2009 - 2C2T - Universidade do Minho

CENTRE FOR TEXTILE SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY (2C2T) -2009
1.1 Introduction
The Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T) is a research unit of Minho University.
The Centre started its activity in 1978, being the first unit of R&D in Portugal specialized in the
development of Science and Technology of textile materials and processes.
The Centre research activity is organized in three research groups, covering the domains of the
entire textile and apparel value chain, namely
•
Textile Physics,
•
Textile Chemistry,
•
Management, Design and Marketing.
Each research group is coordinated by a Principal Investigator nominated by the Unit
Coordinator. Researchers belong to a group according to their research activities.
The management structure of the Unit is composed by the Director (Unit Coordinator), the
Steering Committee, the Coordination Board and General Assembly.
The Director is elected among the senior doctorate members of the Unit and is responsible of
representing the Unit, nominate the Principal Investigators and ensure the management
activities.
The Steering Committee competences are mainly concerned with the approval of activity
reports and financial budget as well as decide on the organization and research activities
carried out within research groups.
The Coordination Board ensures the management of Research groups and is responsible to
elaborate the annual reports and propose the activity and budget plans.
The General Assembly is responsible to approve Centre Regulation and promote the elections
every two years.
The core-group involves 31 researchers working in the three above identified areas, 11 senior
scientists and 20 junior scientists. Several grant researchers were also involved.
1.2 Objectives
The vision and mission of 2C2T is to be the leading agent of industry’s change for global
competition, providing the knowledge base for the continuing viability of the textile and
apparel industries.
The general objectives of the Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T) are:
•
To contribute to the development of scientific and technological research in the textile
and apparel fields;
•
To collaborate with other Universities and Research Units in research activities and
post-graduate courses;
•
To contribute to scientific and technology transfer between national and international
organizations;
•
To develop activities of technical support for the community;
•
To conduct, participate and support research activities;
•
To organize seminars, conferences and lectures on related projects,
•
To conduct experimental and research studies, to prepare scientific projects, reports
and documents;
•
To make publications;
•
To participate in directing and coordinating research activities;
To accomplish this, the unit adopts a multidisciplinary approach in carrying out research work
within the university and also in collaboration with foreign universities, research institutions
and companies, covering the complete textile and apparel supply chain.
The main areas of research, according the competences of the Unit and the needs of this
specific domain of activity, are focused in several fields, namely on Conductive Textile
Polymers, Process Monitoring and Control, Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials
(microcapsules to textiles and footwear, new methods for application of dyes and
biofunctionalisation of textiles), Fibre Bioprocesses (enzyme science, biological process on
renewable materials, enzymatic processing of textiles), Sustainable Processing and Finishing
of Textile Materials (plasmatic discharge in textile processing, reusable medical textiles,
advanced techniques for textile effluents treatment), 3D Shaped Textile Preforms for
Composites and New Product Design Methodologies for Customization.
Dissemination of results through conferences’ organization and the establishment of
cooperation protocols involving research, knowledge and technology transfer with
international and national organizations are other activities carried out by the Unit to promote
excellence.
To promote public interest on textile-related research and education and to support training
the Unit has been producing papers in journals and presenting communications in
international and national seminars, as well as, technical manuals.
1.3 Main Achievements
2C2T has been involved worldwide in the development of textile and clothing science and
technology, with interest in subjects that are more relevant to the industry’s competitiveness.
In a broad sense, it can be referred that those subjects are related with Advanced Materials,
Technical Textiles, Equipment Development, Quick Response Strategies and other emergent
technologies. Therefore the goals are centred in the development of innovative solutions in
strategic and emergent areas involving the textile chain:
•
Development of new materials /products.
•
Innovative and improved manufacturing processes, methods, equipments and
integrated systems.
•
Development of supporting technologies to materials/product engineering.
•
Development of new design methodologies, management and product marketing.
ensuring the utilization of the developed solutions through knowledge and technology
transfer.
In the field of materials/product innovation, the research projects are mainly oriented towards
the design and development of functional/multifunctional textiles (smart textiles), reactive
(bio-functional textiles), active (self-regulating textiles) and interactive (electronic textiles)
applied to:
•
Protection, Safety, Occupational Health
•
Automotive
•
Construction
•
Health (Medical)
•
Social Inclusion
In the area of innovative and flexible production processes, the research projects are currently
focused in the knitting and sewing sectors, enzymatic processes, micro encapsulation, plasma
and 3D preforms, concerning the development of equipments, processes and systems for
monitoring and real-time process control devices to impart quality and productivity.
In the supporting technologies area for product engineering the research projects are
essentially oriented to the development of equipment to evaluate or improve
materials/products quality and properties, as well as, to design and engineer new products.
Concerning new management methodologies, design and marketing, the projects are mainly
focused on methods and integrated systems for new and high added-value products design
and on the conception of new market labels, innovative in terms of design, materials,
production technologies and process management (design / production / distribution /
retailing) .
The great majority of projects is developed in collaborative partnerships with other UM
research units, institutions and enterprises, involving national or international
multidisciplinary.
This approach significantly contributed to develop synergies and stimulate research carried out
using internal resources and/or external financing resulting in national and international
funded projects.
The activity of the unit can be quantified by the following indicators:
5 books and chapters of books, 57 publications in international journals, 2 publications in
national journals, 88 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 4
communications in national conferences, 5 organization of seminars and conferences, 6
doctoral and 42 masters theses concluded, 38 doctoral and 18 master theses in progress, 5
patent, supported on 47 funded projects and other non funded projects, promoted by FCT
funding.
Reference must also be made for several cooperation protocols signed with companies, for
technical support or product development.
The Textile and Clothing Industries are in nature multidisciplinary involving multiple
competences, concerning product, processes and equipment development, design,
management and marketing, among others.
Therefore research projects integrated multiple scientific and technological domains and
research teams involve members from different research Units, namely with researchers from
electronics, mechanics, materials, physics, chemistry and biology, from internal or external
institutions, as can be seen in the list of projects and publications presented in this report.
In order to promote cross disciplinary research, non formal meetings between members of
distinct research centres were organized and encouraged. In this regard, some concrete
actions were taken, namely through the funding that was allocated to preliminary research
studies in subjects involving at least three different domains (In2Tec projects).
Besides research, 2C2T promotes research training leading to technology and knowledge
transfer across different domains through the participation and promotion of Master Courses.
Also 2C2T members are collaborating in other Master Courses, namely on those promoted by
School of Engineering. Another type of dissemination that is being followed is Industrial thesis
made by first degree students. Relative to this strategy, cooperation protocol between the
leading textile associations (ATP, Anivec) the Ordem dos Engenheiros (Portuguese engineer’s
chamber) and the Portuguese Employment and Training Institute – IEFP, to promote the
cooperation between the industry and university, towards sustainable competitiveness. In the
period, 6 PhD Thesis and 42 MSc Thesis were produced, most of them in collaboration with
other departments and with industry.
1.4 Dissemination
Dissemination is a key factor to diffuse Unit activities and at the same time to promote
excellence. The purposes of the outreach activities carried out by the research unit were:
•
Raise awareness of the research carried out
•
Inform the community
•
Promote projects results and engage other researchers and stakeholders
The main target audiences were the scientific community, the media, the industry, the
institution and government.
The outreach activities carried out by the Unit comprised:
-Presentation of the research works developed in well-known international and national
conferences to share the achievements with experts in the field (88 communications in
international conferences (proceedings), 4 communications in national conferences);
- Publication in peer-reviewed journal articles to inform the scientific community of the
achievements of the Unit research (57 publications in international journals, 2 publications in
national journal);
- Participation in technical events through posters, leaflets, brochures and prototype
demonstrations to show the progress and developments achieved to a larger community,
including stakeholders,
- Organization of technical workshops and seminars to raise awareness and promote Unit
research (5 organization of seminars and conferences);
- Organization and participation on institution workshops to inform the internal scientific
community on research progress
- Public speakers, roundtable discussions to raise awareness of the importance of innovation in
the textile and clothing sectors to the national and European economy
- Articles in magazines, newspapers and TV programs to disseminate and promote the work to
the public community
- Institution and Unit website to disseminate the most relevant and updated information about
Unit activities (www.uminho.pt, www.2c2t.uminho.pt)
2. RESEARCH GROUPS
Referência
Nome do Grupo
RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1786
Textile Physics
RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1787
Textile Chemistry
RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1789
Management, Design and Marketing
2.1 Research Group Title: Textile Physics
Research Group Title: Textile Physics
Principal Investigator: Maria Elisabete Martins Paiva Monteiro Cabeço Silva
Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering
2.1.1 Objectives
The Textile Physics research group is a founding component of 2C2T whose objectives include:
•
Development of flexible and intelligent process control systems;
•
Development of new equipment to evaluate or improve materials/products quality
and properties, as well as, to design and engineer new products;
•
Development and innovation of high-tech multifunctional textiles integrating new
materials and processes.
The major emphasis of the group has been on the development of technological solutions for
practical problems of the Portuguese and European Textile Industries, together with process
and product innovation to expand these industries to non-traditional markets.
Established and newly developed devices for monitoring and real-time control are being used
on the study of the dynamic behaviour and fault prediction of sewing and knitting processes.
Similarly, developed textile support equipment is being used to design, improve and evaluate
materials and products properties, performance and behaviour, under multiaxial stresses, and
to establish performance standards for raw materials and yarn production based on the use of
prediction and decision-support tools.
More recently the group has been active in the development of textile-based products
integrating electronic systems (e-textiles, i-textiles) for protection, safety (i-protect) and
personal empowerment (i-vest) applications, textiles with improved functionality for O.R.
theatres (medical textiles) and textiles and clothing for physiological comfort. Studies on
sensory analysis of textiles are also being conducted to assess handle and predict total comfort
properties.
The group explores several research approaches ranging from fundamental to applied research
with special emphasis on textile-related problems.
2.1.2 Main Achievements
The Textile Physics group adopts a multidisciplinary approach in carrying out research work
within the university and also in collaboration with foreign universities, research institutions
and companies. The core-group involves 10 researchers working in the three above identified
areas, 3 senior scientists and 7 junior scientists.
This approach significantly contributed to develop synergies and stimulate research carried out
using internal resources and/or external financing resulting in 21 national and international
funded projects, which contributed to the following productivity indicators:
2 books and chapters of books, 14 publications in international journals, 1 publication in
national journals, 32 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 2
communications in national conferences, 1 doctoral and 15 master theses concluded, 1 posdoc supervision, 10 doctoral and 12 master theses in progress and 10 research grants.
Dissemination of results through conference’s organization and the establishment of
cooperation protocols involving research, knowledge and technology transfer with
international and national organizations from the public and private sectors are other activities
carried out by the group to promote excellence. In this regard we highlight the cooperation
protocols with a spanish technological research centre (Gaiker) in the area of conductive
polymers and in the area of process monitoring and control, with a chinese sewing machine
company manufacturer (Zoje Machine Company, Lda) and two german institutions (Innomas
and Steinbeis transferzentrum) and in the area of textile comfort a protocol with a French
research laboratory (Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique Textile).
To promote public interest on textile-related research and education and to support training
the group has been producing papers in journals and presenting communications in
international and national seminars, as well as, technical manuals.
2.1.3 Publications in peer review Journals
Some examples:
ABREU, M. J., BRAGA, I., DUARTE, F. - Simulating Human Physiological Response with a Thermal
Manikin testing different Non Active Medical Devices, Journal Materials Science Forum, Editora
Transtec, ISSN 0255-5476. (aceite para publicação)
ALPUIM, P., MARINS, E.S., ROCHA, P.F., TRINDADE, I.G., CARVALHO, M.A.F., LANCEROSMENDEZ, S., Ultra-sensitive shape sensor test structures based on piezoresistive doped
nanocrystalline silicon, Vacuum, Elsevier, 83, 1279–1282, 2009
BRAGA, I., ABREU, M. J.- Otimização do Design do Vestuário Cirúrgico Através do Estudo do
Conforto Térmico, Revista Enfermagem Atual, Editora EPUB, ISSN 0104-3552. (aceite para
publicação)
H. CARVALHO, A.M. ROCHA, J. L. MONTEIRO, Measurement and analysis of needle penetration
forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine, Journal of the Textile Institute, ISSN 00405000.100:4 (May 2009), pp 319-329.
CARVALHO, V., CARDOSO, P.; BELSEY. M.; VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SOARES, F, O - Yarn Hairiness
Characterization Using Two Orthogonal Directions, IEEE Transactions on Instrumentation and
Measurement, vol.58, nº3, March 2009, pp594-601
CARVALHO, V.; BELSEY, M; VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SOARES, F, O, “Yarn Diameter and Linear
Mass Correlation”. J Nondestruct Eval (2009) 28:pp 49–54 DOI 10.1007/s10921-009-0046-8.
CARVALHO, V.; BELSEY. M.; VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SOARES, F. O.- “Automatic yarn
Characterization System: Design of a Prototype”, ”, IEEE Sensors Journal , vol . 9, Nº 8, Agosto
2009, pp. 987-993.
CARVALHO, V.; BELSEY. M;.VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SOARES, F. O.- Yarn Irregularity
Parameterisation Using Optical Sensors”, Fibres & Textiles IN Eastern Europe, January /March
2009, vol17, Nº1(72) , pp 26-32
LIMA, M.; VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SILVA, L, F.; CUNHA, J. - “Fabrics Made from Non-Conventional
Blends: What Can we Expect from them Related to Frictional Properties”, Textile Research
Journal, vol 79(4) March 2009: 337-342 . DOI: 10.1177/0040517508097519 (factor de impacto
0.473)
LIMA, M.; VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SILVA, L, F.; CUNHA, J. .” Analysis of the Friction Coefficient in
Fabrics Made from Non-conventional Blends” Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, vol.1(19), , January –
March 2009 pp 258-263.
LIMA, M.; VASCONCELOS, R.; SILVA, L.F.; CUNHA, J.; Fabrics Made from Non-Conventional
Blends: What Can we Expect from them Related to Frictional Properties?, Textile Research
Journal, Vol79, Issue 4, March 2009, Sage Publications, ISSN 0040-5175, pg. 337-342.
NOGUEIRA, C., CABEÇO SILVA, M.E., SCHACHER, L., ADOLPHE, D., - Textiles Materials- Tactile
Describers, Journal of Food Technology, 7 (3) 66-70, 2009, ISSN 1684-8462.
PAMUK, O., ABREU, M. J., ONDOGAN, Z. - Tensile Strength Properties of Woven and Nonwoven
Surgical Gown Fabrics, Tekstil. Journal of Textile and Clothing Technology, Publisher: Croatian
Association of Textile Engineers, Vol. 57, 2009 ISSN 0492-5882
PAMUK, O.; ONDOGAN, Z.; ABREU, M. J. - The Thermal Comfort Properties of Reusable and
Disposable Surgical Gown Fabrics, TEKSTILEC (Slovene Journal for Textile and Clothing
Technology, Design and Marketing, Vol. 52, 2009, ISSN 0351-3386
2.1.4 Other International publications
Some examples:
ABREU M. J. ; BRAGA, I.; DUARTE, F.M. - Simulating Human Physiological Response with a
Thermal Manikin testing Non ActiveMedical Devices, Fifth Int Materials Symposium (Materiais
2009), Lisboa, Portugal, Abr 2009.
ABREU M. J. - A Função dos Dispositivos Médicos na Segurança e Higiene Ocupacional dos seus
Utilizadores nos Hospitais. SHO 2009, Col Segurança e Higiene Ocupacionais, Guimarães,
Portugal, Fev 2009. ISBN 978-972-99504-5-2.
ABREU, M.J.; BRAGA, I – Designing a New Surgical Gown using Subjective and Objective
Evaluation Methods, 2nd Int Conf ITMC 2009, Casablanca, Marrocos, Nov 2009. ISBN 9789954-8878-1-4.
ABREU, M.J.; BRAGA, I. - Thermal Comfort Evaluation of Non Active Medical Devices using
Thermal Manikin Measurements, Autex 2009, Cesme, Turquia, Mai 2009. ISBN 978-975-483787.
BROEGA A.C., CABEÇO SILVA M. E. - The Thermal Comfort Evaluation of Woollen Fine Materials
Based on Consumers Preferences, Proceedings of the 9th AUTEX - World Textile Conference
AUTEX2009, Çesme – Izmir, Turkey May 2009
CARVALHO, M.A.F.; DUARTE, F.M.; HEINRICH, D.P.; SOUTO, A.P. - WeAdapt - Inclusive Clothing
Design - Fashion Collection for mobility impairment, 1º Cong Int Deficiência, Braga, Portugal,
Jan 2009
CARVALHO, M.A.F.; DUARTE, F.M.; HEINRICH, D.P.; SOUTO, A.P.; WOLTZ, S.T. - Inclusive
Clothing Design -Proposal for Product Development for Mobility Impairment, Hawaii
Convention Center, Honolulu, May 2009
CARVALHO, M.A.F.; DUARTE, F.M.; HEINRICH, D.P.; SOUTO, A.P.; WOLTZ, S.T. - WeAdapt Inclusive Clothing Design Proposal for Product Development, The Royal College of Art, Helen
Hamlyn Centre, London, April 2009
CARVALHO, V., BESLEY, M, VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SOARES, F, O, A comparison of mass
parameters determination using capacitive and optical sensors, Eurosensors, Lausanne,
Switzerland, Sep 2009 ISSN 1876 6196
CARVALHO, V., BESLEY, M, VASCONCELOS, R. M.; SOARES, F, O, Automatic Yarn
Characterization System, 7th, Palma de Maiorca, Espanha, Out 2009 ISBN 978-1-4244-2581-5,
pp780-783
CATARINO, A., ROCHA A.M. , MONTEIRO J.L. , “Fault Detection in Yarn Input Tension
Waveforms using Match Pursuit”, RECPAD 2009, Aveiro, Oct 2009, Portugal
FERREIRA, F., SURMA, B., CAMPAGNE, C., KRUCINSKA, I., PAIVA, M., COVAS, J, Study on the Use
of Carbon Nanotubes Polymer Composites in Textiles, 9th AUTEX - World Textile Conference –
AUTEX2009, Çesme – Izmir, Turkey, May 2009
HEINRICH, D.P, CARVALHO, M.A.F.; A ergonomia e os princípios do conforto no design de
produtos para vestuário: acerca dos dados antropométricos aplicados a públicos específicos.
In: IV Worshop de Análise Ergonômica do Trabalho. FAPEMIG. Viçosa – MG, Brasil, 2009
HEINRICH, D.P, CARVALHO, M.A.F., BARROSO, M.F.P.; Conforto do Vestuário – Princípios
Ergonômicos Aplicados ao Design Centrado no Usuário. 5 Int Congf Research in Design. Bauru,
Brasil, 10-12 Out 2009
HEINRICH, D.P, CARVALHO, M.A.F.; Acessibilidade cotidiana na terceira idade - IV Worshop de
Análise Ergonômica do Trabalho. FAPEMIG. V. 01, Viçosa- MG, Brasil, 2009.
HUSSAIN, D., FIGUEIREDO, M., FERREIRA, F., Swot Analysis of Pakistan Textile Supply Chain, IX
Cong Galego de Estatística e Investigación de Operacións, Ourense, Nov 2009
LIMA, M.; SILVA, L-F.; VASCONCELOS R.; CARNEIRO, A.. -FRICTORQ, Mechatonic Design for the
Objective Measurement of Friction in 2D Soft Surfaces, MECAHITECH’09, Bucharest , Roménia,
Oct 2009.
MAGNUS E., CATARINO A. , BROEGA C., Interactions between apparel design and seamless
technology, Int Conf on Integration of Design, Engineering and Management for innovation,
IDEMI 2009, Sep 2009, Porto, Portugal
MARTINS L.A.S.B., FERNANDES C.M.C., NUNES AVA, CARVALHO M.A.F.; Dynamic Waterbed
with Pressure Modulation by Turbulent Jets. ASME Int Mechanical Engineering Congress &
Exposition - IMECE 2009, Lake Buena Vista, Florida, USA, Nov 2009
MATOS, D., ARAÚJO, L., MONTEIRO, S.C.; ALMEIDA, L.S.;CRUZ, J. VASCONCELOS, R. M -: O
Papel das Figuras Significativas no Percurso de Indivíduos de Excelência: Estudos de Caso em
Contexto de Realização, ICPED 2009- 1st Int Conf Psychology and Education, UBI, Covilhã– Mar
2009
MONTAGNA, G., CATARINO, A., CARVALHO, H., ROCHA, A.. Study and Optimization of
Swimming Performance in Swimsuit Designed with Seamless Technology, Autex 2009 World
Textile Conference, Izmir, Turkey , 2009, May
MONTAGNA,G., CARVALHO, C. ,CARVALHO, H., CATARINO, A., O Designer de Produto como
Elemento de Ligação nas Equipas Multidisciplinares, Conferência e-Design 2009, Lisboa, Nov
2009
MONTEIRO, S., ALMEIDA, L. S., VASCONCELOS, R. M. & CRUZ, J. F. Studying excellent
engineering students: A mixed methods approach. 5th Int Mixed Methods Conf School of
Healthcare, University of Leeds, Jul 2009 (Poster)
MONTEIRO, S.C.; ALMEIDA, L.S.; VASCONCELOS, R. M -: O papel docente na Formação de
Alunos de excelência na Engenharia- dados de um Estudo quantitativo na Universidade do
Minho, WCCA 2009- World Cong on Communication and Arts, Abr 2009, São Caetano do Sul,
Brasil– ISBN 978-85-89120-68-5, pp 28-32 .
RUTHSCHILLING A. A., BROEGA A.C. – Design de vestuário de moda contemporânea: criação
versus produção, Proceedings of the 5º Colóquio de Moda, Faculdade Boa Viagem, Recife,
Pernambuco, Brasil, Set 2009.
SANTOS, J.; PONTES, L.: CARVALHO, M. - Sense4Me: Rede de Sensores de Deformação para
Electro-Têxteis e Cuidados de Saúde - Colóquio Internacional sobre Segurança e Higiene
Ocupacionais – SHO 2009, Guimarães, Fev 2009
SANTOS, J.; PONTES, L.: CARVALHO, M.A.F.; ALVES, P.; Pressure ulcers prevention: insights
from postural adjustments of healthy persons. 12th Annual Open Meeting of the European
Pressure Ulcer Advisory Panel. Academic Medical Center (AMC). Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
Sep 2009. (Poster)
SILVA, M., CATARINO, A., CARVALHO, H., ROCHA, A., MONTEIRO, J., MONTAGNA, G., Study Of
Vital Sign Monitoring With Textile Sensor In Swimming Pool Environment. IECON 2009, 35th
Annual Conf IEEE Industrial Electronics Society, Nov 2009, Porto, Portugal
SILVA, M., CATARINO, A., CARVALHO, H., ROCHA, A., MONTEIRO, J., MONTAGNA, G, Textile
Sensors for ECG and Respiratory Frequency on Swimsuits, Conf Intelligent Textiles and Mass
Customisation, Casablanca, Morocco, Nov 2009, ISBN 978-9954-8878-1-4
SILVA, M.; ABREU, M. J.; PIRES, H. – The contemporary estheticization of products through the
shop window-dressing. Parfois: A case study analysis, 9th Conf European Sociological
Association (ESA 2009), Lisboa, Portugal, Set 2009. http//:esa.abstractbook.net
VASCONCELOS, R. M.; ALMEIDA, L.S.; MONTEIRO, S.C -: O Insucesso e Abandono Académico na
Universidade: Uma Análise sobre os Cursos de Engenharia, ICECE 2009 Int Conf Engineering
and Computer Education, Mar 2009, Buenos Aires, Argentina– ISBN 978-85-89120-063-0,
pp.457-461
WEIAND R. , BROEGA A.C. , MOTA RIBEIRO S., - Turkey: the Interface Country Between Orient
and Occident and the Fashion Visual Communication, 9th AUTEX - World Textile Conference –
AUTEX2009, Çesme – Izmir, Turkey May 2009
2.1.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis
PhD Thesis
Obtenção de Medidas para a concepção de Vestuário – implicações e limitações dos dados
antropométricos, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Dez 2009, Orient: Miguel Carvalho e
Mónica Barroso, Dout: Daiane Pletsch Heinrich.
MSc Thesis
A Tecnologia Seamless na Relação do Têxtil com a Estética enquanto Produto de Vestuário,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing de Moda, Outubro de 2009. Orient: André Catarino, Mest:
Cármen Augusto
As montras como forma de comunicação de uma marca de produtos de moda, Mestrado em
Design e Marketing-Opção Têxtil, Set de 2009, Orient: Maria José Abreu/Maria Helena Pires
(DCC). Mest: Mellissa Lima e Silva
Concepção e Desenvolvimento de Fato para Trabalhadores em Ambientes Frios, Mestrado em
Design e Marketing, Dezembro 2009, Orient: Ana Broega, Mest: Gilda Maria Murta Santos.
Departamento de Engenharia Têxtil em Interacção com a Industria Têxtil e do Vestuário, Ciclo
de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Dezembro 2009, Mest: Maria Manuela Gonçalves
Ferreira, Orient: Rosa Vasconcelos
Design de vestuário de moda contemporânea: criação versus produção, Mestrado em Design e
Marketing, Janeiro 2009 Orient: Ana Broega, Mest: Anne Anicet Rüthschilling.
Design de Vestuário para Desportistas Deficientes Motores, Mestrado em Design e Marketing,
Set 2009, Orient: Miguel Ângelo Carvalho, Mest: Maria do Socorro de Araújo.
Estudo da Dinâmica de Costura numa Máquina de Costura de Ponto Preso, Mestrado em
Design e Marketing, Set 2009, Orient: Miguel Ângelo Carvalho, Mest: Avelino Machado
Ferreira.
Estudo do Comportamento de Materiais Celulósicos ao “Toque”, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado
em Engenharia de Materiais, Dezembro 2009, Orient: Rosa Vasconcelos Mest: António Manuel
Carneiro
Estudo e Desenvolvimento de um Fato de Natação Feminino, para Pessoas com Excesso de
Peso, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Set 2009, Orient: Miguel Ângelo Carvalho, Mest:
Maria Gladis Franco Marramon.
Estudo e Utilização da Antropometria e Modelação na Criação de Vestuário para Pessoas com
Trissomia 21, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Set 2009, Orient: Miguel Ângelo Carvalho,
Mest: Cristiane Nunes Santos.
O Design de Moda aplicado à Tecnologia Seamless, Mestrado em Design e Marketing de Moda,
Novembro de 2009, Orient: André Catarino, Cristina Broega, Mest: Emanuele Magnus.
Produção de objectos artísticos em suportes utilitários, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Abril
2009 Orient: Hélder Carvalho e Maria da Graça Guedes. Mest: Fúlvio Mendes,
Redução de Custos de Produção na Área do Calçado, Mestrado Integrado em Engenharia
Têxtil, Dezembro 2009, Orient: Miguel Ângelo Carvalho, Mest: Manuel Afonso Sereno Ferro.
Desenvolvimento de Vestuário Funcional termo-regulador, Mestrado Integrado em Engenharia
Têxtil., Novembro 2009, Orient: Ana Maria Rocha, Mest: Ana Valinho
Estruturas têxteis conformáveis integrando materiais com memória de forma (SMMs),
Mestrado em Têxteis Avançados, Janeiro 2009, Orient: Ana Maria Rocha, Mest: Joaquim Anjos
2.1.6 Internationalization
The Textile Physics group is involved with the most important universities, such as Autex
(Association of European Textile Universities), centres of research and companies in
multidisciplinary teams, in a national or international basis, guarantying the dissemination of
projects results within academic and industrial communities. Contracts within cooperation
protocols with individuals and companies provide shared access to technologies, entries into
proprietary research and a rapid response team for national and international initiatives.
The participation in international networks of experts and research institutions, such as the
European Technology European Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing, dealing with
intelligent and smart textiles, standardisation, new material and product development opened
new innovation opportunities that consolidated the involvement in Research Projects at
European level.
The textile physics team is also active in research and scholarly collaboration with international
PhD students, graduate student mobility, faculty-staff programs for research, international
conferences and workshops, international PhD and MSc juries, joint publications, joint degree
programs, invited lectures, PhDs co-supervision, reviewer in international journals and
conferences and participates in the evaluation and technical follow-up of textile based
research projects for the European Commission.
2.1.7 Government/Organization contract research
Aprendizagem Centrada no Aluno à luz do processo de Bolonha: a Inclusão integrada das
competências Transversais, Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian , (92772), 60000 €
BIOSWIM - Sistema de Interface Corporal Integrada em Vestuário para Monitorização de
Sinais, PTDC EEA-ELC/70803/06, 3 anos, 98381 €, FCDEF UP, INESC-Porto
Desenvolvimento de Vestuário termoregulador e dermoprotector, QREN, 24 m, 100.000 €,
Newtextiles
Desenvolvimento de Têxteis Funcionais para Aplicações Dermatológicas e de Conforto
Térmico, QREN, 36 m, 190.000 €, Newtextiles
ETP@Textile&Clothing.pt, POCI 2010 Med.V./021/06 , 18 meses, 40000 €, Citeve
FRICTORQ, AI-POCTI -I&D, 93881 €
INTELTEX – Intelligent Multi-reactive textiles integrating nano-filler based CPC fibers, IPNMP2CT-2006-026626, 4 anos, 365 000 €, Nanocyl, Eurodye, Minerva, Protensive, Multitel,
Arlen, Tissa, Edana, Alma, ENSAIT, TUL, UBS, QMUL, IPFDD, Peratech
ITT – Innovative Textile Transfer, Leonardo da Vinci, 2 anos, 30 000 €, Univ. Leeds, Klitra, TEI
Piraeus, Riga Univ, Iasi Univ, Univ. Maribor
Membrana Portátil Adaptável ao Clima, FCT, 36 m, 190.000 €
MultiFunTextiles, 24 m, 58.000 €, ATP
PiezoTex - Sensores e actuadores piezoeléctricos em filamento e filme poliméricos extrudidos,
PTDC/CTM/108801/2008, 36m, 119.000 €
Playvest, QREN, 2 4 m, 190 000 €
PROLIMB - Sensorização Electrónica para a Profilaxia de Patologias dos Membros Inferiores,
FCT, PTDC/EEA-ELC/103683/08, 36m, 173.000 €, Inesc Porto, FEUP
Promoção do Sucesso Escolar e Combate ao Abandono e ao Insucesso na Universidade do
Minho POCI 2010, Medida IV.1, Acção IV.1., 120.839,45 €
Rede de sensores de deformação para electro-têxteis e cuidados de saúde,
PTDC/CTM/66558/2006, 30 meses, 105 100 €, Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade do
Porto, Dep.Física /Dep. Psicologia, UMinho
Sense4me - Sistema de monitorização e controlo de desconforto em deficientes físicos,
PTDC/SAU-BEB/68678/06, 36 meses, 146.603 €, Hospital São Marcos, APD-Associação
Portuguesa de Deficientes
Somelos, 12 meses, 21000 €, Somelos
2.1.8 Future Objectives
The future objectives of the Textile Physics research group rely mainly on the research areas
previously defined that represent a medium-long term group strategy. In this context, the
prioritization of the research areas was also defined and in the past was mainly focused on the
development of flexible and intelligent process control systems and new equipment. In the
short term, the group is mainly targeting the research challenge that is subjacent to the
development and innovation of high–tech multifunctional textiles and the development of
technologies with specially designed modifications for this new generation of textiles. This can
be assessed by the on-going projects in which the group members are involved and in the
publications that are being submitted/accepted.
Internationalisation continues to be a goal, either through the consolidation of networks of
experts and research institutions, either through the involvement in European standardisation
institutions and in international committees. Industrial contracts within cooperation protocols
with individuals and companies to promote technology and knowledge transfer, as well as, the
establishment of a training international network in the area of High-Tech Textiles (a Master
course started in 2007/08) are short-term goals of the group.
The Textile Physics group enjoys effective and well-established mechanisms for knowledge and
technology transfer to industry. The projects support graduate students that represent an
important vehicle for knowledge transfer. By emphasizing team-based interdisciplinary
research within the group, students are trained in a mode that is critically important to
meeting the complex, fast-moving challenges of industry.
New materials with switchable and adaptive properties, integration of microsystems in textiles
and textile-based sensors, open a huge field for the development of new constructions which
will be integrated in applications for technical and protective textiles. They will be developed
for the use in medical/empowerment clothing, surgical textiles in operation theatre,
protection and sports wear, clean room textiles and automotive textiles.
The production of all these innovative materials and constructions will be reached with new
and/or adapted processes in textile production industry.
2.2 Research Group Title: Textile Chemistry
Research Group Title: Textile Chemistry
Principal Investigator: JAIME ISIDORO NAYLOR DA ROCHA GOMES
Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering
2.2.1 Objectives
The Textile Chemistry Group is organized under the concept of integrated research work
covering transversal fields of interest in the areas of textile polymers and textile processing.
The major emphasis as been fundamental knowledge in textile related sciences and industrial
applications, towards development of environmentally friendly finishing processes and
functional products.
The activity is highly internationalized through a collaborative effort with the most important
worldwide universities, research centres, enterprises, individually or inside networks,
connected with running projects or those concerning forthcoming goals. The participation of
the Textile Chemistry Group in international networks of experts, research institutions dealing
with intelligent and smart textiles and European standardisation concerning multifunctional
textiles and functionalisation of textiles, opens wide chances to be on top of the wage in which
concerns innovation opportunities.
Three main research areas are active: Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials, Fibre
Bioprocesses, Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials
Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials domain has been active in dye chemistry and
adsorption (synthesis of new catalysts for degradation of dyes in effluents), controlled delivery
of substances (liposomes and microcapsules), interactive textile materials (PCM-phase change
materials) and active textiles (anti-bacterial textiles).
In which concerns Fibre Bioprocesses area, intensive work has been produced regarding
mechanisms of enzyme’s application in textile processing, namely by modification of natural
and synthetic fibrous polymers.
Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials concerns plasmatic surface
treatments in order to radically change finishing processes and products, with high level of
effects, , higher durability, lower costs and less products; electrochemical technologies,
advanced oxidation processes and modification of membranes for wastewater treatments are
contributions to sustainable solutions for textile industry pollution problems; development of
new materials for reusable medical textiles with increased resistance to washing, drying,
sterilisation has also been the aim of important developments.
2.2.2 Main Achievements
Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials provided projects in innovative application of
microcapsules in textile and footwear industry. 5 projects with and without external funding,
concerning production and degradation of dyes, new methods for application of dyes and
biofunctionalisation of textiles, are active. 4 publications in international journals and 8
communications in international congresses and conferences were achieved.
Fibre Bioprocesses concerned 4 funded projects with international links with centres of
knowledge in enzyme science regarding biological detergents, biological process on renewable
materials, enzymatic treatment of wool, functionalisation of medical textiles, enzymatic
processing of textiles with ultrasounds and enzymatic modification of synthetic fibres. 9
publications in international journals, 2 doctoral thesis concluded, 6 doctoral thesis in progress
and 3 patents are the most significant productivity indicators.
Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials concerned 5 national and
international funded projects, regarding plasmatic discharge in textile processing of cellulosic
materials and industrial prototype, reusable medical textiles and advanced techniques for
textile effluents treatment. 1 chapter of book, 8 articles in international journals, 15
communications in international conferences, 6 master thesis concluded, 5 doctoral and 8
master thesis in progress and 1 patent were the main productivity indicators.
As global results of Textile Chemistry Group, 1 chapter of book, 21 articles in international
journals, 24 communications in international conferences, 2 doctoral and 6 master thesis
concluded, 11 doctoral and 8 master thesis in progress, 4 patents and 14 projects were
produced.
2.2.3 Publications in peer review Journals
BRISSOS V, PEREIRA L, MUNTEANU F. D., CAVACO-PAULO A,. MARTINS L.O., Expression System
Of Cota-Laccase For Directed Evolution And High-Throughput Screenings For The Oxidation Of
High-Redox Potential Dyes, Biotechnol. j., 2009 4 (doi:10.1002/biot.200800248)
CARDOSO, I, GOMES, J.N.R., “The application of microcapsules of PCM in flame resistant nonwoven materials”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol 21, number
2/3(2009), 102-108.
CARNEIRO, N., SOUTO, A.P., FOSTER, F., OLIVEIRA, F., FERNANDES, F., DIAS, P., “La maquina de
plasma DBD en el procesamiento a mojado del material têxtil”, Química Textil
EBERL A., HEUMANN S., BRÜCKNER T , ARAÚJO, R., CAVACO-PAULO A., KAUFMANN F.,
KROUTIL W, GUEBITZ G.M. , Enzymatic Surface Hydrolysi Of Poly(Ethylen Terephthalate) And
Bis(Benzoyloxyethyl) Terephthalate By Lipase And Cutinase In The Presence Of Surface Active
Molecules, Journal Of Biotechnology, 2009, 143(3):207–212
(doi:10.1016/j.jbiotec.2009.07.008)
FRANCISCO E., ZILLE A, DIAS G.F., CRISTIANO R, DURRANT L. R., CAVACO-PAULO A.,
Biodegradation Of Textile Azo Dyes By A Facultative Staphylococcus Arlettae Strain Vn-11
Using A Sequencial Microaerophilic/Aerobic Process, International Biodeterioration &
Biodegradation, 2009, 63(3):280-288, (doi:10.1016/j.ibiod.2008.10.003)
FRANCISCO E, ZILLE A, FANTINATTI-GARBOGGINI F, S. SILVA I, CAVACO-PAULO A , L. R.
DURRANT, Microaerophilic-Aerobic Sequential Decolourization/Biodegradation of Textile Azo
Dyes By A Facultative Klebsiella sp. strain vn-31, Process Biochemistry, 2009, 44(4), 446-452
(doi:10.1016/j.procbio.2008.12.009)
GOWRI, S., ALMEIDA, L., AMORIM, T., CARNEIRO, N., SOUTO, A.P., ESTEVES, F., “Polymer
nanocomposites for multifunctional finishing of textiles- A review”, Textile Research Journal,
Set 2009
GOWRI, S., ALMEIDA, L., AMORIM, T., CARNEIRO, N., SOUTO, A.P., ESTEVES, F., Sunil Kumar
Sanghy, “Functional finishing of polyamide fabrics using ZnO-PMMA nanocomposites”, Journal
of Materials Science
GOWRI, S., ALMEIDA, L., AMORIM, T., CARNEIRO, N., SOUTO, A.P., ESTEVES, F., “Novel
copolymer for SiO2 nanoparticles dispersion”, Journal of Applied Polymer Science
HEUMANN S, A EBERL S., FISHER-COLBRIE G, POBEHEIM H, KAUFMANN F, RIBITSCH D,
CAVACO-PAULO A, GM GUEBITZ, A Novel Aryl Acylamidase From Nocardia Farcinica Hydrolyses
Polyamide, Biotechnol bioeng, 2009, 102(4):1003-1011 (doi:10.1002/bit.22139)
KIM, S., SILVA, C., ZILLE, A, LOPEZ, C, EVTUGUIN, D. V., CAVACO-PAULO, A., Characterisation Of
Enzymatically Oxidised Lignosulfonates And Their Application On Lignocellulosic Fabrics,
Polymer International, 2009, 58(8):863-868 (doi:10.1002/pi.2600)
MORÃO, A., NUNES, J., SOUSA, F., AMORIM, M.T., ESCOBAR, I, QUEIROZ, J "Development of a
model for membrane filtration of long and flexible macromolecules: Application to predict
dextran and linear DNA rejections in ultrafiltration." Journal of Membrane Science 336(1-2):
61-70. (2009).
OLIVEIRA, F., SOUTO A. P., CARNEIRO N., NASCIMENTO J., “Surface modification on polyamide
6.6 with double barrier discharge (DBD) plasma to optimize dyeing process by direct dyes“,
Revista Ciência e Tecnologia dos Materiais
OLIVEIRA, F., SOUTO, A.P., CARNEIRO, N., “Tingimento da Poliamida 6.6 com corantes reactivos
para lã e algodão após modificação superficial com descarga plasmátca de dupla barreira
dieléctrica (DBD), Química Têxtil, Nº 95, pag. 20-34, Junho 2009
PINHO, E., HENRIQUES, M., OLIVEIRA, R., DIAS, A., SOARES, G., Development of biofunctional
textiles by the application of resveratrol to cotton, bamboo and silk. Fibers and Polymers
RAMÍREZ, R, MARTÍ, M, CAVACO-PAULO, A, SILVA, R,. DE LA MAZA, A, PARRA J.L., CODERCH, L,
Liposome Formation With Wool Lipid Extracts Rich In Ceramides, Journal of Liposome
Research, 2009, 19(1):77-83
RUZENE, D., SILVA, D., VICENTE, A., TEIXEIRA, J., AMORIM, M.T., GONÇALVES, A. "Cellulosic
Films Obtained from the Treatment of Sugarcane Bagasse Fibers with N -methylmorpholine- N
-oxide (NMMO)." Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology 154(1): 38-47. (2009).
SANTOS, J.G., SOARES, G.M.B., HRDINA, R., OLIVEIRA-CAMPOS, A..M., GOMES, J.I.N.R. “A study
on the spectral changes of reactive textile dyes during dyeing processes and their implications
on online control procedures”. Coloration Technology, vol.125, no.1, (2009), 8-13.
SILVA R,. FERREIRA H, LITTLE C. , CAVACO-PAULO A, Effect Of Ultrasound Parameters For
Unilamellar Liposome Preparation, Ultrasonics Sonochemistry, 2009, in press
(doi:10.1016/j.ultsonch.2009.10.010)
SOARES, G.M.B., VIEIRA, R., SANTOS, J., PEREIRA, P., COSTA-FERREIRA, M., GOMES, J.I.N.R.
“Optimization of Application Procedure for Fixation of Monocationic Salt onto Cotton with
Antibacterial Activity”. Fibers and Polymers, 2009.
2.2.4 Other International publications
ALMEIDA L, MELO; T, Organic textiles - new trend in clothing, AUTEX 2009 World Conference,
Izmir, 25-28 de Maio de 2009.
ALVES M. , SOARES G.M. .- Development of new vat dyeing process using 2-hydroxypropyl-βCyclodextrin. Book of Abstracts of 8th International Meeting of the Portuguese Carbohydrate
Group, Minho University, 06 - 08 September 2009, Braga – Portugal, 63. (Resumo)
AMORIM, M.T., TAVARES, C., MARQUES, S., BERGAMASCO R., MORÃO, A., “Application of
ultrafiltration membranes modified with titanium dioxide in the treatment of textile
wastewater” PPTC09 1ST International Edition “Photocatalytic Products And Technologies
Conference”My11-13, 2009, Universidade Do Minho, Guimarães, Portugal..
AMORIM, M.T.P, MORÃO, A., MARQUES, S.M.S., TAVARES, C., BERGAMASCO, R., (2009)
Modification of ultra- and microflitration membranes with titanim dioxide”
EUROMEMBRANES 2009, September 6-10, Montpellier França.
FERNANDES, H., L.ROYER , SANTOS J., SOARES G.M. - Study of fixation of monochloro-striazinyl-β-cyclodextrins to cotton-polyester blends, 8th International Meeting of the
Portuguese Carbohydrate Group, Minho University, 06 - 08 September 2009, Braga – Portugal,
100.
GOMES, J.I.N.R., MAIA, F., “Silica nanoparticles containing aqueous oxidising and antimicrobial
products”, Nano&Green Technology 2009 conference, NY, EUA, 17-19 Novembro 2009.
GOMES, J.I.N.R., SAMPAIO, S., MAIA, F., “Colored nanoparticles: composition and application
to protein fibres and hair” Nanotech 2009, Houston, Maio 2009, p 102-105
LASCHUK, T.; SOUTO, A. P.; Shape Memory Alloys applied to Intimate Apparel Pad,
Proceedings of V International Materials Symposium - Materiais 2009, Lisboa, Portugal; 5-8 de
Abril, 2009.
LASCHUK, T.; SOUTO, A. P.; Bojo Inteligente com Memória de Forma, XXIII CNTT - Congresso
Nacional de Técnicos Têxteis - ABTT, S. Paulo, Brasil; 14-17 de Abril, 2009.
MAIA, F, GOMES, JINR, “From Micro to Nano”-Nanotechnology conference, Março 2009, IoN,
London, UK. (Poster).
MAIA, F., GOMES, J.I.N.R., “Nanoparticles of silica for ecological antibacterial applications”,
AITEX 3rd international Congress, 28-29 Outubro 2009, Alcoy, Espanha,
MIRANDA T. , SANTOS J., SOARES G., Bioactive Textiles for Well-Being, Medical and Cosmetic
Aplications, Autex Conference 2009, Izmir, Turkey, 26-28 May, 2009
NASCIMENTO J. H. O., NEVES J., CARNEIRO J., TEIXEIRAV. - Plasma Treatments and PVD
Photocatalytic Nanocoatings in Textile Fibers-Towards the Development of Smart Textiles. 1st
International Edition- “Photocatalytic Products and Technologies Conference” PPTC09.
University of Minho, Guimarães. 12 Maio 2009. Poster.
NASCIMENTO J. H. O., NEVES J., TEIXEIRA V., CARNEIRO J. - Properties of UV Blocking with TiO2
Ultra Thin Film prepared by DC-Pulsed Sputering. NATO ARW Conference, Textile Composites,
May 18-21, 2009 in Kiev, Ukraine. Poster
OLIVEIRA, F.; CARNEIRO, N; SOUTO, A..; Polyamide Dyeing with Anionic Dyes after DBD
Treatment – the process’s Optimization, Proceedings of 8th World Textile Conference AUTEX
2009, Izmir, Turquia; 26-28 de Maio, 2009.
OLIVEIRA, F.; CARNEIRO, N; SOUTO, A.P.;Surface Modification on Polyamide 6.6 with Double
Barrier Discharge (DBD) Plasma to Optimize Dyeing Process by Direct Dyes, Proceedings of V
International Materials Symposium - Materiais 2009, Lisboa, Portugal; 5-8 de Abril, 2009.
OLIVEIRA, F.; SOUTO, A.P.; Tingimento da Poliamida 6.6 com corantes Reactivos para lã e
algodão após alteração superficial com Descarga Plasmática de Dupla Barreira dieléctrica
(DBD), XXIII CNTT - Congresso Nacional de Técnicos Têxteis - ABTT, S. Paulo, Brasil; 14-17 de
Abril, 2009
OLIVEIRA, F.R., SOUTO, A.P., CARNEIRO, N., Polyamide dyeing with anionic dyes after DBD
treatment-The Process`s optimization, AUTEX 2009 World Textile Conference, Izmir, Turquia,
26-28 Maio, 2009
RIO M., SANTOS J., SOARES G.M. - Effects of two β-cyclodextrins on the dyeing of polyamide
fibers with acid dyes. Book of Abstracts of 8th International Meeting of the Portuguese
Carbohydrate Group, Minho University, 06 - 08 September 2009, Braga – Portugal, 101.
RYSOVÁ, M.; SOUTO, A. P.; Surface Modification on PVA Fibers with Double Barrier Discharge
(DBD) Plasma, Innovations in Textiles 2009 : Smart, nano and technical textiles for medical,
industrial and clothing applications; The Royal College of Physicians, London, UK ; 18 - 19
March 2009).
SAMPAIO, S., MAIA, F., GOMES, J.I.N.R., “Colored nanoparticles for dyeing wool, silk and
cotton” AITEX 3rd international Congress, 28-29, Outubro 2009, (Poster)
SILVA, F., VIEIRA, BERGAMASCO R., REIS, MIRIA HESPANHOL M., BOUCHARD, C., ARAÚJO, Á.,
AMORIM, M.T., (2009) Evaluation of the application of chitosan as a coagulant/flocculant in a
microfiltration processo f natural water” EUROMEMBRANES 2009, September 6-10,
Montpellier França.
SOARES, G. M. B. - Bioactive Textiles for Well-being, Medical and Cosmetic Applications, Autex
Conference 2009, Izmir, Turkey, 26-28 May, 2009
SOUTO, A.; CARNEIRO, N; Pré-Tratamentos de materiais fibrosos com plasma atmosférico,
Proceedings of 2º Amazonic Green Materials Meeting: encontro de materiais verdes, Manaus,
Brasil; 04 – 07 de Agosto, 2009.
SOUTO, A.; Pré-Tratamentos de materiais fibrosos com plasma atmosférico, Associação
Brasileira da Indústria Têxtil e de Confecção (ABIT,) S. Paulo, Brasil; Agosto, 2009.
2.2.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis completed
PhD Thesis
Celulases para aplicações em detergentes, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Junho de
2009, Orientador: Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Dout: Cristina Caparrós.
Modificação de fibras celulósicas com oxireductases. Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil,
Junho de 2009, Orientador: Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Dout: Su Yeon Kim.
MSc Thesis
Arte e Moda - Processos Artesanais na Indústria de Beneficiamento e Acabamento Têxtil no
Jeans, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Junho de 2009, Orientador: Teresa Maria Miranda,
Mestranda: Célia Maria Santos da Silva
Desenvolvimento de um material têxtil com propriedades anti-oxidantes, Mestrado Integrado
em Engenharia Têxtil, Novembro de 2009, Orientadora: Graça Soares, Mestranda: Hália Maria
Igreja Bernardino Fernandes
Estudo da activação da superfície de tecidos constituídos com fibras hidrofóbicas utilizando
para o efeito a descarga plasmática Corona para efectuar um acabamento com amaciadores
de carácter permanente; Mestrado em Química Têxtil, Set de 2009, Orientador: António Pedro
Garcia de Valadares Souto, Mestrando: Fernando Ribeiro Oliveira
Metodologia de Antecipação das Paletas de Cor nas Tendências de Moda, Mestrado em Design
e Marketing, Dezembro de 2009, Orientador: António Pedro Souto, Co-orientadora: Maria da
Graça Guedes, Mestranda: Raquel de Campos
Modelo de Negócio Orientado para Oferta de Produtos Artísticos em Suportes Têxteis,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Dezembro de 2009, Orientador: António Pedro Garcia de
Valadares Souto, em co-supervisão Profª Graça Guedes, Mestranda: Susana Ralha.
Têxteis Orgânicos - Nova Moda, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Set de 2009. Orientador:
Luis Almeida. Mestranda: Tristana Veras de Melo
PhD Thesis
Celulases para aplicações em detergentes, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Junho de
2009, Orientador: Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Dout: Cristina Caparrós.
Modificação de fibras celulósicas com oxireductases. Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil,
Junho de 2009, Orientador: Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Dout: Su Yeon Kim.
MSc Thesis
Arte e Moda - Processos Artesanais na Indústria de Beneficiamento e Acabamento Têxtil no
Jeans, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Junho de 2009, Orientador: Teresa Maria Miranda,
Mestranda: Célia Maria Santos da Silva
Desenvolvimento de um material têxtil com propriedades anti-oxidantes, Mestrado Integrado
em Engenharia Têxtil, Novembro de 2009, Orientadora: Graça Soares, Mestranda: Hália Maria
Igreja Bernardino Fernandes
Estudo da activação da superfície de tecidos constituídos com fibras hidrofóbicas utilizando
para o efeito a descarga plasmática Corona para efectuar um acabamento com amaciadores
de carácter permanente; Mestrado em Química Têxtil, Set de 2009, Orientador: António Pedro
Garcia de Valadares Souto, Mestrando: Fernando Ribeiro Oliveira
Metodologia de Antecipação das Paletas de Cor nas Tendências de Moda, Mestrado em Design
e Marketing, Dezembro de 2009, Orientador: António Pedro Souto, Co-orientadora: Maria da
Graça Guedes, Mestranda: Raquel de Campos
Modelo de Negócio Orientado para Oferta de Produtos Artísticos em Suportes Têxteis,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Dezembro de 2009, Orientador: António Pedro Garcia de
Valadares Souto, em co-supervisão Profª Graça Guedes, Mestranda: Susana Ralha.
Têxteis Orgânicos - Nova Moda, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Set de 2009. Orientador:
Luis Almeida. Mestranda: Tristana Veras de Melo
2.2.6 Patents/propotypes
ALMANSA, E., CAVACO-PAULO, A., Biocatalytic Hydrophilization Of Polyolefines, ep2047029
BREAKSPEAR, S., TAKASHI ITO, KENZO KOIKE, CAVACO-PAULO, Hair Cosmetic Composition,
wo09041739
CARNEIRO, N.; SOUTO, A.P.; FORSTER, F.; PRINZ, E. - Continuous and semi-continuous
treatment of textile materials integrating CORONA discharge, patente em fase de
internacionalização (2004)/patente nº PCT/PT2004/000008 (2004).
SILVA,C., CAVACO-PAULO, A., Formulation Containing Neck Domains And/Or Carbohydrate
Recognition Domains For Cosmetic Aplications, Namely For The Treatment Of Keratin Fibres
Like Hair, ep2066292
2.2.7 Government/Organization contract research
BIORENEW – Biological process on renewble materials, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-NMP-NI-4/02456,
36 m, 320.000 €, CIB-CSIC, Novozymes, KTH, ITQB, USussex , ULeiden, Ahlstrom
BIOSEAL – Biological detergents,VI FWP EU /PG FP6-514437, 36 m, 150.000 €, PG, TU-Graz,
U.Louvain, U. Birmingham
Centro Ciência em Guimarães, POCI 2010 –FEDER, 12 m, Universidade do Minho, Câmara
Municipal de Guimarães
ECONATUR, QREN-IDT, 24m, 24.000 €, CTIC, Curtumes Salgueiro
Environmental performance indicators and their relation with economic factors in textile BAT
implementation, LIFE07/ENV/P/000626, 30m, 48.835 €, Citeve, APA – Agencia Portuguesa do
Ambiente, ATP – Associação Textil e Vestuario de Portugal
INNOTEX - A tool box to catalyze continuous process INNOvation within the TEXtile
manufacturing lines in Europe, SME COLL - CT - 2006 – 030312, 120.778,40 €, Centexbel
LIDWINE-Multifuntionalized Medical Textiles for wound prevention, VI FWP FP6-2004-EU
NMP/SME-NI-4/ 016333, 36 m, 480.000€, TNO, POL, NANO, COLOR, OSM, MMA, NAN, MUL,
BOT, SOL, TOR
Melhoria da uniformidade de materiais têxteis brancos e tingidos pré-tratados com descarga
plasmática CORONA, POCI/CTM/58731/2004, 36 m, 70 000 €, Universidade da Beira Interior
NANOFOL, 7º PQ EU, 228827, 48 m, 953.297 €, SUAN, TUG, TNO,IBMC, COCH, MUW, UAV
2.2.8 Future Objectives
The three domains of research acting in the frame of the Textile Chemistry Group are
progressing towards innovation, internationalization, and technological transfer to industry, in
fields as pollution reduction and control, surface modification, nanofinishing for
functionalisation of textile materials, ecological dyeing of national woods without solvents,
enzymatic applications for functionalisation purposes, proteins in fibres and cosmetics, study
of non toxic antimicrobial products, improvement of bioactivity in textiles by natural
compounds and control of reactive dyeing baths.
The main objectives for the next three years period are focused into the following innovative
aspects:
Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials,
• Use of environmental compatible technologies in textile industry for the prevention and
solution of pollution problems, as electrochemical techniques for textile wastewater treatment
and recycling (advanced oxidation process application to electrochemical degradation of dyes)
• Application of plasmatic treatments for surface modification in order to improve
nanotechnology potential for the functionalisation of textile materials.
• Synthesis and application of conducting polymers in textiles by means of electrochemical
techniques leading to nanoparticles and nanofibers formation.
• Study of self-cleaning properties in textiles, using photochemical behaviour of titanium
dioxide.
• Development of an ecological method for uniform penetration of wood by direct dyes
Fibre Bioprocesses,
• Optimization of use of biotechnology in textile processing, modification and finishing, namely
regarding enzymatic functionalisation of textile materials
• Applications of biotechnology on cosmetic sector
Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials
• Development of medical and therapeutic textiles, by promoting interactivity, natural
bioactivity and the use of non-toxic antimicrobial agents
• Study of the effect of fibre surface functionalization on the dyeing processes by continuous
monitorization of dyeing baths (using prototype)
• Development of microcapsules for the controlled release of wellness products (hydrating,
healing, vitamins, fragrances) with biocompatible shell walls
• Developments of functional nanoparticles and their application to textile materials
The promotion, protection and development of prototypes and patented machines and
processes regarding industrial application is looked as a key point for innovation in worlwide
textile industry, achieving a straight collaboration between researchers in 2C2T and industry.
2.3 Research Group Title: Management, Design and Marketing
Research Group Title: Management, Design and Marketing
Principal Investigator: Mário Duarte de Araújo
Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering
2.3.1 Objectives
The group has established a worldwide reputation in some of these domains, namely in areas
such as modeling and simulation, 3D shaped preforms for composites, the reinforcement of
concrete with slender braded reinforced composite elements, the use of microencapsulated
pigments for energy saving in green houses and roofs, active outdoors for advertising, new
product design methodologies for customization and others.
The group is very international and it includes researchers from a variety of nationalities. The
patents taken, the invited lectures in conferences and the invitations to write chapters of
international books are significant signals.
Several research projects are being undertaken with funding from the Portuguese government,
the European Commission and directly by companies. These research projects are leading to
important results that are being published in scientific journals and presented at top level
international conferences. Various prototypes have been produced and patents are pending.
As many projects are undertaken with companies, there is a great involvement of the
researchers with the companies, which puts research results to use in product development.
2.3.2 Publications in peer review Journals
Araújo; M., Neves; M., Neves; J. - Impacto da Globalização e do Multiculturalismo no Design de
Moda Cap livro “Design de Moda- olhares diversos”, Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, São
Paulo, Brasil.
Neves; M., Jobim; G. - A Pesquisa de Tendências em Design de Moda: Ênfase na Rede de
Informação. Cap livro “Design de Moda- olhares diversos”, Editora Estação das Letras e Cores,
São Paulo, Brasil.
R. Fangueiro, C. Pereira, M. Araújo, (2008) “Polyesters and Polyamides“, Chapter 17 Applications of Polyesters and Polyamides in Civil Engineering, Woodhead Publishing, lda, ISBN
978-1-84569-298-8.
A. Cardoso, M. de Araujo and E. Coquet, Modeling Children’s Choice Decisions of Clothing,
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2008, Vol.12 , Nº3 , P. 425-428
Araguacy Filgueiras, Raul Fangueiro and Nathália Raphaelli, The Role of Fibres and Yarns in the
Design of Textiles for Sport Activities, Revista de Estudos em Design, 15.1, Brasil 2008.
Cristiana G. Pereira, Raul Fangueiro, Said Jalali, Mário de Araujo, Paula Marques, Braided
Reinforced Composite Rods for Concrete Internal Reinforcement, Mechanics of Composite
Materials, vol. 44, nº3, 2008, pp 221-230.
Fangueiro R et al., Development of fibrous preforms for FRP pipe connections, Compos Sci
Technol (2008), doi:10.1016/j.compscitech.2008.09.020
M. de Araujo, R. Fangueiro and F. Soutinho, Improving the Stiffness of Uni-directinally Oriented
Weft-Knitted Structures for Polymer Matrix Composite Reinforcement, Journal of Textile
Institute
N. Padaki, R. Alagirusamy, B. L. Deopura and R. Fangueiro, Compression and Permeability
Properties of Multiaxial Warp-knit Preforms, The Journal of The Textile Institute, vol 99, nº 4,
2008, pp287-294.
Naveen V Padaki, R Alagirusamy, B L Deopura, B S Sugun & Raul Fangueiro, Low velocity impact
behaviour of textile reinforced composites, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol. 33,
June 2008, pp. 189-202.
S. Chen, X. Ding, R. Fangueiro, H. Yi and J. Ni, Behaviour of Membrane Construction Materials
under Bi-axial Loading, Materials Science Forum, Vols 587-588, Trans Tech Publications,
Switzerland, 2008, pp 662-666.
S. Mukhopadhyay and R. Fangueiro, “Effect of aging on tensile and thermal properties of fibers
extracted from pseudostem of banana (Musa sepientum) plant", Journal Fibers and Polymers
S. Mukhopadhyay, R. Fangueiro and V. Shivankar, “Variability of Tensile Properties of Fibers
from Pseudostem of Banana Plant”, Textile Research Journal
S. Mukhopadhyay, R. Fangueiro, Y. Arpac and U. Senturk, “Banana Fiber – Variability and
Fracture Behaviour”, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, Volume 3, Issue 2, 2008,
Shouhui Chen Xin Ding, Raul Fangueiro and Honglei Yi4, Tensile performance and crack
propagation of coated woven fabrics under multi-axial loads, Polymer Testing Journal
Shouhui Chen, Xin Ding, Raul Fangueiro, Honglei Yi, Jing Ni, Tensile behavior of PVC-coated
woven membrane materials under uni- and bi-axial loads, Journal of Applied Polymer Science,
Volume 107, Issue 3, Pages 2038-2044, 5 February 2008. Online ISSN: 1097-4628
Yixi Luo, Hong Hu and Raul Fangueiro, Tensile and tearing properties of PVC coated Biaxial
Warp knitted fabrics under biaxial loads” Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, vol.33,
June 2008, pp. 146-150.
2.3.3 Other International publications
Some examples:
Cunha, J.; Neves, M.; Arezes, P.; Teixeira, S.; Development of a Lining for the Thermal Comfort
of Trekking Boots, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX Conference – AUTEX2008, Cittá Studio,
Biella, Italy, 24-26 de Junho, 2008.
Cunha, J.; Picoli, J.; Laschuk, T.; Multifunctional Baby Carrier Dress, 4th International Textile,
Clothing and Design Conference – Magic world of textiles, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 2008, pg. 548553, ISBN: 978-953-7105-26-6.
Filgueiras, A, Fangueiro, R & Marques, CT, Design total das T-shirts no futebol profissional
(Total design for the soccer team T-shirts, 4º Congresso Internacional de Pesquisa em Design,
11-13/Out, Rio de Janeiro, 2008
Filipe Soutinho, Raul Fangueiro, P. Gonçalves and Carla Freitas, Development of New
Functional Yarns Based on Wool Fibers, Futurotextiel08 Conference, Belgium, 13th -15th
November, 2008.
Gonilho Pereira, C., Fangueiro, R., Said Jalali M. Araújo, Pina Marques, P., Braided Composite
Rods for Civil Engineering Applications, 5º Congresso Luso-Moçambicano de Engenharia,
Maputo, 2-4 Set 2008.
Laschuk, T.; Picoli, J.; Cunha, J.; Conceptual Baby Carrier Dress, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX
Conference – AUTEX2008, Cittá Studio, Biella, Italy, 24-26 de Junho, 2008.
Mario de Araujo, As Inovações na Indústria Têxtil, 1º Simpósio de Inovação Tecnológica,
SENAI/CETIQT, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil, 1 Out. 2008 (invited paper)
Matos, A.L.B.; Santos, C.M.S.; Silva, M.L.; Cunha, J.; Fashion Clothing for Disabled Persons,
Proceedings of the CIM 2008, 1st International Congress of Fashion, Madrid, Spain, 22-24 de
Outubro, 2008, ISBN-13: 978-84-612-7235-8
Naveen Padaki, B L Deopura, R. Alagirusamy and R. Fangueiro, Multilayer Interlocked 3D
Woven Structures – Fabric Construction and Properties, 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics
and their Applications, Manchester, UK, 10-11 April, 2008.
Neves M.; Neves J. – The Finishing and Structure Influence on the Ultraviolet Protection Factor
of Biodegradable Fibres. Proceedings da Progress 2008 International Conference, Universidade
de Ivanovo, Rússia, 27-30 Maio, 2008. ISBN 978-5-88954-284-1 e ISBN 978-5-88954-286-5.
Neves, M.; Arezes, P.; Teixeira, S.; Leão, C. - Desenvolvimento de Calçado Termicamente
Confortável, Proceedings of the International Symposium on Occupational Safety and Hygiene
- SHO2008, pp.207-218, ISBN978-972-99504-4-5.
Neves, M.; Silva, C. - The Design and the Education – The teaching of mathematics through the
use of games, 4th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference - Magic World of
Textiles, Dubrovnik, Croácia, Outubro 2008.
Paula Pina Marques, Raul Fangueiro and C. Gonilho Pereira, Concrete Reinforced By
Directionally Oriented Fibrous Structures, Autex Conference 2008, Biella, Italy, 24-26 June,
2008.
Pedro Gonçalves, R. Fangueiro, H. Soutinho And M. Araújo, Composite Materials Reinforced By
Randomly Oriented Fibers, Autex Conference 2008, Biella, Italy, 24-26 June, 2008.
Picoli, J. & Guedes, M.G., Coolhunter: its methods of work, International Conference of Applied
Research in Textile, CIRAT-3, Tunisia, 2008,
R. Fangueiro, P. Nunes, F. Soutinho And M. De Araújo, Design of 3D Weft-Knitted Fibrous
Preforms For FRP Tube Connexions, 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics and their
Applications, Manchester, UK, 10-11 April, 2008.
2.3.4 Master and Ph.D. thesis completed
PhD Thesis
Desenvolvimento Interactivo Multidimensional – Contributo para o Aumento de
Competitividade das PMEs, Dout. em Engenharia Têxtil, Dez 2009, Orient: Graça Guedes,
Dout: Ana Luísa Soares.
Design – A construção contínua de competências, Dout. em Engenharia Têxtil, Dez 2009,
Orient: Graça Guedes, Dout: Alexandra Gomes.
Design de Estruturas de Malhas Multifuncionais – Optimização da Transferência de Líquidos,
Dout. em Engenharia Têxtil, Dez de 2009, Orient: Manuela Neves, Dout: Neil Filho.
MSc Thesis
A Tecnologia Multimédia como Diferencial Competitivo das Micro e Pequenas Organizações
Empresariais em Moda, Mest Design e Marketing, Jan 2009, Orient: Joana Cunha, Mest:
Adriana Matos.
As Novas Tecnologias no Ensino - módulo têxtil em Educação Visual e Tecnológica, Mest
Design e Marketing, Out 2009, Orient: Manuela Neves, Mest: Paula Brandão.
Contribuição para o Desenvolvimento de uma Etiqueta para Portadores de Deficiência Visual,
Mest Design e Marketing, Out 2009, Orient: Manuela Neves. Mest: Marise Barreto.
Desenvolvimento de Calçado Multifuncional para Atletas de Triatlo, Mest Engenharia
Industrial, FEUP, Set 2009, Orient: Raul Fangueiro, Mest: Clécio de Lacerda
Design Centrado no Utilizador – Um estudo de caso aplicado a crianças portadoras de paralisia
cerebral com baixa visão, Mest Design e Marketing, Nov 2009, Orienta: Joana Cunha, Mest:
Ana Márcia Salgado.
Design de Estruturas Fibrosas Híbridas para Aplicações Técnicas, Mest Design e Marketing, Set
2009, Orient: Raul Fangueiro, Mest: Carolina Dias.
Design de Estruturas Fibrosas para Aplicação na Construção Civil, Mest Design e Marketing,
Abril 2009, Orient: Raul Fangueiro, Mest: Paula Marques.
Design de Stents Híbridos Entrançados, Mest Design e Marketing, Set 2009, Orient: Raul
Fangueiro, Mest: Nívea Taís.
Design Funcional de Vestuário de Segurança, Mest Design e Marketing, Dez 2009, Orient: Raul
Fangueiro, Graça Guedes, Mest: Paulo Simões.
Design Inclusivo – Um Estudo de Caso: “Tocar para ver – Livros Infantis para Crianças Cegas ou
de Baixa Visão, Mest Design e Marketing, Nov 2009, Orient: Joana Cunha, Mest: Maria Leonor
Pereira.
Development of Hybrid Braided vascular Prostheses, Mest Europeu ETEAM, Jul 2009, Orient:
Raul Fangueiro, Mest: Aylin Tekin,
Influência de Diferentes Parâmetros Estruturais no Design de Malhas, Mest Int Engenharia
Têxtil, Nov 2009, Orient: Joana Cunha, Mest: José António Quinta.
Métodos e processos de criação de espaços expositivos em feiras internacionais – Aplicação à
área da moda, Mest Design e Marketing, Nov 2009, Orient: Graça Guedes, Mest: Nuno Sá Leal,
O Mercado da Moda Brasileira na Europa, Mest Design e Marketing, Mai 2009, Orient: Graça
Guedes, Mest: Erika Guimarães,
O Traje dos “Caretos” na Criação do Painel Ambiente no Design da Moda, Mest Design e
Marketing, Nov 2009, Orient: Joana Cunha, Mest: Maria Inês Bárrios.
Publicidade e Cor – Contribuição dos pigmentos interactivos com o ambiente. Mest Design e
Marketing, Jul 2009. Orient: Jorge Neves e Vasco Teixeira. Mest: Ascanio Abrantes.
Rendas Tradicionais Portuguesas, Nov 2009, Mest Design e Marketing, Orient: Manuela Neves,
Joana Cunha. Mest: Sandra Monteiro.
Study on the on-line monitoring capabilities of braided reinforced composite rods for concrete
reinforcements, Mest Europeu ETEAM, Jul 2009, Orient: Raul Fangueiro, Mest: Emilija
Zdraveva.
2.3.5 Patents/propotypes
Raul Fangueiro, Celso Carrilho, Juliana Luiz, Paula Marques, Prótese Vascular em Estrutura
Têxtil Entrançada com Ondulações e Respectivo Processo de Produção, pedido de patente nº
104067.
Graça Guedes, João Sena Esteves, H.Carvalho, Pasta Solar, Pedido de Registo de Desenho ou
Modelo n.º 973, publicado no Boletim da Propriedade Industrial n.º 78/2008 (editado em
18/04/2008), registo provisório concedido em 27/06/2008, Nº 973
2.3.6 Government/Organization contract research
Desenvolvimento de artigos seamless multifuncionais para a área da saúde e bem-estar, QREN,
24 m, 110000 €, Sonicarla
Desenvolvimento de elementos estruturais entrançados em material compósito para reforço e
monitorização do betão, POCTI CTM/60856/04, 36 m, 76000 €
Desenvolvimento de Estruturas Sandwich para reforço de compósitos, QREN, 24 m, 125000 €,
Castros e Marques
Desenvolvimento de novos fios à base de lã para aplicações inovadoras, SIME, 24 m, 125000 €,
FDG Development and characterization of needle-punched non-wovens, Groz-Beckert, 24 m,
155000 €, Groz Beckert
Development of textile/apparel oriented research/training co-operation network between
Europe and Asia by exchanging young teachers and postgraduate students, IN/ASIA-LINK/002
(82158), 48 m, 400000 €, ENSAIT (França), Univ. Minho, IIT (Índia), DongHua (China)
Mapeamento e estudo de fibras de espécies vegetais com empregabilidade têxtil, CYTED, 36
m, 140 000 €, Universidade de S. Paulo, Univ. de Buenos Aires, U.P.Catalunha
Modelo de Conforto Termico Aplicado ao Projecto de Vestuário, POCTIEME/62786/04 , 36 m,
20 000 €, DPS ; DEM
2.3.7 Future Objectives
The objectives of the group are the development of research activities in multidisciplinary
domains leading to new interdisciplinary areas, such as:
•Dermo materials and structures leading to skin maintenance, repair & enhancement;
•Advanced fibrous materials & structures for architectural & civil engineering applications;
•Advanced fibrous materials & structures for FRP applications;
•Technologies & management concepts for Mass Customization & Personalization in the
fibrous materials supply chains;
•Technologies and advanced management concepts for the Total Design of fibrous products.
The group will strive for international recognition as a “leading research group in the field of
fibrous materials product design”. This will be the consequence of planed actions in terms of
publications and research projects.
The research projects for the period are as follows:
•application of fibrous materials in civil construction, mainly for concrete reinforcement;
•the use of natural fibre reinforced composites and 3D performs for composite
reinforcements;
•mathematical modeling of fluid mechanics in fibrous assemblies;
•fashion brands communication and market trends;
•design competences development (curricula);
•design and development of multifunctional textile products for comfort and well being.