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1 10
Flamengo & Around
Flamengo | Cosme Velho | Catete | Glória | Laranjeiras
Neighborhood Top Five
1 Taking the steep cog
train up Corcovado for a
panoramic view beneath
Rio’s open-armed Cristo
Redentor (p112).
3 Admiring the colorful
works of talented but littleknown artists at the Museu
2 Exploring Rio’s past
days of demagogues and political intrigue in the Museu
da República (p114).
4 Making the short but
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Senhora da Glória do
Outeiro (p115).
1 km
0.5 miles
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5 Taking a bike ride
through the expansive
Parque do Flamengo (p114).
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For more detail of this area, see Maps p249 and p250A
111
Best Places
to Eat
Explore Flamengo & Around
5
Running east from the bay out to Corcovado, the residential neighborhoods of Flamengo, Laranjeiras, Catete,
Glória and Cosme Velho have much history hidden in
their old streets. The Parque do Flamengo dominates the
region. Also known as the aterro (landfill), this beachfronting green space is one of the world’s largest urban
parks, and includes a nationally recognized art museum,
biking and running trails, sports fields and thousands
of trees and flowering plants. Inland from the park, the
shaded streets of Flamengo are sprinkled with a few
cafes, historic botecos (small, open-air bars) and gossipfilled juice bars.
West of Flamengo, Laranjeiras is a tightly woven community with a small-town feel. Charming plazas such as
the Praça São Salvador are great spots for taking in the
neighborhood. Cosme Velho lies beyond Laranjeiras and
is the key access point for those heading up to the statue
of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) by cog train.
The aging buildings of bustling Catete and Glória
have seen better days. These twin districts flourished in
the mid-19th century when their locations on the city
outskirts made them desirable places to live. Nobles and
merchants built homes in this district, including the
Barão de Novo Friburgo, who built the stately Palácio do
Catete. By the end of the century, however, the wealthy
began moving further out as the inner city expanded.
¨¨ Ferro e Farinha (p116)
Outdoors Parque do Flamengo (p114) draws locals,
especially on Sundays, when the main road through the
park closes to traffic. Parque Guinle (p115) and Parque
do Catete (p115) are peaceful escapes from the bustling
city.
¨ Folk art The Museu de Folclore Edison Carneiro
(p115) has beautiful pieces from around Brazil. One-ofa-kind works of art make fine gifts at Pé de Boi (p118).
¨ Hangouts Centro Cultural Oi Futuro (p114) hosts
cutting-edge exhibits, and stages plays and concerts.
¨
Getting There & Away
¨
Flamengo buses Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana
(571 and 573).
¨Express
station.
bus 580 from Largo do Machado metro
¨ Laranjeiras and Cosme Velho buses Leblon (570
and 583), Ipanema and Copacabana (569 and 583).
¨ Metro Flamengo, Largo do Machado, Catete and
Glória.
¨¨ Tacacá do Norte (p115)
¨¨ Sírio Libaneza (p116)
¨¨ Luigi’s (p116)
For reviews, see p115 A
Best Places
6 to Drink
¨¨ Devassa (p117)
¨¨ Bar do Zé (p117)
¨¨ Adega Portugália (p117)
¨¨ Belmonte (p117)
¨¨ Herr Brauer (p117)
For reviews, see p117 A
Best
3 Live Music
¨¨ Severyna de Laranjeiras
(p118)
¨¨ Cariocando (p116)
For reviews, see p118 A
Fl a m e n go & A ro u n d 
Local Life
¨¨ Prana Vegetariano (p116)