2008 - 2C2T - Universidade do Minho
Transcrição
2008 - 2C2T - Universidade do Minho
CENTRE FOR TEXTILE SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY (2C2T) - 2008 1.1 Introduction The Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T) is a research unit of Minho University. The Centre started its activity in 1978, being the first unit of R&D in Portugal specialized in the development of Science and Technology of textile materials and processes. The Centre research activity is organized in three research groups, covering the domains of the entire textile and apparel value chain, namely • Textile Physics, • Textile Chemistry, • Management, Design and Marketing. Each research group is coordinated by a Principal Investigator nominated by the Unit Coordinator. Researchers belong to a group according to their research activities. The management structure of the Unit is composed by the Director (Unit Coordinator), the Steering Committee, the Coordination Board and General Assembly. The Director is elected among the senior doctorate members of the Unit and is responsible of representing the Unit, nominate the Principal Investigators and ensure the management activities. The Steering Committee competences are mainly concerned with the approval of activity reports and financial budget as well as decide on the organization and research activities carried out within research groups. The Coordination Board ensures the management of Research groups and is responsible to elaborate the annual reports and propose the activity and budget plans. The General Assembly is responsible to approve Centre Regulation and promote the elections every two years. The core-group involves 31 researchers working in the three above identified areas, 11 senior scientists and 20 junior scientists. Several grant researchers were also involved. 1.2 Objectives The vision and mission of 2C2T is to be the leading agent of industry’s change for global competition, providing the knowledge base for the continuing viability of the textile and apparel industries. The general objectives of the Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T) are: • To contribute to the development of scientific and technological research in the textile and apparel fields; • To collaborate with other Universities and Research Units in research activities and post-graduated courses; • To contribute to scientific and technology transfer between national and international organizations; • To develop activities of technical support for the community; • To conduct, participate and support research activities; • To organize seminars, conferences and lectures on related projects, • To conduct experimental and research studies, to prepare scientific projects, reports and documents; • To make publications; • To participate in directing and coordinating research activities; To accomplish this, the unit adopts a multidisciplinary approach in carrying out research work within the university and also in collaboration with foreign universities, research institutions and companies, covering the complete textile and apparel supply chain. The main areas of research, according the competences of the Unit and the needs of this specific domain of activity, are focused in several fields, namely on Conductive Textile Polymers, Process Monitoring and Control, Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials (microcapsules to textiles and footwear, new methods for application of dyes and biofunctionalisation of textiles), Fibre Bioprocesses (enzyme science, biological process on renewable materials, enzymatic processing of textiles), Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials (plasmatic discharge in textile processing, reusable medical textiles, advanced techniques for textile effluents treatment), 3D Shaped Textile Preforms for Composites and New Product Design Methodologies for Customization. Dissemination of results through conferences’ organization and the establishment of cooperation protocols involving research, knowledge and technology transfer with international and national organizations are other activities carried out by the Unit to promote excellence. To promote public interest on textile-related research and education and to support training the Unit has been producing papers in journals and presenting communications in international and national seminars, as well as, technical manuals. 1.3 Main Achievements 2C2T has been involved worldwide in the development of textile and clothing science and technology, with interest in subjects that are more relevant to the industry’s competitiveness. In a broad sense, it can be referred that those subjects are related with Advanced Materials, Technical Textiles, Equipment Development, Quick Response Strategies and other emergent technologies. Therefore the goals are centered in the development of innovative solutions in strategic and emergent areas involving the textile chain: • Development of new materials /products. • Innovative and improved manufacturing processes, methods, equipments and integrated systems. • Development of supporting technologies to materials/product engineering. • Development of new design methodologies, management and product marketing. ensuring the utilization of the developed solutions through knowledge and technology transfer. In the field of materials/product innovation, the research projects are mainly oriented towards the design and development of functional/multifunctional textiles (smart textiles), reactive (bio-functional textiles), active (self-regulating textiles) and interactive (electronic textiles) applied to: • Protection, Safety, Occupational Health • Automotive • Construction • Health (Medical) • Social Inclusion In the area of innovative and flexible production processes, the research projects are currently focused in the knitting and sewing sectors, enzymatic processes, micro encapsulation, plasma and 3D preforms, concerning the development of equipments, processes and systems for monitoring and real-time process control devices to impart quality and productivity. In the supporting technologies area for product engineering the research projects are essentially oriented to the development of equipment to evaluate or improve materials/products quality and properties, as well as, to design and engineer new products. Concerning new management methodologies, design and marketing, the projects are mainly focused on methods and integrated systems for new and high added-value products design and on the conception of new market labels, innovative in terms of design, materials, production technologies and process management (design / production / distribution / retailing) . The great majority of projects is developed in collaborative partnerships with other UM research units, institutions and enterprises, involving national or international multidisciplinarity. This approach significantly contributed to develop synergies and stimulate research carried out using internal resources and/or external financing resulting in national and international funded projects. The activity of the unit can be quantified by the following indicators: 6 books and chapters of books, 53 publications in international journals, 5 publications in national journals, 104 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 7 communications in national conferences, 6 organization of seminars and conferences, 7 doctoral and 27 masters theses concluded, 31 doctoral and 40 master theses in progress, 6 patent, supported on 48 funded projects and other non funded projects, promoted by FCT funding. Reference must also be made for several cooperation protocols signed with companies, for technical support or product development. The Textile and Clothing Industries are in nature multidisciplinary involving multiple competences, concerning product, processes and equipment development, design, management and marketing, among others. Therefore research projects integrated multiple scientific and technological domains and research teams involve members from different research Units, namely with researchers from electronics, mechanics, materials, physics, chemistry and biology, from internal or external institutions, as can be seen in the list of projects and publications presented in this report. In order to promote cross disciplinary research, non formal meetings between members of distinct research centres were organized and encouraged. In this regard, some concrete actions were taken, namely through the funding that was allocated to preliminary research studies in subjects involving at least three different domains (In2Tec projects). Besides research, 2C2T promotes research training leading to technology and knowledge transfer across different domains through the participation and promotion of Master Courses. Also 2C2T members are collaborating in other Master Courses, namely on those promoted by School of Engineering. Another type of dissemination that is being followed is Industrial thesis made by first degree students. Relative to this strategy, cooperation protocol between the leading textile associations (ATP, Anivec) the Ordem dos Engenheiros (Portuguese engineer’s chamber) and the Portuguese Employment and Training Institute – IEFP, to promote the cooperation between the industry and university, towards sustainable competitiveness. In the period, 7 PhD Thesis and 27 MSc Thesis were produced, must of them in collaboration with other departments and with industry. 1.4 Dissemination Dissemination is a key factor to diffuse Unit activities and at the same time to promote excellence. The purposes of the outreach activities carried out by the research unit were: • Raise awareness of the research carried out • Inform the community • Promote projects results and engage other researchers and stakeholders The main target audiences were the scientific community, the media, the industry, the institution and government. The outreach activities carried out by the Unit comprised: -Presentation of the research works developed in well-known international and national conferences to share the achievements with experts in the field (104 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 7 communications in national conferences); - Publication in peer-reviewed journal articles to inform the scientific community of the achievements of the Unit research (53 publications in international journals, 5 publications in national journal); - Participation in technical events through posters, leaflets, brochures and prototype demonstrations to show the progress and developments achieved to a larger community, including stakeholders, - Organization of technical workshops and seminars to raise awareness and promote Unit research (6 organization of seminars and conferences); - Organization and participation on institution workshops to informe the internal scientific community on research progress - Public speakers, roundtable discussions to raise awareness of the importance of innovation in the textile and clothing sectors to the national and European economy - Articles in magazines, newspapers and TV programs to disseminate and promote the work to the public community - Institution and Unit website to disseminate the most relevant and updated information about Unit activities (www.uminho.pt, www.2c2t.uminho.pt) 2. RESEARCH GROUPS Reference Title RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1786 Textile Physics RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1787 Textile Chemistry RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1789 Management, Design and Marketing 2.1 Research Group Title: Textile Physics Research Group Title: Textile Physics Principal Investigator: Maria Elisabete Martins Paiva Monteiro Cabeço Silva Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering 2.1.1 Objectives The Textile Physics research group is a founding component of 2C2T whose objectives include: • Development of flexible and intelligent process control systems; • Development of new equipment to evaluate or improve materials/products quality and properties, as well as, to design and engineer new products; • Development and innovation of high-tech multifunctional textiles integrating new materials and processes. The major emphasis of the group has been on the development of technological solutions for practical problems of the Portuguese and European Textile Industries, together with process and product innovation to expand these industries to non-traditional markets. Established and newly developed devices for monitoring and real-time control are being used on the study of the dynamic behaviour and fault prediction of sewing and knitting processes. Similarly, developed textile support equipment is being used to design, improve and evaluate materials and products properties, performance and behaviour, under multiaxial stresses, and to establish performance standards for raw materials and yarn production based on the use of prediction and decision-support tools. More recently the group has been active in the development of textile-based products integrating electronic systems (e-textiles, i-textiles) for protection, safety (i-protect) and personal empowerment (i-vest) applications, textiles with improved functionality for O.R. theatres (medical textiles) and textiles and clothing for physiological comfort. Studies on sensory analysis of textiles are also being conducted to assess handle and predict total comfort properties. The group explores several research approaches ranging from fundamental to applied research with special emphasis on textile-related problems. 2.1.2 Main Achievements The Textile Physics group adopts a multidisciplinary approach in carrying out research work within the university and also in collaboration with foreign universities, research institutions and companies. The core-group involves 10 researchers working in the three above identified areas, 3 senior scientists and 7 junior scientists. This approach significantly contributed to develop synergies and stimulate research carried out using internal resources and/or external financing resulting in 16 national and international funded projects, which contributed to the following productivity indicators: 2 books and chapters of books, 16 publications in international journals, 5 publications in national journals, 34 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 5 communications in national conferences, 1 doctoral and 9 master theses concluded, 1 pos-doc supervision, 9 doctoral and 15 master theses in progress, 1 patent and 10 research grants. Dissemination of results through conference’s organization and the establishment of cooperation protocols involving research, knowledge and technology transfer with international and national organizations from the public and private sectors are other activities carried out by the group to promote excellence. In this regard we highlight the participation in the organization of the international conferences dedicated to applied textile research taking place in Tunisia and Mozambique and the cooperation protocols with a spanish technological research centre (Gaiker) in the area of conductive polymers, and in the area of process monitoring and control.with a chinese sewing machine company manufacturer (Zoje Machine Company, Lda) and two german institutions (Innomas and Steinbeis transferzentrum) and in the area of textile comfort a protocol with a French research laboratory (Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique Textile). To promote public interest on textile-related research and education and to support training the group has been producing papers in journals and presenting communications in international and national seminars, as well as, technical manuals. 2.1.3 Publications in peer review Journals Some examples: Almeida L.S; Vasconcelos, R. M ,- “Ensino Superior em Portugal : décadas de profundas exigências e mudanças”, Innovación Educativa, nº18,2008. ISSN 1130-8656). p23-34. C.Nogueira, M.E.Cabeço-Silva, L.Schacher, D.Adolphe - Sensory Expressions for Textile Materials Design, Journal of Sensory Studies Carvalho, V., Monteiro, J.L.; Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F, O, “Yarn evenness parameters evaluation: A new approach”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 78, Issue 2, p.119-127, February 2008. Carvalho, V., Belsey. M., Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F. O “ A Comparative Study Between Yarn Diameter and Yarn Mass Variation Measurement Systems Using Capacitive and Optical Sensors”, Indian Journal of Fibres & Textile Research, Vol. 33, June 2008, pp.119-125 Carvalho, V., Belsey. M., Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F. O, “Yarn Hairiness and Diameter Characterization Using a CMOS Line Array”, Measurement, Vol. 41, Issue 10, December 2008, pp.1077-1092. Carvalho, V.; Cardoso, P.; Belsey, M.; Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F. O. Soares, “Yarn Diameter Measurements Using Coherent Optical Signal Processing”, IEEE Sensors Journal, Vol. 8, Issue 11, November 2008, pp.1785-1793.. Carvalho, V.; Cardoso, P.; Belsey, M.; Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, O. F..-, “Yarn Hairiness Parameterization Using a Coherent Signal Processing Technique”, Sensors and Actuators A., Volume 142, Issue 1, p.217-224, March 2008. H. Carvalho, A.M.Rocha, J. L. Monteiro, Measurement and analysis of needle penetration forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine, Journal of the Textile Institute, Julho 2008 L. Jiménez , A.M. Rocha, I. Aranberria, J.A. Covas , A.P. Catarino, Electrically Conductive Monofilaments For Smart Textiles, Advances in Science and Technology Vol. 60 (2008) pp 5863 Lima, M; Vasconcelos, R.; Abreu, M. J.; Silva, M. E. - Comparative Study of Friction Coefficient in Nonwovens applied for Non Active Medical Devices, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, ISSN: 13003356. M.A.F. Carvalho, F.N. Ferreira, H. Carvalho, J.G. Rocha, L.B. Martins, J.A. Santos, Monitoring and control system of discomfort in disability, bed rest people and surgical patients, Advances in Science and Technology Vol. 60 (2008) pp 164-169, Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland, Setembro 2008 P. Alpuim; P.F. Rocha; S. Lanceros-Mendez; E.S. Marins; I.G. Trindade, J.G. Rocha, M.A.F. Carvalho - Ultra-Sensitive Shape Sensor Test Structures Based On Piezo-Resistive Doped Nanocrystalline Silicon. Vacuum Pamuk, O., Abreu, M. J., Ondogan, Z. – An Investigation on the Comfort Properties for different Disposable Surgical Gowns by using a Thermal Manikin, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, p. 236-239, vol.18 (3), 2008, ISSN: 1300-3356. Pamuk, O., Abreu, M. J., Ondogan, Z. – Tensile Strength Properties of Woven and Nonwoven Surgical Gown Fabrics, Tekstil. Journal of Textile and Clothing Technology, Publisher: Croatian Association of Textile Engineers. ISSN 0492-5882 Pamuk, O., Ondogan, Z., Abreu, M. J. – The Thermal Comfort Properties of Reusable and Disposable Surgical Gown Fabrics, Tekstilec (Journal for Textile and Clothing Technology, Design and Marketing). ISSN: 0351-3386 V. Carvalho, P. Cardoso, M. Belsley, R. Vasconcelos, F. O. Soares, “Yarn Hairiness Characterization Using Two Orthogonal Directions”, IEEE Transactions on Instrumentation and Measurement (2008) 2.1.4 Other International publications Some examples: A. C. Broega, M. E. Cabeço Silva - The Comfort Performance of Wool Light Fabrics Based on Subjective, Objective Evaluation, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX - World Textile Conf AUTEX2008, Biella, Italy, Jun 2008 C. Nogueira, M.E. Cabeço-Silva, L.Schacher, D. Adolphe - Structured or Non-structured scale: what is the best Scale for the Human Sensation Measurement?, 3 CIRAT- Int Conf of Applied Research in Textile, Tunisia, Nov, 2008 Carvalho, M.A.F.; Ferreira, F.B.N.; Carvalho, H.; Rocha, J.G.; Martins, L.B.; Santos, J.A. Monitoring and Control System of Discomfort in Disability, Bed Rest People and Surgical Patients, CIMTEC 2008, Acireale, Sicily, Italy, June, 2008 Carvalho, V., Besley, M, Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F, O, , Automatic Yarn Characterization System, 7th lEEE Conf on Sensors, Leece, Italy, Oct 2008, pp780-783 H. Carvalho, Luís F. Silva,J.Monteiro, A.Rocha, Parameter Monitoring and Control in industrial sewing machines - IEEE Int Conf Industrial Engineering, CD-ROM, ISBN 978-1-4244-1706-3, IEEE, Chengdu, China, ABril 2008 Hattum-Janssen, N.; Vasconcelos, R. M..- The Role of the Tutor in Project-Led Education: The Development of an Evaluation Instrument, INTERTECH2008, Março 2008. Peruíbe,Brasil pp 2731. Heinrich, D.P.; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Barroso, M.F. - Ergonomics, Anthropometrics and Clothing Fit – Discussion and analysis of impact upon comfort and quality. CIM 2008 – Congresso Int de Moda, Madrid, Espanha, Out 2008. J.G. Rocha, H. Carvalho, F.M. Duarte, M. A. F. Carvalho, V.M. Moreira, System Providing Discomfort Monitoring for People in Wheelchairs, IEEE Int Symposium on Industrial Electronics, pp 961-966, Cambridge, UK, Julho 2008 L. Jiménez , A.M. Rocha, I. Aranberria, J.A. Covas , A.P. Catarino, Electrically Conductive Monofilaments for Smart Textiles, 3rd Int Conf. “Smart Materials, Structures and Systems”, Sicily, Italy, June, 2008. L. Schacher, D. Adolphe, M. J. Abreu – Functional Textile :Medical Application. Evaluation AERES du Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique Textiles, UMR 7189 CNRS-UHA,Mulhouse, França, Fev. 2008. M. J. Abreu - Validation of the thermal comfort behaviour of active wear through thermal manikin measurements. 2nd International Scientific Conference 'Textiles of the Future, Kortrijk, Bélgica, Nov. Edição em CD. M. J. Abreu, M. E. Silva – Simulation of Real Time Ageing using Artificial Ageing of Medical Devices. 5º Congresso Luso-Moçambicano de Engenharia, Moçambique, Set 2008. M.J. Abreu, C. Nogueira, M. E. Cabeço Silva, L. Schacher, D. Adolphe – Measurement of Tactile Sensation using the human being as instruments. Fiber Society 2008 Spring Conference. Mulhouse, França, Maio 2008. Proceedings p. 153-154. Rocha, J.G.; Carvalho, H.; Duarte, F.M.; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Moreira, V.M. - System Providing Discomfort Monitoring for People in Wheelchairs. IEEE Int Symposium on Industrial Electronics. ISIE’08 – Canbridge, UK, July, 2008. Taciana V.Viana, H. Carvalho, Tecnologia digital para o comércio eletrônico do vestuário Digital Technology for fashion e-commerce, (P&D Design 2008), São Paulo, Brasil, Out 2008 Vasconcelos, R. M.; Monteiro, S.- Observatory of Graduates in Engineering and Technologies of the University of Minho INTERTECH2008, Março 2008. Peruíbe,Brasil– ISBN 85-89120-55-4, pp 6-8. Woltz, S.T.; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Vestuário inclusivo: a adaptação do vestuário às pessoas com necessidades especiais. 4º Colóquio de Moda, Novo Hamburgo, Brasil, Out 2008 2.1.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis PhD Thesis Ana Cristina da Luz Broega, “Contribuição para a Definições de Padrões de Conforto de Tecido Finos de Lã”, Tese de Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil - ramo de especialização em Física Têxtil, Universidade do Minho, 21 de Janeiro de 2008. Sistema Automático de Caracterização do Fio Têxtil, Julho 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Industrial, Doutorando: Vítor Hugo Mendes da Costa Carvalho, Orientador: Filomena Soares, Co-orientação: RosaVasconcelos MSc Thesis Contribuição para a Medição Objectiva e Subjectiva do Toque em Malhas de Trama, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Maria Joana Beltrão Franco Martins, Orientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos Desenvolvimento de duas Aplicações de Controlo da Velocidade de um Motor de Corrente Contínua: Industrial e Pedagógica. Setembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Electrónica Industrial e Computadores, Mestrando: Vítor Manuel Oliveira da Silva, Coorientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos Estudo da Costurabilidade com Fios Condutores, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Dezembro de 2008, Mestrando: António Manuel Almeida, Orientador: Fernando Nunes Ferreira. Estudo da Influência das Variáveis de Processo nas Propriedades Mecânicas e Térmicas de Não-Tecidos Agulhados para Vestuário, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Marta Fernandes, Orientador: Ana Maria Rocha Influência da Tecnologia de Fiação Compact fibra longa, no desempenho de fios funcionais, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Joaquim Fernando Marques dos Santos Leal, Orientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos Novos paradigmas para a gestão de informação na indústria de confecção, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Marta Alexandra Peixoto Ferreira, Orientador: Hélder Manuel Teixeira Carvalho Estudo de obstáculos na ampliação do Mercado da Moda através da Web, Fevereiro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Taciana Viana, Orientador: Hélder Carvalho. Optimização do Vestuário Cirúrgico através do Estudo Termofisiológico, Novembro de 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Iara Mesquita da Silva Braga, Orientador: Maria José Marques Abreu. 2.1.6 Organization of conferences Cabeço Silva, M. E. - "7th International Thermal Manikin Modeling Meeting", Coimbra, Portugal, Setembro, 2008 Elisabete Cabeço Silva, M. E. - 3 CIRAT- International Conference of Applied Research in Textile, Sousse, Tunisia, November, 2008 Maria José Abreu e Maria Elisabete Cabeço Silva - Dispositivos Médicos e Materiais de Cuidados de Saúde, Simpósia Clme'2008, Maputo, Moçambique, Setembro, 2008 Maria José Abreu, Colaboração na Exposição Tecnologia com Arte- 2º Edição. Museu Alberto Sampaio 2.1.7 Industry contract research CMR Sul - Centro de Medicina e Reabilitação do Sul/GPSaúde - Sociedade Gestora do CMRSul, S.A. - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso. CMRA - Centro de Medicina e Reabilitação de Alcoitão - Unidade de Fisioterapia, Área de Músculo-Esqueléticas - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso Fareleiros, SA, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação FIBERSENSING, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação HSM - Hospital de São Marcos - Centro de Reabilitação Física - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso. Industrias Somelos, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação ISAVE - Instituto Superior de Saúde do Alto Ave - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso LACATONI, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação Rafael Freitas (Estilista) - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso. Woolmark Company - cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação Zoje Sewing Machine Co. Lda (China), Protocolo de cooperação no âmbito da investigação e desenvolvimento de máquinas de costura. 2.1.8 Internationalization The Textile Physics group is involved with the most important universities, such as Autex (Association of European Textile Universities), centres of research and companies in multidisciplinary teams, in a national or international basis, guarantying the dissemination of projects results within academic and industrial communities. Contracts within cooperation protocols with individuals and companies provide shared access to technologies, entries into proprietary research and a rapid response team for national and international initiatives. The participation in international networks of experts and research institutions, such as the European Technology European Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing, dealing with intelligent and smart textiles, standardisation, new material and product development opened new innovation opportunities that consolidated the involvement in Research Projects at European level. The textile physics team is also active in research and scholarly collaboration with international PhD students, graduate student mobility, faculty-staff programs for research, international conferences and workshops, international PhD and MSc juries, joint publications, joint degree programs, invited lectures, PhDs co-supervision, reviewer in international journals and conferences and participates in the evaluation and technical follow-up of textile based research projects for the European Commission. 2.1.9 Other publications National C. Nogueira, M.E. Silva, M. J. Abreu, L. Schacher – Avaliação Sensorial de Produtos Têxteis. Jornal de Ciências Cognitivas. Sociedade Portuguesa de Ciências Cognitivas. Janeiro 2008. ISSN 1646-365X H.Carvalho, Elisa Machado, Os Pontos de Costura – As classes 100 e 200 (Parte 2), Revista Moda e Confecção, pp 38-42, Edição nrº 45, Julho de 2008, Editora Publindustria H.Carvalho, Elisa Machado, Os Pontos de Costura – As classes 300 e 400 (Parte 3), Revista Moda e Confecção, pp 20-24, Edição nrº 46, Outubro de 2008, Editora Publindustria H.Carvalho, Elisa Machado, Os Pontos de Costura – Classificação e Características (Parte 1), Revista Moda e Confecção, pp 24-26, Edição nrº 44, Abril de 2008, Editora Publindustria P. Mendonça, H. Carvalho, Optimização da Geometria de Sobreadores de Lâminas Fixas, Revista Casas e Negócios, pp 44-45, Edição nrº25, braga, Abril de 2008, Editora JPJ Alpuim, P; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Trindade, I; Marins, E.; Rocha, P.F.; Rocha, J.G.; Lanceros-Mendez, S. - Strain-sensors arrays for e-textiles and health care. Technology Open Day 2008: Health and Food Technologies. Braga - Campus de Gualtar. 6 de junho de 2008. (Comunicação convidada). Carvalho, M.A.F.; Santos, J.A.; Rocha, J.G.; Duarte, F.M.; Moreira, V.M. - Sense4me Monitoring system of discomfort in disability, bed rest people and surgical patients. Technology Open Day 2008: Health and Food Technologies. Braga - Campus de Gualtar. 6 de Junho de 2008. (Comunicação convidada). Carvalho, M.A.F.; Woltz, S.T.; Oliveira, A.L.G. - Vestuário - Adaptação à Limitação Funcional. II Jornadas de Fisioterapia Músculo-Esquelética, Centro de Medicina de Reabilitação de Alcoitão, 9 e 10 de Maio de 2008 (Comunicação convidada). (Texto completo). M. J. Abreu, A. Coelho – O Papel dos Dispositivos Médicos Não Activos na Saúde Ocupacional dos seus Utilizadores. 7º Congresso Nacional de Saúde Ocupacional. Póvoa de Varzim, Portugal, 13 a 15 de Maio de 2008., http://www.spso.pt/comunicalivres.php M. J. Abreu; R. Vasconcelos - Ensino por Projecto: Desenho metodológico. Seminário “O Processo de Bolonha na Universidade do Minho. Orientações e Práticas”. Braga, 26 de Maio de 2008. Edição em CD. 2.1.10 Government/Organization contract research Análise Sensorial de Produtos Têxteis, PESSOA 141710PC, 2 anos, 4500 €, ENSISA/UHA Aprendizagem Centrada no Aluno à luz do processo de Bolonha: a Inclusão integrada das competências Transversais, Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian , (92772), 60000 BIOSWIM - Sistema de Interface Corporal Integrada em Vestuário para Monitorização de Sinais, PTDC EEA-ELC/70803/06, 3 anos, 98381 €, FCDEF UP, INESC-Porto ETP@Textile&Clothing.pt, POCI 2010 Med.V./021/06 , 18 meses, 40000 €, Citeve Factores de Abandono e de Insucesso Escolar na Universidade do Minho, POCI 2010, Medida IV.1, Acção IV.1.2, 38.321,12 € FRICTORQ, AI-POCTI -I&D, 93881 € INTELTEX – Intelligent Multi-reactive textiles integrating nano-filler based CPC fibers, IPNMP2CT-2006-026626, 4 anos, 365 000 €, Nanocyl, Eurodye, Minerva, Protensive, Multitel, Arlen, Tissa, Edana, Alma, ENSAIT, TUL, UBS, QMUL, IPFDD, Peratech ITT – Innovative Textile Transfer, Leonardo da Vinci, 2 anos, 30 000 €, Univ. Leeds, Klitra, TEI Piraeus, Riga Univ, Iasi Univ, Univ. Maribor Playvest, QREN, 2 anos, 190 000 € Promoção do Sucesso Escolar e Combate ao Abandono e ao Insucesso na Universidade do Minho POCI 2010, Medida IV.1, Acção IV.1., 120.839,45 € Realização de Fios Têxteis com Propriedades Piezoeléctricas, In2Tec, 2 anos, 10 000 € Rede de sensores de deformação para electro-têxteis e cuidados de saúde, PTDC/CTM/66558/2006, 30 meses, 105 100 €, Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade do Porto, Dep.Física /Dep. Psicologia, UMinho Sense4me – Sistema de monitorização de desconforto/dor em deficientes físicos , IN2TEC, 24 meses, 10.000 €, Hospital São Marcos, APD-Associação Portuguesa de Deficientes Sense4me - Sistema de monitorização e controlo de desconforto em deficientes físicos, PTDC/SAU-BEB/68678/06, 36 meses, 146.603 €, Hospital São Marcos, APD-Associação Portuguesa de Deficientes Somelos, 3 meses, 13000 €, Somelos TREE- Teaching and Research in Engineering in Europe-Socrates, 36m, 574.376 € (global), TU Berlin; TU of Civil Eng., Bucharestt;AGH U. Sc. & Techn., Cracow; Politecnico (TU) of Torino 2.1.11 Future Objectives The future objectives of the Textile Physics research group rely mainly on the research areas previously defined that represent a medium-long term group strategy. In this context, the prioritization of the research areas was also defined and in the past was mainly focused on the development of flexible and intelligent process control systems and new equipment. In the short term, the group is mainly targeting the research challenge that is subjacent to the development and innovation of high–tech multifunctional textiles and the development of technologies with specially designed modifications for this new generation of textiles. This can be assessed by the on-going projects in which the group members are involved and in the publications that are being submitted/accepted. Internationalisation continues to be a goal, either through the consolidation of networks of experts and research institutions, either through the involvement in European standardisation institutions and in international committees. Industrial contracts within cooperation protocols with individuals and companies to promote technology and knowledge transfer, as well as, the establishment of a training international network in the area of High-Tech Textiles (a Master course started in 2007/08) are short-term goals of the group. The Textile Physics group enjoys effective and well-established mechanisms for knowledge and technology transfer to industry. The projects support graduate students that represent an important vehicle for knowledge transfer. By emphasizing team-based interdisciplinary research within the group, students are trained in a mode that is critically important to meeting the complex, fast-moving challenges of industry. New materials with switchable and adaptive properties, integration of microsystems in textiles and textile-based sensors, open a huge field for the development of new constructions which will be integrated in applications for technical and protective textiles. They will be developed for the use in medical/empowerment clothing, surgical textiles in operation theatre, protection and sports wear, clean room textiles and automotive textiles. The production of all these innovative materials and constructions will be reached with new and/or adapted processes in textile production industry. 2.2 Research Group Title: Textile Chemistry Research Group Title: Textile Chemistry Principal Investigator: JAIME ISIDORO NAYLOR DA ROCHA GOMES Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering 2.2.1 Objectives The Textile Chemistry Group is organized under the concept of integrated research work covering transversal fields of interest in the areas of textile polymers and textile processing. The major emphasis as been fundamental knowledge in textile related sciences and industrial applications, towards development of environmentally friendly finishing processes and functional products. The activity is highly internationalized through a collaborative effort with the most important worldwide universities, research centres, enterprises, individually or inside networks, connected with running projects or those concerning forthcoming goals. The participation of the Textile Chemistry Group in international networks of experts, research institutions dealing with intelligent and smart textiles and European standardisation concerning multifunctional textiles and functionalisation of textiles, opens wide chances to be on top of the wage in which concerns innovation opportunities. Three main research areas are active: Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials, Fibre Bioprocesses, Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials domain has been active in dye chemistry and adsorption (synthesis of new catalysts for degradation of dyes in effluents), controlled delivery of substances (liposomes and microcapsules), interactive textile materials (PCM-phase change materials) and active textiles (anti-bacterial textiles). In which concerns Fibre Bioprocesses area, intensive work has been produced regarding mechanisms of enzyme’s application in textile processing, namely by modification of natural and synthetic fibrous polymers. Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials concerns plasmatic surface treatments in order to radically change finishing processes and products, with high level of effects, , higher durability, lower costs and less products; electrochemical technologies, advanced oxidation processes and modification of membranes for wastewater treatments are contributions to sustainable solutions for textile industry pollution problems; development of new materials for reusable medical textiles with increased resistance to washing, drying, sterilisation has also been the aim of important developments. 2.2.2. Main Achievements Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials provided projects in innovative application of microcapsules in textile and footwear industry. 7 projects with and without external funding, concerning production and degradation of dyes, new methods for application of dyes and biofunctionalisation of textiles, are active. 2 publications in international journals and 7 communications in international congresses and conferences were achieved. Fibre Bioprocesses concerned 4 funded projects with international links with centres of knowledge in enzyme science regarding biological detergents, biological process on renewable materials, enzymatic treatment of wool, functionalisation of medical textiles, enzymatic processing of textiles with ultrasounds and enzymatic modification of synthetic fibres. 12 publications in international journals, 3 doctoral thesis concluded, 7 doctoral theses in progress and 2 patents are the most significant productivity indicators. Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials concerned 7 national and international funded projects, regarding plasmatic discharge in textile processing of cellulosic materials and industrial prototype, reusable medical textiles and advanced techniques for textile effluents treatment. 1 chapter of book, 4 articles in international journals, 14 communications in international conferences, 5 master theses concluded, 3 doctoral and 8 master theses in progress and 1 patent were the main productivity indicators. As global results of Textile Chemistry Group, 1 chapter of book, 18 articles in international journals, 21 communications in international conferences, 3 doctoral and 5 master theses concluded, 10 doctoral and 8 master theses in progress, 3 patents and 18 projects were produced. 2.2.3. Publications in peer review Journals Almeida L., co-autor do livro Implementação de sistemas integrados de gestão – Qualidade, Ambiente e Segurança, Ed Publindústria, Junho 2008, ISBN 978-972-8933-26-3, 158 p A Eberl, S Heumann, R Kotek, F Kaufmann, S Mitsche, A Cavaco-Paulo, GM Gübitz, enzymatic hydrolysis of ptt polymers and oligomers, Journal of Biotechnology, 2008, 135(1):45-51 Almeida L., Functionalisation of textiles - Future perspectives, artigo publicado a partir de 18 de Março de 2008 no portal www.fibre2fashion.com António Morão, M. T. Pessoa de Amorim, Ana Lopes, Isabel Escobar, João A. Queiroz, (2008) “Characterisation of ultrafiltration and nanofiltration membranes from rejections of neutral reference solutes using a model of asymmetric pores”Journal of Membrane Science, Volume 319, Issues 1-2, 1 July, Pages 64-75 Araújo, R., Cavaco- Paulo, A., Casal, M., Strategies towards the functionalization of subtilisin E from Bacillus subtilis for wool finishing applications, Engineering in Life Sciences, 2008, 8 (3), pp. 238-249 Carla Silva, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, biotransformations in synthetic fibres, Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 350-356 E Almansa, S Heumann, A Eberl, F Kaufmann, A Cavaco-Paulo, GM Gübitz, Surface hydrolysis of polyamide with a new polymidase from beauveria brongniartii, Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 371-377 E Almansa, S Heumann, A Eberl, G Fischer-Colbrie, L Martinkova, J Marek, A Cavaco-Paulo, GM Gübitz, nzymatic surface hydrolysis of pet enhances bonding in pvc coating, Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 365-370 FD Munteanu, P Ferreira, FJ Ruiz-Dueñas, AT Martínez, A Cavaco-Paulo, “Bioelectro chemical investigations of aryl-alcohol oxidase from pleurotus eryngii”, Journal of Electroanalytical Chemistry, 2008, 1-2(1):83-86 G.M. Guebitz, A Cavaco-Paulo, Enzymes go big: surface hydrolysis and functionalisation of synthetic polymers, Trends In Biotechnology, (2008); 26 (1):32-38 Graça Soares, Raquel Vieira, Jorge Santos, Pablo Pereira, Maria Costa Ferreira, Jaime Gomes Optimization of Application Procedure for Fixation of Monocationic Salt onto Cotton with Antibacterial Activity, Fibers and Polymers Jorge G. Santos, Graça M. B. Soares, Radim Hrdina, Ana M. F. Oliveira-Campos, Jaime I. N. R. Gomes. A study on the spectral changes of reactive textile dyes during dyeing processes and their implications on online control procedures. Coloration Technology Kim, S., López, C., Güebitz, G., Cavaco-Paulo, A Biological coloration of flax fabrics with flavonoids using laccase from Trametes hirsutA, Engineering in Life Sciences, 2008, 8 (3), pp. 324-330 López, C., Cavaco-Paulo, A. In-situ enzymatic generation of hydrogen peroxide for bleaching purposes, Engineering in Life Sciences 2008, 8 (3), pp. 315-323 N. Carneiro, A. Souto, F. Forster, F. Fernandes, F. Oliveira, P. Dias, “La Maquina de Plasma DBD en el Procesamiento a Mojado del Material Textil”, Revista de la Asociacion Espanola de Quimicos y Coloristas R Silva, C Little, H Ferreira, A Cavaco-Paulo, incorporation of peptides in phospholipid aggregates using ultrasound, Ultrasonics Sonochemistry, 2008, 15(6):1026-1032 Rita Araújo, Margarida Casal, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, application of enzymes for textile fibres processing, Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 332-349 Vasconcelos A, Freddi G, Cavaco-Paulo A., Biodegradable materials based on silk fibroin and keratin, Biomacromolecules. 2008 9(4):1299-305 2.2.4 Other International publications Some examples: A. Morão, J: Nunes, F.Sousa, M. T. Pessoa de Amorim, I. Escobar, J. Queiroz (2008) “Modeling of Supercoiled Plasmid DNA Transmission Through an Ultrafiltration Membrane” ICOM – Int Cong on Membranes and Membranes Processes, Julho 2008, Honolulu, Hawai Almeida L., Eco-Friendly Textile Production, CIRAT 3 - International Conference of Applied Research in Textile, Sousse, Tunísia, Nov 2008, conferência plenária convidada Carneiro, N.; Souto, A.P.; Fernandes, F.; Dias, P.; Oliveira, F. – A DBD Plasma Machine in Textile Wet Processing, Proceedings of 21st IFATCC International Congress, Barcelona, Espanha, May 2008 F. Oliveira, N. Carneiro, A. Souto, P. Dias, “Reactive Dyeing of Polyamide 6.6 by Plasmatic Modification”, CIRAT- III, Nov 2008, Sousse, Tunísia Jaime Rocha Gomes, Nanoparticles for controlled delivery of aqueous bleaching, antibacterial and therapeutical products, Nanotechnology 2008-Techconnect Summit, Boston Junho 1-5 Jorge Santos, Elisabete Oliveira, Jaime Rocha Gomes, The use of Liposomes in the exhaust dyeing of cotton 21Th IFATCC Congress, Barcelona, Espanha, Maio 2008 Laschuk, T.; Souto, A., P. - Comparative Research of two Smart Materials for application in Fashion Textile Design, Proceedings of 3rd International Nanotechnology on ‘Nanotechnology and Smart Textiles for Industry, Healthcare and Fashion’, The Royal Society London, March 2008 Laschuk, T.; Souto, A., P. - Design de moda com memória de forma. Anais do Congresso em Pesquisa e Design, P&D, São Paulo, Brasil, 8 a 11 de Outubro Laschuk, T.; Souto, A., P. - Incorporation of SMA Technologies in Fashion Underwear Apparel, Proceedings of Ambience 08, Boras, Sweden. 2008 Madalena A. Martins, Jorge G. Santos, Graça M.B. Soares ‐ Novel application of β‐Cyclodextrins in textile dyeing processes. Proceedings of 21Th IFATCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain, A33, pg 18. Ed. J.M. Canal, M. Marti, C. Canal, A. Navarro (2008). ISBN-13: 978-84-612-2641-2 Maria Teresa Pessoa de Amorim, Carlos Manuel Guimarães, Carlos Tavare Sandra Mariana Silva Marque (2008) Auto-lavagem de materiais têxteis pela aplicação de fotocatalisadores, XIX Cong LatinoAmericano de Química y Têxtil, Out 2008 Santiago do Chile, Chile Maria Teresa Pessoa de Amorim, Carlos Manuel Guimarães, Carlos Tavares, Sandra Mariana Silva Marques, Rosângela Bergamasc, António Morão (2008) “Modificação de membranas de acetato de celulose com dióxido de titânio para remoção de cor em efluentes da industria têxtil” XIX Cong LatinoAmericano de Química y Têxtil, Out 2008, Santiago do Chile, Chile N. Carneiro; A. Souto; F. Foster; F. Fernandes; P.Dias; F. Oliveira “A DBD Plasma Machine in Textile Wet Processing”, 21st IFATCC Int Cong, Maio 2008, Barcelona Oliveira, F.; Carneiro, N; Souto, A.; Dias, P.; Reactive Dyeing of Polyamide 6.6 by Plasmatic Modification, CIRAT - 3 Int Cong, Sousse, Nov2008 R. Bergamasco, L. C. Konradt Moraes, C. Regina Granhem Tavares, M Teresa Pessoa de Amorim (2008) “Filtration with Membranes as Complementation for the Process Coagulation/Floculation to Obtain Drinking Water” ICOM – Int Cong on Membranes and Membranes Processes ,Julho 2008 ,Honolulu, Hawai. Teresa Miranda, Rosa Pinheiro, Graça Soares, Jorge Santos, Different Strategies to Modify Cotton Properties. Proceedings of 21Th IFATCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain, CD-Rom proceedings, B34, pg 1-7. Ed. J.M. Canal, M. Marti, C. Canal, A. Navarro (2008). 2.2.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis completed PhD Thesis Enzymatic Treatment of Acrylic and Cellulose Acetate Fibres, Novembro 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutorando: Teresa Matama, Orientador: Artur Cavaco Enzymatic treatment of polyamide 6.6 fibres, Junho 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutorando: Carla Manuel Silva, Orientador: Artur Cavaco Molecular Biotechnology Approaches Towards the Optimization of Enzymes for Advanced Textile Applications, Setembro 2008, Doutoramento em Biologia, Doutorando: Rita Araujo, Orientador: Margarida Casal, Dept. Biologia, Co-orientador: Artur Cavaco MSc Thesis Desenvolvimento de Fibra Ópticas Termoplásticas para Incorporação em Têxteis, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia de Materiais, Dezembro de 2008, Mestranda: Diana Teresa Lamela Figueiredo, Orientadora: Olga Carneiro e Co-orientador António Pedro Garcia de Valadares Souto, Influência do Tratamento de Superfície Plasmático em Malhas Com Elastano, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado Engenharia Têxtil, Outubro 2008, Mestrando: Cristina Leite Rodrigues, Coorientação: André Catarino, Noémia Carneiro. Utilização de fibras inovadoras em vestuário desportivo, Dezembro de 2007, Ciclo de Estudos Integrados em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Mércia Maria Marques Rocha Mendes, Orientadora: Fátima Esteves Valorização de Argumentos Concorrenciais na Indústria Portuguesa dos Sectores Têxteis e do Vestuário, Outubro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado Engenharia Têxtil, Marco Paulo de Oliveira Leite, Orientadora: Noémia Carneiro Alteração Fotoquímica de Corantes e Branqueadores Ópticos por Irradiação Plasmática, Outubro 2008, Mestrado em Química, Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade do Porto, Mestranda: Sandra Ventura, Co-orientação: Noemia Carneiro, Ana Martins (Profª Dep. Química UP) Estudo do efeito do tratamento por laser de CO2 nas propriedades superficiais de fibras sintéticas, Junho de 2008, Mestrado em Química Têxtil, Mestranda: Helena Sofia Alonso, Orientadora: Fátima Esteves 2.2.6 Patents/propotypes Carneiro, N.; Souto, A.P.; Forster, F.; PRINZ, E. - Continuous and semi-continuous treatment of textile materials integrating CORONA discharge, patente em fase de internacionalização (2004)/patente nº PCT/PT2004/000008 (2004). Artur Cavaco, (WO 2008/012236) biocatalytic hydrophilization of polyolefines Artur Cavaco (WO 2007/136286) formulation containing neck domains and/or carbohydrate recognition domains for cosmetic aplications, namely for the treatment of keratin fibres like hair 2.2.7 Industry contract research Dystar, GmbH & Co - Protocolo de cooperação FIBERSENSING, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação Industrias Somelos, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação SOFTAL, GmbH - Protótipo industrial para aplicação da descarga CORONA na indústria têxtil 2.2.8 Government/Organization contract research Aitex – Centro Tecnologico Textil, 24 m, 20 000 €, Aitex (Valencia/Espanha) BIOSEAL – Biological detergents,VI FWP EU /PG FP6-514437, 36 m, 150.000 €, PG, TU-Graz, U.Louvain, U. Birmingham BIORENEW – Biological process on renewble materials, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-NMP-NI-4/02456, 36 m, 320.000 €, CIB-CSIC, Novozymes, KTH, ITQB, USussex , ULeiden, Ahlstrom Centro Ciência em Guimarães, POCI 2010 –FEDER, 12 m, Universidade do Minho, Câmara Municipal de Guimarães Design na inserção de componentes electrónicos - A estética e a funcionalidade, SIME I&DT/ ADI, 15 m, 46.700 €, Domingos Almeida, S.A Enz-UP - Treatment of wool with genetically modified proteases, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-SME-CO OP- 032877,24 m, 160.000 €, De Monfort University, TUGraz, TNO, U.Maribor, UPC, Hebrotex V., J. Weeker ETIORG I101, 12 m, 48.000 €, Etiorg INNOTEX - A tool box to catalyze continuous process INNOvation within the TEXtile manufacturing lines in Europe, SME COLL - CT - 2006 – 030312, 120.778,40 €, Centexbel LIDWINE-Multifuntionalized Medical Textiles for wound prevention, VI FWP FP6-2004-EU NMP/SME-NI-4/ 016333, 36 m, 480.000€, TNO, POL, NANO, COLOR, OSM, MMA, NAN, MUL, BOT, SOL, TOR Melhoria da uniformidade de materiais têxteis brancos e tingidos pré-tratados com descarga plasmática CORONA, POCI/CTM/58731/2004, 36 m, 70 000 €, Universidade da Beira Interior 2.2.9 Future Objectives The three domains of research acting in the frame of the Textile Chemistry Group are progressing towards innovation, internationalization, and technological transfer to industry, in fields as pollution reduction and control, surface modification, nanofinishing for functionalisation of textile materials, ecological dyeing of national woods without solvents, enzymatic applications for functionalisation purposes, proteins in fibres and cosmetics, study of non toxic antimicrobial products, improvement of bioactivity in textiles by natural compounds and control of reactive dyeing baths. The main objectives for the next three years period are focused into the following innovative aspects: Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials, • Use of environmental compatible technologies in textile industry for the prevention and solution of pollution problems, as electrochemical techniques for textile wastewater treatment and recycling (advanced oxidation process application to electrochemical degradation of dyes) • Application of plasmatic treatments for surface modification in order to improve nanotechnology potential for the functionalisation of textile materials. • Synthesis and application of conducting polymers in textiles by means of electrochemical techniques leading to nanoparticles and nanofibers formation. • Study of self-cleaning properties in textiles, using photochemical behaviour of titanium dioxide. • Development of an ecological method for uniform penetration of wood by direct dyes Fibre Bioprocesses, • Optimization of use of biotechnology in textile processing, modification and finishing, namely regarding enzymatic functionalisation of textile materials • Applications of biotechnology on cosmetic sector Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials • Development of medical and therapeutic textiles, by promoting interactivity, natural bioactivity and the use of non-toxic antimicrobial agents • Study of the effect of fibre surface functionalization on the dyeing processes by continuous monitorization of dyeing baths (using prototype) • Development of microcapsules for the controlled release of wellness products (hydrating, healing, vitamins, fragrances) with biocompatible shell walls • Developments of functional nanoparticles and their application to textile materials The promotion, protection and development of prototypes and patented machines and processes regarding industrial application is looked as a key point for innovation in worlwide textile industry, achieving a straight collaboration between researchers in 2C2T and industry. 2.2.10 Funding, source, dates Aitex – Centro Tecnologico Textil, 24 m, 20 000 € BIOSEAL – Biological detergents, VI FWP EU /PG FP6-514437, 36 m, 150.000 €, BIORENEW – Biological process on renewble materials, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-NMP-NI-4/02456, 36 m, 320.000 €, Design na inserção de componentes electrónicos - A estética e a funcionalidade, SIME I&DT/ ADI, 15 m, 46.700 €, Enz-UP - Treatment of wool with genetically modified proteases, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-SME-CO OP- 032877,24 m, 160.000 €, INNOTEX - A tool box to catalyze continuous process INNOvation within the TEXtile manufacturing lines in Europe, SME COLL - CT - 2006 – 030312, 120.778,40 €, LIDWINE-Multifuntionalized Medical Textiles for wound prevention, VI FWP FP6-2004-EU NMP/SME-NI-4/ 016333, 36 m, 480.000€, 2.3 Research Group Title: Management, Design and Marketing Research Group Title: Management, Design and Marketing Principal Investigator: Mário Duarte de Araújo Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering 2.3.1 Objectives The group has been undertaking research in the design and marketing of fiber based products for a variety of applications. The core theme concerns the use of fibers and fibrous structures as engineering materials. The main applications have been in concrete reinforcement, textile reinforced composites for industrial applications especially transport systems, the fashion business and high performance clothing for hygiene, health care and well-being, sports and protection. The problems are dealt with in the framework of a total product design approach where team work is encouraged and a variety of competences from other research groups may be integrated,. The design of new products is seen in a business context and well integrated in the marketing strategy. These competences may concern visual communication (colour, pattern, style, shape, etc.), tactile communication (handle +) and functionalization leading to performance and comfort (properties of finished fibres & structures (2D/ 3D): strength, stiffness, elastic recovery, toughness, permeability, conductivity, stability, etc.), depending on the applications envisaged. In order to meet a particular requirement, market and emerging technologies analyses is performed (exploratory generation of ideas) in order to develop a specification, a concept, a detailed design and a prototype; then the prototype is tested to evaluate its total performance in meeting the requirement. CAD systems and simulation (ex. FEA) are used for design and a fibrous materials prototyping unit is used to manufacture and test the product. According to this methodology some of the ongoing projects include braided structures for concrete reinforcement, 3D non-woven structures for a variety of industrial applications, patchwork multifunctional structures for high performance sportswear and underwear, exploitation of the use of emerging new fibres and finishings and new approaches to product design. 2.3.2 Main Achievements The group has established a worldwide reputation in some of these domains, namely in areas such as modeling and simulation, 3D shaped preforms for composites, the reinforcement of concrete with slender braded reinforced composite elements, the use of microencapsulated pigments for energy saving in green houses and roofs, active outdoors for advertising, new product design methodologies for customization and others. The group is very international and it includes researchers from a variety of nationalities. The patents taken, the invited lectures in conferences and the invitations to write chapters of international books are significant signals. Several research projects are being undertaken with funding from the Portuguese government, the European Commission and directly by companies. These research projects are leading to important results that are being published in scientific journals and presented at top level international conferences. Various prototypes have been produced and patents are pending. As many projects are undertaken with companies, there is a great involvement of the researchers with the companies, which puts research results to use in product development. 2.3.3 Publications in peer review Journals Araújo; M., Neves; M., Neves; J. - Impacto da Globalização e do Multiculturalismo no Design de Moda Cap livro “Design de Moda- olhares diversos”, Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, São Paulo, Brasil. Neves; M., Jobim; G. - A Pesquisa de Tendências em Design de Moda: Ênfase na Rede de Informação. Cap livro “Design de Moda- olhares diversos”, Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, São Paulo, Brasil. R. Fangueiro, C. Pereira, M. Araújo, (2008) “Polyesters and Polyamides“, Chapter 17 Applications of Polyesters and Polyamides in Civil Engineering, Woodhead Publishing, lda, ISBN 978-1-84569-298-8. A. Cardoso, M. de Araujo and E. Coquet, Modeling Children’s Choice Decisions of Clothing, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2008, Vol.12 , Nº3 , P. 425-428 Araguacy Filgueiras, Raul Fangueiro and Nathália Raphaelli, The Role of Fibres and Yarns in the Design of Textiles for Sport Activities, Revista de Estudos em Design, 15.1, Brasil 2008. Cristiana G. Pereira, Raul Fangueiro, Said Jalali, Mário de Araujo, Paula Marques, Braided Reinforced Composite Rods for Concrete Internal Reinforcement, Mechanics of Composite Materials, vol. 44, nº3, 2008, pp 221-230. Fangueiro R et al., Development of fibrous preforms for FRP pipe connections, Compos Sci Technol (2008), doi:10.1016/j.compscitech.2008.09.020 M. de Araujo, R. Fangueiro and F. Soutinho, Improving the Stiffness of Uni-directinally Oriented Weft-Knitted Structures for Polymer Matrix Composite Reinforcement, Journal of Textile Institute N. Padaki, R. Alagirusamy, B. L. Deopura and R. Fangueiro, Compression and Permeability Properties of Multiaxial Warp-knit Preforms, The Journal of The Textile Institute, vol 99, nº 4, 2008, pp287-294. Naveen V Padaki, R Alagirusamy, B L Deopura, B S Sugun & Raul Fangueiro, Low velocity impact behaviour of textile reinforced composites, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol. 33, June 2008, pp. 189-202. S. Chen, X. Ding, R. Fangueiro, H. Yi and J. Ni, Behaviour of Membrane Construction Materials under Bi-axial Loading, Materials Science Forum, Vols 587-588, Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland, 2008, pp 662-666. S. Mukhopadhyay and R. Fangueiro, “Effect of aging on tensile and thermal properties of fibers extracted from pseudostem of banana (Musa sepientum) plant", Journal Fibers and Polymers S. Mukhopadhyay, R. Fangueiro and V. Shivankar, “Variability of Tensile Properties of Fibers from Pseudostem of Banana Plant”, Textile Research Journal S. Mukhopadhyay, R. Fangueiro, Y. Arpac and U. Senturk, “Banana Fiber – Variability and Fracture Behaviour”, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, Volume 3, Issue 2, 2008, Shouhui Chen Xin Ding, Raul Fangueiro and Honglei Yi4, Tensile performance and crack propagation of coated woven fabrics under multi-axial loads, Polymer Testing Journal Shouhui Chen, Xin Ding, Raul Fangueiro, Honglei Yi, Jing Ni, Tensile behavior of PVC-coated woven membrane materials under uni- and bi-axial loads, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Volume 107, Issue 3, Pages 2038-2044, 5 February 2008. Online ISSN: 1097-4628 Yixi Luo, Hong Hu and Raul Fangueiro, Tensile and tearing properties of PVC coated Biaxial Warp knitted fabrics under biaxial loads” Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, vol.33, June 2008, pp. 146-150. 2.3.4 Other International publications Some examples: Cunha, J.; Neves, M.; Arezes, P.; Teixeira, S.; Development of a Lining for the Thermal Comfort of Trekking Boots, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX Conference – AUTEX2008, Cittá Studio, Biella, Italy, 24-26 de Junho, 2008. Cunha, J.; Picoli, J.; Laschuk, T.; Multifunctional Baby Carrier Dress, 4th International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference – Magic world of textiles, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 2008, pg. 548553, ISBN: 978-953-7105-26-6. Filgueiras, A, Fangueiro, R & Marques, CT, Design total das T-shirts no futebol profissional (Total design for the soccer team T-shirts, 4º Congresso Internacional de Pesquisa em Design, 11-13/Out, Rio de Janeiro, 2008 Filipe Soutinho, Raul Fangueiro, P. Gonçalves and Carla Freitas, Development of New Functional Yarns Based on Wool Fibers, Futurotextiel08 Conference, Belgium, 13th -15th November, 2008. Gonilho Pereira, C., Fangueiro, R., Said Jalali M. Araújo, Pina Marques, P., Braided Composite Rods for Civil Engineering Applications, 5º Congresso Luso-Moçambicano de Engenharia, Maputo, 2-4 Setembro 2008. Laschuk, T.; Picoli, J.; Cunha, J.; Conceptual Baby Carrier Dress, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX Conference – AUTEX2008, Cittá Studio, Biella, Italy, 24-26 de Junho, 2008. Mario de Araujo, As Inovações na Indústria Têxtil, 1º Simpósio de Inovação Tecnológica, SENAI/CETIQT, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil, 1 Out. 2008 (invited paper) Matos, A.L.B.; Santos, C.M.S.; Silva, M.L.; Cunha, J.; Fashion Clothing for Disabled Persons, Proceedings of the CIM 2008, 1st International Congress of Fashion, Madrid, Spain, 22-24 de Outubro, 2008, ISBN-13: 978-84-612-7235-8 Naveen Padaki, B L Deopura, R. Alagirusamy and R. Fangueiro, Multilayer Interlocked 3D Woven Structures – Fabric Construction and Properties, 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics and their Applications, Manchester, UK, 10-11 April, 2008. Neves M.; Neves J. – The Finishing and Structure Influence on the Ultraviolet Protection Factor of Biodegradable Fibres. Proceedings da Progress 2008 International Conference, Universidade de Ivanovo, Rússia, 27-30 Maio, 2008. ISBN 978-5-88954-284-1 e ISBN 978-5-88954-286-5. Neves, M.; Arezes, P.; Teixeira, S.; Leão, C. - Desenvolvimento de Calçado Termicamente Confortável, Proceedings of the International Symposium on Occupational Safety and Hygiene - SHO2008, pp.207-218, ISBN978-972-99504-4-5. Neves, M.; Silva, C. - The Design and the Education – The teaching of mathematics through the use of games, 4th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference - Magic World of Textiles, Dubrovnik, Croácia, Outubro 2008. Paula Pina Marques, Raul Fangueiro and C. Gonilho Pereira, Concrete Reinforced By Directionally Oriented Fibrous Structures, Autex Conference 2008, Biella, Italy, 24-26 June, 2008. Pedro Gonçalves, R. Fangueiro, H. Soutinho And M. Araújo, Composite Materials Reinforced By Randomly Oriented Fibers, Autex Conference 2008, Biella, Italy, 24-26 June, 2008. Picoli, J. & Guedes, M.G., Coolhunter: its methods of work, International Conference of Applied Research in Textile, CIRAT-3, Tunisia, 2008, R. Fangueiro, P. Nunes, F. Soutinho And M. De Araújo, Design of 3D Weft-Knitted Fibrous Preforms For FRP Tube Connexions, 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics and their Applications, Manchester, UK, 10-11 April, 2008. 2.3.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis completed PhD Thesis A Marca Corporativa: Processo de Construção da Estrutura de Identidade da Marca e seu Impacto no Desempenho da Empresa, Março 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutorando: Maria José Sousa dos Santos, Orientador: Mário de Araújo, Co-orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes. Comunicação Integrada de Colecções de Produtos de Moda, Junho 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutorando: Paula Cristina Soares, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes. Design Total de Malhas Multifuncionais para Aplicação em Vestuário Desportivo, Dezembro 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutoranda: Araguacy Filgueiras, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro. MSc Thesis A Importância da Engenharia no Desenvolvimento Estratégico e Actividades de I&D: Estudo de um caso prático, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Maio 2007, Mestranda: Rosário Brandão Marques, Orientador: Joana Cunha. Caracterização e desenvolvimento de revestimento com fibras funcionais para ortóteses para os membros inferiores, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Dezembro 2008, Mestrando: Joaquim Jorge Peixoto, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro. Diferenciação de Marcas de Vestuário no Mercado Nacional, Dezembro 2007, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: João Pedro Sousa Castilho, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes Estudo das propriedades mecânicas de materiais compósitos reforçados por não-tecidos, Fevereiro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Pedro Gonçalves, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro Influência da Tecnologia de Fiação Compact fibra longa, no desempenho de fios funcionais, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Joaquim Fernando Marques dos Santos Leal, Orientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos Os Têxteis no Contexto dos Brinquedos Educativos na Primeira Infância (0-3 anos). Funcionalidade e Segurança, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Sónia Patrícia Santos da Silva, Orientadora: Joana Cunha. A Intervenção do Design no Artesanato: aplicação aos produtos do IMA (Instituto Monsenhor Airosa), Fevereiro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: Ângela Sá Ferreira, Orientador: Maria Manuela Neves, Jean Yves Durand. A Tecnologia Multimédia como Diferencial Competitivo das Micro e Pequenas Organizações Empresariais em Moda, Dezembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: Adriana Leiria Barreto Matos, Orientador: Joana Cunha. Coolhunting: Práticas e Metodologias, Dezembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Júlia Isoppo Picoli, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes Desenvolvimento de Malhas Multifuncionais para aplicações técnicas, Novembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: Jefferson Mendes, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro. Marketing em Moda, Dezembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Sabrina Duarte Leães, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes Multilook: Vestuário Multifuncional. Metodologias de criação em Design, Setembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Rita Aguiar, Orientadora: Joana Cunha. Sistema de Identificação da Cor para Indivíduos Daltónicos – Aplicação aos Produtos de Vestuário, Outubro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: José Miguel Neiva Santos, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes. Study on Waste Fibre Reinforced Ecocomposites, Julho 2008, E-Team Master Course, Mestranda: Anna Lundhal, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro. 2.3.6 Patents/propotypes Raul Fangueiro, Celso Carrilho, Juliana Luiz, Paula Marques, Prótese Vascular em Estrutura Têxtil Entrançada com Ondulações e Respectivo Processo de Produção, pedido de patente nº 104067. Graça Guedes, João Sena Esteves, H.Carvalho, Pasta Solar, Pedido de Registo de Desenho ou Modelo n.º 973, publicado no Boletim da Propriedade Industrial n.º 78/2008 (editado em 18/04/2008), registo provisório concedido em 27/06/2008, Nº 973 Neves J., Mesquita F. - Submetido o pedido de patente relativo a "Cartazes Publicitários de Rua Interactivos com Pigmentos Camaleónicos microencapsulados por estamparia digital ". Número de pedido: 103 928. Data de depósito: 14 de Janeiro de 2008. 2.3.7 Organization of conferences Raul Fangueiro, CLME08, Conferência Luso-Moçambicana de Engenharia, Simpósio Materiais Fibrosos, 2-4 Setembro de 2008, Maputo, Moçambique Raul Fangueiro, Workshop “Inovação Empresarial”, Universidade do Minho, 27 de Fevereiro 2008 2.3.8 Industry contract research Desenvolvimento de artigos seamless multifuncionais para a área da saúde e bem-estar, QREN, 24 m, 110000 €, Sonicarla Desenvolvimento de Estruturas Sandwich para reforço de compósitos, QREN, 24 m, 125000 €, Castros e Marques Desenvolvimento de novos fios à base de lã para aplicações inovadoras, SIME, 24 m, 125000 €, FDG Development and characterization of needle-punched non-wovens, Groz-Beckert, 24 m, 155000 €, Groz Beckert CIDAUT- cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação. CIVIBRAL - cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação. JUZO, cooperação no âmbito do projecto de doutoramento LACATONI, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação Malhas Sonicarla, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação MOTAENGIL, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação Outrosmercadus, Lda, no âmbito do Mestrado em Comunicação de Moda RECET, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação VIMAPLÁS, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação Desenvolvimento de artigos seamless multifuncionais para a área da saúde e bem-estar, QREN, 24 m, 110000 €, Sonicarla Desenvolvimento de elementos estruturais entrançados em material compósito para reforço e monitorização do betão, POCTI CTM/60856/04, 36 m, 76000 € Desenvolvimento de Estruturas Sandwich para reforço de compósitos, QREN, 24 m, 125000 €, Castros e Marques Desenvolvimento de novos fios à base de lã para aplicações inovadoras, SIME, 24 m, 125000 €, FDG Development and characterization of needle-punched non-wovens, Groz-Beckert, 24 m, 155000 €, Groz Beckert Development of textile/apparel oriented research/training co-operation network between Europe and Asia by exchanging young teachers and postgraduate students, IN/ASIA-LINK/002 (82158), 48 m, 400000 €, ENSAIT (França), Univ. Minho, IIT (Índia), DongHua (China) Mapeamento e estudo de fibras de espécies vegetais com empregabilidade têxtil, CYTED, 36 m, 140 000 €, Universidade de S. Paulo, Univ. de Buenos Aires, U.P.Catalunha Modelo de Conforto Termico Aplicado ao Projecto de Vestuário, POCTIEME/62786/04 , 36 m, 20 000 €, DPS ; DEM 2.3.9 Future Objectives The objectives of the group are the development of research activities in multidisciplinary domains leading to new interdisciplinary areas, such as: •Dermo materials and structures leading to skin maintenance, repair & enhancement; •Advanced fibrous materials & structures for architectural & civil engineering applications; •Advanced fibrous materials & structures for FRP applications; •Technologies & management concepts for Mass Customization & Personalization in the fibrous materials supply chains; •Technologies and advanced management concepts for the Total Design of fibrous products. The group will strive for international recognition as a “leading research group in the field of fibrous materials product design”. This will be the consequence of planed actions in terms of publications and research projects. The research projects for the period are as follows: •application of fibrous materials in civil construction, mainly for concrete reinforcement; •the use of natural fibre reinforced composites and 3D performs for composite reinforcements; •mathematical modeling of fluid mechanics in fibrous assemblies; •fashion brands communication and market trends; •design competences development (curricula); •design and development of multifunctional textile products for comfort and well being.