Journal
Transcrição
Journal
Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island Section Summer Camp 2010 Alava-Bate Sanctuary The Journal of the ACCVI Vancouver Island Summer Camp 2010 July 17 – August 7 6817E 0681681 E 55308N 5531045 N North of Mt. Bate Map: Gold River 92 E/16 Grid Ref 816308 (0681689/5530851) 49’ 54.253 126’ 28.185 Week 1: July 17 – 24 Attendees Geoff Bennett Morgan Blakley Catrin Brown Rick Johnson Phee Hudson Rick Hudson Fiona Lemon David Lemon Graham Maddocks Russ Moir Kelly Osbourne Roger Painter Peggy Taylor Roger Taylor Krista Zala Saturday July 17 To everyone’s amazement, all of the team for Week 1 arrived at the appointed chopper pad in Conuma River, on time, although Graham Maddocks was an hour early, and had begun to fret that he might be in the wrong place! And Catrin’s van had a leaking brake cylinder. But thus we gathered, 13 good souls (Sylvia having stepped down at the last minute). Indeed, the Hon. Chair was also present, as much as to see off his precious daughter Krista, but also no doubt to cast a beady eye on the arrangements, given that he would inherit the entire mess at the start of Week 2. 1 The E&B Helicopter Long Ranger arrived at 10:00, and a merry Ken – the pilot – gave the safety briefing, and then carried 2 loads of 4-5 passengers, then 2 sling loads, and finally the remainder of the group. The weather was perfect, calm, cloudless. Alas, the upper basin known as Shangri-La had 2 metres of snow in it, making for a more complex camp plan. Nevertheless, biffies were dug and the mighty Space Dome erected, everyone grateful for the clear clip labels, and the absence of wind. Then tables and stools were installed, the stoves connected to propane, and we were ready, while the biffy party, ably led by Geoff Bennett (like a duck to water) reported that all sewer systems were “go”. (The plan is to fly out all waste.) Private tents were then pitched under a blazing sun that will still not clear the basin of snow in the coming 3 weeks. Gear was unpacked. Food was shared and freshly buried garbage cans, all shiny, with snow providing some cooling. Various parties wandered off to explore the nearer areas. The sun dropped behind Thumb Peak at 6:50pm and we drained sundowners outside, and battled with 3-leg stools that suddenly sank into the unconsolidated snow. Dinner was an aromatic and swell affair, and I will let the chefs describe it below, while others discussed the many options for the morning. [Rick H] When Morgan dropped Krista a line introducing himself as her cooking partner and suggested a simple dinner of quinoa and peppers, Krista took it upon herself to share with him the camp’s unspoken contest for each night’s meal to outdo that of the previous, so while quinoa was a good start it could perhaps benefit from some more lavish touches. And a starter. And a good dessert. And so that’s just what they did. Krista cooked up a bruschetta with roasted red peppers, roasted almonds, mint, parsley and other tasty additions, and a spread of roasted and sundried tomatoes a splash of balsamic vinegar and plenty of ginger. Both were served with toast and or onion bread. Morgan made a phenomenal main course, supplementing the quinoa with peppers, nuts and a homemade peanut sauce. Krista finished the meal with 2 2-layer chocolate cakes with chocolate sauce and raspberry topping. We don’t think anyone will top it. Neener neener. (Nearly all these recipes were taken from the Rebar Cookbook.) [Krista] Sunday July 18 The sun touched camp at, curiously, 7:50 am. The weather is clear, with a light, warm westerly. Mt. Bate Mo Blakley, Russ Moir, Rick Hudson. Left camp at 8:00 and followed the East terrace to the low end(s) – about an hour, and then climbed up easy snow slopes to the summit tower (about another hour). Superb views from Warden and Victoria to Golden Hinde, even to Nine Peaks. 2 At the final tower we dropped into the moat on the NE corner, and our young tiger (Morgan Blakley) quickly climbed the chimney to a stance 25 metres up. Russ and Rick then followed, and the views NW to Rugged Mountain were soon apparent. Morgan then led a fine slab pitch – all of the rock is firm red basalt, but with little protection – and our leader, facing his first time at the short end on Island rock, did well. The final 10 metre slab to the very summit is delicate in snow boots. In due course, he was joined by the other two, who then retreated to the ledge 10 metres below, while he put a peg into the summit and rapped down. From there, it was uncertain whether a single full rap would reach the snow, but with 2 good slings around a block, we just made it, saving much time. [Rick H] Afterthought – a 60 metre rope is needed to rap to just above the moat – knot needed to avoid a drop – down climb last 5 metres! We didn’t find the old pin at the summit which we rapped off last time here – “somebody” rapped off two manky placed wire nuts which fell out when touched – must have been a desperate team. The new pin in crack below top is fine. [?] Thumb Peak Phee Hudson, Roger Painter, Peggy + Roger Taylor, Geoff Bennett Left camp at 0800, kicked steps straight up the couloir to the col at the lowest point of the ridge east of Thumb Peak. There is a huge snowfield on the north side of the col. From the col there are several options to climb Thumb Peak – snow ramp on the south side (OK); snowfield on the north side (a bit steep in places); or the rock rib in the middle – which is the route we chose. Looks steep, but firm third class / no rope needed. The ridge tops out at another col about halfway up, from which you can kick steps up an easy snowfield to the right of the summit. But we elected to go up the easy rock (more fun) and reached the summit cairn at 10:30 (2.5 hours from camp, 460 metres elevation gain). The rock route we would do again because of the lovely heather meadows. Fabulous views in all directions: NE (Waddington?), W (the ocean), S (Col Foster et al.). The view over to the Thumb is very impressive, with an exposed and level traverse ending at the base of the steep pinnacle of the thumb. No interest in our group to attempt the traverse! 3 Sketch of the region between the Thumb and Thumb Peak Sketch of the region of Thumb Col (Thumb Peak is to the left, Tlupana Ridge to right) Sketch of the start of Tlupana Ridge, to the right of Thumb Col 4 The summit register was totally soaked, despite being in a PVC container, and the pencil was destroyed. After lounging around in the sunshine under a beautiful blue sky, we glissaded down the snow slopes to the intermediate col, then down climbed the rock to the main col. From here we continued over easy mixed terrain over the first bump, then onto the second, and finally one more lesser, very red bump, before deciding to return. We took many breaks and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. The only required gear is an ice axe. Had to climb back up the two bumps but most of the return journey involved long snow glissades. Back at camp before 1600. It should be possible to traverse the entire ridge to the east, but it would be wise to check out the route through the bluffs at the east end (below the camp). A good view of these bluffs can be obtained from the lower part of the route up Mt. Bate. [Geoff] I was pleased to find flowers at the col and up the rocky slopes to Thumb Peak. Alaska saxifrage, western spring beauty, yellow mountain heather, white mountain heather, Sibbaldia, round-leaved violet, sub-alpine buttercup, pink mountain heather, bird’s beak lousewort, alpine azalea, sickletop lousewort, spreading phlox, smooth dovglasia, scarlet paintbrush, Davidson’s penstemon, western hedysarum, deer cabbage. [Phee] Chef Roger and chopping assistant Peggy started dinner prep @ 5:30pm. Butternut squash soup – tetra packs emptied into large pot – easy! Cabbage salad with grated carrots, apple, raisins – juicy and yummy, but lots of chopping. Main was pesto, angel hair, sundried tomatoes, garlic, pine nuts. Dessert was almond and chocolate biscotti w/ tea, coffee or hot chocolate – tasty! Hungry hordes seemed appreciative kudos to our friend Elaine Powers – a former ski and raft guide – for recipe. [?] Mt. Alava Party members Rick Johnson leading, Graham Maddocks, Catrin Brown, Krista Zala, Kelley Osbourne, Fiona Lemon, David Lemon. Set off at 0715, over the glass to Peter Lake. Descended from the pass to Peter Lake and contoured around the end of the lake, then up the snow slope to the large snow gully at the left hand end of the SE ridge. Snow gully is steep, but was reasonably swift. Gained the ridge at the SE end of the SE summit. Decided that traversing the SE summit on the E side was not possible, nor was it practical to go over the summit with such a large party. Rick descended on the best side to the top of a steep snow slope (a short distance) and then into the moat. David and Fiona Lemon went as well; the rest of the party remained in the ridge to enjoy the afternoon. Halfway along the route (about 100’) it became too undecent, and traversed the rest of the snow slope to a patch of bushes. Descended past the bushes, then scrambled down class 3 rock to the base of the summit snowfield. Then ascended the snow slope the left hand side of the summit block. The scramble to 5 the summit is loose, and a bit exposed. Rick, David, and Fiona gained the summit at 2:00pm (Fiona’s first big mountain). Down climbed the summit, since there were no anchors for rappelling or protection. Returned by the same route, rejoined the rest of the party at 4:00pm returned to camp at 6:30pm. [?] It was more than a bit exposed. [Graham] Monday July 19 Mt. Alava “Direct” Rick and Phee Hudson, Peggy Roger Taylor, Geoff Bennett We all learn from experience. After listening to yesterday’s stories we decided to look for a different approach route. Left camp at 09:00 (a bit late), crossed the col, then way down to the lake (where mew gulls were calling), around the east end, then traversed up into the main couloir between Alava and the SE summit. This couloir is too dangerous (cornice atop) so we crossed it low down and scrambled up an easy rock gully to access the upper snowfields. Here we had a choice – lead straight up a rather steep but direct snowfield, or traverse further to access the gentlest angle on the ridge. We did the latter, then back-tacked up angled rock ledges to get to the snow again. Then easy snow slopes all the way around the summit to a notch on the back side. Dropped axes and packs; donned helmets and harnesses. From the notch we traversed up ledges to the left. Loose rock on ledges. We belayed one pitch in the middle, with an awkward move and a nasty drop. Then loose but easy scrambling along the ridge to the summit. We were at the notch by 12:00 (3 hours from camp), but spent 2 hours on the summit. Retraced our steps home. Hardest part was the 250 metre trudge back up the col. Reached camp at 16:20, less than 2.5 hours from the summit notch. A great day! And by the way we saw a deer in the main couloir, and later on its prints in the snow going over the Alava col. Also a ptarmigan and four chicks on the upper snowfield. [Geoff] Tlupana Ridge – Above the Conuma River Russ Moir, Roger Painter, Catrin Brown, David Lemon, Fiona Lemon, Graham Maddocks, Kelly Osbourne, Krista Zala Approach route – Descended E bank of river below camp site and up series of snow ramps with two heather/rock ribs to avoid exposed steep snow sections – achieved ridge at low point rear SE end, dropped packs and booted/scrambled easy line along to southernmost rock knob of ridge – fabulous views into Strathcona and out to Tahsis Inlet – also across to Bate and Alava (where friends were on top). Worked along ridge over good snow and lovely, warm, solid, grabby rock ribs and eventually to col below Thumb Peak. Party split up, some to descend to 6 camp (they’d done Thumb day before) – 4 continued up rock buttress and up great soft snow to Thumb Peak. The boot-slide all the way down was exhilarating after a longish day – just soft enough to boot ski down from summit to camp in 35 minutes. Hallelujah!! An awesome day in the sun on a scenic ridge. [?] Mt. Grattan Rick Johnson and Morgan Blakley We left to climb Mt. Thumb and upon reaching the col, we saw Grattan and decided to climb it. We had a small rack (being small gear) and a few slings. We left a new rappel sling about 2/3 of the way up to the summit. The two old slings are not trustworthy. I left a sling and 2 new carabiners on a bush/tree about 1/3 of the way up. The climbing is easy and beautiful. Rock is mostly solid with some loose rock near the summit. In Island Alpine the route is rated III 5.6. It’s easier than that, probably III 5.4. Not many places to build anchors, rap stations will be creative. Morgan down climbed rest of it. We moved the summit register down to the big ledge below the tiny summit. It was soaked, but waterproof paper. We were the first to sign. Bringing two 60 metre ropes for rappelling will make life easier. I collected my sling and biners a few days later. [Morgan] Tuesday July 20 Mt. Alava “Super-Direct” Kelly Osbourne, Morgan Blakley, Krista Zala The party left camp around 9:30, a late start for sure but we quickly descended the Bate Thumb col toward Peter Lake. Following Monday’s tracks, we traversed around south of Peter Lake and up left of the Alava couloirs. We traversed up toward the right into the small rocky bluff. The Team notes that to climber's right of the short chimney is a less technical route onto the bench. Take direct snow gulley up and left, for a more direct line to the main summit snow slope. Had to cross a few snow bridges that were quickly fading away. [Kelly] Ascended summit snow slope quickly. Gained summit block at noon (at south side) at notch below / beside single spiky tower. Two of three of us put on rock shoes and we all traversed left on rock just above moat of north-west snowfield, about 30 feet. Climbed loose 3rd/4th class rock to gain summit. Enjoyed the lovely views, discussed prohibition, boy disrobed for shots for a calendar project. Descent: Set more or less a body belay and Morgan belayed Kelly then Krista as 7 each down climbed. (He was clothed at this point.) Morgan down climbed it without rope – in his boots! Descended down snow slope to Alava col, then stayed to descender’s left (toward Alava Lake, kinda) on easier slope than ascent. Followed small set of cairns over rock, which mostly followed a stream, then across shoulder, then back on to snowfield and on to the first rock grained on ascent. Down in slow clockwise sweep over solid rock, sometimes holding onto tree branches, until reached our footprints. Took path to Peter Lake and swam with icebergs. Very refreshing. Had a small siesta and hauled our way back to camp. Gorgeous weather, high wispy clouds. Crampons were really helpful. 60 metre 9mm rope perfect. But! A single 60 metre rope is not sufficient for single rappel. [Krista] Addend: Be careful crossing couloir in pm – we were above this on “easy” day and watched large block come off side of couloir sending big chunks down slope – we scootered across rapidly!! [Russ] From above on Alava, the main couloir looks very dangerous. There are large steep snow packs above climber's left and a cornice top and center. This should not be used as an approach to Alava's summit. [Morgan] The blocks covered our tracks, 30 minutes after we were there. [Catrin] Mt. Bate (2nd ascent this week) Peggy and Roger Taylor, Graham Maddocks, Roger Painter, Geoff Bennett Same route as earlier ascent – left camp at 09:20 (alpine start!?). Up through snowfields for 3 hours to base of summit block. No crampons needed. First pitch (30 metres) up an obvious chimney – easy fifth class, stemming moves, protection not really needed except for a sling around a horn at the top of the chimney to redirect the rope. Belay off two good slings around a boulder (the rap station). Final short pitch has about 3 metres of solid 5.6 (thin hand and foot holds – best done with rock shoes esp. for the leader because there is no protection.) Belay from a new piton with locking biner. With large groups it may be useful to have a second rope (30 metres is enough) to belay and lower climbers up the second pitch while other climbers are on the first pitch. Must have a 60 metre rope to rap the first pitch. Back in camp 1.5 hours after unroping. A great day in perfect weather on beautiful rock in fine company. [Geoff] Tlupana (Roger’s ridge) Pick and Phee Hudson (37th wedding anniversary) 8 Had a lovely day doing the ridge from are end to the other. Rick also added Thumb Peak as he had not been up there yet. Another perfect blue sky day in paradise. We cooked dinner after washing hair (Yay!) – trifle for dinner very popular. [Phee] Wednesday July 21 Morgan Blakley went for a stroll. Started at the Bate-Thumb col and scrambled up and across the ridge to the Thumb-Grattan col. Crossed over to Grattan, soloed up about 1/3 to retrieve sling and biners. Then scrambled up three mini peaks on the Grattan-Thumb ridge. Then scrambled around the side of the Thumb to scout a route up. Down climbed onto snow and crossed below Mt. Thumb. Climbed Mt. Thumb and hung out for a while. Descended via snow to camp. Unpacked and repacked for a bath. Went behind the biffies and down to the waterfall/pool. Hopped in 6 times and dried off in the sun. Lovely sunbathing. [Morgan] Roger’s Ridge II (S. West ridge extension of Thumb) Roger Painter, Phee Hudson and Catrin Brown strolled up to Peter col then down a short way the other side before traversing the snow (R) to the ridge. A couple of tricky rock moves brought us onto a beautiful heather ledge which took us to the ridge proper. Lots of flowers near the bottom of the ridge, then fascinating red rock formations all the way up. Great views of Mt. Alava and Peter Lake. Roger had a bath in a pool half way up. Then we sat at the top and waited for the boys from Grattan to join us. Highly commend this as a short day outing. [Phee] Mt. Grattan Rick Hudson, Russ Moir, Graham Maddocks, Geoff Bennett, Roger Taylor Departure at 8:30 am reached base of Grattan at 9:30am. Climb was six pitches of approx 30 metres. Rick Hudson was lead climber with Russ Moir, then Geoff Bennett followed by Roger Taylor. Graham Maddocks decided to stay at the base. Pitches were short as Geoff had a hard time getting up past 30 metres, due to rope drag. Rock was excellent and able to climb in hiking boots – no problem. I’d estimate 5.4 class. Easier than the top of Bate. Not too exposed. An excellent multi-pitch climb for a relatively new climber. Descent was 3x 60 metres rappels; 2 were easy. The last was a bit more difficult, due to “organic” belay station but still fun and safe. Back at base of Grattan at 3pm. Met up with Roger’s Ridge II group at top of ridge. Back at camp by 4pm. An excellent day out. [Roger T] Mt. Bate Rick Johnson, Kelly Osbourne, Krista Zala, Fiona Lemon, David Lemon 9 We set out at the miraculously early time of 8:15. The approach was straightforward, over a series of bumps to gullies, past the slowly melting lake with its gorgeous azure divots in the snow. We followed the long ramp up, choosing to hug the ridge all the way around, hopping on to the occasional rocky outcropping, rather than choosing a direct route up from the final basin as an earlier party evidently took. On the northern trek to the summit slope we dropped a few metres of elevation to enjoy a great lunch / snack break at a watering hole on some rocks with a pool and running stream. We traversed a steep snow slope and reached the summit block at about 11:15. Rick led the first pitch in boots with Kelly and Krista simul-climbing in rock shoes (which Kelly was very happy about) (and there was no way Krista would’ve done it without rock shoes). Upon reaching the belay station Krista discovered that one of the locking carabiners in the anchor hadn’t been closed, which made her less than ecstatic. Rick then ran up a second short section to the final belay station, with Kelly and Krista following. Rick tried to climb the last pitch in boots before giving up as it’s a scabby exposed face (beyond a single protection section on a small underhang on the left) and switching to rock shoes and running up to the pin. Krista followed, then Kelly. We left enough rope through the pin and at the top for future top ropes, then Kelly rapped down, followed by Krista. [Krista] Rick stayed at the 2nd belay station in order to provide belay to David and Fiona. David climbed the first pitch in boots, then waited at the belay station ledge with Rick as Fiona followed in rock shoes. Then Fiona climbed the summit pitch , followed by David, still in boots. [?] Everyone enjoyed the fine views from the summit if only momentarily, especially the lakes and Tahsis sound in the distance. Thanks to Rick for providing the lead for our large group. [?] Thursday July 22 Thumb Peak A strong party of the Lemon family, Krista Zala and Graham Maddocks set off at 11:00 after a thrilling start to the day when the cook tent blew away. We headed straight up the snow in furnace heat collecting bugs for Geoff. On the way we gained the ridge and contoured along, eventually gaining the summit of Thumb Peak in clear weather with superb views of Grattan and the au cheval Ridge of the Thumb – we saw old bear scat on the peak and collected some bugs and descended in frying pan heat. The summit register is paper mache. [Graham] 10 The Great Dome Drama 7:05am and great cries for aid are heard by those asleep or dressing in their tents! Graham, alone in the dome tent, where he has a stove on in preparation for his first cup of java, suddenly notices that the tent is lifting to windward (W side) as the wind that has been there and gone for the night suddenly strengthens. He lunges for the rising side – good thing he is 200 lb of muscle and not one of the light ladies – and hangs on for dear life for what seems an age, but was likely a minute or two. Still, under full sail, the dome can generate some impressive lift and then it would be all over. All over the lower valley, most likely! Reinforcements arrive. The tent has shifted downwind several feet, off its pedestal, and the stoves are still on, though the kitchen table has fallen over and landed where the gas bottles were. Excitement! Confusion! Many hands quickly muster to switch off the gas (no fire, luckily) and we use water buckets and later pickets together with 100’ of parachord to anchor our home. Half an hour later the wind has dropped, the tent is fixed to the ground like glue, and breakfast resumes in its normal, innocent fashion. Wind: 0 ACC: 1 Thanks Graham! [Rick H] The tent was sitting in the lit burners. [Graham] Friday July 23 Phee Hudson, Catrin Brown and Rick Johnson returned to the 3 rock towers at the lower end of the SE Ridge of Mt. Bate, where yesterday they, with Roger, had been without a rope. This time they were without Roger, but with rope, and a very pleasant lower 5th class series of pitches led them up red knobbly rocks. Broad heather terraces on the E face of the left hand (S) one. The summit was a perfect square of level heather. The day was cloudless, still and in all other respects perfect, and they ate lunch and savoured the view in every direction – the great peaks of Strathcona being particularly handsome with their late season snow cover. They then descended the W side of the S tower to reach the middle tower, where an exposed but easy ramp and wall on the S side brought them to summit #2 where a cairn was built. Then down a long easy ledge to summit #3 before following an easy grass ramp that cut down the red rock to a level section of the ridge. The level of difficulty was class 4 with some exposed very low class 5 sections – a perfect day out for the last day. From the ridge, there was easy access onto the snow to connect with the Mt. Bate up-track, and a speedy snow descent. 11 Sketch of the SE Ridge of Mt. Bate Tlupana Ridge Roger and Peggy Taylor Peggy was eager to get moving again after catching Geoff’s cold on Wednesday. Had a great rest day at camp – affixed an umbrella to a hiking pole for a shade and sat on the rocks reading! Thursday went bug hunting/collecting with Geoff – to get entomology samples for his brother. Feeling better on Friday – so raring to go! We started at about 9:10am and traversed above Conuma River behind camp, past the waterfalls. Stopped at a rock perch for snacks after heading up some easy snow slopes. Roger cut lovely steps for me! Going up a dog-leg snow gully to climber’s left in crampons was just a bit more pleasant. Instead of trending right at the top of the dog leg, on Catrin’s advice we turned left onto a heather/rocky ledge with our crampons – worked will for grip – and headed up a wee stream to gain the ridge. Then headed right along the ridge to a view point for a bite of lunch. Spectacular views to Bate and along spine of the island’s mountains saw Rick, Phee and Catrin on Bate extension peak. Back along the ridge – hiking between snow and rock north along the ridge. Easy hiking and scrambling. 12 Saw a mother ptarmigan with four chicks and took tons of photos and watched for about 10 minutes – very cute Reached the midway bump at 2 pm and had a nice lunch, and revelled again at the views. This was the spot where we reached on the first day with Geoff Bennett. Easy scrambling/hiking again on the ridge to col above camp/below Thumb Peak. We snow-plunged down the snow slope back to camp and arrived at about 3:45 pm. An excellent day out indeed! [Peggy] Mt. Grattan Redux Kelly Osbourne, Graham Maddocks, David Lemon, Geoff Bennett Left camp at 0800. Arrived at the base of Grattan an hour later. 4 people – so two independent rope teams with 60 metre ropes. Beautiful tactile rock climbing. Holds everywhere. A pleasure in rock shoes. 3-6 pitches to the summit. Graham and David entrapped in coils of 60 metre rope by Shelob, spider of Mordor, near the chimney where Geoff dropped a rock on his leg. David dropped a rock on Geoff’s toe. Otherwise a lovely summit on yet another hot and sunny day. We’ve been so lucky this week. 3 raps to get down. The 60 metre ropes were useful, but two 50’s would probably work too – but just barely on the second rap. Roger got stuck on the last rap – wouldn’t you know it – with the packs so close. Climbed all the way back up to free the knot. Don’t use the Double Fisherman on the rock. No complaints, the rock is superb – so any excuse to climb a bit more is OK. A great way to end the week. Second ascent for Geoff. [Geoff] “We are not that strength which in old days moved earth and heaven. That which we are, we are. One equal temper of heroic hearts, made weak by time and fate, But strong in will to strive, to seek, to find. And not to yield.” Ulysses by Tennyson I.e., old men can still climb mountains (!) [David] Saturday July 24 Musings from Catrin Brown Having heard and read so much about this area over many years, in the back of my head before the trip had been a quiet unspoken thought that I might be underwhelmed – that it could not live up to its expectations. I could not have been more wrong, or more impressed by everything that we have experienced here. Suffice to say this has been one of the best weeks ever in the mountains for me, heightened by the sense of how few have gone before. Grateful thanks to the early explorers, and especially to Rick and Cedric for 13 making it happen. May the next 2 weeks be as happy for you all. Best line of the week: During our morning flying tent activity, while all busy shovelling snow to anchor the perimeter, Graham suggested we could use the full biffy bags to help as anchors. But we weren’t sure of the expletive would be “Oh shit, there goes the tent” or “Oh tent, there goes the ….” [Catrin] Other Musings What an amazing week of perfect weather, great company, superb food and 7 wonderful days in the mountains. What a great area – truly a Vancouver Island treasure to be loved and protected. [Rick Hudson] Thanks to Rick for all his amazing organizing. It was our first VI section camp and we loved it! Got to do some wonderful rock and steep snow – pushed our boundaries and learned lots. Great group of people and wonderful food. Thanks to all for the support and fun! [Peggy and Roger Taylor] Week 1 Participants (L to R): Back row: Roger Taylor, David Lemon, Fiona Lemon, Peggy Taylor, Geoff Bennett, Krista Zala, Kelly Osbourne; Front row: Graham Maddocks, Catrin Brown, Roger Painter, Rick Hudson, Phee Hudson. Missing: Morgan Blackley (photographer), Russ Moir, Rick Johnson 14 Week 2: July 24 - 31 Attendees Peter Brunette Alcina de Oliveira Terry Gagne Jeremy Gallie John Gray Byron Johnson Martin Hofmann Judith Holm Andrew Pape-Salmon Karen Payie Chris Ruttan Jules Thomson John Young Cedric Zala Ski Conditions Realizing the unique situation and a late snow pack this year and above average snowfall, Martin suggested skis for anyone interested. Five sets and boards came in on the heli basket. Well, it might be said that 6 sets boards came in, counting Cedric’s. Excellent spring snow conditions: • Up to col (en route to Thumb Pk) snow contiguous except for one short bit. • On July 26, Martin and Chris: up col, east along ridge to next high point, heading down north facing slopes intending loop to climb back up to col. • Carpe Diem!!! Ephemeral nature of those great conditions conducive to getting “out there”. [Judith] Monday July 26 Martin Hofmann and I set off from the ACC camp on our skis, heading up to the col just east of Thumb Peak for a day of skiing on the awesome (a word used too much I’ll grant you but applicable in this instance) north snowfield starting down from the top of the first high point east of the col. We felt a certain sense of urgency due to the rapid melting on this baking slope and we were determined to put in a day on these gorgeous expanses of snow. In the afternoon on the first day all of the skis came out for a scorching trip up to this col to check out the conditions and look around. It was really good skiing and we had seen the big snowfield farther east and the huge snow-filled couloir down off the col. 15 At any rate, today Martin and I were on the way up via the col to the big snow slope. Once on top of the rise it was obvious there was no issue getting off the top, there was no cornice and just below there was a nice ledge with a big roll over onto the main slope. We took off right away and soon found what snow was still in shade was icy and not great so we kept to the sun slope. We descended a long way past the easier slopes just to have a look past the edge. We reached back up to top in roughly ½ hour and took a break in the sun to check in on the radio and have a snack. It wasn’t long till we were on the ever warming slopes having another excellent run (no, I mean really excellent). At that point we decided to try to make a ski connection to the huge couloir below the col at the narrow last remaining snow bridge, it was laced with cracks from the snow creep. Back up to the top then and our last run down with Martin making a lovely ballet leap off the ridge over a large gap. Once at the snow connection to the gulley we discovered only one spot where large cracks did not block our descent and it was not clear how substantial it was, so no lingering and a quick ski over into the vast gulley. This gulley will, from this day onward, be known as Bear Shit Gulley due to the pile, fairly fresh, not far down in the steep snow. There was no sign of ski tracks associated with the shit so Martin and I are still pretty sure we are the only skiers this feature has known. It took us an hour to grind back up the gulley from the 1100 metre level by Martin’s GPS and there we had lunch and watched as the Mt. Bate group finally reached their summit; I have a monocular in my pack. It was a great 15 minute ski down to camp then out of the clutches of the ski boots. *Judith has asked that I mention today is the first appearance of mosquitoes, perhaps of interest to Rob and Ken. [Chris] Mt. Bate A party of six left camp at 7:15 in slightly cooler conditions than yesterday (2 nights ago there were Chinook winds). Within a half hour we were in the sun and needed to remove some clothes, put on sunscreen and our glacier glasses. The snow was firm and full of “melt triangles” (sun cups) and as such we speculated the skiers would have a miserable time on such hard snow. I was even thinking that my narrow “misery boards” with skins wouldn’t hold on the steep sections.. (we later found out that Martin and Chris had no trouble with the sun cups on their wide “shredder boards” – so what was I thinking ?!?) My official duty today was the stair maker punching in large flat steps in the snow with my plastic boots. The snow was flying everywhere around me on every kick, including up the legs of my ¾ length climbing shorts, a welcome occurrence, as it cooled me off in the morning heat. The route past above a gorgeous little lake/tarn that was forming above the snow looking like a blue lagoon with young coral. Before this section we did a little ice 16 axe self-arrest lesson and Jeremy and Byron got to experience hucking themselves down a snow slope and stopping on each side. Some of the steep sections of the day would have had moderate consequences from a fall, so practice was important. We went straight up the second last snow gulley to an upper bench (last week’s group took the 3rd last gulley, but a snow bridge over a creek was nearly finished) and quickly gained the summit block after a total travel time of 3 hours. Byron and Karen headed back while John Gray (John #1), John Young (#2) Andrew and Jeremy made the summit. It is really dark now in the circus tent, so I will finish this tomorrow… …The climb was stimulating and rewarding. This was my very first “alpine climb” with a harness and rock shoes but I have a year of sport climbing experience, did a couple alpine short rope trips and have been introduced to trad climbing on a 3 month mountaineering course (Yamnuska mountain skills semester). How was my first technical alpine climb? It was sugoi! (Japanese for awesome and great!) Not only did I avoid feeling vertigo, but my climbing was really clean, the protection system was interesting and multi faceted and John Gray’s leadership was excellent. The major hazard was rock-fall down the “black dike”. I belayed John to the shelf, but stood to the side below a slight overhang to avoid rock fall. I wasn’t anchored in, but had some foot supports. John belayed at all the other stations from above, probably a good approach due to rock fall. I found the whole experience really confidence-building and plan to work towards becoming a trad leader in the next year. I down-climbed from the summit to the shelf and was lowered with the second rope in my hand so that our rappel would get us to the bottom (last week’s group said a 60 metre rope was 5 metres short of the base). Note: the final pitch to the summit starts with a delicate section where you must search out little half-cm pieces (outcrops) for your feet for a few metres before turning left along a less technical slab. If there was protection, the rappel slab would be a beautiful climb. Total climb: 690 metres. [Andrew] 17 Diagram of the route up the summit tower of Mt. Bate Tuesday July 27 Tlupana Ridge Left camp @ 10 am – returned about 3. A great hike! A little slow to start, as I was too close to the creek just below camp. Rough terrain. Then contoured a little higher to the “S” couloir. A nice, gentle slope – easy kicking steps. Crossed some rough, and the near the top I took a 18 gulley left. Probably would’ve been easier , but not as interesting, if I’d gone straight. Nice flowers in gulley against the ridge. (Judith ID’d them.) Gained the ridge, and went south to the high point on ridge. Admired the view of Colonel Foster et al. while I ate my lunch. Then re-traced my footsteps but continued on the ridge to col below Thumb Peak. Some nice scrambling on the way and 2 sets of deer tracks on the ridge line. Snow is deteriorating and coming back down to camp was more round-about than it had been on Sunday. [John Y] Mt. Bate Chris Ruttan, Martin Hofmann, Alcina de Oliveira, Judith Holm, Peter Brunette, Karen Payie, Cedric Zala A party of three skiers and four hikers left camp about 7:30, having to ford the stream, as the snow bridge had recently collapsed (with the aid of a couple of ice axes). The group – known as the “Reprobates” (“Elitist Pigs” was suggested in reference to a story about a summit register but was vetoed) – hiked and skied happily along the lower bench past an azure blue ice lake, until Judith had trouble with her skins and joined the ranks of the hikers. Following the wise words of those who went before us, we took the second-last couloir up, which was quite steep. Cedric, with crampons, led the hiking contingent and kicked steps until we all reached the summit tower around 10:10. There was then some debate among the climbers as to where to stand, but recalling Andrew’s comment about a chimney with some large stopper rocks, Martin set up a belay at the bottom of the right place. Chris then led up and belayed Karen, Peter and Martin from above. He then soloed to the top and belayed the others up. Meanwhile Judith and Alcina botanized away at the base of the tower and Cedric collected insects on the snow. Then came the main attraction- the first known ski run down Mt. Bate! After a first “yahoo”, with great style and even greater speed they whizzed, whooshed and sprayed their way down the slope and the couloir, Martin only pausing to retrieve a dropped hat. They were back down at camp only 43 minutes after starting. On the hike back, Judith, Cedric, and Alcina checked out the final couloir but weren’t happy with the look of it and so retraced their steps and went down the second-to-last. A great day full of sunshine and high spirits! [Cedric] Wednesday July 28 Moving the Dome Tent Since the tent was originally erected by the intrepid first-weekers, it gradually settled as the surround snow melted by about a metre overall as of today. This made the experience a bit like entering an elevated temple – a temple with daily decreasing headroom! Also, a network of previously hidden streams appeared as 19 the melt continued. As the stream to the southwest approached the wall of the temple, it became clear that we would have to move before we were undercut. But where to? The area under the snow is riddled with unseen streams, and so we made an inspired guess as to where the water wasn’t and drove in an ice axe as the centre point. We then cleared and leaded an area to contain our new dome home. Stage 1 done. Then undid the guys, and a team lifted the dome over the tables, etc. and plunked it down at a temporary spot. The team then fell in and moved the tables to the new site, and lifted the tent onto it – a perfect fit. Stage 2 done! After we finally decided which way it should face, we finished the layout, finishing with a stepping stone before the main entrance. All done! We leave it to week 3 to finish the landscaping! Fun times! [Cedric] Mt. Alava Leaders Andrew Pape-Salmon and John Gray, with John Young and Jeremy Gallie Cramponed out of camp at 8:20 – up to Shangri-La, down to Peter Lake, around the shore – glad for the snow! (which hadn’t frozen overnight, but was firm.) We went up the main couloir and up the first “bunny ear” – snow melting out quite badly, and was tricky getting on to the rock. Three of us removed our crampons then – up the rock, onto more snow, then rock – some beautiful scrambling up to the last snowfield. Snow soft now, no crampons. Up to the summit block, around to the left and up through the “notch”. Donned helmets and harnesses, and Andrew his rock shoes. We free-climbed to the top – easy, not much exposure. Reached the top at 1:04. Relaxed, took pictures, admired the view of Rugged and the others. Andrew set up an anchor, and he, John Y, Jeremy, and I down climbed on belay, and John G soloed. On the way up we’d looked at the cornice at the top of the main couloir and deemed it to be fairly benign, so we thought we’d check it out. We entered the couloir from the side, near the top; not too steep, no signs of rock fall, and great way to descend! Andrew and John G stopped for a “swim” in Peter Lake, and Jeremy and I headed to camp to get supper ready; arrived back about 5. Great day! [?] Grattan Col and Thumb Peak Jules and Karen travelled up couloir to base of Mt. Grattan. Very nice views of Peter Lake, Listened to the gulls in the lake, two ravens above and a visiting hummingbird. Watched the Alava group summit with binoculars. Flower collecting and scrambling. Over to the scramble up to the Thumb climb. Very easy and enjoyable. Saw Martin’s ski tracks in the couloir snow – wow! 20 Nice easy day. [?] Thursday July 29 Mt. Grattan Jules Thomson, Karen Payie and Chris Ruttan went up Mt. Grattan today, leaving camp at 7:30 or so and up the big couloir to the col below the Thumb then out the connecting ridge to the base of the climb. We scrambled up a short ways then set up an anchor of sorts in the chossy garbage so Jules could lead up. It’s an easy ridge with the biggest concern from rock fall and of course no real way to protect the leader. One pitch was a bit steeper but no concerns and we were on the summit by 11am enjoying the views on another blue bird day. We replaced all the slings with new ones and Jules included rap rings. We were back in camp by 2pm. [?] Musings Byron Johnson puts pen to paper - finally. The week has been a fantastic experience for me. I’d not expected to do anything but hiking, yet joined the large group going up to Thumb Peak on July 25th. Despite being slightly spooked by the wind and loose stones I really enjoyed the climb. The next day’s ascent up Mt. Bate was great. I didn’t think I was able to do the summit tower so came down with Karen, who had also decided to skip the summit tower. The 27th and 28th were spent mainly around camp. I practiced rope climbing with Andrew and realized how much I had to learn to do that properly. On July 29th I joined the party going down to Peter Lake. We scrambled up to the col. I felt good dong that despite the “exposure”. Tomorrow, I’ll join the group doing the ridge. [July 30th – Fantastic walk up to and along so-called Tlupana Ridge.] [Byron] Peter Ridge Between Grattan col and Shangri-La/Peter Lake col. John Gray and Andrew Pape-Salmon sought out dry rock after a day on Alava snow. We walked past the little lake toward Peter Lake and assessed several crocks to our right – selecting the one that was least steep. We scrambled cleanly with little rock fall and no protection, gaining the ridge and bouncing over some bumps to the unnamed summit “Azalea Mountain” We explored the base of Grattan and concluded that the climb up would be full of loose stuff. We sought more clean rock and as such, “The thumb” scrambled to the base of the gendarme ridge. I decided to try a pitch on the ridge – placing two cams and one nut before turning around. I wasn’t too adventurous because I knew I had to down climb. We later found out that the route to the gendarme drops low from the base of the ridge and joins the SW facing chimney to the thumbnail. Total climb: 450 metres. [Andrew] Peter Lake and Grattan Col Enjoyable it was to explore for flowers with ACC’ers! We did a loop down to Peter 21 Lake (a hotspot for not only flowers, but also birds). Then up a mellow ridge (3rd class) specifically following vegetated areas. Up to Grattan col, where there were three plants of special interest, home via snow gulley. [Judith] Flora By Judith Holm Since there are no botanical records currently on file for the Alava-Bate area and it is clearly a special, unique area of the Island, it seemed worthwhile to take some time to “have a go” at recording our finds. Many contributed, bringing back sprigs of this and that, and all those eyes observing have enabled not only a longer list but also more fun in the process. Alcina, Jules and Terry were especially keen observers in week two. Most of the following species have been collected to enable verification, particularly for the rarer species. Roots were not taken except for some grasses and sedges, where roots are often essential for identification. The photos of flowers used for identification are almost all by Ken Wong. There is a late snow pack and much/most terrain is still under snow. This has been an advantage in respect to protecting the land from impact by our large party over three weeks. In fact we have camped in snow the entire time and our impact will be very low. However, only the earliest bloomers have been recorded during 1st and 2nd camps; hopefully week three participants will make additions and take photos! Certainly we need you, Ken! Partial Plant List of Alava-Bate Sanctuary Alpine Habitats (with some sub-alpine) The following list is the edited version and includes the findings of Ken Wong in week 3. Hans Roemer, PhD, has confirmed the identifications of the species collected and photographed. The responsibility is mine for ensuring that the final list is correctly spelled and includes only those species for which we have proof. (JH) Nomenclature follows the “Flora of British Columbia”, G. Douglas et al. Much information learned prior to visit was provided by Hans. Partial list of alpine plants (plus some from subalpine) Abies lasiocarpa Achillea millefolium Adiantum aleuticum Agoseris aurantiaca Alnus viridis ssp sinuata subalpine fir yarrow northern maiden-hair orange agoseris Sitka alder 22 Anaphalis margaritacea Antennaria alpina Antennaria rosea Aquilegia formosa Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Arnica amplexicaulis Arnica diversifolia Arnica latifolia Asplenium viride Athyrium distentifolium Blechnum spicant Boykinia occidentalis Caltha leptosepala Campanula rotundifolia Carex anthoxanthea Carex nigricans Carex pyrenaica Carex saxatilis (?) Carex scirpoidea Carex spectabilis Cassiope mertensiana Castilleja hispida Castilleja miniata Chamaecyparis nootkatensis Cirsium edule Claytonia lanceolata Cryptogramma acrostichoides Cystopteris fragilis Deschampsia caespitosa ssp beringensis Diphasiastrum alpinum Douglasia laevigata Elliottia pyroliflora Empetrum nigrum Epilobium anagallidifolium Epilobium angustifolium Epilobium clavatum Erigeron peregrinus Fauria crista-galli Gentiana platypetala Geum calthifolium Harrimanella stellariana Hedysarum occidentale Heuchera glabra Hieracium gracile Huperzia haleakalae Hypericum scouleri ssp scouleri Hypericum scouleri ssp nortoniae Juncus drummondii pearly everlasting alpine pussytoes rosy pussytoes Sitka columbine kinnikinnick streambank arnica diverse arnica mountain arnica green spleenwort alpine lady-fern deer fern coast boykinia white marsh-marigold common harebell yellow-flowered sedge black alpine sedge Pyrenean sedge russet sedge single-spike sedge showy sedge white mountain-heather harsh paintbrush scarlet paintbrush yellow cedar edible thistle western springbeauty parsley fern fragile fern tufted hairgrass alpine clubmoss smooth douglasia copperbush crowberry alpine willowherb fireweed club-fruited willowherb subalpine daisy deer-cabbage broad-petalled gentian caltha-leaved avens Alaskan mountain-heather western hedysarum smooth alumroot slender hawkweed clubmoss western St. John's-wort western St. John's-wort Drummond's rush 23 Juncus mertensianus Juncus parryi Juniperus communis Leptarrhena pyrolifolia Lloydia serotina Loiseleuria procumbens Lomatium martindalei Luetkea pectinata Luina hypoleuca Luzula parviflora Mimulus lewisii Mimulus tilingii Minuartia tenella (?) Mitella pentandra Moehringia macrophylla Osmorhiza berteroi Oxyria digyna Parnassia fimbriata Pedicularis ornithoryncha Pedicularis racemosa Penstemon davidsonii var. menziesii Petasites frigidus var. nivalis Phlox diffusa Phyllodoce empetriformis Phyllodoce glanduliflora Phyllodoce x intermedia Poa stenantha Polypodium amorphum Polystichum lonchitis Potentilla villosa Ranunculus cooleyae Ranunculus eschscholtzii Romanzoffia sitchensis Sanguisorba canadensis Saxifraga bronchialis Saxifraga ferruginea Saxifraga mertensiana Saxifraga nelsoniana ssp cascadensis Saxifraga tolmiei Sibbaldia procumbens Solidago multiradiata Sorbus sitchensis Stenanthium occidentale Triantha sp Tsuga mertensiana Vaccinium caespitosum Vaccinium deliciosum Vaccinium ovalifolium Merten's rush Parry's rush common juniper leatherleaf saxifrage alp lily alpine azalea Martindale's lomatium partridge-foot silverback luina small-flowered wood-rush pink monkey-flower mountain monkey-flower slender sandwort five-stamened mitrewort big-leaved sandwort mountain sweet-cicely mountain sorrel fringed grass-of-Parnassus bird's-beak lousewort sickletop lousewort Davidson's penstemon sweet coltsfoot spreading phlox pink mountain-heather yellow mountain-heather hybrid of pink and yellow narrow-flowered bluegrass Pacific polypody mountain holly fern cinquefoil Cooley's buttercup sub-alpine buttercup Sitka romanzoffia Sitka burnet spotted saxifrage Alaska saxifrage wood saxifrage Nelson's saxifrage Tolmie's saxifrage sibbaldia northern goldenrod Sitka mountain-ash mountainbells false asphodel mountain hemlock dwarf blueberry` blue-leaved huckleberry oval-leaved blueberry 24 Vaccinium uliginosum Vahlodea atropurpurea Valeriana sitchensis Veratrum viride Veronica wormskjoldii Viola adunca Viola orbiculata bog blueberry mountain hairgrass Sitka valerian Indian hellebore alpine speedwell early blue violet round-leaved violet Plants in this list which are of specific interest (rare) Peripheral species, southern (Olympic mountains) Douglasia laevigata (smooth douglasia) Blue listed in BC and rare on V.I. However, here it was not uncommon and was observed all along the ridge east of Thumb Peak, on Tlupana Ridge and at the base of Mt. Bate's summit block. Hedysarum occidentale (western hedysarum) Blue listed in BC. Here I saw it on same ridge as above, east of the col, slightly S-facing exposure but near top of ridge, a showy plant, here ~45 cm. John Young brought back a sprig from Tlupana Ridge Peripheral species, north western (Queen Charlottes /Alaska panhandle) Gentiana platypetala (broad-leaved gentian) Here found by Jules (and previously by Jules and Christine Fordham) at base of Mt. Grattan. Geum calthifolium (caltha-leaved avens) Rose family, leaves like a marsh marigold, a plant of northern oceanic distribution. On Vancouver Island it is known from Brooks. Pen. and scattered alpine habitats, especially moist and cool places such as near waterfalls. Harrimanella stelleriana (Alaskan mountain-heather) Has been found only a few times on northern Vancouver Island. It shares the same habitat as white and pink mountain-heather. Flaring flower bells, different leaf from regular white heather, white flower. Here first found by Alcina de Oliveira. 1550 metres. 0681117, 5531581 on ridge between col and Thumb Peak. And also seen on the west side of the bump that is immediately east of Grattan col. Ranunculus cooleyae (Cooley’s buttercup) 25 Look for in cold places near late-melting snow (here in downdrafts of Shangri-La basin), looks like a many-petalled subalpine buttercup with roundish leaves that are less deeply divided but have many marginal lobes. Generally rare on VI Lloydia serotina (alp lily) Despite being a very widespread plant globally with a circumpolar distribution, this miniature lily is rare on VI and restricted to northern third of VI. Rarely more than 10 cm tall. The plants on the Brooks Peninsula have been identified as a special variety, Lloydia serotina var. flava. Ken: Lloydia serotina is growing in the stony ground alongside the stream beside camp (camp is at 1152 metres . 0681680 , 5531056) would be great if you can find this one too. Otherwise, Ken: There is so much snow around that it is simply a matter of looking where there is no snow! Peter Lake shores have a great display; scrambly bit at the start of the summit block of Mt. Bate (is above the snowfield) has a good display; The Antennaria alpina was collected at the summit of Mt. Alava; scrambling around rock faces produced results – in general plants are ahead on S facing rock faces of course. May the snow keep melting so you can find more flowers! You – and all who are or become interested Nearby Limestone As limestone is where there is more diversity of plants, I checked into where the closest limestone is, hoping to get to it from the camp. However, it was clearly too rough to travel and too far, even with the benefit of stable snow, when we saw the ridge for ourselves. Chris, Karen and I will investigate the possibility of an approach via the logging road north of the heli staging area. Insects Almost everyone participated in bug collecting, Martin with the most exciting and successful way of capturing fast flyers. Week two’s little vial of preserved bugs is jammed full and we are hoping the specimens will be in good enough shape to be identified. It was easiest to collect from the snow. A bug / butterfly net was improvised to try to catch the faster moving species, as our samples were clearly skewed by ease/difficulty of capture. Ants were very common and were observed on flowers. There appeared (to the layman’s eye) to be several species of bees (and bee lookalikes) pollinating. These were the two general groups of insects associated with the flowers. 26 Other Fauna Deer seen several times up on ridges Fresh bear scat north side of Thumb Peak E-West ridge Frogs – began ‘rivet-rivet’ for first time July 29. Interestingly they turned up almost immediately following a Cedric-led evening of song in the lady bug tent. Is this connected? Birds: Ravens, Anna’s/rufous? hummingbird, American dipper, pippit? ptarmigan with chicks, mew gulls Friday July 30 Base Camp Bump Today I climbed the “bump” directly south of camp. My altimeter read 1474 metres on the summit. I crossed the creek on “terry’s bridge” traversed west, for maybe 100m (just above the creek) and then up a snow ramp that led me to the couloir coming down from the bump. I went up the snow to about 1330 metres elevation, and then scrambled up the rock to the summit. Lovely, grippy rock, albeit some loose chunks. I built a cairn on top and made a temporary register (pill vial). Wandered around the top, and then descended on the S SW side directly onto snow and started down. It steepened up, and I thought the rock looked more appealing so I down climbed on rock back to 1300 metres then I returned to camp via the Mt. Bate route. A lovely outing. I was hoping to see Andrew and Martin skiing down from Alava, but I missed them. Took me 1.25 hours to the summit – 4 hours overall (with my moseying around the summit). A great ending to a great week! [John Y] More Sightings White-tailed Ptarmigan Sightings (UTM’s on Gold River) 92 E/16 • Thumb peak, 1601 metres, 0681054 , 5531575, Mom and 5 chicks – summer foliage and again at 1506 metres, 0681200 , 5531644 • Tlupana ridge , 0682500 , 55, 2 Ptarmigans (note: week one folk also saw 4 chicks on this ridge) • Mt. Bate – south end snow ledge on approach to base , 0682400 , 5529300,1 Ptarmigan • Mt. Alava , 1300 metres , 0680300 , 5529400, 2 Ptarmigans (note: week one folk also saw 4 chicks on this ridge) • Mt. Bate – Beside snowfield at base of summit block, 0681500 , 5529250, Ptarmigan droppings 27 • Butterfly beautiful orange and brown patterns! Pinned taken to Victoria for identification) 1101 metres , 0680500 , 5529400 , Mt. Alava – snow couloir, same species seen in various locations in Alava Bate area, 2010.07.24-30 • Other butterflies / moths maybe o -Small white – many o -Small blue with navy blue markings – many 1473 metres, 06819233 , 5531693 • Dragonflies – several • Caterpillar by camp – black shiny eyes, 1 blue-black spot 2/3 back, black cross stripes length of body, dusky yellow rear Alava on Skis Martin and Andrew skied to the summit bloc up the main gulley/couloir. I checked the state of the cornices 2 days earlier and felt that it had receded enough to justify using the gulley. (Note: Major rain or lack of night cooling could make the whole gulley an avalanche hazard) We switch backed up to some rocks just below the cornice and crossed 20 metres to the main summit snowfield. About 50 – 100 metres below the “notch” we walked because of the steepness and the lack of strength in the top inch of snow. The ski down on the summit field was exceptional around 1 pm – soft sugar snow. Spring skiing on July 30! I borrowed John Young’s AT skis and used my old leather tele-boots. The hard sun cups at the top of the couloir were too much for my abilities so I slid down horizontal (on my edges) to the lump in the middle of the gulley (likely a rock under snow) After that I did turns to the bottom – exiting on the right snow bank (left as you are looking up). Martin tele’d the entire thing, including a narrow band below the cornice (extreme skier!). Overall, I would recommend skiing Alava – provided stability is good. It was fun to take off ski boots and put on rock shoes for the scramble to the summit in full summer weather and heat! Total climb 870 metres. [Andrew] Last Evening Awards • • • • • • Keenest climber: Jeremy Best catch (insect and flower): Judith Formidable self-arrest: Byron Ingenious anchor: John Gray (wrap around chalkstone) Most falling off stool: Jeremy Amazing turns: Martin 28 • • • • • • • • Guide extraordinaire: Chris and John Gray Fantastic climb: Karen (Grattan) "The Hills are Alive with the Sounds of Music" - Cedric and Martin Exceptional bridge and rock work - Terry Decadent dessert: Alcina, Cedric and Karen Light footed - John Young Precarious water collection - Andrew (on the flank of Bate) Singer-songwriter - Peter and Chris Final night – John Y bivied on a rock. Final Morning – Awoke to Chris’ mellow guitar playing out on the gravel bar, where Cedric, Peter and Chris have sung each afternoon – I will miss their lowkey, musical gifts. [Judith] Week 2 Participants (L to R): Back row: Byron Johnson, Jules Thomson, John Gray, Peter Brunette, Jeremy Gallie, Mt Alava, Martin Hofmann, Cedric Zala, John Young; Front row: Terry Gagne, Judith Holm, Alcina De Oliveira, Karen Payie, Chris Ruttan, Andrew Pape-Salmon 29 Week 3: July 31– August 7 Attendees Mort Allingham Nicole Barrette Paul Barrette Lindsay Elms Rick Eppler Karen Hoover Robie Macdonald Cory Milne Walter Moar Martin Smith Tony Vaughn Frank Wille Ken Wong Valerie Wootton Saturday July 31 The Thumb We were all raring to go at 10:00. Even Rob, who had a flat tire 16 km from the pick up area. The transfer of gear and people went smoothly. After setting up and eating lunch the group split up. Group #1 consisting of Lindsay, Val, Mort, Karen, Walter and Frank, headed up The Thumb. We went up the snow ramp and onto the rock climbing to the south ridge onto the Thumb. Half way up where the ridge steepens and narrows Lindsay led a pitch and 3 climbers (Val, Karen and Walter) prussiked up then Frank and Mort tied onto the end of the rope and were belayed up to Lindsay. This was repeated again to the notch on the south side of the summit block. Lindsay then climbed down and across the east side to the north of the summit block and set up a hand line. Once there we scrambled up to the summit where we could see group #2 on the summit of Thumb peak. We rapped down from the peak used the hand line once again to traverse back to the east side where Lindsay set up a full single rope repel which he down climbed. We then scrambled back to the bottom of the south ridge. Before we descended the snow ramp we scooted across to the high point overlooking the col. PS. The rock is sharp! See frayed rope used as a sling on the first rap. [Val] Thumb Peak Group #2 Rick, Rob, Martin, Cory, Tony and Ken made up the 2nd group as we didn’t want to carry climbing gears on the first day. We went up Thumb Peak via the col east of Thumb Peak. We watched group #1 climb the Thumb and rappelled off. It looked steeeep from our vantage point! All captured with my 400mm zoom. [?] 30 Bate Shoulder Group #3 Only consisted of Nicole and Paul. We headed up the little peak to the west of camp via the ‘bate route’. Was fairly easy and straightforward a mixture of easy snow-walking and rock scrambling. A few tricky bits at the top. Nice view though! And a lot higher than it looks at first glance. Boot skied most of the way down. [?] - Sunday August 1 Mt. Alava and Lindsay’s Accident The day started out with blue sky and excited energy exuding from all, although it proved to be a day of big ups and downs.. both literally and figuratively. The entire group of us were kicking steps into the snow en-route to Mt. Alava by 8:00 AM. An easy traverse around the ice-covered lake near the camp and a slight incline brought us to the col above Peter Lake. We descended via boot-ski to the rocky base. Disaster struck at a rest spot near the bottom. While waiting for the other to catch up, Lindsay took a tumble into some rocks. He gashed his head a bit and landed badly on his right hand. It appeared that he’d dislocated his thumb and the rounded end of the bone was poking out through the skin. We sat him down quickly and did some quick first aid on the hand. Then, realizing that Lindsay would have to be flown out, the group split up with Mort, Karen, Val, Rob, and Walter escorting him back and eight of us continuing on. (Paul, Cory, Nicole, Ken, Frank, Rick, Martin, and Tony) We were all pretty shaken, but continued up the planned route. We followed the gulley for a short bit, then crossed over to the right and scramble up the ridge towards the summit. Another patch of snow and a tricky bit to the top, with lots of rock fall. We enjoyed the summit view, darkened slightly as it was from the day’s events. We headed down back the way we came and our group of 8 split in two again. Rick, Martin and Tony decided to return to camp while the remainder went on to climb up to Alava-South. It was a pretty steep climb up a snowy face with icy parts, and now run out. We regretted not bringing the rope. The top was meadow-like but the last step up was again quite tricky (high fourth, maybe a couple of fifth class?) Again with the regret rope-wise we all scampered up anyways to enjoy the view and sense of accomplishment. Wee continued down around the other side of Alava-South to make a circuit out of it for the descent. We crossed across the snow in search of a gulley, which we found. It was fairly steep but do-able. There was much boot-skiing and one risky situation when Paul fell waist-high into a 30ish foot bergschrund. Luckily he fell forward and averted the crisis. The rest of the walk back was pretty uneventful 31 we descended to the lake, then walked back up the col and back into camp. Lindsay was gone already air-lifted out. [?] As mentioned, Lindsay slipped and as it turned out what could have been a scuffed hand ended up as a compound dislocation and a substantial scalp wound. Val dressed and stabilized Lindsay’s hand, the cut on his head was thankfully not very bad. Once Lindsay was ready to go, he retuned to camp with Mort, Karen, Val, Robie, and Walter. The climb back up to the col is not the easiest at the best of times, but Lindsay naturally did a great job one-handed. From there it was across the steep slope to the west of the lake, and then back again to camp. Once back at camp, Robie and Mort used the satellite phone (one of air rescue guys said ”’Global Star’ makes a good paper weight) to try to call out. After finally being able to get a signal, calling the RCMP did not work so they called 9-1-1 and sent in our coordinates. In the meantime Val, Karen, and Walter helped unsure that Lindsay was comfortable – and Lindsay told jokes and gave us some riddle to think about. After travelling back to camp and calling for help at 10:00, the wait began for help to arrive. This consisted of Lindsay entertaining the group, plus periodic spottings of the other folks up on Alava. At 13:00 we heard a helicopter coming in, landing close to camp. The four air rescue people assessed Lindsay’s condition and said they would be taking him to Gold River where he would travel by ambulance to Campbell River for treatment. They also said that a RCMP helicopter would be a few minutes behind them as it was unknown if the first would be able to land. With Lindsay onboard they flew off toward Alava on their way to Gold River (we miss you already, Lindsay). With idle hands and much on our minds, the group split into two to keep busy for the remainder of the day. Karen and Mort went rock climbing on Mt. Bate, while Robie led Val and Walter up along Tlupana ridge. Heading north from camp up to the ridge, it wasn’t long before Robie had everyone up to the top. Val and Walter were eager to climb Thumb Peak, having been up The Thumb the day before. A quick ascent to a stunning view of the Thumb was made, with a little time spent at the top but a hasty trip back down to rejoin Robie. With Val and Walter seven minutes overdue on their Thumb Peak trip, Robie had gone on ahead. By the time the three had joined up again, Robie was found bathing in a tarn henceforth known as Lake Robie. The ridge route continued with a short detour to the north spur ridge. From there the main ridge was rejoined and the way made to its highest point. A solid attempt was made at fining a route down back to camp, but in the end the steps were retraced to go back up the ridge and return to camp. It was a long and unfortunately eventful day, and many were asleep at an early hour. Lindsay is on everyone’s minds, and we wish him the best. [?] 32 Monday August 2 Mt. Bate Rob, Rick, Frank, Ken and Walter climbed Mt. Bate. Rick led and belayed the rest up in 2 rope chairs. Rappelled with double rope to snow. [?] Mt. Grattan With Mort in the lead kicking steps for Karen and Val we headed up the Thumb col with the goal of climbing Grattan. We quickly reached the saddle, crossed the small ice field and reached the ridge. From here we stopped and assessed the route up Grattan. We were all intimidated from this vantage point could not pick out a route. We decided a closer look was required. Once under the mountain we realized the rock was not as steep and had wonderful foot and hand holds. We quickly changed into our climbing shoes and leaving our poles, ice axes and boots behind scampered up to the summit in an hour. We spent an hour on top eating a very early lunch and exploring the summit. We found a neat tunnel/cave at one point. We delayed our departure as long as we could and then headed down. We scrambled down to the first sling/rap station which we repositioned. We used a double rope (the ½ way length was just a few feet above the ground) and rapped down. Then we down climbed to the next station and did a single rope rappel, then some more scrambling to the next station. We fortified this anchor a bit more before using a double rope rappel. A short scramble down and we were at our boots and poles/ice axes. We changed footwear (oh what a relief getting out of those shoes) and slowly started back to camp. We enjoyed the trip down taking in the views. We were worried that if we arrived back in camp too early we would have to move the food tent. We arrived back at 14:00 and the tent was in good shape although the melt is happening quickly and more gravel is being exposed. [Val] Tuesday August 3 Mt. Grattan Rob, Rick, Frank, Ken, Martin, Tony and Walter We all trotted over to Grattan to examine the E Ridge. We climbed it on two ropes taking a couple of hours up, but the rappels took about twice as long! Great day ended by smoke from a forest fire to the North. [?] Mt. Bate We awoke to a very heavy dew on the tents, Today our goal was Mt. Bate and the group participants were Mort, Karen, Val, Paul, Nicole, Cory. We followed the snow benches on the SE face and had a pleasant 2 hour walk to the base of the rocky outcropping with Mt. Bate above us. We broke into 2 33 groups with Nicole (on her first lead climb, (congrats Nicole!)) leading Paul and Cory up a wide crack and Mort leading Val and Karen to the right of the other group doing a face climb. We arrived on a ledge and Mort led up to the summit, belaying Karen and Val. This group descended and waited on the ledge while the other group of Nicole (leading), Paul and Cory climbed to the summit. We rapped down and leisurely headed back to camp having crossed one more peak off our list. This evening we smell smoke and a haze settled over the mountains and camp. We also had word from Lindsay. His thumb was popped back in and a titanium pin put through he fracture then casted up. The doctor does not think there was any nerve or tendon damage done, of course he was thinking of hiking back in to camp if he could find a ride to the trail head. [?] Wednesday August 4 The Peter Lake Circuit Under a red, smoky sunrise, Walter, Val, Mort and Karen set off to complete their interrupted climb of Mt. Alava. Snow conditions had changed a lot in 3 days. The traversing slopes above the small lakes leading to the col were steeper and icier than earlier in the week. As we neared the enlarged rock fields at the bottom of the col to Peter Lake, we heard the crack of an avalanche let go and looked up to see large snow chunks rolling down the middle 2/3 of the approach col to Alava. Right over the route. This was at 8 in the morning as we sat on the rocks and guessed which section would go next. Val and Karen had a memory of Lindsay telling them that there was a regular route around the east side of Peter Lake which would lead to the east ridge of Alava and the summit. Mort and Walter took their word for it and the foursome started scrambling along the lake shore bluffs. Before long we were spread eagle in a kilometre long traverse of steep cliffs above the lake. With screeching gulls circling overhead. The exercise came to an end at the top of a smooth, angular ledge that ended at what Mort now calls “Terror Wall”. He needed an emergency roped belay to come down from that spot and it was clear we had to go down to the lake or back the way we came. Val slipped on her rock shoes and scampered down a few ledges to the lake shore rocks. The rest of us (slightly shaken and wearing boots) rapped down to where she had picked out a spot onto the snowfield and over to the boulder run out. A speedy walk let to “first lunch” at 12:30 in a beautiful meadow. From the meadow, Walter, Mort and Karen took the high road over rounded bluffs around the end of the lake to the outflow. Val accused us of lacking “adventurous spirit” and opted to do a little bootless lake hiking. It looked like a shallow, underwater edge would run all the way along the shore to the grassy 34 outflow. But before the end, she was bootless, sockless and bottomless and scampering up from the lake onto the bluffs. After composing and clothing herself she followed the high route to join us for the wade across the stream. From this point it was an easy 600 metre hike up the beautiful rock ridge. Views would have stretched in all directions except for the smoke which obscured everywhere equally. All we could enjoy was the fantastic, braided waterfall out of Peter Lake and the clean shape of the “Thumb” that gave Thumb Peak its name. A short trod across a snowfield let to a careful climb up a rocky gulley. All four of us stood on top by 3:30pm. The vertical-ness of Alava South looked like too much for our tired group. We decided instead to start the unknown descent down the ramps to a safe spot to cross that blasted gulley. There hadn’t been a single snowflake roll down it since the morning’s release. In less than two hours we easily skipped down the rock buttresses to less than 100 feet above the lake. Singly we made quick runs across the gulley and then walked steadily across the rock fall fields and ice berg calving self. After a quick snack on the last boulder field, Mort made sure we were over the col and back to camp in less than 45 minutes. A long trip just short of 12 hours with a long story to tell and write. [?] The Thumb Rick, Rob, Ken, Paul, Cory, Nicole Rick, Rob and Ken set off for “The Thumb” whilst shortly behind Paul, Cory and Nicole were headed for Grattan. They decided to join our group and we climbed the thumb arete as two ropes – up and down. Nice day. [?] According to legend or rather the ‘99 article brought in about the first ascent, the day started out just as it should. Robbie legged it out of camp in earnest and made his way up the col with the rest of us in hot pursuit. Though Rick and Ken had left before Paul, Nicole and myself, Robbie was up the col and out of sight towards Thumb before anybody had a chance to catch him. When we arrived at the top of the col, it was to find Robbie resting, back against the rock playing a game of marbles with rocks. After a quick rest and a chat about old days and past ascents with our two legends, Rick and Rob, we packed up and headed for the original route up the well-named Thumb. Rob led a simulclimb with Ken in the middle and Rick at the end. Paul followed up the tremendously clean and nicely exposed 4th class arête. Unfortunately Nicole was sporting a newly aggravated old wrist injury which forced her to stay behind. I cleaned Paul’s placement with as much haste as I could manage. The climb did offer enough time to marvel at the headspace of Paul given it was his first ever lead. At the top of the arête I secured and again let Paul take the lead across the 35 narrow blade on approach to the last pitch before the summit. A short scramble up a mossy and heathery gulley lead to the very unstable summit. The views here were fantastic and as from every other summit point, offered another amazing perspective on this whole sanctuary. The descent down was the most difficult for me. It seemed like every foot placement slipped until I lost my head and my confidence. Needless to say I was happy to lie down. We then tied our two ropes together and down climbed as a 5 member team on 100 metres of rope. Rob mentioned to keep the rope tight so we wouldn’t feel more than a little jerk if one were to fall. He then took a peek at Rick on the end and mentioned that there already was a little jerk on the rope. We arrived back at the top of the col by 1pm, dropped our bags and put our feet up to enjoy the sun. The flies were a swarm and difficult to get used to. We all thought there must have been a dead animal near by but then noticed Rob with his shoes off. Once we realized there was more flies than blue sock showing we backed away and got ready to depart. Poor Rob. Rather I feel particularly bad for whomever is driving home with him. Ken stayed up on the ridge to take photos of the flowers, a habitat we had gotten used to. Nicole and I descended last and enjoyed the friendly and picturesque sight camp provided. [Cory] Thursday August 5 Karen had a camp day. Mort climbed up Thumb Peak to scout a possible ridge traverse route. He was back for lunch. We wore the “yellow gloves” after lunch. [?] Ken went to Tlupana Ridge to take pictures of the Hedysarum occidentale and watched the Bate group coming off. [Ken] After the previous day up Alava and back, everyone was quite tired and a rest day was definitely in the works. After a nice relaxing sleep-in, Val spent the day in camp enjoying the weather and updating the summer camp log book. Walter took the morning to head out with a camera and got some great flower shorts around the lake and up onto the rocks. After a leisurely lunch and a 2pm “Alpine Club start” Val and Walter went for a small hike/climb down to the lake below the basin. The climb was somewhat wet, definitely mossy in parts, and not particularly elegant. The lake is rather… unassuming, with quite a few flowers. There was a deer and bambi down by the lake, and much lounging and sunning on the rocks. The route up was along the stream, with much boulder jumping and dodgy snow dodging. We were back in camp early enough for a siesta before the evening fiesta. [?] Thumb Peak Cory, Paul and Nicole headed up to the top of the ridge to climb Thumb peak. It was slow going, but the view from the top was great. The smoke in the valleys is on the way out. We hung around at the top for a bit and saw some snow falling 36 off around the base of Grattan before wandering back down. Spent the afternoon dozing off and the evening playing puzzle games in the dome tent with most of the club. “Black magic” and “crossed/uncrossed” had plenty of stumped for a while! [?] Friday August 6 Mt. Grattan Cory, Paul and Nicole set out early (7:30) for a chance to tick off the last peak on our list, Mt. Grattan. We beat the heat up the snow gulley to gain the ridge in just over a half-hour. Crossed the snow high up and traversed the wide ridge to the base of the mountain. Even from close up it looked quite imposing. We climbed up without the use of rope, although we found some sections a little unnerving (mainly the 2nd pitch) Our route stayed mostly to the right until we reached the part where it levelled out. Along the top traverse we stayed mostly left (and found Shelob’s Cave!) to the summit, shrouded with loose rock. We didn’t hang around at the top too long due to it’s resemblance to a blasting site.. We had lunch at the top of the first rappel, and got some great shots of Mort and Karen traversing between the Thumb and Thumb Peak. The rappels went quickly and smoothly and we were back in camp in time for a late lunch! [?] Thumb Enchainment 7:10Am start for Karen and Mort on an attempt to link the Thumb to Thumb Peak via the south to north ridge. Climbed the Thumb standard route from south. Set a rappel about 10 metres up the last pitch on the north edge. One rope rappel to a notch between the Thumb and the serrated section of the Thumb to Thumb ridge. Short pitch up and down serrations to sling belay on last spike. Down Climb to base of serrations. 45 metre roped scramble along the ridge with a couple of sling runners. Belayed at large block in large notch of eroded dyke. Ridge then blocked by near vertical wall. Down climbed rappelled 30 metre down gulley towards the east. Loose rock, not enjoyable. Climbed out of gulley and up Thumb Peak in two roped pitches and a scramble up east side of peak. All climbing mid 5th class or less. Route could be reversed from north to south if a rappel was set above near vertical wall. The climb up from the serrations to the first rappel would again be mid 5th. 1st recorded Thumb enchainment – “All Thumbs traverse” we arrived at summit of Thumb Peak at 1:00Pm. Enjoyed summit snacks then scrambled back down to camp through a few spits of rain. Back at camp around 3:00Pm. [?] Tlupana Ridge It was a fairly lazy last day for Walter, the last out of bed in an attempt to wait for 37 it to warm up before getting out. Ken, Martin, and Tony were in camp watching the adventure up on the Thumb, and everyone else was out on trips. I was tempted to spend another day around camp, but kept thinking about the ridge to the north of Tlupana Ridge. It was a half hour climb up to the col east of Thumb Peak, on rapidly melting out snow slopes and rock. From the col it was east to the top of the ridge, then NNW to head onto the ridge. It was more route finding through rotten snow to get down to the low point on the ridge. From there it was just following the ridge as a scramble up and down. All along the ridge there were great views of all the major peaks of the week: Bate, Thumb, Alava, and Grattan. It was also a great vantage point for the view of people on Thumb as well as someone going up a snow slope on Alava. I took the ridge out to the peak at GR805326, had some lunch and made the return trip back. When getting close to Tlupana Ridge, I cut across to the Thumb col rather than climb to the ridge summit. From there it was a longer than usual hike down to camp due to the lack of good snow. [?] Alava South and South Point on Alava Ridge Rick, Frank, Val, Rob Set off at 8am traversing hard snow around a side of Shangri-La lake. Clear and cool ambitions prevailed as we dropped down to Peter Lake. Lots of the glacier / snowfield below Bate had calved off into the lake leaving a big bite out of the snout. We each ambled in different routes over the talus or up the couloir to reach the large bowl that sits between Bate and Alava South when we finally came out of shade and into the sun. Val and Rob angled right onto the rock buttress leading up to Alava South while Frank and Rick went straight for the obvious couloir leading up to the wide gap between Alava south and the high point to the south. Rick and Frank got to the top of their couloirs a little faster than Val and I made it up our buttress, but our route led directly up onto Alava South which we reached at 1100. We all did that peak and then ambled over to the South point for lunch. We then dropped down to the col on the ridge to Bate and then back to the large snow bowl and over the tedious rock fall. A little light rain hit us on the way back – followed by a beer or two at camp. [Robie] Downstream Ken went to the lower lake outlet. It’ll be tough coming up thru the canyon with a full pack. Found mist maiden. [Ken] Saturday August 7 The storm roared thru and everything was wet! 38 Week 3 Participants (L to R): Paul Barrette, Nicole Barrette, Cory Milne, Valerie Wootton, Mort Allingham, Karen Hoover, Rob Macdonald, Tony Vaughn, Martin Smith, Frank Wille, Rick Eppler, Ken Wong, Walter Moar. Missing: Lindsay Elms Appendix A: Notes on the Local Peaks Mt. Bate Follow the E bench for an hour, then curve up the SE flank to the final rock traverse. Start between the main tower and the one to its right. 45 metres 5.4: Chimney with a block about 7m up. Angle L above chimney to blocks/horns, then right up to large terrace with rap slings. 10 metres 5.6: Delicate moves up right hand edge then left up slab to summit piton. Room for 2-3 only. Rap off pin to large ledge. Rap tatt there allows a 60 metre rope (30 metre rap) to just reach bottom of chimney. Make sure ends of rope are tied and equal length. Please take up “new” summit register and container on table in some tent. Mt. Alava Over col and down to Peter Lake. Traverse right up into long couloir that has cornice at top. Climb up and across to first tongue of snow to exit right. Up rock. Back on snow, angle up right for 400-500 metres, scramble rocks to upper terrace, then diagonal left up snow slopes to Alava’s upper snowfield on south side above cornice. Final 50 metres to rock on S side of peak to a notch. 39 Traverse on ledge (thin) about 10 metres above top of W snowfield, then angle up left – one 5.4 left step-over. Scramble to top 100 metres. Mt. Grattan Climb snow chute to left of Thumb to col, then traverse to foot of Grattan (1 hour). Scramble to heather ledge below small dark overhang. 50 metre 5.4: Move left onto red rock and climb 30 metres to ledge. Angle right on red rock to cedar ledge. 55 metre 5.4: (Scramble up left 5metres) then climb ridge crest on red rocks to broad ledge. Thin protection on upper part, but easy grade 5.2. 50 metres 5.4: (Scramble to start of rock). Climb small overhang by stepping up let, then angle up right to finish on broad ledge with tap slings. Scramble to summit 300 metres. One short delicate slab of 4 metres, or chimney on its left. Thumb Peak and Ridge The ridge is best climbed SE to NW. Descend river valley 25 minutes, then angle up snow slopes and heather to ridge top. Superb views 300 metres to S along ridge. Then come back, squeezing past snow patch at narrow spot, and then up and over 3 separate peaks. First one taken on right. Next on left (S side) to reach top. Final one up snow slope on N side. Very varied route and highly recommended. Finish at Thumb Peak col. Thumb Peak has a lower rock spur on E side that makes superb class 4 scrambling. Higher up angle higher onto snow to summit. Peter Lake to Thumb Col: Descend Shangri-La col to near Peter Lake, then angle across exposed heather ledges to SW ridge of Thumb. Follow up on red rock and superb views – steep hiking and a few scrambling spots. Finish at top of snow couloir that descends back to camp, below Thumb. Recommended. Appendix B: Suggestions for Improvements Cedric • • Have each week responsible for flying out and/or disposing of its own waste, and have a better plan for its disposal in place. Rig up a tarp (or net) over the cargo load, tucked down the side of the net, to prevent anything from falling out. 40 • Bring along a VHF radio to communicate with the helicopter company in case of bad weather. Robie Macdonald • I'll wade in with more detail later, but I'd add that we could purchase a set of plastic shipping containers (2 or 3 sizes, e.g.) suitable for the cooking/communal material; I saw some at RONA that would do the job and were only about $7 apiece. This would prevent sodden, motley-sized cardboard boxes becoming a problem, they would be easily recycled rather than chucked, and if stacked they could provide dry surfaces on which to place things. As it was, a knife point sticking through one of the cardboard boxes almost wounded Val while we were packing gear out. We could look into sizes favorable for fitting into helicopters. Rick Johnson • • • The only thing that popped to mind apart from the points you’ve made was the idea of some sort of shower area (if the area could support it environmentally that is). This is really only four poles and tarp, people could bring their own shower bags? I think we need to consider the numbers the rope leaders had from time to time. We should attempt to get those numbers down more. I had six people on two occasions, which worked OK for what we were doing. Had terrain been anymore technical, or presented any surprises, it would have been a different story. Not being professionals, my preference would have been to have seen this down to 1 leader to 2 or 3 participants maximum. The idea of doing the pre-camp refresher training turned out to be something that was time well spent. I had several occasions in which we had to do a group rappel and this really helped me as a leader. People otherwise were relatively well prepared for what they signed up for. Ken Wong • Pack out your own! Read "How to shit in the woods": an environmentally sound approach to a lost art By Kathleen Meyer http://books.google.ca/books? id=xTA72GxFjasC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false, Chapter 3&4. Byron Johnson • I think those and Robie's suggestion about the storage containers are good if a similar camp is planned. What I would add, although I suspect someone else may do so too, is acquiring some form of rack for the ropes, etc. It could be made of ABS piping which is light weight and could be friction fitted on site although some portion would best be glued together permanently. I also wonder about getting something as a floor in the big tent, possibly just cardboard, but a tarp might work too. 41 Geoff Bennett • We need a better waste management system. I've asked the ACC to provide us with the proceedings of the recent "Exit Strategies" conference in Golden, Colorado http://www.americanalpineclub.org/exitstrategies so that we can get some ideas. We need an alternative to plastic bags. Morgan Blackley • For waste management, you might also want to contact BC Parks, they have "outhouses" set up in the Bugaboos, and all the waste is flown out via helicopter. They might have some suggestions (or they might even have done some research on the matter). Martin Hofmann Just a couple of thoughts/ideas: • • • • flagging to identify baggage, 1 colour per week stove platform to protect tables consider supports for stools and tables to prevent sinking into the snow a solar shower 42