guazzelli - Editora Casa 21

cidades ilustradas
GUAZZELLI
Florianópolis
Casa 21
A ponte Hercílio Luz continua sendo mais do que um cartão postal – porque, como acontece
há muito tempo, liga Florianópolis ao coração dos brasileiros.
Quem nunca ouviu falar bem da cidade em si, dos sítios históricos, das praias, da pesca, da
gentileza e civilidade de seu povo, enfim, quem nunca pensou com simpatia em Florianópolis?
Mesmo quem sequer a conhece, gosta do que falam da ilha.
Com tanta beleza para mostrar, Florianópolis aparece aqui como merece, com arte e estilo,
pelas mãos e visão do premiado mestre Guazzelli, Eloar Guazzelli Filho, especialista em quadrinhos e desenho de animação, que fez das páginas que se seguem uma verdadeira coletânea de cores e luzes aquareladas.
Com isso, Florianópolis passa a integrar com inteira justiça a galeria das “Cidades Ilustradas”,
coleção de livros de arte editada com o apoio da Esso Brasileira de Petróleo.
A Esso está certa de que as belas peças de Guazzeli, produzidas especialmente para este
livro, vão encantar todos os brasileiros, assim como a própria ´Floripa´ nos encanta.
ESSO BRASILEIRA DE PETRÓLEO
Para Lucila
cidades ilustradas
GUAZZELLI
Florianópolis
Patrocínio Apoio
Copyright © Eloar Guazzelli
TEXTO Guazzelli
VERSÃO INGLÊS Renato Rezende
REVISÃO Pina Bastos
PRODUÇÃO GRÁFICA Radiográfico
CIP-BRASIL. CATALOGAÇÃO-NA-FONTE
SINDICATO NACIONAL DOS EDITORES DE LIVROS, RJ
G954f
Guazzelli Filho, Eloar, 1962Florianópolis / Guazzelli ; [organizador da série Roberto Ribeiro]. - Rio de Janeiro : Casa 21, 2007.
il. ; . -(Cidades ilustradas ; n.8)
Texto em português e inglês
Textos em quadrinhos
ISBN 978-85-88627-13-0
A Ilha de Santa Catarina já foi dos Patos, de los perdidos, foi habitada por itararés e
guaranis e foi povoada por bandeirantes paulistas a partir de 1673. Mas quem lhe
deu um rosto e formou uma identidade própria foram os açorianos (75% da população no século XVIII), chegados a partir de 1748 e os africanos (20%). Outras tantas
etnias foram se estabelecendo, como os alemães em 1828, que contribuíram para
a formação de um rico mosaico étnico e cultural.
Ao longo destes séculos muitos viajantes se encantaram com esta ilha. Muitos continuam a se encantar com suas belezas naturais, sua cultura e sua gente. O maior
pesquisador da cultura de Florianópolis foi Franklin Joaquim Cascaes (1908-1983),
que conseguiu traduzir para o bico de pena, para a escultura e para o conto boa
parte deste universo fantástico trazido dos Açores e da África e que aqui se aclimatou perfeitamente. Nesta ilha, o nascer e o pôr do sol são sempre espetáculos
únicos, que Eloar Guazzelli conseguiu pintar e descrever com maestria de quem se
apaixonou por este “pedacinho de terra perdido no mar”.
1. Florianópolis (SC) - Obras ilustradas. 2. Florianópolis (SC) - Descrições e viagens.
3. Florianópolis (SC) - Histórias em quadrinhos. I. Título. II. Série.
07-4613.
CDD: 918.8164
CDU: 913(816.4)
07.12.07 07.12.07
Sérgio Luiz Ferreira
004614
Todos os direitos desta edição reservados à:
Casa 21 Ltda
Rua do Catete, 92 – casa 21
22220-000 – Rio de Janeiro – RJ
www.editoracasa21.com.br
RIBEIRÃO DA ILHA
PRAIA DA ARMAçÃO
BARCOS DE PESCA- SUL DA ILHA
PÂNTANO DO SUL
PONTE HERCÍLIO LUZ
FIGUEIRA CENTENÁRIA- Praça xv de novembro
feira e prédio da alfândega
CAAGUAÇU
Palavra tupi para ‘grande floresta‘
mercado público de florianópolis
fortaleza de santo antônio de ratones
Barco de transporte- canto da lagoa
CIDADES ILUSTRADAS – FLORIANÓPOLIS
SOUTH OF THE ISLAND
To produce a book about Florianópolis is both a honor and a great responsibility, for it’s ever
present the challenge of making drawings able to match the great beauty and graciousness of that
“island-city”. But the challenge is worthwhile, specially after I had realized that the island of Santa
Catarina also represents something quite important: in a certain way this privileged geographical
site represents in a smaller scale the great dilemma posed to our beautiful planet: to what extent
the expansion of our way of living is tolerable?
What are the limits for the growth of our economic activities and how much can the environment handle a growing occupation?
It’s funny, but looking at the natural and human landscape of this place I can’t avoid thinking of the story of the chicken of the golden eggs. On one hand, reading local authors like Virgilio
Varzea made me realize that often we idealize the past and do not notice that the people of the
island suffered many lacks, specially those who depended on the good luck in fishing for their
survival. I also learned that many forest reserves were in the past properties used for pasture that
were restored through legislation. Or even whale hunting, replaced by other kind of activities. So
I’m able to see that things are in a midway.
There were advancements, people now have more job options and life became better in many
places. But the ugly hole of the stone quarries, the sewage and the automobilist voracity along
with the uncontrolled expansion of buildings that do not honor at all the marvelous Azorean frighten me in relation to the future of this very special place.
Exactly how I feel about the planet Earth.
PONTA DE NAUFRAGADOS (WRECKED POINT)
The season in the island produced in me strange effects: a series of bizarre dreams with the
advantage of having the marvelous landscape of that place as scenario. I started with a weird
aerial mullet fishing at Farol de Naufragados (Wrecked Lighthouse). Actually, it was a pleasure to
watch the brave fishermen with their surreal fishing-net in that place where the island ends and
forms a narrow canal, so often quite dangerous, appropriately called wrecked beach. A place both
beautiful and hard to find. People arrive there by trail – which is a legend seemly devised by some
landscaper – or by boat, the weather allowing. I sailed there under a lot of wind, it was exciting,
and it felt like a pirate or wreckage movie…
OUR LADY OF LAPA CHURCH - RIBEIRÃO DA ILHA
My idea is not to write much, after all my profession is to draw. Nevertheless, sometimes there
is a need to explain something, specially the chosen itinerary. I see this island as a separate universe, a micro territory, almost a nation. Well, islands are indeed something like that. Even more
when the geography offers such variety: about 31 miles from north to south of a fantastic nature,
with lagoons, mountains, coastline and also a very rich cultural landscape.
For this reason I’ve decided to make maps that would allow us to follow our traveling itinerary.
But before anything also, I’ll explain the use of the plural. “Our itinerary” because this book was
drawn in a 10-day trip, in a rented car, driven by me with the logistical support of one of Casa 21’s
editors. A trip in the middle of the winter, which often explains the landscape strangely empty of
people in this land so much visited by tourists from everywhere. But I sincerely preferred this way.
This book is not a tourist guide, but the perspective of an artist. And I thought more interesting to
show the backstage of the place, the place’s deepest soul, and the landscape enjoyed by their legitimate owners. Truly speaking, it was a pleasure to escape from the stereotypes of high season,
often drawing magnificent views deep in solitude, feeling the cold wind in my face and hands.
ABSINTH AND STARS
The night spent at Ribeirão (little stream) has its great surprises, besides the seafood festival,
a walk to the Frenchman restaurant may grant the happiness of drinking quite well and having as
ceiling an unusual starry sky. An ideal scenario for a night walk. That’s because the wonder of this
place resides in the possibility of walking, or, better saying, since we’re mentioning France, to be a
flanêur. O stream invites us for a walk on time, trying to reconstitute the steps of the first Azorians
of the place or even to see the departure of those who traveled further south, helping to populate
the immensity of Rio Grande.
ARANTE
The south of the island has many attractions. And features some of the most traditional points
of the place’s good life. Arante’s bar is one of them. Located in the beautiful fishing harbor or Pântano do Sul (Southern Swamp), this bar changes every year.
Going through old pads I found this register of a 1982 visit. A lucky strike, since it has almost
the exact same angle of the drawing I made for the book, and portray quite well the evolution of
this fantastic bar that keeps hundreds, thousands of messages written by visitors from all over
the world, including me.
Impressive.
CENTER OF THE ISLAND
In order to conceive a panorama of the island I had to divide the way in phases and with the
painful awareness of having passed by many beauties. But I repeat, this is not a tourist guide, it’s
the work of an author, and therefore it brings a subjective and sentimental view. I had to cut out
gorgeous places because I could produce only 40 drawings maximum, knowing, of course, that
the island holds ten or twenty times more drawings. But time was short, very short. Besides the
landscape, obviously, the beauty of Azorian culture called my attention. Other places in this country also have natural beauties, but this gracefulness brought by that island people seems unique to
me: chapels, houses, mills, fishing boats. And I attempted to translate it. In an itinerary that started
at the south of the island, on Ribeirão’s coastline, passing through the extreme of Ponta de Naufragados and also the open coast of Armação and Pântano do Sul. And I always with the anguish
of choosing drawings that wouldn’t fit in the book.
CENTRO - PALÁCIO CRUZ E SOUZA
(DOWNTOWN – CRUZ E SOUZA PALACE)
Downtown Florianópolis is small, but lovely. It reminds a miniature of Lisbon. I’m getting old
and the proof is that I’ve been in this very place when the ocean leaped on the back of the Municipal Market. Today, as is common in Portuguese cities, a landfill covers a good section of downtown,
including the back of the market. In it there are avenues, an access to the bridge, public buildings,
a samba arena, a convention center and one of the most sophisticate bus stations of the country,
the Rita Maria. Also in downtown is Florianópolis’ cathedral, built between 1753 and 1773. But I
decided to draw the Cruz e Souza Palace, former government headquarters and actual Historical
Museum of Santa Catarina, a beautiful palace built in the 18th Century that counts with a garden
occupying almost a whole block. Then walk around downtown’s streets, on the ‘’calçadões’’ (large
sidewalks) listening the people talking and admiring as well the beauty of the mixture of many
races that made this city one of the places with the largest number of beautiful women I’ve seen
in my life.
IGREJA NOSSA SENHORA DO ROSÁRIO E SÃO BENEDITO (OUR LADY OF ROSARY AND SAINT BENEDICT CHURCH)
Downtown Florianópolis is a place of many surprises. Almost always delicious ones; like finding a beautiful colonial church at the top of a stairway. I found out later that the painter Vitor
Meirelles painted a beautiful landscaped of 19th Century Florianópolis from the top of this very
same stairway. One of worthwhile things to do while in downtown is to visit the museum dedicated
to this painter, a visit also valuable for its building, a small colonial house typical of this city. And
the painter deserves it. He has made 19th Century landscapes of the island that make us wish to
return in time.
THE PUBLIC MARKET AND
A DREAM WITH WHALES UNDER THE BRIDGE
One again I had strange dreams; it looks like the island inspires me. This time I dreamt that
the beautiful Hercílio Luz Bridge swayed during the night due to the love making of two whales
that was taking place under its pillars. Even in the dream the old bridge built in 1926 honored its
qualities and resisted to the giant flirtation. Next day I came very close to it and could once again
certify myself that it is a great symbol of this beautiful city.
That’s because, even being a wonderful place, Florianópolis still can be compared to other
places. But its bridge is unique, a design of great elegance – and I was happy to see it is under a
restoration process. Talking about elegance, another chapter, and quite close to the bridge, is the
Public Market.
ANHATOMIRIM, SÃO JOSÉ DA PONTA GROSSA
AND RATONES FORTRESSES
Besides reaffirming the symmetry of the island of Santa Catarina, showing that this place
was blessed by nature in a balanced way, its northern part isn’t happy only in presenting beautiful beaches bathed by warm waters that delight tourists, offering also a series of fortress, which
beauty is very well preserved. I drew three of these edifications. The fortress of Santa Cruz de Anhatomirim, built between 1739 and 1744, on the northern bay. The fortress of São José da Ponta
Grossa, built in 1740, located between the Jurerê and Fortress beaches. And finally, the Santo Antonio de Ratones fortress, also built in 1740, in the island of Ratones Grande, on the northern bay,
near Daniela beach. This architectonic collection translates quite well the ability the island has of
transporting us in time, conducing us to imagine the many adventures of the colonial times, provoking my passion for comics and making me dream of stories with pirates and adventurers.
SÃO JOSÉ DA PONTA GROSSA FORTRESS
This beautiful fortress formed, along with the fortresses of Anhatomirim and Santo Antônio de
Ratones, the protecting triangle of the Northern coast against foreign attacks to the colony’s territory. Its construction dates from the 18th Century and the view from it is really one of those things
that make of Florianópolis such an amazing place. And it also has a little stone chapel that captivates the visitor by its simplicity. After, to rest from so much beauty and emotion in the good bars
on the sand of the beaches of the Forte beach. What a great thing!
CAPELA DO FORTE DE SÃO JOSÉ
(CHAPEL OF THE SAINT JOSEPH FORTRESS)
This fortress came up suddenly, when I visited the São José da Ponta Grossa Fortress, a very
old fort located in a beautiful site in the northern part of the island, turned to the continent. A large
and very beautiful set of several fortified buildings, with cannon batteries and high walls. But the
most impressive was to find this refuge totally protected from the strong afternoon sun – almost
a cave. A scenario of beauty and peace.
And also these images that reminded me of medieval statuary, in its extremely simple fashion,
and, exactly because of that, able to strongly convey the faith of those who created them. An almost secrete refuge, but filled with great emotional charge. A worthwhile walk!
SANTO ANTONIO DE LISBOA E SAMBAQUI
In the northern region of the island there are some enchanting places where it is possible to
find traces of Azorian immigration. Santo Antonio de Lisboa is one of them. This village is located
about 12 miles from the city’s downtown, facing the continent. And there, next to the housings,
one of the most beautiful churches of the island: Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of
Needs), built between 1750 and 1756. It was funny drawing it feeling rather cold, facts of life out
of the high season. But I like the backstage and was worthwhile to walk through the old streets
of the village of Santo Antonio de Lisboa, with the privilege of walking on the first paved street of
the former province of Santa Catarina, and after taking a small road towards Sambaqui, doing one
of the finest things of life, which is walking glancing at small boats and colonial houses, listening
to the conversation of local people and, at the end, when already feeling tired, to seat in one of
the many good restaurants of the region and relish a good meal. Plus admiring the island’s great
artisanal work.
THE OLDEST SIDEWALK OF SANTA CATARINA
In Santo Antonio de Lisboa there is this beautiful street which was paved during the reign of
Don Pedro II. It is said it was the first paved street of the then Imperial province. And beside the
beach there was this large old house, the leftover of an old inn of the time of the pirates, and today
a cool bar. This is a beautiful village and in it starts the path towards Sambaqui, located a bit further north, facing the continent. A few miles in the opposite direction, towards south, it is possible
to visit a flourmill, preserved in all details, the great house and the mill of the Andrade family.
THE WAY TO SAMBAQUI
The path that connects Santo Antonio de Lisboa to the place known by Sambaqui is a long
road alongside the coast between the northern part of the island and the continent. The best way
to enjoy its beauty is by walking. At each curve – and they are many – there is a surprise, like
these stones in contrast against the colorful vegetation of this island. It somehow reminded me of
a Japanese print. Maybe the secret and the fascination of this island rest in such variety of landscapes. And a plus we gain a set of colonial housings just in front of a transparent sea.
MY LOUSTAL SCENERY
The beginning of my career was marked by a profound admiration for a French comics author,
Loustal, whose stories I copied at that moment when such attitude is not only normal but also
healthful for the formation of a style. The fact is that I adored, and still liking, his narrative in open
and desolated spaces. Specially the half-abandoned bars way from the busyness of the high summer season. And so I could not resist paying him homage with this beautiful model in a cold late
afternoon on Santinho’s coast. This island has scenarios for everything.
LAGOA DA CONCEIÇÃO
(CONCEIÇÃO LAGOON) AND SURROUNDINGS
About in the center and turned towards the east there is Conceição lagoon, one of the most
interesting places of the island. For the very reasons of always, a great natural beauty associated
to some architectural moments of rare splendor. Like this lovely little street half-hidden and near
the busyness of the local downtown. These little houses in eclectic style are at the basis of the hill
where the reigns the church of Our Lady of Conception of the Lagoon (Senhora da Conceição da
Lagoa), consecrated to the Holy Spirit. Besides being very old – its construction began in 1751 –
the church is also very beautiful. And we have as well, by turning to the north margin of the lagoon,
a very charming place, the little settlement known by “canto da lagoa” (the lagoon’s corner), a set
of housings half-hidden by the forest that follow the lagoon’s margin. Ah, my traveling companion
called my attention to the large number of stray dogs, seemingly abandoned, that wander through
the island. It seems they are left out, after the high season. Their life is good, very good. But this
is something that shouldn’t be done!
CANTO DA LAGOA (LAGOON’S CORNER)
At the furthest point of Conceição lagoon, on its margin that is turned inward, there is a chain
of small settlements that can only be reached by trail or boat. There rests the place’s charm; a
series of houses and also some bars and restaurants are preserved free from the plague of the automobile. Always with a small dock for boats, including a regular public transportation line, which
is quite cool because we traveled with locals occupied with daily lives concerns. Truly speaking,
I’m not even sure if I should be talking about this enchanting place. In noisy times like ours, it is
probably better off leaving it as quiet as it is.
DREAMS
As a way of concluding this book I would like to include some drawings based on the dreams
I had during my season in the island. Dreams where its nature and culture appear with great
strength, whether in the vision of strange flying shoals of fish (better not even try an interpretation) or in the image of the boats that left Freguesia do Ribeirão carrying groups of Azorian immigrants to people the extreme south of the country. Only that in my dreams these boats were
able to fly. And, to close, a fantasy inspired by a frightening witch narrative, taken from the work
of Franklin Cascaes.
FRANKLIN CASCAES
This image come from a short story called “the witches steal the whaling boat of an island
fisherman”, a pearl written by Franklin Cascaes, a great researcher who dedicated thirty years
of his life studying and recovering cultural manifestations that take place in the island of Santa
Catarina.
AGRADECIMENTOS
Lizabel Barcellos Guazzelli, Flora Pougy Guazzelli, Alexandre Pinho,
Carol, Valentina, Manuela, Denir Acácio e família, Maria José e Flavio,
Samuel Casal, Paulo Roberto Miranda, Guilherme Xavier.
Este livro foi impresso em dezembro de 2007
na Ipsis Gráfica e Editora