and other smaller boats. It is worth mentioning that you will see many mega
cruise ships sailing in the river, but most of them come directly from Miami, New
York, and other ports in Europe.
Normally, the slow boats make stops in the cities of Itacoatiara, Parintins, Juruti,
Obidos, Santarem, Monte Alegre, Almeirim, Curralihno, Gurupa, Breves, and finally
Belem. However, most of these are quick stops used only to drop and pick up new
passengers, as well as to drop off and pick up cargo loads. If cargo loads are picked
up, the wait time is variable. Nonetheless, most of these cities lack basic tourist
infrastructure, and unless you have something specific to do, or good friends to visit
in any of these cities, it is best to continue enjoying the great river all the way to the
end.
66
The trip from Manaus to Belem normally takes about 4 days as the boat is going
downstream. However, reversing the route, depending on river conditions, may take
up to 10 days. Yet, most people traveling this sector for the first time usually decide to make a stop at the city of Santarem, which is halfway between Manaus and
Belem. This city of 300,000 inhabitants has paradise-like “Caribbean” beaches that
are well worth visiting. They also have a couple of Indian reservations, which most
tourists like to frequent.
Remember that the trip from Manaus to Santarem last only 2 days of sailing
downstream the river, and then takes another couple extra days to arrive to Belem
after the usual stop in Santarem. Keep reading because additional details of these
trips and these cities are forthcoming in this chapter.
The cost of the trip from Manaus to Santarem varies somewhat, depending on
the vacation seasons, but I will give you prices that are accurate according to my
travel experiences in the Amazon and information from friends living or traveling
the Amazon at this very moment. For example, if you go from Manaus to Belem, it
will cost about $150 one way. However, in this sector, only your breakfast is included
in this price. The other two meals will cost about you $2 to $3 each. Therefore, it is
necessary to add approximately $20 to $25 for the cost of meals to the total cost of
transportation.
From Santarem, the following rates apply:
67
The ticket cost from Santarem to Belem is $90 (+ food) in most of the following
boats: Nelio Correa Onze de Maio, Clivia, Amazon Star, Rondonia, and Cisne Branco.
From Santarem to Manaus, about $70 (+ food), using the following vessels: Karolina Navio do Norte, Ana Beatriz III, Globo do Mar, Golfinho do Mar, San Marino,
Santarém, Nelio Correa, Luiz Afonso, Clivia, Onze de Maio, Pai da Fe III, and Comte
Paiva Leao IV.
In any event, you would buy the tickets anywhere in the city; the boat companies have several agencies selling tickets throughout the cities of Manaus, Santarem,
and Belem.
If you decide to fly, then several airlines service these routes of Manaus, Santarem, and Belem. The one-way ticket will cost you at least $200 for this flight, lasting
less than one hour. Read more details later on this chapter under the heading “By
Air”.
In fact, there are so many options that you could even get to Manaus by bus
from Venezuela and the Guyana, although there are no interconnections by land
with any other parts of Brazil. However, once you are in Santarém, if you arrive during the dry season, you could take the bus to Belem. From there, you can connect
with the rest of the country.
Getting There and Around
Most people who come to this area fly from their hometowns in the U.S., Europe, and Asia directly to Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, the two most widely used international gateway cities to reach Brazil. Of course, there are many other international
routes and domestic flights from many different cities. This section will cover the
most popular routes, the scheduling, and fares associated with them.
By Air
The airport that serves the city of Manaus is Eduardo Gomes International Airport, and it is served by many airlines of Brazil, including TAM, VARIG, RICO, TRIP, and
GOL as well as other international airlines, including Delta, COPA, TAM, and some
others. When traveling to the Amazon by air, TAM and GOL airlines are excellent
companies that can take you to Manaus from any city in Brazil, as they have the most
extended air networks.
Make a note to yourself that domestic air transportation in Brazil is not as cheap
as in the U.S. or Europe, but every day, more companies are entering the market,
thus reducing their fares. However, still most one-way flights will cost at least $200
and much more in vacation time or Carnival, when a cost of $400 is difficult to obtain. Brazilian airlines offer great deals, so it is worth checking their websites for
68
current promotions. You will be able to find the best airlines websites at the end of
this book.
Most of the local airlines are very safe as they use very modern aircraft equipment with well-trained crews in addition to their always-friendly staff. At this time,
there are many international airlines flying directly to the Amazon that have direct
flights from Miami, Bolivia, Panama, and other destinations. This is especially true
for Manaus.
Therefore, keep in mind that if you give yourself enough time and do thorough
research, you would be able to buy an inexpensive airline ticket to any of the cities in
the Amazon. Nevertheless, the most important thing is, whenever possible; choose
an airline that is in association with “Sustainable Travel International” (STI), as they
offer their passengers the opportunity to offset carbon emissions generated by their
flight, contributing to the common goal of protecting our environment. The amount
of compensation will be invested by STI in financing sustainable development projects of high impact, such as reforestation and renewable energy. So, whenever you
can, check the Sustainable Travel International organization website at the end of
this book to find out how you would offset this trip emission on the environment.
By Bus
Yes, Manaus can be reached by bus, but the road comes from the Venezuelan
border and only connects Manaus to Boa Vista, the state capital of Roraima, the
northern farthest state, bordering the republic of Venezuela. Through this road, you
can also connect to neighboring British Guiana, Dutch Guyana, and eventually to
French Guiana. However, you will find more information on this route in Chapter 6,
“Traveling by Bus to the Amazon.”
Once you are in Santarem, it is possible to connect by bus from Santarem to Belem, but only during the dry season since the road to Santarem virtually disappears
during the wet season. You’ll learn more about this later when you read the section,
“How to Get to Santarem.”
By Boat
Speedboat
If you go via Manaus instead of Belem, there are Ajato boats that serve Santarem
from Manaus. This fast boat service will take you from Manaus to Santarem twice a
week, or, as an alternative, take the two-day journey by the slow cargo boats.
The Ajato boat is the same company with the fast boats to Tabatinga, and they
are located behind the Central market at the Adolfo Lisboa Building. This is another building in the Amazon that was designed by Engineer Eiffel during the “rubber
boom.” Today is used as the main market building in Manaus.
69
Slow Boats
The most common way to get to Manaus is by boat; whether it is a transatlantic
cruise ship, small private boats, or the most traditional Amazonian Cargo boat from
the 50’s. The main reason that people choose to take the river is so that they can
stop at the various attractions along the way. That way they can experience not just
the Amazon River, but also some of the other bigger rivers in the world, like the Rio
Negro or the Rio Maduro.
From Manaus, you can travel by boat, virtually to anywhere in the world as some
of the biggest ships in the world make it to this port, even though it is 900 mi inland
from the ocean. Obviously, from here, you would also take a boat to any destination
in the Amazon River system or the Pantanal. However, because the main consideration for this book is to travel the Amazon River, I am attaching a chart with the many
boats that you would take from Manaus heading to the beginning of the river or to
the end of it.
Many ships head out to Tabatinga toward the border with Colombia and Peru,
and more boats head out to the Atlantic Ocean toward the cities of Santarem and
Belem. Unfortunately, most of these companies do not have a web site, and they
only sell their ticket at the counter. However, I am introducing their schedules and
their phone number for you to call when you are ready to travel as a bonus for you
in this book.
As mentioned before, most of the tourists heading eastward decide to split their
trip to Belem by getting off the boat in Santarem to visit the unbelievable beaches
of Alter do Chao. Many people decide to make one whole journey from Manaus
directly to Belem. If this is your choice, then your journey will last 3½ to 4 hours, costing approximately $150. If you decide to break your trip in Santarem into two parts,
then the prices for the sectors will be about $80 from Manaus to Santarem and
approximately $90 from Santarem to
Belem. Remember that you should negotiate the price with the captain, even
if you do not speak Portuguese, since
the bargaining sign language seems to
be universal.
Follow the chart below with all the
boats leaving Manaus to Santarem, Belem, and other locations in between and
see if you want to take this route. Most
of these companies always have Englishspeaking staff so do not be shy to call them directly to ask for more info.
70
PORT OF MANAUS
BOAT DESTIN
DEPARTURE
TIME
PHONE
DURATION
Golfinho
do Mar
Parintins, Juriti, Óbidos e
Santarém
Every Friday
12 h
(93) 3522-6061
1 day
y½
São Bartolomeu
Parintins, Juriti, Óbidos e
Santarém
Every
Monday
14 h
(93) 9132-1700
1 day
y½
Pai da Fé
Santarém
Every
Saturday
(92) 9102-5694
1 day
y½
Globo do
Mar
Parintins, Juruti, Óbidos
e Santarém
(93) 3522-6061
1 day
y½
Leão IV
Parintins Juriti, Óbidos e
Santarém
Every
Wednesday
(92) 9996-4247
1 day
y½
Cidade de
Santarém
Santarém
Every
Tuesday
(92) 9120-9010
1 day
y½
Leão IV
Santarém
(92) 9996-4247
1 day
y½
Carolina
do Norte
Santarém
Every
Wednesday
13 h
(92) 9152-2032
1 day
y½
Nélio Correa
Parintins, Juruti, Óbidos,
Santarém e Monte Alegre
Every
Wednesday
16 h
(92) 9139-5772
3 days
y½
Lírio do
Mar II
Every
Saturday
12 h
(93) 3522-3043
3 days
y½
Luiz
Afonso
Every
Wednesday
13 h
(93) 9143-0837
3 days
y½
Ana Maria
V
Santarém
Every
Thursday
11 de
Maio
Parintins, Juruti, Óbidos, Mt
Alegre, Praínha, Almerim,
Curupari, Santarém e
Belém
Every other
Friday
16 h
(93) 9128-3729
4 days
Cisne
Branco
Parintins,Juruti, Óbidos, Mt
Alegre,Praínha, Almerim,
Curupari, Santarém e
Belém
Every other
Friday
12 h
(91) 3224-1225
4 days
Amazon
Star
Parintins, Juriti, Óbidos
e Santarém, Mt Alegre,
Almerim, Prainha, Gurupá,
Breve e Belém
Every
Wednesday
(93) 3522-7947
4 days
Santarém
Breve e Belém
Every
Wednesday
(92) 8196-4735
4 days
Nélio
Correia
Breve e Belém
(92) 3633-2334
4 days
12 h
14 h
(92) 9125-0659
12 h
71
PORT OF MANAUS
Boat
Destin
DEPARTURE
PHONE
DURATION
Fênix
F. Boa, S A Iça, Amaturá, Ft Boa,
Jutaí, Tonantins, S.P de Olivença,
Benj. Constant, Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9116-3812
7 days
Voyagers III
e IV
F. Boa, S A Iça, Amaturá, Ft
Boa, Jutaí, Tonantins, S.P
de Olivença, Benj. Constant,
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9116-3812
7 days
Itapuranga III
F. Boa, S A Iça, Amaturá, Ft Boa,
Jutaí, Tonantins, S.P de Olivença,
Benj. Constant, Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 3087-8335
7 days
Manoel Monteiro I
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9618-0073
7 days
Manoel
Monteiro
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9112-2154
7 days
D. Manoel
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9112-2154
7 days
D. Manoel
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9985-4521
7 days
Oliveira V
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9983-4577
7 days
Sagrado Coração de Jesus
Tabatinga
Every
21 days
(92) 9975-7422
7 days
Note 1:
To make a call to any of these companies, you must dial your country
international code, plus 55 for Brazil. Here’s an example: To call from the
USA, dial 011 55 plus any number on the list above.
Note 2:
Most of the boats to Belem and Santarem leave from the Port of Manaus; however, there are some boats that sometimes leave other river
ports, mainly Porto da Escadaria Dos Remedios, or the port Porto de Sao
Raimundo. Occasionally, when you reach the port, they will tell you that
the next boat will come in three or four days, so be sure to check all ports
and other early-morning departures.
72
Manaus, Beautiful and Crazy
The city of Manaus formerly was home to many of the robber barons of the
nineteenth century, but today the city is a leading producer of automobiles and electronics. Therefore, from this stunning city in the jungle, we will begin our final leg to
the end of the Amazon River back in Belem.
Plenty of Cultural Activities
In Manaus, there are nearly two million people living in the city. These people
demand cultural activities, of which you will find plenty. They range from concerts
and exhibitions to dinners and dances.
The Rainforest Canopy Experience
You don’t have to spend your time with these types of cultural activities, though.
Just leave town and take a tour through the dense woods and follow the rivers, either the Amazon or the Negro River. You will witness scenery never seen before in
your life, as your boat cruises among the top of beautiful, tall palm trees, as well as,
other giant trees, almost submerged in a sea of water. This is the rainforest canopy
scenic view. Typically, atop these huge trees, you will see enormous brown termite
nests and thousands of radiant butterflies flying happily and caring little about your
presence.
What a luxury! You are just half an hour from deafening noise of the city, but
here you are alone, adrift, in the quiet of the forest with the boat engine switched
off, listening only to the unforgettable silence of the jungle.
Nevertheless, eventually you have to return to the city, as there are plenty of
activities to do.
73
Teatro Amazonas – Historic Architecture
Take a tour of the stunning interior of this theater, built in 1896 for operas and
plays in the late XIX century. Today, this stunning and luxurious building is home to
many free events and definitely worth a visit. It’s a beautiful architectural gem located in the middle of the jungle.
Black River Palace – Exhibitions of Interest
Here you will find the Numismatic Museum, Art Gallery, Museum of Image and
Sound, and endemic exhibitions, such as replicas of native huts.
Mercado Adolfo Lisboa – Boats and Bazaars
This is a very picturesque place to stroll through the downtown, and here you
can see workers in feverish activity at the docks. There are a number of colorful
boats, and a prodigious variety of fish and tropical fruits. There are also many shops
and bazaars with charming quirks.
Courthouse – Historic Building
Built about 1900, this Renaissance building currently serves as a cultural center.
Seringal Museum Villa Paradise – A Bit of History
This museum reproduces the injustices of the rubber-producing estates during
their boom in the Amazon as a play or theater production. They re-enact daily life
on the farm.
Museum of Natural Science in Amazonia
This excellent museum includes the collection of wildlife of the Amazon.
Indian Museum
Their collection includes thousands of pieces from different tribes of the Amazon.
Cigs Zoo
If you have not had good luck in the jungle spotting rare wildlife and do not want
to return home, without having seen the animals of the Amazon, then do not miss
this zoo with its wide variety of animals.
Praia de Ponta Negra – Beachlife
This is a popular tourist site with many nighttime activities throughout the year.
It is way too busy between August and January when the river level is low and reveals the beautiful beaches of the Rio Negro.
Meeting of the Waters – Scenic Spot
This is undoubtedly one of the most sought after tours; tourists feel compelled
74
to see this unbelievable meeting of the waters of the Black River with the river Solimões.
From Manaus to Santarem
Once you have seen all the attractions, this is the time to get to the port, and
start our journey downriver. Even if it is a little bit early, head to the ship because
you want to find a good place to hang your hammock. It’s important to hang your
hammock in the best places, and usually the best place is on the middle floor toward
the front of the boat, as far as possible from the noisy engines and from the bathrooms for obvious reasons. You’ll be competing for these places along with 200 other
patrons.
Get There Early
Nevertheless, if you do not arrive early, then you may end up on the bottom
floor near the cargo holds and too close to the engine room, usually not the best
way to enjoy the journey. This is especially true because the Brazilians like to carry
onboard the weirdest loads you can imagine, including all types of kitchen sinks,
gigantic televisions, refrigerators, cars, and anything else that they can put inside
the vessel. After all, let us remember that the highways, in this part of world, are the
rivers, so to relocate from one city to another, there is no alternative but to use the
same boats where you and I are having so much fun.
One sure way to avoid the deafening engine room is getting your own cabin,
which will give you privacy and become your refuge from the intense sun and extreme humidity always present in these latitudes. Obviously, these cabins are not
stylish. The beds are too small and the room too tight, with no air-conditioning, making them almost suffocating. On the other hand, you will have your very own electrical outlet, something that seems to be an absolute necessity, even in the middle
of the jungle.
About Your Hammock
Most people prefer to travel in the hammock, enjoying the constant breeze and
the huge panoramic view. The cost? The cabins cost about $250 from Manaus to
Santarem and the “hammock class” about $80 per person. By the way, I remind you
once again, you should buy your hammock in the local market before boarding the
boat, as they do not sell hammocks aboard.
You May Be in a Time Warp
It is also worth remembering that time in the Amazon does not mean much,
so do not be surprised if the boat goes out a couple of hours late. Do not worry;
sooner or later, it will get underway, leaving the torturous heat of Manaus behind
75
and allowing you to discover the pleasant sensation of swinging in your hammock,
while feeling the gentle evening breeze. Later, as the ship advances forward on the
journey, you can stretch, walk around the ship, or even strike a conversation with a
native. For most foreigners, these interactions with the local people most often are
the highlights of this journey.
Alternatively, if you wish, you could cocoon in your own hammock with a book
and your I-Pod, as most of the foreigners do at the beginning of the trip, isolating
yourself from the rest of the world. Catch up on some of the sleep you missed.
What it is Like Onboard
Once aboard, it will not take long to realize that most Brazilians are very friendly
and helpful people, and you will notice this is the case, especially when you try to
install your hammock. They will give you a few minutes to try to install it yourself,
and watch you struggle for a little while. Then, undoubtedly, a new acquaintance and
neighbor will have pity on you and come to your rescue. He will install the hammock
for you.
The Meeting of Waters
While the horizon of the
city of Manaus falls behind
us, we will reach the confluence of two rivers, imaginatively called “Meeting
of Waters”, because this is
where the Rio Negro and the
Amazon River meet.
These two rivers have
very different waters, with
variances in temperature,
density and speed that keep
them completely separate
for more than 6 mi before finally uniting as one river. It is
really a unique sight to see two
bodies of water running together, but simultaneously separated.
Mealtime is Specific
Remember that life aboard the ship also operates in a different time frame, so
you have to get used to different times, especially when it comes to meals. For most
of us, it is an unusual experience to adjust your body clock for breakfast between
6:00 and 7:00, lunch at 10:30 until noon, and dinner from 5:50 to 7:00. I know it’s
76
probably a little early for you, but please do
not make the most common error, trying to
wait until the end of the mealtime before
you go get food. If you do, I assure you, that
when you arrive, there will be nothing left.
Lunches and dinners are not included,
and the cost is about five reales ($2.4) per
person. It is the same for everyone, and it
usually includes chicken or beef, rice, vegetables, fruit, and juice. The food is great, and
it is a real bargain at that price. Also, remember that on the upper deck of the boat,
there is a small service shop with sandwiches, drinks, and cold beer.
Enjoy the New Acquaintances You Meet
Your first night on board is usually quite interesting, because after the first few
hours, passengers tend to put their books and IPods aside to begin conversations as
they share a cookie or a fruit with their neighbor.
Consequently, by telling personal stories, you begin to interrelate in different
ways. You open up to them just like you would at a bar. Your personal stories will
eventually entertain people in distant places of the world. Men gather to play dominoes, cards, and other games, while women warmly discuss the details of the latest
novel broadcast by Brazilian television.
Dance, Dance, Dance Your Night Away
Nevertheless, upstairs is where the action occurs every night as the samba.
Other Brazilian rhythms are played at hundreds of decibels loud and the upper
deck will get crowded with people that tire of dancing. Most of them are Brazilians,
but as darkness and beers make their way to the dance floor, more and more tourists
give in to the temptation of trying to emulate those crazy Brazilians hip moves. Eventually, there will be the first fleeting flirtations among the “strangers” and new relationships start to gain ground, some of them, with long lasting outcomes.
Finally, the atmosphere in the upper deck will calm down, and hours later, you
will witness another unbelievable encounter of waters, this time near Santarém, as
the river Tapajós, tries to mingle with the very arrogant waters of the Amazon River.
In fact, they appear as two separate rivers, one brown and one gray, flowing next
to each other, proud of their individualities. Once the two rivers agree on marching
together all the way to the ocean, it will not take long for the ship to gently glide
into the port of Santarem, infecting everybody once more with the enthusiasm only
found at the Amazon ports.
77
City of Santarem
This city has more than 300,000 happy Brazilians, all waiting for the boats to
dock. The people will invite you to the beautiful beaches of Port Da Chao and the
wonderful indigenous reserves. This worthwhile stop also gives you the chance to
get away from the boat and get a “real bed”, just in case you are having a tough time
rolling around in your hammock. Santarem also can be reached by land, but only
during the dry season. However, the city has an excellent air service and many boats
that come from both directions of the river.
BR
156
Vigia
Curuca
Igarape-Açu
ANANINDEUA
Almeirim
Oriximina
Obidos
Alenquer
Terra Santa
Monte
Alegre
Prainha
Gurupá
Castanhal
BELEM
Abaetetuba
Porto
de Moz
Igarape-Miri
Cameta
SANTAREN
Mocajuba
Balao
Parintins
Itacoatira
Altamira
Medicilandia
BR
Uiruara
BR
163
Ruropolis
Itaituba
BR
230
BR
230
Pacaja
BR
Tucurui
010
230
N
BR
230
Novo
Repartimento
SOLAMENTE PARA ILUSTRACIÓN
How to Get to Santarem?
By Air
Every day there are several direct, as well as connecting, flights from Manaus
and Belem lasting a bit over an hour. There are also some flights from Brasilia and
Sao Paulo. The airlines that serve this market are practically the same ones that served Manaus and Belem, including companies like GOL, RICO, TAM, and others.
By Land
From Belem, Santarem can be reached through the federal highway BR-316 and
state highway PA-140 PA-151 PA-256 PA-150 PA-263, BR-422 BR-230 (the famous
Trans-Amazonian highway) and BR-163
(Cuiabá-Santarém Highway). However,
during December through May, Santarem is as isolated as Manaus, since during
those months the paved road partially disappears until the dry season comes back.
Still, 500 miles from the Atlantic Ocean,
this is the only road that crosses the forest to reach Santarém, so even in the dry
78
season this journey is a real adventure.
Although I personally have not done this stretch of the highway, several friends,
like Nastassia from Belgium, who have traveled through here reassure me that it is
a very intense experience because once you get used to the many deep holes in the
road, then you start to notice that deforestation of the Amazon is palpably obvious
.
In addition, and in contrast to the river trip, in this bus journey, one would clearly
detect that all along the road are huge portions of the forest that have been completely deforested for agriculture and other uses. Similarly, despite the pathetic state
of these highways, you will witness lots of logging trucks, hauling not only the most
expensive timber, but, at the same time, profiting with the very guts of the “lungs
of our planet”, which is what these forests have been named by the most renowned
scientists in the planet.
By Boat
The shipping companies “Rodrigues Alves” and “AR Transport Waterways are
the main companies that regularly connect Santarem to other cities. However, being
in the middle of a commercial corridor as busy as the Manaus-Belem route, there are
many boats that can take you in any direction. Please check the table above, which
lists all shipping companies departing from Santarém, Manaus, and Belem. The table
has phone numbers to contact these companies for additional information.
Depending on river conditions, the trip from Manaus to Santarem takes approximately two days and another two days from Santarem to Belem. The two routes are
fun since there’s a lot of activity happening on the river. Even if the boat is far away
from the shore, you will be distracted by observing the many, and sometimes very
strange vessels, which circulate on this part of the river. They carry natural gas, petroleum, automobiles, livestock, and building materials, in addition to the thousands
of containers that cross the river, carrying millions of items and who knows what
else.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN SANTARÉM
Santarém is a charming city with good tourist infrastructure, including excellent
hotels, wonderful restaurants, and many taxis. It has the advantage of not being
as busy as the other cities of the Amazon. Like most towns, you will find the main
attractions outside the city and one of them is Green Lake, with waters that change color pretty intensively throughout the day. You’ll see it a soft blue color in the
morning and dark green in the afternoon. Another unique place is the famous river
beach, Alter do Chao.
79
Alter do Chão beaches – Like the Caribbean
How could you have a beach nearly 435 mi from the sea? How can there be a
beach resort in the middle of the Amazon? You’ll find out here.
Well, let me tell you that Alter do Chao is not only a beautiful beach, but with its
soft white sand, gentle waves, and tender breezes, many times tourists feel that they
are experiencing a famous Caribbean beach. This small town is 19 mi from the city of
Santarem, and it is a great place to unwind and relax. Alter do Chão is considered the
most famous resort area. Therefore, it is usually necessary stop for cruise ships.
Tapajós National – Artistic Gifts
Tapajós National is one of the reservations that you can visit that is approximately 40 minutes from the city center. The Tapajós indigenous nation had a large and
unique population before colonization. Still today, they have a very distinctive style
of decorating their pottery. You’ll find ceramics and statues very distinctive to their
culture, quite peculiar drawings of humans and animals. These make great gifts for
your friends back home, who unfortunately cannot be with you.
Lago Maica – Bird Watching
“Lake” Maica is formed by the river, and it is a great spot to experience the lifestyle of coastal populations and for bird watching. The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon. You can rent a boat in the harbor in front of the city market,
enjoy the Amazon itself, and do it safely.
THE JOURNEY CONTINUES... FROM SANTAREM TO BELEM
Be aware that Santarém has two ports, so make sure that you head for the correct one. Do not miss your boat. The main port, Docas do Pará, is near the downtown area, while the other, Porto Derr, is in the industrial part about 3 mi from
downtown.
80
81
Usually, ships to Belem sail late in the afternoon. A beautiful sunset will welcome those onboard to conclude our last part of this journey that we began in the
Peruvian Amazon. You have passed through Colombia, and now you are here downstream near the ocean.
We are approaching our final destination at the mouth of the potent river, so
take advantage of every moment, sitting silently at the bow, absorbing everything. I
assure you that you will miss these sunsets when you are back in your hometown.
YOU’RE AN EXPERIENCED AMAZON TRAVELER NOW!
Once we get underway, you will notice that there are some new passengers
onboard, and you know that they have the same questions and discomfort that you
had when you embarked the first time. Now, you are an experienced Amazon traveler, so this time you know how important it is to line up early for dinner, and don’t
plan on missing any more dinners. Later on, you will return to the upper deck with
wisdom or even arrogance. For this time, you know what is waiting.
You will greet old friends, play cards again, and, after a few beers, try again to
imitate the impossible Brazilian dance moves. Around 11:00 pm, the lights will go
out to start the “planetarium show”, revealing millions of twinkling and bright stars,
reminding you that you are still in the Amazon. Nevertheless, this time you will go
to bed early, because you already know that about 5 am, light purple colors will announce a new day, showing us an almost unreal display of colors in the sky.
In addition, you know that at 5:30 am, most passengers will be up and full of
energy. But what are they doing up so early? We are not sure, but we had better
get up and going before all the breakfast foods are gone. The people all seem to be
starving and act as if they have not eaten in three days, so the humble breakfast is
always very welcome. Breakfast is always the same: bread with butter and coffee
with sweet milk. There are no special meals, even if you are Chicago’s most famous
surgeon or a farm worker from a remote place in
the Pantanal. Here there are no distinctions, and
this is something everybody likes about the Amazon.
Awhile later, the early-morning tasty lunch
will be ready at 10:30 am, while the ship continues to make occasional stops in towns so remote
that you would only wonder why people choose
to live here.
82
THEY ARE NOT PIRATES
In this sector, a curiosity that catches
the attention of foreigners is that as we
sailed along the river, suddenly an indigenous people group appears over the
ship’s rail. At first, it scares the lights out
of you, until you realize that your life is
safe. They are not pirates as you may
have thought. They are only trying to sell
their products such as shrimp, hearts of
palm, and local fruits. What happens is that they battle the great waves created by
the ship, as they try to approach and hook the boat to then tie their canoes to the
ship.
Those who succeed will tie their canoes to the ship and proceed to climb the
walls to sell their products to the scared tourists. Those who failed to hold onto the
ship are lashed by the waves, and the only thing left to do is to swim back to their
canoes, while hoping for better luck on the next boat.
Underprivileged May Ask for Your Help
As we near Belem, you can
also see many canoes approaching
the ship, but, this time, they do
not try to catch it. These canoes,
manned by women and young
children, only come close to the
ship with the hope for some food
or clothing. These Indigenous
peoples live in a very depressing
area, and it shows in their huts
along the banks of the river. Most
of the huts are very basic, without
any comfort, too small to accommodate their extended families, and too far from
civilization to have water or electricity.
These people are not lucky, because they are too small to catch the boat and
climb its walls, or perhaps despair has already robbed them of their energy. It is
actually quite sad to see the children of these canoes, extending their hands and
begging for a contribution. Thank God, there are always passengers who come prepared and throw plastic bags with clothes, toys, or something to eat in the direction
of these helpless people. What a beautiful gesture of solidarity from the locals who
have so little, with those natives who have even less.
83
This collective compassion
is another beautiful reason that
ultimately captivates hearts
and brings hope not only to the
Amazon people, but also to the
entire planet and myself.
Anyway, after nearly 48
hours of sailing through dense
patches of tropical forest and
just when your hips were beginning to shake at the sound
of any Brazilian rhythm, you
will observe the Belem skyline
and suddenly feel uncomfortable. You have been in the jungle for too long. Nevertheless, the reality is that you
are almost at the end of your river journey.
Belem is a Very Busy Port
Now is the time you will start seeing many boats, sailing in all directions. Some
of them are very small, compared to transatlantic ships and other vessels that come
together here where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean. Belem, in the state of Para,
is one of the busiest ports in Brazil, and it located about 60 mi into the river from the
shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Now, we are at the entrance to this great city, built on
a series of small islands intersected by canals and rivers. The city’s backyard is the
great delta of the Amazon, while its neighbor across the street is the large island of
Marajo.
The excitement to visit the city continues to grow, while you pack up all our
belongings, giving a special place to our
hammock, not only within our suitcase, but
also especially within your heart. It’s important to realize that no matter how nice this
trip was, most passengers are desperate to
touch land, especially those like me, dreaming of a proper bathroom and a comfortable spacious bed.
84
85
CITY OF BELEM – MANGOS AND ACAI TREES
Belem is the largest city in northern Brazil, and has more than 2 million people.
It is a port of call, not only for commercial navigation throughout the area, but also
for many tourist cruise ships, in addition to the thousands of boats heading to the
Amazon. It is no wonder that the riverboats provide the bulk of transport along the
rivers. However, the city of Belem also has an excellent and efficient public transport
system with buses and taxis to every point within the city.
With more than 10,000 trees, mostly mango-trees that form green tunnels even
along the streets that carry most of the traffic and açaí palm trees, Belem offers an
array of excursions and open spaces along the rivers that surround the city, plus
eight different environmental parks. Moreover, in each month of October, for more
than 200 years, the city has hosted the Holy Lady of Nazareth Procession, one of the
world’s biggest religious events.
Belem is proud to be the cultural and economic center of northern Brazil and,
like any respectable city of Brazil, the nightlife attracts many people with its enchanting music, the sticky samba, and other traditional and popular dances.
How to Get There?
There are many domestic flights from Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Brasilia, Manaus, and other Brazilian cities, as well as many international flights from French
Guiana, Surinam, USA, and Europe. All flights arrive and depart from Val de Cans
International Airport in the northern part of the city.
What to Do?
Belem is one of Brazil’s five largest metropolitan regions and offers an array
of excursions and tourist events, dozens of cinemas and theatres, including one of
Brazil’s biggest and most beautiful theatre houses; important museums and hundreds of cultural and leisure options. Among the main attractions are the Goeldi
Museum, the Old Dock, the Vero Peso Market, Republic Square, Palácio Lauro Sodré,
and Mosquiero Island.
Goeldi Museum – Manatees & Wildlife
This museum offers a world-famous collection of ethnological and zoological
exhibitions of the Amazon. The museum has a botanical garden and is a home for
manatees, alligators, snakes, monkeys, birds, and other animals of the Amazon. In
addition, there’s an aquarium and the Museum of Ethnology.
86
The Old Dock – Dine on the Dock
These ancient Belem docks were renovated and now are housing the best and
most famous restaurants in town.
Vero Peso Market – Fresh Seafood
An open market has operated continuously since the seventeenth century, and
it’s right here at Vero Peso Market. This is an excellent location with the best restaurants in town and numerous foods stalls serving delicious and fresh seafood. Republic Square – Artist & Musician Performances
Here, inside the Republic Square, is the Teatro da Paz, built in 1874. This theater
has seen performances by many famous artists and musicians, both Brazilian and
international.
Cidade Velha – Interesting Old Time Houses
The Cidade Velha is the oldest part of town. Many houses were built in a French
style during the “rubber boom.”
Praça do Relógio – Big Ben
At Praca do Relógio, there’s a replica of Big Ben in London and the Palacio Antonio Lemos.
Museo da Cidade – A Palace
If you want to see opulence, go to the Museo da Cidade. This is an imperial-style
palace with very large rooms and imported furniture from Europe.
Palácio Lauro Sodré – Dungeons!
The Portuguese Crown officials built the Palácio Lauro Sodré in the 1770s, and it
contains many original paintings, a chapel, stables and even dungeons.
Icoaracy Village – Pottery
About 15 mi from the city, Icoaracy Village is very famous for its pottery and
Tapajonic Marajoara.
Ilha de Marajo – Ecology at Its Best
This is an ecological reserve with unspoiled beaches, many varieties of flora and
fauna, and abundant wildlife, including water buffalo.
Mosqueiro Island – Island Town
About 50 mi from Belem, Mosqueiro Island is popular for its beautiful river beaches, restaurants, bars, and hotels. It is connected to the mainland by the beautiful,
modern bridge Sebastião Oliveira. Once on the island, you can see the architecture
87
that reflects the many influences of Belem.
Well, the saying that all beautiful things have an end is very true in the Amazon. Therefore, I hope that after enjoying the city of Belem and its surroundings,
you would go back home to brag about your Amazon Expedition to your friends and
family. I don’t actually hope this; I know it will be true. You won’t be able to help
yourself!
Awestruck Journey
The truth is that the dense and beautiful jungle and river that is so massive and
beyond description has left you awestruck. I hope that your Amazon voyages was
more than what you wanted and expected, safe, and full of fun and fantastic experiences that will make you return soon, but this time with family and friends.
The Amazon is incredibly large, charming and yet terrifying at the same time.
Many times, this river, make us feel unstoppable, but very small at the same time. As
these contrasts constantly touch our soul and make us dream, or better yet, truthseekers... A trip to the Amazon suddenly makes you feel more aware and more responsible, not only for the environment, but for world peace and poverty. You cannot
stop wondering, what can I do to take better care of this spaceship called planet
Earth?
In any case, I am not going to say goodbye, as our adventures will continue.
However, no longer will we navigate the river, but we will be visiting special sites
adjacent to the Amazon basin, such as Lencois Maranhenses. We will be exploring
other routes that will eventually bring us up to this one sea of water, either by bus or
through the beautiful Caribbean routes from hidden Guyana. Nevertheless, for now,
enjoy this surprise bonus of the Lencois Maranhenses.
88
LENÇOIS MARANHENSES
I know that after reading this book, many of
you will cross-oceans and
come from distant places
to Brazil to explore the
Amazon, so I want to share with you a fabulous and
perfect destination for a
retreat at the “beach” after your expedition on the
Amazon River. Just on, the banks of the Amazon basin and about 12 hours by bus
from Belem, is the Lençóis Maranhenses. It’s a magical place, unique in the world,
and it would be a real shame to been so close and not go to see it.
Maranhenses Lençóis covers an area of about 300 square kilometers, and it is
composed of large and blinding white dunes that enclose beautiful turquoise lakes.
At first glance, it seems a typical desert, but this region is subject to a regular rainy
season every year when freshwater collects in the valleys between sand dunes. At
this time, the white desert is filled with hundreds of beautiful green and blue lagoons and many others full of clear water reflecting the sunlight and creating a beautiful picture that I can assure you have never seen.
All year round, it is a good time to visit, but the best months are July through
September, when you will see hundreds
of different colorful fish, whose eggs were
transported from the sea by various birds.
Do not miss this place; it is really worth it.
For now, let us get back to the jungle….
89
Chapter 6
BUS YOUR WAY TO THE AMAZON RIVER
This is the preferred route of many Venezuelans who want to realize their
dreams of navigating the largest river in the world, while practicing their knowledge
of Portuguese. This chapter will cover details on how to get from the capital of the
Republic of Venezuela to Manaus, Brazil, using the “highway” in the middle of the
90
jungle. Paradoxically, this road does not connect the city of Manaus to the rest of
Brazil, but only with its neighboring countries of Venezuela and Guyana.
We begin this journey by taking a bus from Caracas, the Venezuelan capital, to
the town of Santa Elena de Uairen in the Venezuelan border with Brazil. This bus trip
takes about 20 hours of travel and cost approximate $20. After crossing the border
into Brazil, you should take another bus for 14 hours that will take you through the
Amazon jungle, to your destination in the great city of Manaus.
Venezuelan Transportation service is very safe and comfortable, as the buses are
equipped with everything needed to make long journeys a pleasant experience with
A/C, clean toilets, televisions, DVDs, reading lights, reclining seats, and many other
amenities. There are two bus companies that can take you directly from Caracas to
Santa Elena de Uairen: Espresso Occidente and Espresso Los Llanos. The two companies have excellent service, and you will ride very safe routes.
If your time is limited, take a domestic flight, either on the airline, Avior, or any
of the other domestic airlines, which will take approximately 45 minutes on the journey to the towns of Bolivar or Puerto La Cruz in the Venezuelan state of Orinoco.
There are no direct commercial flights to the town of Santa Elena de Uairen. From
any of these cities you will need to take another bus for 12 hours before you finally
reach the Brazilian border. Most tourists who take the flights to Ciudad Bolivar go
there to visit Angel Falls, the tallest waterfalls in the world. If you have time, you too
should visit the falls, by either taking a guided tour or doing it yourself from Ciudad
Bolivar. Let’s take into consideration that this is a worldwide destination on our way
to the Amazon and make a quick stop to see the falls before continuing our trip to
the colossal river.
Angel Falls – Should Be One of the 7 Wonders of the World
This beautiful waterfall is the highest in the world with a plunge of 3,212 ft. That
number may mean nothing to you until I tell you that this is about sixteen times higher than Niagara Falls. It is located about 180 miles southeast of Ciudad Bolivar.
This cascade of extraordinary beauty is about 200 yards wide at its base, and
falls from Tepuis, which is a flat plateau unique part of the world. Angel Falls is a
waterfall that falls from the Auyan-tepui Mountains, which means “Mountain of
Hell” and were discovered in 1937 by Mr. James Angel, an American adventurer who
discovered the falls during a forced landing on a nearby hill. In fact, in Ciudad Bolivar,
you can see a replica of his aircraft that was used during his discovery.
91
Continue Your Bus Journey
However, let’s get back to Ciudad Bolivar so we can continue our original trip to
the Amazon; we need to ride another bus for 12 hours from Ciudad Bolivar to Santa
Elena. Don’t worry; the routes are in excellent condition and are very safe to travel.
We’ll take several buses during this route. It won’t take too long before we arrive
at the distant, but important, town of Santa Elena de Uairen. The city has 31,297
inhabitants and the presence of indigenous people is notable in the city as well as in
the outskirts of the city. In fact, if you have time, visit the indigenous community of
Manakrü, which is inhabited exclusively by Indians that still dominate this part of the
land. Even in Santa Elena, all the students in city schools are taught in both Spanish
and Pemon, the predominant indigenous language.
To get to the border of Brazil from Santa Elena de Uairen, you can take a collective taxi that normally costs around $2, leaving you right at the customs and immigration facilities. Here they will stamp your passport with a departure of Venezuela and
your entrance to Brazil, but remember that the Brazilian authorities will require the
certificate of yellow fever vaccine, in addition to the respective visa.
From here, you can take a collective taxi that will charge $6 to take you 90 minutes later to the city of Boa Vista.
92
CITY OF BOA VISTA
Boa vista means “Good View”, and it is a surprisingly large city with about
250,000 people. Boa Vista is the capital of the Brazilian state of Roraima and is situated on the western bank of the Rio Branco, 160 mi from the border between
Brazil and Venezuela.
It is also the only Brazilian state capital located completely north
of the line of Ecuador.
The city’s temperature
is hot all year with very
high humidity and annual precipitation well
over 2000 mm, making
this area an ideal place
for the growth of many
and various plants that
harbor a highly diverse
fauna.
After visiting the first city in the Amazon, and when you are ready to continue
your journey south, go to the central transport station to board one of the many buses that take you to Manaus. The trip takes 12 hours to transit through the heart of
the Amazon jungle, but do not worry, because the journey is comfortable and safe.
The Marco Polo luxury buses are modern and equipped with reclining seats, toilets,
A / C, and televisions to watch a couple of movies if you get bored reading.
By the way, Eucatur, the bus company in the Amazon area since 1964 (see contact information at the end of the book), also conducts a service every Thursday
from Caracas directly to Manaus through the Venezuelan cities of Puerto La Cruz,
Puerto Ordaz and Santa Elena, before crossing to Boa Vista, and finally to Manaus.
The cost is about $60. It takes about 36 hours to complete the journey from Caracas
to Manaus.
Obviously, the trip through the Amazon road is not as smooth and comfortable
as in the Venezuelan eastern plains, since every winter the Amazon forest renews
its efforts to reclaim the land, instantly pulling cubic meters of rain that immediately
make huge potholes on the highway. Fortunately, professional drivers, who already
seem to know every pothole in the “highway”, drive these double-decker buses.
They are also aided by advanced suspension systems, so that at the end, if the movie
onboard is good enough to keep you captivated, you will find your journey quite
pleasant.
93
If you travel by day, you can visit some of the Indian reservations along the route,
but the vast majority of people continue all the way to the city of Manaus. Keep in
mind that in Brazil, before any foreigner would visit an Indian reservation, you must
request permission from the National Indigenous Foundation (FUNAI).
Road Closings at Night
Another important note is that the trans-Amazon highway is closed at night to
private vehicles, and only some bus companies and government vehicles are permitted to transit at that time. This restriction is part of the road construction agreement
signed with the indigenous peoples to minimize the impact on the environment.
Mass Transit Systems
After visiting some of the tribes, you will arrive in Manaus, where there’s not
only a green landscape, but also a modern city with mass transit systems for more
than 1.5 million people inhabiting the largest jungle city in the land. Manaus in Indian language means “Mother of God”, and, today, it is a city with many high-rise
buildings and a port capable of docking the most immense transatlantic ships.
You Won’t Believe the Price of This Hotel
The city is located on the north shore of the Rio Negro, about 10 mi from the
site where the Amazon River meets the Rio Negro still 900 mi away from the mouth
in Belem. Manaus is the heart of the Amazon basin, and an important center for
world tourism. It has all the amenities of any modern city in the world, but with the
unique characteristic of being localized in the nucleus of the Amazon rainforest. Anyway, your stay at a humble hostel is only $5 per night for a sumptuous and opulent
five-star hotel.
Manaus has a large number of tourist attractions and you’ll need at least a
couple of weeks to see them all, but probably your main mission is to navigate the
powerful Amazon River like the thousands of tourists coming to Manaus. You will
94
need to define whether you are going to follow the river upstream heading to Peru
and Colombia or if you would rather stay in Brazil, heading downstream to the Atlantic Ocean to reach the mouth of the river. Either direction the river is astonishing. In
both directions, the river is fragile and we all need to work together to keep it clean
and free of pollution for our future generations. In any case, for more information
about the city of Manaus and navigation in the Amazon, review Chapters 4 and 5.
My Dear Traveler Friend, I hope that you had a lot of fun traveling by bus to the
Amazon and that this route was not too tiresome for you, as we now are heading for
the true wild routes made for hardcore adventurers only.
So get the machete out and let’s go!
95
Chapter 7
THE WILD ROUTES
ROADS TO THE AMAZON JUNGLE (ONLY FOR TRUE ADVENTURES)
In this chapter, you will find a brief description of different paths connecting the
cities of Iquitos, Peru, and Manaus, Brazil that greatly differs from those described
in previous chapters. We will be traveling either through the peaks of the Andean
mountains or through the undiscovered flatlands territories of the Guyana.
As we all know, there are thousands of different ways to enter the Amazon basin, as it has international borders in nine countries and from each of them people
could walk into the jungle. The Amazon is also a sea of water, formed by the largest
river system in the world, with more than 1,100 tributaries, seventeen of which are
over 1,000 mi long. However, most of these territories lack basic infrastructure, making them virtually impossible to penetrate, although I have no doubt that if the
Europeans found a way in the 1500s, today, you too would discover your own path.
These routes are material for another book, but here I will give a brief overview
of some jungle routes as an illustration. If you plan to use any of these routes, then
you need to get more information from other sources that prepare you better for
your personal expedition. Again, I remind you that these routes are for very adventurous travelers only, and they are not advisable to travel with children or elderly
people, since there is no adequate tourism infrastructure in place making these
routes a bit uncomfortable.
From the Andean Mountains of Peru
From Lima, the best way to get to the Amazon is to take a domestic flight that
will take you comfortably to either of the two cities about 50 minutes later.
Nevertheless, I guess if you are reading this chapter, you like adventure and
would rather travel by bus. So, from the central station in Lima, take the bus that
will take you to the cities of Pucallpa or to the city of Yurimaguas at the base of the
Andean Mountains.
The best route takes approximately 750 miles to Yurimaguas and about 500 miles to the city of Pucallpa, and the best way to reach either of the two cities is via the
96
Amazonas el río por primera vez ... y para siempre.
97
city of Huanuco. From Lima,
Huanuco is located about
250 miles, and you need to
continue crossing the mountains approximately another
80 miles to the town of Tingo Maria. Here, the roads
separate; and, if you head
east 190 miles, you will be
in Pucallpa. If you decide to
continue your journey to Yurimaguas, then from the city
of Tingo Maria, you should
continue northward another
320 miles more until you reach the city of Tarapoto, and
finally 95 miles more to reach
your destination in Yurimaguas. Usually this bus tour takes two and half days, provided there are no mechanical problems or road access problems. Obviously, during
the rainy season, the roads are muddy and difficult to drive. However, once you are
in Yurimaguas, only $15 and 3 days navigating the river separates you from the city
of Iquitos.
If you decide to start your navigation in the city of Pucallpa, then you will have
fewer bumps in the road, but you still will need $25 and a little bit of luck catching
the vessel. The unscheduled boat service usually turns out to be longer than the 5
days that they advertise it. For example, you may be stranded for 10 days. No matter
what, your trip will be a solid 5 days to get from Pucallpa to Iquitos.
As you can imagine, in these remote areas of the planet, the schedules are very
unreliable; and, most likely, you will have to wait until the ship has completed loading
their holds and that would mean a delay of up to several days. Usually, they let you
hang your hammock on the boat, while waiting for the ship departure; however, if
you are not comfortable sleeping in the boat, you can rent one of the local “hotels”
for about $3 to $15 per night in either city.
Once you get going, but before arriving in Iquitos, you will come to the city of
Nauta, where most of the passengers chose to disembark and take collective taxis
that will take us to the city of Iquitos in less than 90 minutes. This will save up to
eight hours of river transportation time. The value of the collective taxi is $5, and,
like the bus, which only charges $1, both will take you near the main square in downtown Iquitos.
98
From the Ecuadorian Andes
To reach the City of Coca, we need to catch a flight from the Ecuadorean capital
of Quito, which will take us over the Andes Mountains, and 35 minutes later, we will
land in the beautiful and picturesque town of Coca next to the Napo River. The local
flight cost is about $65 and several airlines would take you to this destination.
The other alternative, much cheaper, is to take the bus from the central station
in the city of Quito to Coca, giving us the opportunity to see some of the most astonishing and fantastic Andean landscapes. Although you will be a little tired on this
trip, there’s a reward: wonderful vistas, perfect for those pictures you have always
dreamed and that will make your friends envy you. In addition, I assure you that this
journey will be full of lively stories, lovely sounds, and unforgettable horizons all the
way up to the city of Coca. The cost of this bus is $9, and the journey lasts for about
10 hours.
Coca is an oil town in the middle of the jungle with a small port on the Napo
River. From here, the only transportation mode is by waterways. Fortunately, from
Coca, several ships depart about three times a week to the border town of Rocafuerte. The trip from Coca city to the town of Rocafuerte takes about 12 hours, and the
cost is about $12. In Rocafuerte, your passport will be stamped with the Ecuadorean
exit stamp, taking a boat across to the Peruvian border in the town of Pantoja, where
we will go through the Peruvian immigration and customs check.
Once we are properly documented in Peru, we will border the boat that will
take us from the town of Pantoja to the city of Iquitos. Unfortunately, on this side of
the border, the boats are less regular, and you need to be aware that sometimes it
may take several days until they complete their cargo. In the meantime, the captain
will invite us to hang our hammock and feel at
home. If you want another option, there are
plenty of small and humble hotel facilities ranging from $5 to $20.
The route to Iquitos varies from 4 to 7
days, depending on the level of river water
and weather conditions. When these boats
are available, they tend to fill up completely.
I In this case on this route, it is advisable to
rent cabins, which cost about $25 extra per
day. However, the trip in the hammock only
costs $15. Chances are, though, that you will
have someone sleeping above or below you,
or both, an experience that also can be truly
memorable.
99
Be aware that when the ship arrives in the city of Masan, most passengers will
choose to get off and take alternative means to Iquitos. The usual way is to take a
mototaxi for $1 that will take us across the city of Masan, and, from here, take a fast
boat to Iquitos. This way we will be saving approximately 10 hours of travel time.
As most passengers
opt for this alternative
route, there are usually
many mototaxis and boats
waiting to make your
transportation easier to
Iquitos. However, for security reasons, if the boat
arrives at night at the city
of Masan, it will be best to
stay on board sleeping in
the hammock until we arrive in the city of Iquitos early the next morning.
From Guyana and Suriname
This route is mainly for Europeans who come to visit the beautiful beaches of
the Caribbean and want to use the crossing of the Atlantic Ocean to visit the most
famous rivers in the world. These routes apply, especially from Guyana, Suriname
and French Guiana, as there are several direct flights from anywhere in the world to
these beautiful places.
From New York and London, you can fly directly to Georgetown. From Paris,
choose a domestic flight directly to Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana. The third
capital is Paramaribo, in Surinam, and it has direct flights from Amsterdam. In this
part of the Americas, it is possible to travel over land to Manaus in the Amazonas
state or to Macapa in the State of Amapá.
From Cayenne to Brazil Amapá and Belem)
If you want to see the mouth of the Amazon widening more than 300 miles on
the Atlantic coast, then from the city of Cayenne, the capital of French Guyana, head
120 miles south to the town of St. Georges, the most southern city of French Guiana.
From here, take the ferry that will cross the river to the small town of Oiapoque in
the state of Amapá, Brazil.
The city of Oiapoque is on the northern coast of Brazil and at the very end of
highway BR-156. The landscape that characterizes this region is prime forests of the
vast Amazon jungle, and incredibly still about 70 percent of this territory has not
yet been explored. When we continue traveling south, you will come to the line of
Ecuador, which separates the Brazilian states of Amapá and Pará, in addition to separating the northern and southern hemispheres.
100
The capital of the state of
Amapá is Macapa, with a population close to half a million
people so you will find plenty
of facilities, and a few interesting tourist attractions, such as
the Sao Jose Fort completed in
1782 after 20 years of labor by
Indians and slaves.
The state of Para is divided
from continental Brazil by the
mouth of the Amazon River. The
only transportation to the city of Belem is by boat or by aircraft. Once you reach
Belem, you will have plenty of transportation choices to anywhere in Brazil.
From Georgetown to Boa Vista (Roraima, Brazil)
Obviously, you can fly to Manaus from Georgetown, but be prepared to pay high
rates for this one-hour flight. Another less expensive alternative to see the largest
rivers in Brazil is to take a bus to the city of Boa Vista and then another bus to the
city of Manaus.
From Georgetown, the most convenient way to cross the border is via the Takutu
River Bridge about 400 miles south. The bus leaves at 21:00 and takes about 14 hours
through the jungle until you reach the majestic Rupununi savannas, before crossing
the international Takutu Bridge in the Guyanese town of Lethem. This beautiful
and modern international bridge opened in 2009, and joins the city of Lethem with
the Brazilian city of Bomfim. This small border town of Bomfim is only 60 minutes
away from Boa Vista, the capital of the
Brazilian state of Roraima. The approximate cost for the
bus trip from Georgetown to Lethem
is $30, and the bus
cost from the town
of Bomfim to the
city of Boa Vista is
less than $4.
In Boa Vista, several bus companies
want your business
101
for the 14-hour ride that separates us from Manaus. Take a bus during the day that
will allow you to see the beauty of the Amazon jungle or take a night bus, sleep
on the bus and save yourself a night of hotel expenses. Either way, the journey is
comfortable, because the modern buses have air conditioning, television, and clean
bathrooms, all for only $30.
For more information on traveling from the city of Boa Vista to the city of Manaus, review Chapter 6, “Bus Your Way to the Amazon”.
Please keep in mind that the above trips are all done through the jungles of
South America, and, whether we like it or not, we are damaging the forest. We need
to make a good effort to behave as responsible tourists, while practicing sustainable
tourism whenever possible. And that is the topic of our next chapter, where you will
learn how to take care of this precious natural resource call Amazon river and why
should we care about it.
102
103
Chapter 8
CONSERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE TOURISM
The implementation of sustainable tourism in a responsible manner
is perhaps one of the best ways to
preserve the rainforest, and their
biological and ethnic diversity while also helping to eradicate poverty.
Ultimately, this contributes to the
preservation of humanity.
No doubt, we all need to understand the value and monumental importance of the Amazon River
for the preservation of humanity
and unless we all practice sustainable tourism, it will be very difficult
for future generations to come to
enjoy this wonderful river, which
undoubtedly is a lung for the entire
planet Earth.
Also, I confess that while writing this book, I am dreaming of tourism that is organized, efficient, and very green for future generations. Sustainable tourism cannot
be just a buzzword in the XXI century. After you visit the Amazon and return to your
city, I hope that you will become, at least passively, an advocate to not only this natural wonder called the Amazon River but also an advocate of the natural resources
of your own locality.
Until now, the concept of sustainable tourism may have been a very abstract
concept for you but after visiting the Amazon, I assure you that you will understand
exactly the practical applications of “sustainable tourism”. You will be able to implement life lessons that you have learned on this beautiful journey.
A Prerequisite for Traveling
Throughout this book, I have been inviting you to navigate the river, but perhaps
104
I forgot to tell you that there is only one prerequisite. That prerequisite is to implement this type of tourism, not only in learning and having fun in this so spectacular
place, but by also contributing as a responsible tourist, respecting nature, not contaminating it, protecting it, and making practical use of all the recommendations
that the indigenous peoples give you in the
places that you visit.
Your contribution can be, for example,
to put trash in the appropriate deposits. It
can be that you do not burn, do not kill or
remove the various species, both flora and
fauna. It can be that you respect indigenous
customs of the place.
Your Oxygen Source
I am frequently called and asked to encourage visitors to participate in local
programs, either directly by giving support to any group of volunteers. It might be
during your visit, or later when you go home, supporting different organizations,
which today are actively taking care of our planet to try to ensure the survival of our
own generation and generations to come. Above all, one of the main reasons this
book is here is to remind you that we must not forget that the Amazon is the lungs
of the world. The Amazon is responsible, in a large way, for the oxygen we breathe
in California, China, and Canada.
Your Generosity to Your Friends Helps the Indigenous
At the same time, another reason to come to the Amazon (and always within
the theme of sustainable tourism) is that your visit may indirectly become a labor of
love. You will want to leave, even a small part of your financial resources, with some
people who are much less fortunate. Obviously, I am not suggesting that you give
away your money, but rather that you support local economies by buying handicrafts
and souvenirs directly from the natives and hiring their services directly, whenever
possible.
In addition, we all know that this part of the biological world is immensely rich,
but also an area where many people lack necessities. And here, studies have proven
that responsible tourism helps local communities eradicate poverty. Therefore, if
we practice this journey with responsibility, economic benefits will be given to the
communities that we will visit.
105
This Trip Changes Your Life
I suggest that you come to participate in this project of life, because even if at
this moment you are unable to come to the Amazon, there are many ways to help.
In my case, I am writing this book primarily to help more people visit the Amazon
easily and comfortably. I am convinced that after you view the Amazon, your heart
will view life differently. Your life will change radically. Secondly, I do not want to become another economic operator of the Amazon, and I will be distributing most of
the profits of this book to agencies that require its aid, ones that are dedicated to the
conservation of the Amazon, as was detailed in the introduction to this book.
I know that in these days of global crisis, perhaps it might be difficult for you to
visit the Amazon. However, I want to make sure, that I am making a conscious effort
to transmit the sense of urgency that we should all give to the problems of global
warming, deforestation and other environmental problems that are threatening our
survival. Therefore, if, at this moment, all we can do is a small donation to support
some community or other entity Amazon to your liking, do it now, for a little help
today may be vital to our future.
And, even more important than any gift, is to implement sustainable tourism
even in your own home. We all need to ensure better use of water, electricity, and
better care of plants and trees around us. Just as we do when we travel, we consistently recycle waste from our homes or even better, minimize them.
Anyway, start planning your trip, because I know with certainty that unless it’s in
your heart to experience the exquisiteness of this beautiful crowded place, you may
not understand the globalism of the problems. Believe me, it is wonderful to feel the
embrace of an indigenous child and see the love that these people have for visitors.
Amazingly, the Amazon people are friendly, humble, and loving, and see their way
of life in peace with nature, fully integrated into it, living in harmony with nature as
though it’s the only way to live.
You are Loved from the Minute They Set Eyes on You
The best part is that they always welcome tourists warmly, despite the fact that
many of us do not show any respect for their culture and its resources. (By cutting
thousands of trees every day, we continue to endanger their survival, and, in the
near future, we endanger our very own.) Indeed, recall that we are not only fighting
for the conservation of natural resources, but also for the thousands of people living
in the Amazon for centuries.
106
Will You Embrace These Goals?
Similarly, I hope I conveyed that the preservation of the environment and the
alleviation of poverty have become major goals in my life, because I believe these
are essential to world peace and are a moral obligation for all of us who can do something about it.
I am also aware that I alone cannot
eradicate poverty along the mighty Amazon River, but I know perfectly well that if,
through this book, you become more conscious and firmly commit yourself to look after the precious resources that we still have,
that would be more than enough.
My greatest wish is that you also decide
to take concrete actions, eventually making
a big difference in the lives of others. In this
way, your friends may decide to imitate you,
and, before you know it, you have formed
a small group to help improve a community. As time goes by, a few years later the
benefits are passed onto others. Moreover, maybe some people were helped to con-
107
tinue to survive, as they have done through the centuries.
Who knows … maybe in a couple of decades, your grandchildren that come to
visit and enjoy the Amazon basin find it cleaner, greener, and different in many ways,
all for the better.
To conclude, this important and essential chapter, I want to share with you some
advice based on the Code of Ethics for Tourism of the World Tourism Organization
(WTO). Pay close attention to Advice #1, which is directly related to our next chapter,
Indigenous Cultures.
THE RESPONSIBLE
TOURIST AND TRAVELLER
Travel and tourism
should be planned and
practiced as a means of
individual and collective
fulfillment. When practiced with an open mind, it
is an irreplaceable factor
of self-education, mutual
tolerance and for learning
about the legitimate differences between peoples
and cultures and their diversity.
Everyone has a role to play creating responsible travel and tourism. Governments, business and communities must do all they can, but as a guest, you can support this in many ways to make a difference:
1
Open your mind to other cultures and traditions – it will transform your experience, you will earn respect and be more readily welcomed by local people.
Be tolerant and respect diversity – observe social and cultural traditions and
practices.
2
Respect human rights. Exploitation in any form conflicts with the fundamental aims of tourism. The sexual exploitation of children is a crime punishable
in the destination or at the offender’s home country.
3
Help preserve natural environments. Protect wildlife and habitats and do not
purchase products made from endangered plants or animals.
108
4
Respect cultural resources. Activities should be conducted with respect for
the artistic, archaeological and cultural heritage.
5
Your trip can contribute to economic and social development. Purchase local
handicrafts and products to support the local economy using the principles of
fair trade. Bargaining for goods should reflect an understanding of a fair wage.
6
Inform yourself about the destination’s current health situation and access to
emergency and consular services prior to departure and be assured that your
health and personal security will not be compromised. Make sure that your
specific requirements (diet, accessibility, medical care) can be fulfilled before
you decide to travel this destination.
7
Learn as much as possible about your destination and take time to understand the customs, norms and traditions. Avoid behavior that could offend the
local population.
8
Familiarize yourself with the laws so that you do not commit any act considered criminal by the law of the country visited. Refrain from all trafficking
in illicit drugs, arms, antiques, protected species and products or substances
that are dangerous or prohibited by national regulations.
The advice above is based on the Global Code of Ethics for Tourism of the World
Tourism Organization.
109
Chapter 9
INDIGENOUS CULTURES
The Amazon River and its forests, is an expression of the explosion of life. Not
only millions of species of plants and animals live in these rainforests, but also there
are many Indians who call the jungle “our home”.
In fact, on January 18, 2007, FUNAI reported that it had confirmed the presence
of 67 different tribes “uncontacted” in Brazil. The term “uncontacted” refers to indigenous groups living in the Amazon jungle that do not have any contact with the
outside world.
Today, nearly 70 indigenous groups still have no regular contact with modern
civilization and stay away
from any intruder. The Brazilian government’s policy
towards these groups is to
leave them alone as they
want to live. Therefore, not
much is known about these groups, as they continue
into the woods whenever
the “whites” could be closer.
You should keep in mind that in Brazil, before any foreigner visits an Indian reservation, you must request permission from the National Indigenous Foundation
(FUNAI), which is the Brazilian government body that establishes and carries out
policies relating to Indians.
This institution is responsible for protecting the lands traditionally inhabited by
these communities, besides being responsible for preventing invasions of indigenous lands by outsiders.
Who is the FUNAI?
The FUNAI is composed of several departments, one of which is the General
Coordination Unit of uncontacted Indians (CGII), which was established in 1987. It is
110
dedicated to the protection of different indigenous groups that have very little contact, precisely so that they can remain virgins with their customs and way of life, thus
avoiding any contamination they may receive from any outsider and simultaneously
protecting their environment.
It is important to know that the department was founded as a result of death
and disease caused by visitors and missionaries who previously sought to make contact with previously isolated tribes. Therefore, to avoid these unfortunate situations,
the FUNAI will discuss and consider whether your application meets all the requirements. If it does, they will issue the respective permit for you to visit the reserve.
Why Indigenous Peoples Have Disappeared
Unfortunately, indigenous peoples have been disappearing along with the land
they live on. This has happened since Europeans began to colonize their land 500
years ago. Unknowingly, the first European explorers brought diseases like smallpox,
measles, influenza, and other more common diseases. Unfortunately, the Indians
had no immunity against these diseases because they had never been exposed to
them. Because of the interaction between the indigenous people and those outside
their own circles, more than 90 percent of indigenous people died from disease;
diseases that we now regard as minor ones.
Besides disease as a major issue, for many years, indigenous groups have been
expelled and killed by settlers who wanted their land. In other situations, the indigenous groups were enslaved in sugar plantations or mining operations. However,
until some 40 years ago, the lack of roads kept many settlers from reaching deeper
into indigenous territories, but this situation has been changing recently. With the
construction of more roads, mainly financed by logging and oil companies, ranchers
and miners are coming into contact with the tribes. Together, these business conglomerates have opened up vast areas of the Amazon, which have made exploitation
and destruction of millions of hectares of forest each year possible. Of course, it has
irreparably damaged the habitat of many tribes.
Don’t They Own The Rainforest?
The fact is that these indigenous peoples have inhabited the Amazon rainforest
for thousands of years, and this has been their home since then. They were born
there and have died there, for many generations. In fact, the first accounts reported
on these people are in the manuscripts made by European explorers, indicating that
the Amazon peoples were a much denser population than today. Many of these original peoples, the Caribs, (named after the Caribbean), have completely disappeared, and many others have very few remnants remaining of their culture.
Sadly, although these indigenous peoples were the owners of these lands, li-
111
ving there for thousands
of years, they have no
“titles” of these lands.
As a result, governments
and other outsiders do
not recognize their rights
to land. The Indians are
moved to different areas,
sometimes very close to
heavily populated cities,
making them live in extreme poverty because they
have no skills to live in the
city. For example, they may have more knowledge about medicinal plants and forest
foods than any university scientist who has taken a lifetime studying in the subject.
Nevertheless, when it comes to buying groceries at any store, these same Indians fail
miserably. They do not know understand the value of the currency or goods since
everything they need is taken from the forest.
Little by little, this process of extermination of indigenous people should not be
as aggressive and brazen as it was when Europeans arrived, but it has continued in a
more subtle way that can be even disguised with legality.
Another effective method of extermination is the provocation of war. When their
land is invaded for dams, roads, or mine projects, the natives are always at a disadvantage since their weapons cannot compare to the modern and fatal weaponry of
the settlers. Once the whites win the battle, trading companies force the indigenous
people to labor in ruthless and inhumane conditions.
Previously, the Amazon rainforest was a giant shelter for the indigenous population, as there were no commercial reasons for colonists to enter the jungle. However, after the first half of last century, came the rubber boom. After that was the
gold rush, and, today, colonists are after precious woods. That is why, every day, we
find less indigenous peoples, and those who survive are under pressure from new
settlers. Some, like farmers, are considered by the government as legal settlers, but,
to make matters worse, there are many illegal timber cutters, drug dealers, miners,
and even biological traffickers trying to claim a share of the jungle, while their illicit
business grows at the expense of the survival of indigenous peoples.
The Indigenous Groups Themselves
Anyway, today, there are still over 200 indigenous groups in the Amazon jungle,
speaking 180 different languages and each has its own cultural heritage. If we only
look at their languages, then we can reduce the languages to almost 30 in the Ama-
112
zon rainforest. This shows us that, just like the flora and fauna and cultural diversity,
the region is very rich.
Twenty-two different ethnic groups reside only in the northwest part of the
Amazon rainforest in an area close to Brazil, Colombia and Venezuela. These 22 indigenous groups are different (Baniwa, Kuripako, Dow, Hupda, Nádob, Yuhupde, Bare,
Warekena, Arapaso, Bara, Barasana Desana, Karapanã, Kube, Makuna, Mirity-tapuya,
Pira-tapuya, Siriano, Tariana, Tucano, Tuyuca, Wanana, Tatu, Taiwan, Yurutí, Kakwa,
and Nukak), and each speaks their own language. Although the languages are different, they all interact with each other in a large network of marriages, feasts, rituals,
and commerce. The total population of these groups is about 65,000 people.
Another important group of uncontacted indigenous peoples is in the Upper
Xingu, in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso. There are 14 ethnic groups (Aweti, Kalapalo, Kamaiura Kuikuro, Matipu, Mehinako, Nahukuá, Trumai, Wauja, Yawalapiti,
Ikpeng, Kaiabi his, and Yudja) in the area. The first 10 ethnic groups, such as the
Northwest Amazon, have different languages, but share the same rituals, have similar cultures, and they marry each other, participate at the same parties, and trade
among themselves.
The last four groups are very different and have almost no contact with others,
although there is still some cultural exchange.
There are other groups in the Amazon jungle. More than 70 groups have regular
contact with outsiders, and, although the indigenous population is growing, they are
still in great danger.
Therefore, and mainly in Brazil, access to remote areas where uncontacted tribes could be found is highly restricted, and we must remember that it is essential to
observe these restrictions. These regulations help prevent unwanted interference
and protect their communities from diseases to which they have little immunity.
Ayahuasca is Illegal
Similarly, other indigenous groups have opened their doors to travelers who
want to learn about their culture. That has made the community tourism industry
continue to grow in South America, but remember to take the ceremonies and rituals very seriously. Also, keep in mind that Ayahuasca and other psychoactive drugs
play an important role in the religious life of some communities in the jungle, but it
is illegal for foreigners to take these drugs.
113
Great Harm Done
Similarly, today the penetration into the forest by foreigners is doing great harm
to indigenous traditions, habits, hunting and fishing, and their culture in general.
Unfortunately, there are many tribes that have been decimated in confrontations
with foreigners, and much of their vast knowledge regarding thousands of plants
and animals have been lost forever.
Lifestyle Dependent on the Rainforest
As we have seen throughout our imaginary journey down the Amazon, some
indigenous people live much the same as we do, and many others still live as their
ancestors did thousands of years ago. These communities organize their daily lives
differently than our culture. They obtain their food, medicine, and clothing mainly
from the forest.
For example, most non-tribal children go to schools like ours. Indigenous children learn about the forest with their parents and others in their communities. They
are taught how to survive in the woods. They learn to hunt and fish, and learn which
plants are useful as drugs or food. Therefore, some of these kids know more about
rainforests than scientists who have been studying the forest for many years.
Besides hunting, gathering wild fruits, nuts, and fish, the Indians also have small
gardens and other food sources. They use sustainable farming methods called shifting cultivation where they first clear a small area of land and then burn it. Then
114
they plant many types of plants to be used for food and medicine. After a few years,
the soil has become too poor to harvest any crops, and the only thing that grows is
weeds. Then they move on and start growing plants in a new area.
The original land is allowed to grow freely for another 10 or 15 years, before they
grow again. Shifting cultivation is still practiced by indigenous groups that have access to large amounts of land. However, with the growing number of foreign farmers
that are new to the jungle and exploiters of the forest by other groups, indigenous
people have been forced to remain in the same area. Obviously, the land becomes
a desert after years of overuse, and therefore cannot be used for agriculture, with
fatal results for these individuals.
As is well known, the natives worship the forest, which to this date has protected them from foreigners and gave them everything they need. They live what is
called a sustainable existence, meaning they use of land without harming the plants
and animals. As an Indian wise man once said, “The earth is our historian, our teacher, the provider of food, medicine, clothing, and protection. She is the mother of
our race.”
Are They Like Canaries in a Mine?
In the nineteenth century, lead miners took canaries in the mines with them because the birds were very sensitive to toxic gases. If the birds died, it was a warning
to miners that they too would die, unless they fled the premises. Jason W. Clay has
compared the rainforests and their inhabitants to the canary’s miners. Today we can
see that Indians are dying. However, we can no longer escape from the earth. We
can only change our ways.
Within the next few decades, the fate of indigenous peoples is in our hands.
They occupy fragile environments; they embody valuable knowledge that may well
decide once and for all. A number of individuals, corporations, and some states are
already implementing their own “final solution”. So the nineteenth century (and
20th and 21st) will be remembered either as the century where we destroyed much
of the genetic and cultural diversity of the Earth or as the century in which people
learned to live together and share knowledge in order to maintain diversity from
which we all depend.
“Working together, we can make a world of difference.”
----Rainforest Action Network
So hopefully after reading this short section, you also agree that the indigenous
peoples are also entitled to live in dignity and freedom. Together we celebrate our
differences, and that diversity enriches the lives and culture. Moreover, we must
remember that this ancient people have an enormous amount of information that
115
116
is irreplaceable knowledge. They have many skills on how to live and use natural
resources without destroying them.
One mesmerizing aspect of the indigenous culture is their deep knowledge
about the use of trees and medicinal plants from the forest. They do not have pharmacies or hospitals like those that we do in modern society, so it’s easy to wonder
how these people have survived for thousands of years. The next chapter will give
us hard to believe highlights about how they have managed to do that using Amazon rainforest medicinal plants.
117
Chapter 10
MEDICINAL PLANTS OF THE AMAZON
One of the most fascinating things about the Amazon is the medicinal plants. In
Iquitos, Belem, Manaus, and any big city at the outdoor markets, you will find many
vendors selling herbs – pounds and pounds of them. Manaus is the most impressive,
and you should not miss it! It is an amazing thing to see. Everywhere on the streets,
you can get tea; not the regular tea that everyone talks about here, but tea made
from the forest plants. You can get relaxing mint teas or other teas to energize you.
The variety will amaze you.
I can’t tell you how many times I have been at the market when I’ve overheard
this type of conversation: someone walks up to one of the vendors and says, “I have
a pain in my back. What herb do I take?” or “I can’t sleep at night. What should I do?”
Instead of going to the pharmacy, the local people go straight to the wise men that
sell these herbs. Many are shamans, well versed in how to use the plants from the
rainforest to cure any illness. Sometimes a shaman will tell someone to go see the
vendor next to him because he (the shaman) doesn’t have the right herb, but the
one next to him does.
When a shaman from the rainforest dies without passing on his knowledge to
the next generation, the world loses thousands of years of irreplaceable knowledge
about medicinal and natural herbs. It’s like losing a library.
On one trip, I had a conversation with a man from Germany that was asking
shamans many questions for several hours. I took him out for lunch afterwards and
asked him what he did for a living. He worked for a pharmaceutical drug company in
Germany and told me that his whole purpose there was to find out what plants are
used for what illnesses so that he could bring back the plants to Germany. Then his
company would do research on the plant to see what it had in it that would work
for the disease. If it worked, they would make drugs out of the substance that was
isolated from the plant.
You already know that I’m all for investing in the indigenous people and their
plants. That’s why I believe in using the herbs from the Amazon for healing. I know
that we all benefit from the drugs that the pharmaceutical industry has created as
118
119
well; for example, we wouldn’t have anesthetics if it wasn’t for them. I couldn’t imagine having surgery without anesthetic!
Before I went to the Amazon, I never knew how much these herbs could do for
the body or for our health. However, after going down there and seeing how much
they depend on the plants for everything (their health, their clothing, and their shelter), I truly believe that they have the answer to our health problems: their Amazon
herbal remedies.
That’s why I asked my good friend, Dr. Donna Schwontkowski, a retired chiropractor and Master Herbalist who has been researching the Amazon herbs since
1990 to write this chapter. I knew you would prefer an expert on the medicinal herbs, and she fits the bill perfectly. She’s the author of the book, Herbs of the Amazon,
Traditional and Common Uses (1993, 1995) and numerous articles on these herbs.
She has worked with companies as their technical advisor on the herbs at a time
when virtually no one in the U.S. knew about these plants. Dr. Donna did her own
independent studies on these powerful Amazon herbs. In Thailand, she was honored
for introducing the herbs to the people there. Thousands of people use herbs of the
Amazon because of her.
Dr. Donna’s work now involves creating customized herbal formulas for people
who want to use Amazon herbs to improve their health and training people how to
use Amazon herbs as well. She’s like a modern day U.S. shaman in a way. I like what
she does, because it supports the indigenous people and makes people here in the
U.S. healthier. So here she is ready to talk to you on the next page.
When You Want True Healing, Use Amazon Herbs
When you want true healing, use Amazon herbs. That’s what I say because no
one can ever improve on the herbs found in the Amazon.
Herbs contain dozens and sometimes hundreds of medicinal constituents, and
each one of them is like a color of the rainbow; every part of that rainbow brings you
good health. Each one of these medicinal constituents work together, and, when
someone tries to use only one of the many constituents found in an herb, it doesn’t
work as well as the whole herb. The purpose of all those other constituents is to
prevent the side effects!
Pharmaceutical companies have developed 121 drugs from plants in the Amazon rainforest, where they have taken one constituent from a plant and made it
work to eliminate a health issue. A full 25% of Western drugs are derived from these
medicinal plants. The distribution of drugs is worldwide, but 80% of the world still
uses plant medicine.
120
It’s a true wonder that
the indigenous peoples in the
Amazon are dependent on
the rainforest for their entire livelihood – health, food,
and shelter and don’t use any
drugs, just the simple herbs. When they make herbal
remedies, they may make a
tea, mix the herb with water
and apply it to the skin, add
the herb to boiling water and
breathe it in, smoke an herb,
make a mouthwash of an
herb and water, dry an herb and eat it, and several other ways.
In my alternative medicine world, medicinal plants from the Amazon are absolutely and unquestionably, the most beautiful thing I have studied. The herbs have not
been tampered with genetically, which makes them pure in the sense that they are
just as they were in the beginning of the world when God made them in Paradise.
The more pure things you can put into your body, the quicker you can heal from your
ailments. I’ve seen this over and over again throughout the years.
Your Diet’s Origin: The Amazon Rainforest
Over 80% of our diet originated in the rainforest. Which of these rainforest foods
do you have in your diet right now?
Chocolate, cloves, cinnamon, sugar cane, yams, turmeric, coconut, Brazil nuts,
lemons, oranges, , bananas, guavas, grapefruit, avocados, mangos, pineapples, figs,
cayenne, corn, potatoes, coffee, vanilla, cashews and many more.
These foods came from the Amazon rainforest, and you may not have known it!
What would your diet be without these foods?
Healing Miracles Possible with Amazon Herbs
Over the years, I’ve used and seen Amazon herbs relieve and/eliminate:
• Long-standing ulcers in few weeks.
• Ulcerative colitis in a few months.
•
Severe acne in a teenager in less than 3 weeks, who then gained social
confidence.
• Symptoms associated with cancer, especially after medical treatment.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
121
Women’s hot flashes.
Blood sugar rises of Type 2 diabetes.
Nerve root pain in teeth.
Old injuries that wouldn’t heal.
Lack of endurance during exercise and rapid recovery after exercise.
Hair loss, especially after chemotherapy.
Bad vision and a host of other things that go wrong in the body.
I’m reporting on this, not promising you a cure. There’s a lot that has to be considered in any case to get someone well. It’s awfully difficult to be your own herbalist
without any training. It’s not just a matter of reading about the herbs; you have to
understand anatomy and physiology, plant chemistry, and principles of herbology, as
well as the each medicinal plant you are using.
In addition, certainly there can be no guarantee that Amazon herbal remedies
are what you need to heal. However, I believe they are exactly what you are looking
for.
How the Amazonians Use Herbs
The Amazon shamans use Pedra Hume Caa for Type 2 Diabetics. This herb is
called vegetable insulin by the indigenous people. When someone is stressed out,
there are many herbal remedies they choose from: Mulungu, Maracuja, Muira Puama, Kava, and Catuaba. These herbs relax you, and, by doing this, your stress level
decreases. You don’t feel as edgy anymore. Each type of illness has a list of herbs in
herbal remedies that can be used to overcome it. The choice of the herb depends on
everything else that is happening in the person’s health. Each plant can multi-task to
get you well and affects multiple parts of your body simultaneously.
Shamans Have Areas of Specialty, Too
There are different types of shamans in the Amazon; ones that deal with physical
ailments, and ones that treat emotional ailments. Of course, ones can be considered priests, too. For example, one shaman prescribes the bark of cat’s claw (Uncaria
tomentosa) to boost the immune system (physical ailment) while another shaman
prescribes cat’s claw for depression by telling the person to sleep with the herb underneath their pillow. A last one prescribes the herb Bobinsana to connect better
with God.
Amazon Rainforest Herbs are More Powerful than European Versions
The Amazon has its own ginseng, and its own milk thistle. Suma (Pfaffia paniculata) is Brazilian Ginseng, and, in Peru, Maca is called Peruvian Ginseng. These
122
ginseng-like herbs energize and eliminate fatigue. Milk thistle is the herb of choice
for Europeans and Americans to support the liver, but, in the Amazon, herbs such
as Carqueja, Quebra pedra, Jurubeba and Artichoke are used. The rainforest has its
own mint. Would you rather use mint that’s been cultivated for thousands of years
or mint that grows wild and has been largely untouched by the hand of man? I’d go
for the second one in a heartbeat and never reconsider my decision. The diversity of
medicinal constituents within each and every Amazon medicinal plant is the secret
to its success for your health.
Graviola is an herb from the Amazon that can be considered a type of “herbal
chemotherapy”. The Graviola plant may be found in other countries, but in the Amazon rainforest version, there are at least six additional medicinal constituents in it
that are helpful in cancer.
How the Amazon Indigenous Tribes Use Medicinal Herbs
Herbs from the Amazon have been important in keeping the indigenous tribes
healthy and active for centuries. You won’t see the indigenous people wearing glasses; they can spot the slightest movement in the jungle well into old age. They’ve
learned what leaf and sap to use on a gaping blood-spurting wound from a machete
used as they cleared brush in the forest. That herb is so effective that the wound
closes without sutures.
Amazonian women from the indigenous tribes teach their daughters which
plants to use to prevent conception for up to three or four years. They know which
herbal remedies to use to turn on fertility. The men know what to take to make them
sexually potent well into their 90s and use their own herbal Viagra if they need it. I
ran a clinical trial on impotency back in the 1990s, and I was thrilled with the results,
as were the men’s wives.
I also worked with a fitness professional that did a study on how the Amazon
herbs helped athletes with energy and endurance levels. One of my clients that take
his customized Amazon herbal supplements I made for him even won the national
jujitsu championship after only five months training. He attributes his success to the
Amazon herbal remedies. He also notices that his hair is growing back in its original
color. Of course, you can’t be a champion without paying attention to your diet as
well.
Another athlete was getting ready for an MTV show series and wanted an athletic formula customized for his needs. Amazon herbs were the foundation of this
formula, and, within three days, he had remarkably more energy. By the end of the
first week, he was able to do a complete running workout in the morning and weight
training in the afternoon, five days a week. Amazon herbs worked well with him, too!
He said it was every elite athlete’s dream to be able to have two workouts a day.
123
There’s no tribal dentist in the indigenous tribes; only a shaman that knows
when to utilize herbs that will numb the pain and when to use other herbs that will
dissolve a tooth that is abscessed. That same shaman can tell a stranger what to use
for a knee joint that has been troubled with arthritis as well.
Our Invitation to You
For these reasons, we urge you to spend time speaking to the shamans when
you are in the Amazon Rainforest on your trip. You must make time to visit the Market in Manaus, Leticia, or Iquitos or any other large city in the Amazon. Bring a list of
your ailments. Go with an open mind, remembering that you won’t be talking to just
an old man selling herbs; you’ll be speaking with a human encyclopedia that has the
answer to your illnesses.
I’ll meet you on one of Mynor’s Amazon trips! Start making your travel plans
now!
124
Thank You!
So my friend and colleague, we finally have reached the end of the road. I leave
you with my best wishes for your next trip to the Amazon. I hope that this one was
a complete success and wish it transformed your life the way it has impacted mine.
Thank you for helping the people of the Amazon and taking care of the natural resources, but my sincere thanks is for being such a great travel companion on this ship
we call Planet Earth.
For more information about this book and about the author, please visit www.
To obtain more information about this book or his author, please visit:
www.AmazonRiverExpert.com
125
RESOURCES FOR AMAZON TRIP
AIRPORTS
Manaus
http://www.azworldairports.com/airports/a1210mao.cfm
Belem
http://www.aeropuertosdelmundo.com.ar/americadelsur/brasil/aeropuertos/belen.php
Iquitos
http://www.aeropuertosdelmundo.com.ar/americadelsur/peru/aeropuertos/iquitos.php
Leticia
http://www.aeropuertosdelmundo.com.ar/americadelsur/colombia/aeropuertos/leticia.php
Santarem
http://www.aeropuertosdelmundo.com.ar/americadelsur/brasil/aeropuertos/santarem.php
Airlines
Aero Republica Airlines
http://www.aerorepublica.com/
AEROPOSTAL
http://www.aeropostal.com/
AVENSA
http://www.avensa.com.ve
AVIOR
http://www.avior.com.ve
COPA Air
www.copaair.com
Lan Perú
http://www.lan.com/index-es-pe.html
LASER
http://www.aerolaser.com/
Lineas Aereas StarPeru
http://www.munimaynas.gob.pe/Turismo/IquitosMonumental.htm
Lloyd Aero Boliviano
WWW.labairlines.com.bo
Rico Airlines
http://www.voerico.com.br/empresa/site/default_pers.asp
RUTACA
http://www.rutaca.com
Satena Airlines
http://www.satena.com/
Taca Air
http://www.taca.com
TAM Airlines
http://www.tam.com.br/
126
Tames Airlines
https://www4.tame.com.ec/eticketen/index.aspx
Trip Airlines
http://www.voetrip.com.br/
VARIG Airlines
http://portal.varig.com.br/ar/varig/index_html
VOEGOL Airlines
http://www.voegol.com.br/col/Paginas/Home.aspx
Buses
Cruz del Sur en Peru
http://www.cruzdelsur.com.pe/inicio_2.php
Ecuador Buses
http://www.getquitoecuador.com/quitotransport/quito_ecuador_bus_service.html
Eucatur
http://www.eucatur.com.br/historia.php
Expreso Los Llanos
http://www.expresoslosllanos.com/
Expreso Occidente
Prado de María, Caracas, Venezuela Teléfono: +58 212 632 2670/3132
Trans Esmeraldas
Terrestre Cumandá office # 53-54.Terminal Quito, Ecuador +593 2 2572 996
Boats
Boats to Iquitos
Transportes Eduardo Yurimaguas o Iquitos, Peru tel. +516 535 2991
Holland American
http://es.hollandamerica.com/enes/main/Main.action
Transporte Golphino
http://www.transportegolfinho.com/index-eng.html
Transtur
http://transturperu.vilabol.uol.com.br/transporte2.htm
Interesting Places
Store Casa Brasil Uirapuru
Calle8, #10-35, Leticia. Teléfono: +579 8592 7056 Preguntar por Carlos
Floating House
http://www.amazonascolombia.com/indexama.php?pg=opt5&viewfoto=opt5|hot|4
Pucallpa City
http://www.pucallpa.com/
Yurimaguas City
http://www.enyurimaguas.com/
Monkey Island
http://www.amazonas.gov.co/index.cfm?doc=displaypage&sid=62&cid=26&pid=25
Leticia Serpertarium
http://www.nativa.org/webingles/amazoonas_project.html
Amacayacu Natinal Park
http://www.amazonas.gov.co/index.cfm?doc=displaypage&sid=62&cid=26&pid=26
Reserve Pacaya-Samiria
http://www.pacaya-samiria.com/frame_spa.htm
Reserve Palmari
http://www.palmari.org/vcd/en/inicio/index.htm
Aditional Resources
Peruvian Amazon
http://www.regionloreto.gob.pe/
City of Leticia, Colombia
http://www.leticia-Amazonas.gov.co/index.shtml
City of Tabatinga, Brazil
http://www.portaltabatinga.com.br/
Iquitos City
http://www.munimaynas.gob.pe/Turismo/IquitosMonumental.htm
Dra. Donna Schwontkowski
www.DrDonnaHerbalTraining.com
Ecoturismo Estratégico
http://www.ecoturismoestrategico.com/
Ecoviages en Santarem
http://ecoviagem.uol.com.br/brasil/para/santarem/agencia-turismo/agencia-jm/
Colombian Amazon
http://www.amazonas.gov.co/index.cfm
Exchange rate
http://www.xe.com/
Go2Peru
http://www.go2peru.com/lan_peru2.htm
Amazon Herbs
www.AmazonHerbalRemedies.com
Iniciativa Amazónica
http://www.iamazonica.org.br/home/index.php?id=conteudoESP.php
Mynor Schult
www.AmazonRiverExpert.com
Sustainable Travel
https://sustainabletravelinternational.org/documents/op_carboncalcs.html
Swimming the Amazon
http://www.amazonswim.com/main.php
Walking the Amazon
http://es.walkingtheamazon.com/
127
128
VIDEOS THAT YOU MUST WATCH
Matamala Turtle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5T2gU87t4KU
Anaconda
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cRoeOp8h_I
Piranhas Fishing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsKhfvHDnS8
The Amazon River
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0q_zr2FESVU
Amazonas, Colombia
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyBv6sT0NEw
Iquitos, Peru
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwJufrQPQGE&feature=related
Ed Walking the Amazon
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNlHe8KXsKs
Strel Swimming the Amazon
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ce432_JmdB8
129
Immigration Information About the Tri-Border
Upon reaching the tri-border region, you will need an entry visa in Colombia
Brazil or Peru. This visa is good for travel in the border region of Colombia (Leticia to
Puerto Nariño), Brazil (Tabatinga and Benjamin Constant), and Peru (Santa Rosa and
Marasha) without any immigration matter. Leaving the border region for another country, you must obtain an exit stamp
from the immigration office of the country that you are leaving and the same day
(or the next day), you will need an entry stamp from the immigration office in the
country where you will continue your travel. If you don’t, you risk fines and/or deportation.
The Immigration Bureau of Colombia DAS (Administrative Security Department)
is located at the airport LETICIA, and they close at 6 pm. You can go to the airport to
rent a bicycle or take a motorcycle taxi driver.
The Peruvian Immigration Service is in Santa Rosa and the office is normally
open during the times of departure and arrival of ships. It is recommended to the
immigration of Peru on the day of arrival, and immigration in Colombia or Brazil, the
same day. (Or you can just go to the embassy the next day.)
The Federal Police of Brazil is located on Avenida de la Amistad in Tabatinga,
near the Caixa Economica Federal. From the center of Leticia, you can take the white
VW combi (like the old Volkswagen vans) in Tabatinga and ask the driver to drop you
in the “Federal”. You can also take a motorcycle taxi from anywhere in the city.
Traveling in the Amazon is a dream of millions of people from around the world,
and the eco-book that you hold in your hands shows you how to accomplish this
historic journey and make the trip easier and more affordable than you could ever
imagine.
Right now, you can conveniently catch a flight from anywhere in the world and
spend a couple of days in the Amazon rainforest. You could make a longer journey,
as I did, from the beginning of the river in Peru, through Colombia, to its end at
the beautiful beaches of Brazil’s Atlantic coast. Throughout this journey, you will
learn that the Amazon is full of brilliant and magical moments and together we
will discover:
• The secret, step by step, to enjoying the most beautiful river in the world according to your budget, time, and favorite activities
• How to save hundreds of dollars on airline & boat tickets to have a fantastic
holiday
• How to maximize your time on the river or the jungle. Do more with less
• Exotic safe tours off the beaten track to beautiful little-visited remote communities.
• Places to go surfing, golfing, play tennis, or go fishing
• How you can help conserve the environment and why you should support indigenous communities
• At least 80% of the proceeds of this book are donated to institutions in the Amazon
Whether your style of traveling is relaxed or full of activities and adventures, this ecoguide will help you explore the Amazon River the fun and easy way. This eco-book
from Mynor Schult will the only tour guide you will need on your incredible journey .
“Every little bit of rain forest that gets ripped out over there… really hurts us over
here.”
Harrison Ford, Star of Indiana Jones and Air Force One.
“Each of us must take a greater personal
responsibility for this deteriorating global
environment.”
Al Gore, Nobel Peace Prize winner and former
USA, Vice-President.

N - AMAZON RIVER EXPERT

Transcrição

Documentos relacionados

Executive Summary - PBMC

Brazil - Inchcape Shipping Services

Open Tenure Track Positions in Pure Mathematics at the Federal

Investment Grade Leverages Power Sector - Nuca

color and genomic ancestry of brazilians studied with

What You Really Need to Know about Importing into the United

2014 Edition - Festival de TV

Belo Monte Dam Issue Brief

SANCHEZ ROMÁN-Empire and Territory in the Amazon Valley

the Sustainable Amazon Network A social and ecological