2008 - 2C2T - Universidade do Minho

CENTRE FOR TEXTILE SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY (2C2T) - 2008
1.1 Introduction
The Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T) is a research unit of Minho University.
The Centre started its activity in 1978, being the first unit of R&D in Portugal specialized in the
development of Science and Technology of textile materials and processes.
The Centre research activity is organized in three research groups, covering the domains of the
entire textile and apparel value chain, namely
•
Textile Physics,
•
Textile Chemistry,
•
Management, Design and Marketing.
Each research group is coordinated by a Principal Investigator nominated by the Unit
Coordinator. Researchers belong to a group according to their research activities.
The management structure of the Unit is composed by the Director (Unit Coordinator), the
Steering Committee, the Coordination Board and General Assembly.
The Director is elected among the senior doctorate members of the Unit and is responsible of
representing the Unit, nominate the Principal Investigators and ensure the management
activities.
The Steering Committee competences are mainly concerned with the approval of activity
reports and financial budget as well as decide on the organization and research activities
carried out within research groups.
The Coordination Board ensures the management of Research groups and is responsible to
elaborate the annual reports and propose the activity and budget plans.
The General Assembly is responsible to approve Centre Regulation and promote the elections
every two years.
The core-group involves 31 researchers working in the three above identified areas, 11 senior
scientists and 20 junior scientists. Several grant researchers were also involved.
1.2 Objectives
The vision and mission of 2C2T is to be the leading agent of industry’s change for global
competition, providing the knowledge base for the continuing viability of the textile and
apparel industries.
The general objectives of the Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T) are:
•
To contribute to the development of scientific and technological research in the textile
and apparel fields;
•
To collaborate with other Universities and Research Units in research activities and
post-graduated courses;
•
To contribute to scientific and technology transfer between national and international
organizations;
•
To develop activities of technical support for the community;
•
To conduct, participate and support research activities;
•
To organize seminars, conferences and lectures on related projects,
•
To conduct experimental and research studies, to prepare scientific projects, reports
and documents;
•
To make publications;
•
To participate in directing and coordinating research activities;
To accomplish this, the unit adopts a multidisciplinary approach in carrying out research work
within the university and also in collaboration with foreign universities, research institutions
and companies, covering the complete textile and apparel supply chain.
The main areas of research, according the competences of the Unit and the needs of this
specific domain of activity, are focused in several fields, namely on Conductive Textile
Polymers, Process Monitoring and Control, Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials
(microcapsules to textiles and footwear, new methods for application of dyes and
biofunctionalisation of textiles), Fibre Bioprocesses (enzyme science, biological process on
renewable materials, enzymatic processing of textiles), Sustainable Processing and Finishing
of Textile Materials (plasmatic discharge in textile processing, reusable medical textiles,
advanced techniques for textile effluents treatment), 3D Shaped Textile Preforms for
Composites and New Product Design Methodologies for Customization.
Dissemination of results through conferences’ organization and the establishment of
cooperation protocols involving research, knowledge and technology transfer with
international and national organizations are other activities carried out by the Unit to promote
excellence.
To promote public interest on textile-related research and education and to support training
the Unit has been producing papers in journals and presenting communications in
international and national seminars, as well as, technical manuals.
1.3 Main Achievements
2C2T has been involved worldwide in the development of textile and clothing science and
technology, with interest in subjects that are more relevant to the industry’s competitiveness.
In a broad sense, it can be referred that those subjects are related with Advanced Materials,
Technical Textiles, Equipment Development, Quick Response Strategies and other emergent
technologies. Therefore the goals are centered in the development of innovative solutions in
strategic and emergent areas involving the textile chain:
•
Development of new materials /products.
•
Innovative and improved manufacturing processes, methods, equipments and
integrated systems.
•
Development of supporting technologies to materials/product engineering.
•
Development of new design methodologies, management and product marketing.
ensuring the utilization of the developed solutions through knowledge and technology
transfer.
In the field of materials/product innovation, the research projects are mainly oriented towards
the design and development of functional/multifunctional textiles (smart textiles), reactive
(bio-functional textiles), active (self-regulating textiles) and interactive (electronic textiles)
applied to:
•
Protection, Safety, Occupational Health
•
Automotive
•
Construction
•
Health (Medical)
•
Social Inclusion
In the area of innovative and flexible production processes, the research projects are currently
focused in the knitting and sewing sectors, enzymatic processes, micro encapsulation, plasma
and 3D preforms, concerning the development of equipments, processes and systems for
monitoring and real-time process control devices to impart quality and productivity.
In the supporting technologies area for product engineering the research projects are
essentially oriented to the development of equipment to evaluate or improve
materials/products quality and properties, as well as, to design and engineer new products.
Concerning new management methodologies, design and marketing, the projects are mainly
focused on methods and integrated systems for new and high added-value products design
and on the conception of new market labels, innovative in terms of design, materials,
production technologies and process management (design / production / distribution /
retailing) .
The great majority of projects is developed in collaborative partnerships with other UM
research units, institutions and enterprises, involving national or international
multidisciplinarity.
This approach significantly contributed to develop synergies and stimulate research carried out
using internal resources and/or external financing resulting in national and international
funded projects.
The activity of the unit can be quantified by the following indicators:
6 books and chapters of books, 53 publications in international journals, 5 publications in
national journals, 104 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 7
communications in national conferences, 6 organization of seminars and conferences, 7
doctoral and 27 masters theses concluded, 31 doctoral and 40 master theses in progress, 6
patent, supported on 48 funded projects and other non funded projects, promoted by FCT
funding.
Reference must also be made for several cooperation protocols signed with companies, for
technical support or product development.
The Textile and Clothing Industries are in nature multidisciplinary involving multiple
competences, concerning product, processes and equipment development, design,
management and marketing, among others.
Therefore research projects integrated multiple scientific and technological domains and
research teams involve members from different research Units, namely with researchers from
electronics, mechanics, materials, physics, chemistry and biology, from internal or external
institutions, as can be seen in the list of projects and publications presented in this report.
In order to promote cross disciplinary research, non formal meetings between members of
distinct research centres were organized and encouraged. In this regard, some concrete
actions were taken, namely through the funding that was allocated to preliminary research
studies in subjects involving at least three different domains (In2Tec projects).
Besides research, 2C2T promotes research training leading to technology and knowledge
transfer across different domains through the participation and promotion of Master Courses.
Also 2C2T members are collaborating in other Master Courses, namely on those promoted by
School of Engineering. Another type of dissemination that is being followed is Industrial thesis
made by first degree students. Relative to this strategy, cooperation protocol between the
leading textile associations (ATP, Anivec) the Ordem dos Engenheiros (Portuguese engineer’s
chamber) and the Portuguese Employment and Training Institute – IEFP, to promote the
cooperation between the industry and university, towards sustainable competitiveness. In the
period, 7 PhD Thesis and 27 MSc Thesis were produced, must of them in collaboration with
other departments and with industry.
1.4 Dissemination
Dissemination is a key factor to diffuse Unit activities and at the same time to promote
excellence. The purposes of the outreach activities carried out by the research unit were:
•
Raise awareness of the research carried out
•
Inform the community
•
Promote projects results and engage other researchers and stakeholders
The main target audiences were the scientific community, the media, the industry, the
institution and government.
The outreach activities carried out by the Unit comprised:
-Presentation of the research works developed in well-known international and national
conferences to share the achievements with experts in the field (104 communications in
international conferences (proceedings), 7 communications in national conferences);
- Publication in peer-reviewed journal articles to inform the scientific community of the
achievements of the Unit research (53 publications in international journals, 5 publications in
national journal);
- Participation in technical events through posters, leaflets, brochures and prototype
demonstrations to show the progress and developments achieved to a larger community,
including stakeholders,
- Organization of technical workshops and seminars to raise awareness and promote Unit
research (6 organization of seminars and conferences);
- Organization and participation on institution workshops to informe the internal scientific
community on research progress
- Public speakers, roundtable discussions to raise awareness of the importance of innovation in
the textile and clothing sectors to the national and European economy
- Articles in magazines, newspapers and TV programs to disseminate and promote the work to
the public community
- Institution and Unit website to disseminate the most relevant and updated information about
Unit activities (www.uminho.pt, www.2c2t.uminho.pt)
2. RESEARCH GROUPS
Reference
Title
RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1786
Textile Physics
RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1787
Textile Chemistry
RG-MATE-Norte-Braga-264-1789
Management, Design and Marketing
2.1 Research Group Title: Textile Physics
Research Group Title: Textile Physics
Principal Investigator: Maria Elisabete Martins Paiva Monteiro Cabeço Silva
Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering
2.1.1 Objectives
The Textile Physics research group is a founding component of 2C2T whose objectives include:
•
Development of flexible and intelligent process control systems;
•
Development of new equipment to evaluate or improve materials/products quality
and properties, as well as, to design and engineer new products;
•
Development and innovation of high-tech multifunctional textiles integrating new
materials and processes.
The major emphasis of the group has been on the development of technological solutions for
practical problems of the Portuguese and European Textile Industries, together with process
and product innovation to expand these industries to non-traditional markets.
Established and newly developed devices for monitoring and real-time control are being used
on the study of the dynamic behaviour and fault prediction of sewing and knitting processes.
Similarly, developed textile support equipment is being used to design, improve and evaluate
materials and products properties, performance and behaviour, under multiaxial stresses, and
to establish performance standards for raw materials and yarn production based on the use of
prediction and decision-support tools.
More recently the group has been active in the development of textile-based products
integrating electronic systems (e-textiles, i-textiles) for protection, safety (i-protect) and
personal empowerment (i-vest) applications, textiles with improved functionality for O.R.
theatres (medical textiles) and textiles and clothing for physiological comfort. Studies on
sensory analysis of textiles are also being conducted to assess handle and predict total comfort
properties.
The group explores several research approaches ranging from fundamental to applied research
with special emphasis on textile-related problems.
2.1.2 Main Achievements
The Textile Physics group adopts a multidisciplinary approach in carrying out research work
within the university and also in collaboration with foreign universities, research institutions
and companies. The core-group involves 10 researchers working in the three above identified
areas, 3 senior scientists and 7 junior scientists.
This approach significantly contributed to develop synergies and stimulate research carried out
using internal resources and/or external financing resulting in 16 national and international
funded projects, which contributed to the following productivity indicators:
2 books and chapters of books, 16 publications in international journals, 5 publications in
national journals, 34 communications in international conferences (proceedings), 5
communications in national conferences, 1 doctoral and 9 master theses concluded, 1 pos-doc
supervision, 9 doctoral and 15 master theses in progress, 1 patent and 10 research grants.
Dissemination of results through conference’s organization and the establishment of
cooperation protocols involving research, knowledge and technology transfer with
international and national organizations from the public and private sectors are other activities
carried out by the group to promote excellence. In this regard we highlight the participation in
the organization of the international conferences dedicated to applied textile research taking
place in Tunisia and Mozambique and the cooperation protocols with a spanish technological
research centre (Gaiker) in the area of conductive polymers, and in the area of process
monitoring and control.with a chinese sewing machine company manufacturer (Zoje Machine
Company, Lda) and two german institutions (Innomas and Steinbeis transferzentrum) and in
the area of textile comfort a protocol with a French research laboratory (Laboratoire de
Physique et Mécanique Textile).
To promote public interest on textile-related research and education and to support training
the group has been producing papers in journals and presenting communications in
international and national seminars, as well as, technical manuals.
2.1.3 Publications in peer review Journals
Some examples:
Almeida L.S; Vasconcelos, R. M ,- “Ensino Superior em Portugal : décadas de profundas
exigências e mudanças”, Innovación Educativa, nº18,2008. ISSN 1130-8656). p23-34.
C.Nogueira, M.E.Cabeço-Silva, L.Schacher, D.Adolphe - Sensory Expressions for Textile
Materials Design, Journal of Sensory Studies
Carvalho, V., Monteiro, J.L.; Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F, O, “Yarn evenness parameters
evaluation: A new approach”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 78, Issue 2, p.119-127, February
2008.
Carvalho, V., Belsey. M., Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F. O “ A Comparative Study Between Yarn
Diameter and Yarn Mass Variation Measurement Systems Using Capacitive and Optical
Sensors”, Indian Journal of Fibres & Textile Research, Vol. 33, June 2008, pp.119-125
Carvalho, V., Belsey. M., Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F. O, “Yarn Hairiness and Diameter
Characterization Using a CMOS Line Array”, Measurement, Vol. 41, Issue 10, December 2008,
pp.1077-1092.
Carvalho, V.; Cardoso, P.; Belsey, M.; Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F. O. Soares, “Yarn Diameter
Measurements Using Coherent Optical Signal Processing”, IEEE Sensors Journal, Vol. 8, Issue
11, November 2008, pp.1785-1793..
Carvalho, V.; Cardoso, P.; Belsey, M.; Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, O. F..-, “Yarn Hairiness
Parameterization Using a Coherent Signal Processing Technique”, Sensors and Actuators A.,
Volume 142, Issue 1, p.217-224, March 2008.
H. Carvalho, A.M.Rocha, J. L. Monteiro, Measurement and analysis of needle penetration
forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine, Journal of the Textile Institute, Julho 2008
L. Jiménez , A.M. Rocha, I. Aranberria, J.A. Covas , A.P. Catarino, Electrically Conductive
Monofilaments For Smart Textiles, Advances in Science and Technology Vol. 60 (2008) pp 5863
Lima, M; Vasconcelos, R.; Abreu, M. J.; Silva, M. E. - Comparative Study of Friction Coefficient
in Nonwovens applied for Non Active Medical Devices, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, ISSN: 13003356.
M.A.F. Carvalho, F.N. Ferreira, H. Carvalho, J.G. Rocha, L.B. Martins, J.A. Santos, Monitoring
and control system of discomfort in disability, bed rest people and surgical patients, Advances
in Science and Technology Vol. 60 (2008) pp 164-169, Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland,
Setembro 2008
P. Alpuim; P.F. Rocha; S. Lanceros-Mendez; E.S. Marins; I.G. Trindade, J.G. Rocha, M.A.F.
Carvalho - Ultra-Sensitive Shape Sensor Test Structures Based On Piezo-Resistive Doped
Nanocrystalline Silicon. Vacuum
Pamuk, O., Abreu, M. J., Ondogan, Z. – An Investigation on the Comfort Properties for different
Disposable Surgical Gowns by using a Thermal Manikin, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, p. 236-239,
vol.18 (3), 2008, ISSN: 1300-3356.
Pamuk, O., Abreu, M. J., Ondogan, Z. – Tensile Strength Properties of Woven and Nonwoven
Surgical Gown Fabrics, Tekstil. Journal of Textile and Clothing Technology, Publisher: Croatian
Association of Textile Engineers. ISSN 0492-5882
Pamuk, O., Ondogan, Z., Abreu, M. J. – The Thermal Comfort Properties of Reusable and
Disposable Surgical Gown Fabrics, Tekstilec (Journal for Textile and Clothing Technology,
Design and Marketing). ISSN: 0351-3386
V. Carvalho, P. Cardoso, M. Belsley, R. Vasconcelos, F. O. Soares, “Yarn Hairiness
Characterization Using Two Orthogonal Directions”, IEEE Transactions on Instrumentation and
Measurement (2008)
2.1.4 Other International publications
Some examples:
A. C. Broega, M. E. Cabeço Silva - The Comfort Performance of Wool Light Fabrics Based on
Subjective, Objective Evaluation, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX - World Textile Conf
AUTEX2008, Biella, Italy, Jun 2008
C. Nogueira, M.E. Cabeço-Silva, L.Schacher, D. Adolphe - Structured or Non-structured scale:
what is the best Scale for the Human Sensation Measurement?, 3 CIRAT- Int Conf of Applied
Research in Textile, Tunisia, Nov, 2008
Carvalho, M.A.F.; Ferreira, F.B.N.; Carvalho, H.; Rocha, J.G.; Martins, L.B.; Santos, J.A. Monitoring and Control System of Discomfort in Disability, Bed Rest People and Surgical
Patients, CIMTEC 2008, Acireale, Sicily, Italy, June, 2008
Carvalho, V., Besley, M, Vasconcelos, R. M.; Soares, F, O, , Automatic Yarn Characterization
System, 7th lEEE Conf on Sensors, Leece, Italy, Oct 2008, pp780-783
H. Carvalho, Luís F. Silva,J.Monteiro, A.Rocha, Parameter Monitoring and Control in industrial
sewing machines - IEEE Int Conf Industrial Engineering, CD-ROM, ISBN 978-1-4244-1706-3,
IEEE, Chengdu, China, ABril 2008
Hattum-Janssen, N.; Vasconcelos, R. M..- The Role of the Tutor in Project-Led Education: The
Development of an Evaluation Instrument, INTERTECH2008, Março 2008. Peruíbe,Brasil pp 2731.
Heinrich, D.P.; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Barroso, M.F. - Ergonomics, Anthropometrics and Clothing Fit
– Discussion and analysis of impact upon comfort and quality. CIM 2008 – Congresso Int de
Moda, Madrid, Espanha, Out 2008.
J.G. Rocha, H. Carvalho, F.M. Duarte, M. A. F. Carvalho, V.M. Moreira, System Providing
Discomfort Monitoring for People in Wheelchairs, IEEE Int Symposium on Industrial
Electronics, pp 961-966, Cambridge, UK, Julho 2008
L. Jiménez , A.M. Rocha, I. Aranberria, J.A. Covas , A.P. Catarino, Electrically Conductive
Monofilaments for Smart Textiles, 3rd Int Conf. “Smart Materials, Structures and Systems”,
Sicily, Italy, June, 2008.
L. Schacher, D. Adolphe, M. J. Abreu – Functional Textile :Medical Application. Evaluation
AERES du Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique Textiles, UMR 7189 CNRS-UHA,Mulhouse,
França, Fev. 2008.
M. J. Abreu - Validation of the thermal comfort behaviour of active wear through thermal
manikin measurements. 2nd International Scientific Conference 'Textiles of the Future,
Kortrijk, Bélgica, Nov. Edição em CD.
M. J. Abreu, M. E. Silva – Simulation of Real Time Ageing using Artificial Ageing of Medical
Devices. 5º Congresso Luso-Moçambicano de Engenharia, Moçambique, Set 2008.
M.J. Abreu, C. Nogueira, M. E. Cabeço Silva, L. Schacher, D. Adolphe – Measurement of Tactile
Sensation using the human being as instruments. Fiber Society 2008 Spring Conference.
Mulhouse, França, Maio 2008. Proceedings p. 153-154.
Rocha, J.G.; Carvalho, H.; Duarte, F.M.; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Moreira, V.M. - System Providing
Discomfort Monitoring for People in Wheelchairs. IEEE Int Symposium on Industrial
Electronics. ISIE’08 – Canbridge, UK, July, 2008.
Taciana V.Viana, H. Carvalho, Tecnologia digital para o comércio eletrônico do vestuário Digital Technology for fashion e-commerce, (P&D Design 2008), São Paulo, Brasil, Out 2008
Vasconcelos, R. M.; Monteiro, S.- Observatory of Graduates in Engineering and Technologies of
the University of Minho INTERTECH2008, Março 2008. Peruíbe,Brasil– ISBN 85-89120-55-4, pp
6-8.
Woltz, S.T.; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Vestuário inclusivo: a adaptação do vestuário às pessoas com
necessidades especiais. 4º Colóquio de Moda, Novo Hamburgo, Brasil, Out 2008
2.1.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis
PhD Thesis
Ana Cristina da Luz Broega, “Contribuição para a Definições de Padrões de Conforto de Tecido
Finos de Lã”, Tese de Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil - ramo de especialização em Física
Têxtil, Universidade do Minho, 21 de Janeiro de 2008.
Sistema Automático de Caracterização do Fio Têxtil, Julho 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia
Industrial, Doutorando: Vítor Hugo Mendes da Costa Carvalho, Orientador: Filomena Soares,
Co-orientação: RosaVasconcelos
MSc Thesis
Contribuição para a Medição Objectiva e Subjectiva do Toque em Malhas de Trama, Dezembro
2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Maria Joana Beltrão Franco
Martins, Orientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos
Desenvolvimento de duas Aplicações de Controlo da Velocidade de um Motor de Corrente
Contínua: Industrial e Pedagógica. Setembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia
Electrónica Industrial e Computadores, Mestrando: Vítor Manuel Oliveira da Silva, Coorientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos
Estudo da Costurabilidade com Fios Condutores, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia
Têxtil, Dezembro de 2008, Mestrando: António Manuel Almeida, Orientador: Fernando Nunes
Ferreira.
Estudo da Influência das Variáveis de Processo nas Propriedades Mecânicas e Térmicas de
Não-Tecidos Agulhados para Vestuário, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em
Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Marta Fernandes, Orientador: Ana Maria Rocha
Influência da Tecnologia de Fiação Compact fibra longa, no desempenho de fios funcionais,
Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Joaquim
Fernando Marques dos Santos Leal, Orientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos
Novos paradigmas para a gestão de informação na indústria de confecção, Dezembro 2008,
Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Marta Alexandra Peixoto
Ferreira, Orientador: Hélder Manuel Teixeira Carvalho
Estudo de obstáculos na ampliação do Mercado da Moda através da Web, Fevereiro 2008,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Taciana Viana, Orientador: Hélder Carvalho.
Optimização do Vestuário Cirúrgico através do Estudo Termofisiológico, Novembro de 2008,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Iara Mesquita da Silva Braga, Orientador: Maria
José Marques Abreu.
2.1.6 Organization of conferences
Cabeço Silva, M. E. - "7th International Thermal Manikin Modeling Meeting", Coimbra,
Portugal, Setembro, 2008
Elisabete Cabeço Silva, M. E. - 3 CIRAT- International Conference of Applied Research in Textile,
Sousse, Tunisia, November, 2008
Maria José Abreu e Maria Elisabete Cabeço Silva - Dispositivos Médicos e Materiais de
Cuidados de Saúde, Simpósia Clme'2008, Maputo, Moçambique, Setembro, 2008
Maria José Abreu, Colaboração na Exposição Tecnologia com Arte- 2º Edição. Museu Alberto
Sampaio
2.1.7 Industry contract research
CMR Sul - Centro de Medicina e Reabilitação do Sul/GPSaúde - Sociedade Gestora do CMRSul,
S.A. - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso.
CMRA - Centro de Medicina e Reabilitação de Alcoitão - Unidade de Fisioterapia, Área de
Músculo-Esqueléticas - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso
Fareleiros, SA, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
FIBERSENSING, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
HSM - Hospital de São Marcos - Centro de Reabilitação Física - Colaboração nos projectos de
investigação em curso.
Industrias Somelos, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
ISAVE - Instituto Superior de Saúde do Alto Ave - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação
em curso
LACATONI, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
Rafael Freitas (Estilista) - Colaboração nos projectos de investigação em curso.
Woolmark Company - cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
Zoje Sewing Machine Co. Lda (China), Protocolo de cooperação no âmbito da investigação e
desenvolvimento de máquinas de costura.
2.1.8 Internationalization
The Textile Physics group is involved with the most important universities, such as Autex
(Association of European Textile Universities), centres of research and companies in
multidisciplinary teams, in a national or international basis, guarantying the dissemination of
projects results within academic and industrial communities. Contracts within cooperation
protocols with individuals and companies provide shared access to technologies, entries into
proprietary research and a rapid response team for national and international initiatives.
The participation in international networks of experts and research institutions, such as the
European Technology European Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing, dealing with
intelligent and smart textiles, standardisation, new material and product development opened
new innovation opportunities that consolidated the involvement in Research Projects at
European level.
The textile physics team is also active in research and scholarly collaboration with international
PhD students, graduate student mobility, faculty-staff programs for research, international
conferences and workshops, international PhD and MSc juries, joint publications, joint degree
programs, invited lectures, PhDs co-supervision, reviewer in international journals and
conferences and participates in the evaluation and technical follow-up of textile based
research projects for the European Commission.
2.1.9 Other publications National
C. Nogueira, M.E. Silva, M. J. Abreu, L. Schacher – Avaliação Sensorial de Produtos Têxteis.
Jornal de Ciências Cognitivas. Sociedade Portuguesa de Ciências Cognitivas. Janeiro 2008. ISSN
1646-365X
H.Carvalho, Elisa Machado, Os Pontos de Costura – As classes 100 e 200 (Parte 2), Revista
Moda e Confecção, pp 38-42, Edição nrº 45, Julho de 2008, Editora Publindustria
H.Carvalho, Elisa Machado, Os Pontos de Costura – As classes 300 e 400 (Parte 3), Revista
Moda e Confecção, pp 20-24, Edição nrº 46, Outubro de 2008, Editora Publindustria
H.Carvalho, Elisa Machado, Os Pontos de Costura – Classificação e Características (Parte 1),
Revista Moda e Confecção, pp 24-26, Edição nrº 44, Abril de 2008, Editora Publindustria
P. Mendonça, H. Carvalho, Optimização da Geometria de Sobreadores de Lâminas Fixas,
Revista Casas e Negócios, pp 44-45, Edição nrº25, braga, Abril de 2008, Editora JPJ
Alpuim, P; Carvalho, M.A.F.; Trindade, I; Marins, E.; Rocha, P.F.; Rocha, J.G.; Lanceros-Mendez,
S. - Strain-sensors arrays for e-textiles and health care. Technology Open Day 2008: Health and
Food Technologies. Braga - Campus de Gualtar. 6 de junho de 2008. (Comunicação convidada).
Carvalho, M.A.F.; Santos, J.A.; Rocha, J.G.; Duarte, F.M.; Moreira, V.M. - Sense4me Monitoring system of discomfort in disability, bed rest people and surgical patients.
Technology Open Day 2008: Health and Food Technologies. Braga - Campus de Gualtar. 6 de
Junho de 2008. (Comunicação convidada).
Carvalho, M.A.F.; Woltz, S.T.; Oliveira, A.L.G. - Vestuário - Adaptação à Limitação Funcional. II
Jornadas de Fisioterapia Músculo-Esquelética, Centro de Medicina de Reabilitação de Alcoitão,
9 e 10 de Maio de 2008 (Comunicação convidada). (Texto completo).
M. J. Abreu, A. Coelho – O Papel dos Dispositivos Médicos Não Activos na Saúde Ocupacional
dos seus Utilizadores. 7º Congresso Nacional de Saúde Ocupacional. Póvoa de Varzim,
Portugal, 13 a 15 de Maio de 2008., http://www.spso.pt/comunicalivres.php
M. J. Abreu; R. Vasconcelos - Ensino por Projecto: Desenho metodológico. Seminário “O
Processo de Bolonha na Universidade do Minho. Orientações e Práticas”. Braga, 26 de Maio de
2008. Edição em CD.
2.1.10 Government/Organization contract research
Análise Sensorial de Produtos Têxteis, PESSOA 141710PC, 2 anos, 4500 €, ENSISA/UHA
Aprendizagem Centrada no Aluno à luz do processo de Bolonha: a Inclusão integrada das
competências Transversais, Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian , (92772), 60000
BIOSWIM - Sistema de Interface Corporal Integrada em Vestuário para Monitorização de
Sinais, PTDC EEA-ELC/70803/06, 3 anos, 98381 €, FCDEF UP, INESC-Porto
ETP@Textile&Clothing.pt, POCI 2010 Med.V./021/06 , 18 meses, 40000 €, Citeve
Factores de Abandono e de Insucesso Escolar na Universidade do Minho, POCI 2010, Medida
IV.1, Acção IV.1.2, 38.321,12 €
FRICTORQ, AI-POCTI -I&D, 93881 €
INTELTEX – Intelligent Multi-reactive textiles integrating nano-filler based CPC fibers, IPNMP2CT-2006-026626, 4 anos, 365 000 €, Nanocyl, Eurodye, Minerva, Protensive, Multitel,
Arlen, Tissa, Edana, Alma, ENSAIT, TUL, UBS, QMUL, IPFDD, Peratech
ITT – Innovative Textile Transfer, Leonardo da Vinci, 2 anos, 30 000 €, Univ. Leeds, Klitra, TEI
Piraeus, Riga Univ, Iasi Univ, Univ. Maribor
Playvest, QREN, 2 anos, 190 000 €
Promoção do Sucesso Escolar e Combate ao Abandono e ao Insucesso na Universidade do
Minho POCI 2010, Medida IV.1, Acção IV.1., 120.839,45 €
Realização de Fios Têxteis com Propriedades Piezoeléctricas, In2Tec, 2 anos, 10 000 €
Rede de sensores de deformação para electro-têxteis e cuidados de saúde,
PTDC/CTM/66558/2006, 30 meses, 105 100 €, Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade do
Porto, Dep.Física /Dep. Psicologia, UMinho
Sense4me – Sistema de monitorização de desconforto/dor em deficientes físicos , IN2TEC, 24
meses, 10.000 €, Hospital São Marcos, APD-Associação Portuguesa de Deficientes
Sense4me - Sistema de monitorização e controlo de desconforto em deficientes físicos,
PTDC/SAU-BEB/68678/06, 36 meses, 146.603 €, Hospital São Marcos, APD-Associação
Portuguesa de Deficientes
Somelos, 3 meses, 13000 €, Somelos
TREE- Teaching and Research in Engineering in Europe-Socrates, 36m, 574.376 € (global), TU
Berlin; TU of Civil Eng., Bucharestt;AGH U. Sc. & Techn., Cracow; Politecnico (TU) of Torino
2.1.11 Future Objectives
The future objectives of the Textile Physics research group rely mainly on the research areas
previously defined that represent a medium-long term group strategy. In this context, the
prioritization of the research areas was also defined and in the past was mainly focused on the
development of flexible and intelligent process control systems and new equipment. In the
short term, the group is mainly targeting the research challenge that is subjacent to the
development and innovation of high–tech multifunctional textiles and the development of
technologies with specially designed modifications for this new generation of textiles. This can
be assessed by the on-going projects in which the group members are involved and in the
publications that are being submitted/accepted.
Internationalisation continues to be a goal, either through the consolidation of networks of
experts and research institutions, either through the involvement in European standardisation
institutions and in international committees. Industrial contracts within cooperation protocols
with individuals and companies to promote technology and knowledge transfer, as well as, the
establishment of a training international network in the area of High-Tech Textiles (a Master
course started in 2007/08) are short-term goals of the group.
The Textile Physics group enjoys effective and well-established mechanisms for knowledge and
technology transfer to industry. The projects support graduate students that represent an
important vehicle for knowledge transfer. By emphasizing team-based interdisciplinary
research within the group, students are trained in a mode that is critically important to
meeting the complex, fast-moving challenges of industry.
New materials with switchable and adaptive properties, integration of microsystems in textiles
and textile-based sensors, open a huge field for the development of new constructions which
will be integrated in applications for technical and protective textiles. They will be developed
for the use in medical/empowerment clothing, surgical textiles in operation theatre,
protection and sports wear, clean room textiles and automotive textiles.
The production of all these innovative materials and constructions will be reached with new
and/or adapted processes in textile production industry.
2.2 Research Group Title: Textile Chemistry
Research Group Title: Textile Chemistry
Principal Investigator: JAIME ISIDORO NAYLOR DA ROCHA GOMES
Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering
2.2.1 Objectives
The Textile Chemistry Group is organized under the concept of integrated research work
covering transversal fields of interest in the areas of textile polymers and textile processing.
The major emphasis as been fundamental knowledge in textile related sciences and industrial
applications, towards development of environmentally friendly finishing processes and
functional products.
The activity is highly internationalized through a collaborative effort with the most important
worldwide universities, research centres, enterprises, individually or inside networks,
connected with running projects or those concerning forthcoming goals. The participation of
the Textile Chemistry Group in international networks of experts, research institutions dealing
with intelligent and smart textiles and European standardisation concerning multifunctional
textiles and functionalisation of textiles, opens wide chances to be on top of the wage in which
concerns innovation opportunities.
Three main research areas are active: Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials, Fibre
Bioprocesses, Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials
Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials domain has been active in dye chemistry and
adsorption (synthesis of new catalysts for degradation of dyes in effluents), controlled delivery
of substances (liposomes and microcapsules), interactive textile materials (PCM-phase change
materials) and active textiles (anti-bacterial textiles).
In which concerns Fibre Bioprocesses area, intensive work has been produced regarding
mechanisms of enzyme’s application in textile processing, namely by modification of natural
and synthetic fibrous polymers.
Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials concerns plasmatic surface
treatments in order to radically change finishing processes and products, with high level of
effects, , higher durability, lower costs and less products; electrochemical technologies,
advanced oxidation processes and modification of membranes for wastewater treatments are
contributions to sustainable solutions for textile industry pollution problems; development of
new materials for reusable medical textiles with increased resistance to washing, drying,
sterilisation has also been the aim of important developments.
2.2.2. Main Achievements
Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials provided projects in innovative application of
microcapsules in textile and footwear industry. 7 projects with and without external funding,
concerning production and degradation of dyes, new methods for application of dyes and
biofunctionalisation of textiles, are active. 2 publications in international journals and 7
communications in international congresses and conferences were achieved.
Fibre Bioprocesses concerned 4 funded projects with international links with centres of
knowledge in enzyme science regarding biological detergents, biological process on renewable
materials, enzymatic treatment of wool, functionalisation of medical textiles, enzymatic
processing of textiles with ultrasounds and enzymatic modification of synthetic fibres. 12
publications in international journals, 3 doctoral thesis concluded, 7 doctoral theses in
progress and 2 patents are the most significant productivity indicators.
Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials concerned 7 national and
international funded projects, regarding plasmatic discharge in textile processing of cellulosic
materials and industrial prototype, reusable medical textiles and advanced techniques for
textile effluents treatment. 1 chapter of book, 4 articles in international journals, 14
communications in international conferences, 5 master theses concluded, 3 doctoral and 8
master theses in progress and 1 patent were the main productivity indicators.
As global results of Textile Chemistry Group, 1 chapter of book, 18 articles in international
journals, 21 communications in international conferences, 3 doctoral and 5 master theses
concluded, 10 doctoral and 8 master theses in progress, 3 patents and 18 projects were
produced.
2.2.3. Publications in peer review Journals
Almeida L., co-autor do livro Implementação de sistemas integrados de gestão – Qualidade,
Ambiente e Segurança, Ed Publindústria, Junho 2008, ISBN 978-972-8933-26-3, 158 p
A Eberl, S Heumann, R Kotek, F Kaufmann, S Mitsche, A Cavaco-Paulo, GM Gübitz, enzymatic
hydrolysis of ptt polymers and oligomers, Journal of Biotechnology, 2008, 135(1):45-51
Almeida L., Functionalisation of textiles - Future perspectives, artigo publicado a partir de 18
de Março de 2008 no portal www.fibre2fashion.com
António Morão, M. T. Pessoa de Amorim, Ana Lopes, Isabel Escobar, João A. Queiroz, (2008)
“Characterisation of ultrafiltration and nanofiltration membranes from rejections of neutral
reference solutes using a model of asymmetric pores”Journal of Membrane Science, Volume
319, Issues 1-2, 1 July, Pages 64-75
Araújo, R., Cavaco- Paulo, A., Casal, M., Strategies towards the functionalization of subtilisin E
from Bacillus subtilis for wool finishing applications, Engineering in Life Sciences, 2008, 8 (3),
pp. 238-249
Carla Silva, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, biotransformations in synthetic fibres, Biocatalysis and
Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 350-356
E Almansa, S Heumann, A Eberl, F Kaufmann, A Cavaco-Paulo, GM Gübitz, Surface hydrolysis of
polyamide with a new polymidase from beauveria brongniartii, Biocatalysis and
Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 371-377
E Almansa, S Heumann, A Eberl, G Fischer-Colbrie, L Martinkova, J Marek, A Cavaco-Paulo, GM
Gübitz, nzymatic surface hydrolysis of pet enhances bonding in pvc coating, Biocatalysis and
Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 365-370
FD Munteanu, P Ferreira, FJ Ruiz-Dueñas, AT Martínez, A Cavaco-Paulo, “Bioelectro chemical
investigations of aryl-alcohol oxidase from pleurotus eryngii”, Journal of Electroanalytical
Chemistry, 2008, 1-2(1):83-86
G.M. Guebitz, A Cavaco-Paulo, Enzymes go big: surface hydrolysis and functionalisation of
synthetic polymers, Trends In Biotechnology, (2008); 26 (1):32-38
Graça Soares, Raquel Vieira, Jorge Santos, Pablo Pereira, Maria Costa Ferreira, Jaime Gomes Optimization of Application Procedure for Fixation of Monocationic Salt onto Cotton with
Antibacterial Activity, Fibers and Polymers
Jorge G. Santos, Graça M. B. Soares, Radim Hrdina, Ana M. F. Oliveira-Campos, Jaime I. N. R.
Gomes. A study on the spectral changes of reactive textile dyes during dyeing processes and
their implications on online control procedures. Coloration Technology
Kim, S., López, C., Güebitz, G., Cavaco-Paulo, A Biological coloration of flax fabrics with
flavonoids using laccase from Trametes hirsutA, Engineering in Life Sciences, 2008, 8 (3), pp.
324-330
López, C., Cavaco-Paulo, A. In-situ enzymatic generation of hydrogen peroxide for bleaching
purposes, Engineering in Life Sciences 2008, 8 (3), pp. 315-323
N. Carneiro, A. Souto, F. Forster, F. Fernandes, F. Oliveira, P. Dias, “La Maquina de Plasma DBD
en el Procesamiento a Mojado del Material Textil”, Revista de la Asociacion Espanola de
Quimicos y Coloristas
R Silva, C Little, H Ferreira, A Cavaco-Paulo, incorporation of peptides in phospholipid
aggregates using ultrasound, Ultrasonics Sonochemistry, 2008, 15(6):1026-1032
Rita Araújo, Margarida Casal, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, application of enzymes for textile fibres
processing, Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 2008, 26(5): 332-349
Vasconcelos A, Freddi G, Cavaco-Paulo A., Biodegradable materials based on silk fibroin and
keratin, Biomacromolecules. 2008 9(4):1299-305
2.2.4 Other International publications
Some examples:
A. Morão, J: Nunes, F.Sousa, M. T. Pessoa de Amorim, I. Escobar, J. Queiroz (2008) “Modeling
of Supercoiled Plasmid DNA Transmission Through an Ultrafiltration Membrane” ICOM – Int
Cong on Membranes and Membranes Processes, Julho 2008, Honolulu, Hawai
Almeida L., Eco-Friendly Textile Production, CIRAT 3 - International Conference of Applied
Research in Textile, Sousse, Tunísia, Nov 2008, conferência plenária convidada
Carneiro, N.; Souto, A.P.; Fernandes, F.; Dias, P.; Oliveira, F. – A DBD Plasma Machine in Textile
Wet Processing, Proceedings of 21st IFATCC International Congress, Barcelona, Espanha, May
2008
F. Oliveira, N. Carneiro, A. Souto, P. Dias, “Reactive Dyeing of Polyamide 6.6 by Plasmatic
Modification”, CIRAT- III, Nov 2008, Sousse, Tunísia
Jaime Rocha Gomes, Nanoparticles for controlled delivery of aqueous bleaching, antibacterial
and therapeutical products, Nanotechnology 2008-Techconnect Summit, Boston Junho 1-5
Jorge Santos, Elisabete Oliveira, Jaime Rocha Gomes, The use of Liposomes in the exhaust
dyeing of cotton 21Th IFATCC Congress, Barcelona, Espanha, Maio 2008
Laschuk, T.; Souto, A., P. - Comparative Research of two Smart Materials for application in
Fashion Textile Design, Proceedings of 3rd International Nanotechnology on ‘Nanotechnology
and Smart Textiles for Industry, Healthcare and Fashion’, The Royal Society London, March
2008
Laschuk, T.; Souto, A., P. - Design de moda com memória de forma. Anais do Congresso em
Pesquisa e Design, P&D, São Paulo, Brasil, 8 a 11 de Outubro
Laschuk, T.; Souto, A., P. - Incorporation of SMA Technologies in Fashion Underwear Apparel,
Proceedings of Ambience 08, Boras, Sweden. 2008
Madalena A. Martins, Jorge G. Santos, Graça M.B. Soares ‐ Novel application of β‐Cyclodextrins
in textile dyeing processes. Proceedings of 21Th IFATCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain, A33, pg 18. Ed. J.M. Canal, M. Marti, C. Canal, A. Navarro (2008). ISBN-13: 978-84-612-2641-2
Maria Teresa Pessoa de Amorim, Carlos Manuel Guimarães, Carlos Tavare Sandra Mariana
Silva Marque (2008) Auto-lavagem de materiais têxteis pela aplicação de fotocatalisadores, XIX
Cong LatinoAmericano de Química y Têxtil, Out 2008 Santiago do Chile, Chile
Maria Teresa Pessoa de Amorim, Carlos Manuel Guimarães, Carlos Tavares, Sandra Mariana
Silva Marques, Rosângela Bergamasc, António Morão (2008) “Modificação de membranas de
acetato de celulose com dióxido de titânio para remoção de cor em efluentes da industria
têxtil” XIX Cong LatinoAmericano de Química y Têxtil, Out 2008, Santiago do Chile, Chile
N. Carneiro; A. Souto; F. Foster; F. Fernandes; P.Dias; F. Oliveira “A DBD Plasma Machine in
Textile Wet Processing”, 21st IFATCC Int Cong, Maio 2008, Barcelona
Oliveira, F.; Carneiro, N; Souto, A.; Dias, P.; Reactive Dyeing of Polyamide 6.6 by Plasmatic
Modification, CIRAT - 3 Int Cong, Sousse, Nov2008
R. Bergamasco, L. C. Konradt Moraes, C. Regina Granhem Tavares, M Teresa Pessoa de Amorim
(2008) “Filtration with Membranes as Complementation for the Process
Coagulation/Floculation to Obtain Drinking Water” ICOM – Int Cong on Membranes and
Membranes Processes ,Julho 2008 ,Honolulu, Hawai.
Teresa Miranda, Rosa Pinheiro, Graça Soares, Jorge Santos, Different Strategies to Modify
Cotton Properties. Proceedings of 21Th IFATCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain, CD-Rom
proceedings, B34, pg 1-7. Ed. J.M. Canal, M. Marti, C. Canal, A. Navarro (2008).
2.2.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis completed
PhD Thesis
Enzymatic Treatment of Acrylic and Cellulose Acetate Fibres, Novembro 2008, Doutoramento
em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutorando: Teresa Matama, Orientador: Artur Cavaco
Enzymatic treatment of polyamide 6.6 fibres, Junho 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia
Têxtil, Doutorando: Carla Manuel Silva, Orientador: Artur Cavaco
Molecular Biotechnology Approaches Towards the Optimization of Enzymes for Advanced
Textile Applications, Setembro 2008, Doutoramento em Biologia, Doutorando: Rita Araujo,
Orientador: Margarida Casal, Dept. Biologia, Co-orientador: Artur Cavaco
MSc Thesis
Desenvolvimento de Fibra Ópticas Termoplásticas para Incorporação em Têxteis, Ciclo de
Estudos Integrado em Engenharia de Materiais, Dezembro de 2008, Mestranda: Diana Teresa
Lamela Figueiredo, Orientadora: Olga Carneiro e Co-orientador António Pedro Garcia de
Valadares Souto,
Influência do Tratamento de Superfície Plasmático em Malhas Com Elastano, Ciclo de Estudos
Integrado Engenharia Têxtil, Outubro 2008, Mestrando: Cristina Leite Rodrigues, Coorientação: André Catarino, Noémia Carneiro.
Utilização de fibras inovadoras em vestuário desportivo, Dezembro de 2007, Ciclo de Estudos
Integrados em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestranda: Mércia Maria Marques Rocha Mendes,
Orientadora: Fátima Esteves
Valorização de Argumentos Concorrenciais na Indústria Portuguesa dos Sectores Têxteis e do
Vestuário, Outubro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado Engenharia Têxtil, Marco Paulo de
Oliveira Leite, Orientadora: Noémia Carneiro
Alteração Fotoquímica de Corantes e Branqueadores Ópticos por Irradiação Plasmática,
Outubro 2008, Mestrado em Química, Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade do Porto,
Mestranda: Sandra Ventura, Co-orientação: Noemia Carneiro, Ana Martins (Profª Dep. Química
UP)
Estudo do efeito do tratamento por laser de CO2 nas propriedades superficiais de fibras
sintéticas, Junho de 2008, Mestrado em Química Têxtil, Mestranda: Helena Sofia Alonso,
Orientadora: Fátima Esteves
2.2.6 Patents/propotypes
Carneiro, N.; Souto, A.P.; Forster, F.; PRINZ, E. - Continuous and semi-continuous treatment of
textile materials integrating CORONA discharge, patente em fase de internacionalização
(2004)/patente nº PCT/PT2004/000008 (2004).
Artur Cavaco, (WO 2008/012236) biocatalytic hydrophilization of polyolefines
Artur Cavaco (WO 2007/136286) formulation containing neck domains and/or carbohydrate
recognition domains for cosmetic aplications, namely for the treatment of keratin fibres like
hair
2.2.7 Industry contract research
Dystar, GmbH & Co - Protocolo de cooperação
FIBERSENSING, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
Industrias Somelos, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
SOFTAL, GmbH - Protótipo industrial para aplicação da descarga CORONA na indústria têxtil
2.2.8 Government/Organization contract research
Aitex – Centro Tecnologico Textil, 24 m, 20 000 €, Aitex (Valencia/Espanha)
BIOSEAL – Biological detergents,VI FWP EU /PG FP6-514437, 36 m, 150.000 €, PG, TU-Graz,
U.Louvain, U. Birmingham
BIORENEW – Biological process on renewble materials, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-NMP-NI-4/02456,
36 m, 320.000 €, CIB-CSIC, Novozymes, KTH, ITQB, USussex , ULeiden, Ahlstrom
Centro Ciência em Guimarães, POCI 2010 –FEDER, 12 m, Universidade do Minho, Câmara
Municipal de Guimarães
Design na inserção de componentes electrónicos - A estética e a funcionalidade, SIME I&DT/
ADI, 15 m, 46.700 €, Domingos Almeida, S.A
Enz-UP - Treatment of wool with genetically modified proteases, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-SME-CO
OP- 032877,24 m, 160.000 €, De Monfort University, TUGraz, TNO, U.Maribor, UPC, Hebrotex
V., J. Weeker
ETIORG I101, 12 m, 48.000 €, Etiorg
INNOTEX - A tool box to catalyze continuous process INNOvation within the TEXtile
manufacturing lines in Europe, SME COLL - CT - 2006 – 030312, 120.778,40 €, Centexbel
LIDWINE-Multifuntionalized Medical Textiles for wound prevention, VI FWP FP6-2004-EU
NMP/SME-NI-4/ 016333, 36 m, 480.000€, TNO, POL, NANO, COLOR, OSM, MMA, NAN, MUL,
BOT, SOL, TOR
Melhoria da uniformidade de materiais têxteis brancos e tingidos pré-tratados com descarga
plasmática CORONA, POCI/CTM/58731/2004, 36 m, 70 000 €, Universidade da Beira Interior
2.2.9 Future Objectives
The three domains of research acting in the frame of the Textile Chemistry Group are
progressing towards innovation, internationalization, and technological transfer to industry, in
fields as pollution reduction and control, surface modification, nanofinishing for
functionalisation of textile materials, ecological dyeing of national woods without solvents,
enzymatic applications for functionalisation purposes, proteins in fibres and cosmetics, study
of non toxic antimicrobial products, improvement of bioactivity in textiles by natural
compounds and control of reactive dyeing baths.
The main objectives for the next three years period are focused into the following innovative
aspects:
Sustainable Processing and Finishing of Textile Materials,
• Use of environmental compatible technologies in textile industry for the prevention and
solution of pollution problems, as electrochemical techniques for textile wastewater treatment
and recycling (advanced oxidation process application to electrochemical degradation of dyes)
• Application of plasmatic treatments for surface modification in order to improve
nanotechnology potential for the functionalisation of textile materials.
• Synthesis and application of conducting polymers in textiles by means of electrochemical
techniques leading to nanoparticles and nanofibers formation.
• Study of self-cleaning properties in textiles, using photochemical behaviour of titanium
dioxide.
• Development of an ecological method for uniform penetration of wood by direct dyes
Fibre Bioprocesses,
• Optimization of use of biotechnology in textile processing, modification and finishing, namely
regarding enzymatic functionalisation of textile materials
• Applications of biotechnology on cosmetic sector
Chemistry of Functional Textile Materials
• Development of medical and therapeutic textiles, by promoting interactivity, natural
bioactivity and the use of non-toxic antimicrobial agents
• Study of the effect of fibre surface functionalization on the dyeing processes by continuous
monitorization of dyeing baths (using prototype)
• Development of microcapsules for the controlled release of wellness products (hydrating,
healing, vitamins, fragrances) with biocompatible shell walls
• Developments of functional nanoparticles and their application to textile materials
The promotion, protection and development of prototypes and patented machines and
processes regarding industrial application is looked as a key point for innovation in worlwide
textile industry, achieving a straight collaboration between researchers in 2C2T and industry.
2.2.10 Funding, source, dates
Aitex – Centro Tecnologico Textil, 24 m, 20 000 €
BIOSEAL – Biological detergents, VI FWP EU /PG FP6-514437, 36 m, 150.000 €,
BIORENEW – Biological process on renewble materials, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-NMP-NI-4/02456,
36 m, 320.000 €,
Design na inserção de componentes electrónicos - A estética e a funcionalidade, SIME I&DT/
ADI, 15 m, 46.700 €,
Enz-UP - Treatment of wool with genetically modified proteases, VI FWP EU FP6-2004-SME-CO
OP- 032877,24 m, 160.000 €,
INNOTEX - A tool box to catalyze continuous process INNOvation within the TEXtile
manufacturing lines in Europe, SME COLL - CT - 2006 – 030312, 120.778,40 €,
LIDWINE-Multifuntionalized Medical Textiles for wound prevention, VI FWP FP6-2004-EU
NMP/SME-NI-4/ 016333, 36 m, 480.000€,
2.3 Research Group Title: Management, Design and Marketing
Research Group Title: Management, Design and Marketing
Principal Investigator: Mário Duarte de Araújo
Research Area: Materials Science and Engineering
2.3.1 Objectives
The group has been undertaking research in the design and marketing of fiber based products
for a variety of applications. The core theme concerns the use of fibers and fibrous structures
as engineering materials. The main applications have been in concrete reinforcement, textile
reinforced composites for industrial applications especially transport systems, the fashion
business and high performance clothing for hygiene, health care and well-being, sports and
protection. The problems are dealt with in the framework of a total product design approach
where team work is encouraged and a variety of competences from other research groups
may be integrated,. The design of new products is seen in a business context and well
integrated in the marketing strategy. These competences may concern visual communication
(colour, pattern, style, shape, etc.), tactile communication (handle +) and functionalization
leading to performance and comfort (properties of finished fibres & structures (2D/ 3D):
strength, stiffness, elastic recovery, toughness, permeability, conductivity, stability, etc.),
depending on the applications envisaged.
In order to meet a particular requirement, market and emerging technologies analyses is
performed (exploratory generation of ideas) in order to develop a specification, a concept, a
detailed design and a prototype; then the prototype is tested to evaluate its total performance
in meeting the requirement. CAD systems and simulation (ex. FEA) are used for design and a
fibrous materials prototyping unit is used to manufacture and test the product. According to
this methodology some of the ongoing projects include braided structures for concrete
reinforcement, 3D non-woven structures for a variety of industrial applications, patchwork
multifunctional structures for high performance sportswear and underwear, exploitation of
the use of emerging new fibres and finishings and new approaches to product design.
2.3.2 Main Achievements
The group has established a worldwide reputation in some of these domains, namely in areas
such as modeling and simulation, 3D shaped preforms for composites, the reinforcement of
concrete with slender braded reinforced composite elements, the use of microencapsulated
pigments for energy saving in green houses and roofs, active outdoors for advertising, new
product design methodologies for customization and others.
The group is very international and it includes researchers from a variety of nationalities. The
patents taken, the invited lectures in conferences and the invitations to write chapters of
international books are significant signals.
Several research projects are being undertaken with funding from the Portuguese government,
the European Commission and directly by companies. These research projects are leading to
important results that are being published in scientific journals and presented at top level
international conferences. Various prototypes have been produced and patents are pending.
As many projects are undertaken with companies, there is a great involvement of the
researchers with the companies, which puts research results to use in product development.
2.3.3 Publications in peer review Journals
Araújo; M., Neves; M., Neves; J. - Impacto da Globalização e do Multiculturalismo no Design de
Moda Cap livro “Design de Moda- olhares diversos”, Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, São
Paulo, Brasil.
Neves; M., Jobim; G. - A Pesquisa de Tendências em Design de Moda: Ênfase na Rede de
Informação. Cap livro “Design de Moda- olhares diversos”, Editora Estação das Letras e Cores,
São Paulo, Brasil.
R. Fangueiro, C. Pereira, M. Araújo, (2008) “Polyesters and Polyamides“, Chapter 17 Applications of Polyesters and Polyamides in Civil Engineering, Woodhead Publishing, lda, ISBN
978-1-84569-298-8.
A. Cardoso, M. de Araujo and E. Coquet, Modeling Children’s Choice Decisions of Clothing,
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2008, Vol.12 , Nº3 , P. 425-428
Araguacy Filgueiras, Raul Fangueiro and Nathália Raphaelli, The Role of Fibres and Yarns in the
Design of Textiles for Sport Activities, Revista de Estudos em Design, 15.1, Brasil 2008.
Cristiana G. Pereira, Raul Fangueiro, Said Jalali, Mário de Araujo, Paula Marques, Braided
Reinforced Composite Rods for Concrete Internal Reinforcement, Mechanics of Composite
Materials, vol. 44, nº3, 2008, pp 221-230.
Fangueiro R et al., Development of fibrous preforms for FRP pipe connections, Compos Sci
Technol (2008), doi:10.1016/j.compscitech.2008.09.020
M. de Araujo, R. Fangueiro and F. Soutinho, Improving the Stiffness of Uni-directinally Oriented
Weft-Knitted Structures for Polymer Matrix Composite Reinforcement, Journal of Textile
Institute
N. Padaki, R. Alagirusamy, B. L. Deopura and R. Fangueiro, Compression and Permeability
Properties of Multiaxial Warp-knit Preforms, The Journal of The Textile Institute, vol 99, nº 4,
2008, pp287-294.
Naveen V Padaki, R Alagirusamy, B L Deopura, B S Sugun & Raul Fangueiro, Low velocity impact
behaviour of textile reinforced composites, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol. 33,
June 2008, pp. 189-202.
S. Chen, X. Ding, R. Fangueiro, H. Yi and J. Ni, Behaviour of Membrane Construction Materials
under Bi-axial Loading, Materials Science Forum, Vols 587-588, Trans Tech Publications,
Switzerland, 2008, pp 662-666.
S. Mukhopadhyay and R. Fangueiro, “Effect of aging on tensile and thermal properties of fibers
extracted from pseudostem of banana (Musa sepientum) plant", Journal Fibers and Polymers
S. Mukhopadhyay, R. Fangueiro and V. Shivankar, “Variability of Tensile Properties of Fibers
from Pseudostem of Banana Plant”, Textile Research Journal
S. Mukhopadhyay, R. Fangueiro, Y. Arpac and U. Senturk, “Banana Fiber – Variability and
Fracture Behaviour”, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, Volume 3, Issue 2, 2008,
Shouhui Chen Xin Ding, Raul Fangueiro and Honglei Yi4, Tensile performance and crack
propagation of coated woven fabrics under multi-axial loads, Polymer Testing Journal
Shouhui Chen, Xin Ding, Raul Fangueiro, Honglei Yi, Jing Ni, Tensile behavior of PVC-coated
woven membrane materials under uni- and bi-axial loads, Journal of Applied Polymer Science,
Volume 107, Issue 3, Pages 2038-2044, 5 February 2008. Online ISSN: 1097-4628
Yixi Luo, Hong Hu and Raul Fangueiro, Tensile and tearing properties of PVC coated Biaxial
Warp knitted fabrics under biaxial loads” Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, vol.33,
June 2008, pp. 146-150.
2.3.4 Other International publications
Some examples:
Cunha, J.; Neves, M.; Arezes, P.; Teixeira, S.; Development of a Lining for the Thermal Comfort
of Trekking Boots, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX Conference – AUTEX2008, Cittá Studio,
Biella, Italy, 24-26 de Junho, 2008.
Cunha, J.; Picoli, J.; Laschuk, T.; Multifunctional Baby Carrier Dress, 4th International Textile,
Clothing and Design Conference – Magic world of textiles, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 2008, pg. 548553, ISBN: 978-953-7105-26-6.
Filgueiras, A, Fangueiro, R & Marques, CT, Design total das T-shirts no futebol profissional
(Total design for the soccer team T-shirts, 4º Congresso Internacional de Pesquisa em Design,
11-13/Out, Rio de Janeiro, 2008
Filipe Soutinho, Raul Fangueiro, P. Gonçalves and Carla Freitas, Development of New
Functional Yarns Based on Wool Fibers, Futurotextiel08 Conference, Belgium, 13th -15th
November, 2008.
Gonilho Pereira, C., Fangueiro, R., Said Jalali M. Araújo, Pina Marques, P., Braided Composite
Rods for Civil Engineering Applications, 5º Congresso Luso-Moçambicano de Engenharia,
Maputo, 2-4 Setembro 2008.
Laschuk, T.; Picoli, J.; Cunha, J.; Conceptual Baby Carrier Dress, Proceedings of the 8th AUTEX
Conference – AUTEX2008, Cittá Studio, Biella, Italy, 24-26 de Junho, 2008.
Mario de Araujo, As Inovações na Indústria Têxtil, 1º Simpósio de Inovação Tecnológica,
SENAI/CETIQT, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil, 1 Out. 2008 (invited paper)
Matos, A.L.B.; Santos, C.M.S.; Silva, M.L.; Cunha, J.; Fashion Clothing for Disabled Persons,
Proceedings of the CIM 2008, 1st International Congress of Fashion, Madrid, Spain, 22-24 de
Outubro, 2008, ISBN-13: 978-84-612-7235-8
Naveen Padaki, B L Deopura, R. Alagirusamy and R. Fangueiro, Multilayer Interlocked 3D
Woven Structures – Fabric Construction and Properties, 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics
and their Applications, Manchester, UK, 10-11 April, 2008.
Neves M.; Neves J. – The Finishing and Structure Influence on the Ultraviolet Protection Factor
of Biodegradable Fibres. Proceedings da Progress 2008 International Conference, Universidade
de Ivanovo, Rússia, 27-30 Maio, 2008. ISBN 978-5-88954-284-1 e ISBN 978-5-88954-286-5.
Neves, M.; Arezes, P.; Teixeira, S.; Leão, C. - Desenvolvimento de Calçado Termicamente
Confortável, Proceedings of the International Symposium on Occupational Safety and Hygiene
- SHO2008, pp.207-218, ISBN978-972-99504-4-5.
Neves, M.; Silva, C. - The Design and the Education – The teaching of mathematics through the
use of games, 4th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference - Magic World of
Textiles, Dubrovnik, Croácia, Outubro 2008.
Paula Pina Marques, Raul Fangueiro and C. Gonilho Pereira, Concrete Reinforced By
Directionally Oriented Fibrous Structures, Autex Conference 2008, Biella, Italy, 24-26 June,
2008.
Pedro Gonçalves, R. Fangueiro, H. Soutinho And M. Araújo, Composite Materials Reinforced By
Randomly Oriented Fibers, Autex Conference 2008, Biella, Italy, 24-26 June, 2008.
Picoli, J. & Guedes, M.G., Coolhunter: its methods of work, International Conference of Applied
Research in Textile, CIRAT-3, Tunisia, 2008,
R. Fangueiro, P. Nunes, F. Soutinho And M. De Araújo, Design of 3D Weft-Knitted Fibrous
Preforms For FRP Tube Connexions, 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics and their
Applications, Manchester, UK, 10-11 April, 2008.
2.3.5 Master and Ph.D. thesis completed
PhD Thesis
A Marca Corporativa: Processo de Construção da Estrutura de Identidade da Marca e seu
Impacto no Desempenho da Empresa, Março 2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil,
Doutorando: Maria José Sousa dos Santos, Orientador: Mário de Araújo, Co-orientador: Maria
da Graça Guedes.
Comunicação Integrada de Colecções de Produtos de Moda, Junho 2008, Doutoramento em
Engenharia Têxtil, Doutorando: Paula Cristina Soares, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes.
Design Total de Malhas Multifuncionais para Aplicação em Vestuário Desportivo, Dezembro
2008, Doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil, Doutoranda: Araguacy Filgueiras, Orientador: Raul
Fangueiro.
MSc Thesis
A Importância da Engenharia no Desenvolvimento Estratégico e Actividades de I&D: Estudo de
um caso prático, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Maio 2007, Mestranda:
Rosário Brandão Marques, Orientador: Joana Cunha.
Caracterização e desenvolvimento de revestimento com fibras funcionais para ortóteses para
os membros inferiores, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Dezembro 2008,
Mestrando: Joaquim Jorge Peixoto, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro.
Diferenciação de Marcas de Vestuário no Mercado Nacional, Dezembro 2007, Ciclo de Estudos
Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: João Pedro Sousa Castilho, Orientador: Maria da
Graça Guedes
Estudo das propriedades mecânicas de materiais compósitos reforçados por não-tecidos,
Fevereiro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Pedro Gonçalves,
Orientador: Raul Fangueiro
Influência da Tecnologia de Fiação Compact fibra longa, no desempenho de fios funcionais,
Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil, Mestrando: Joaquim
Fernando Marques dos Santos Leal, Orientadora: Rosa Vasconcelos
Os Têxteis no Contexto dos Brinquedos Educativos na Primeira Infância (0-3 anos).
Funcionalidade e Segurança, Dezembro 2008, Ciclo de Estudos Integrado em Engenharia Têxtil,
Mestranda: Sónia Patrícia Santos da Silva, Orientadora: Joana Cunha.
A Intervenção do Design no Artesanato: aplicação aos produtos do IMA (Instituto Monsenhor
Airosa), Fevereiro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: Ângela Sá Ferreira,
Orientador: Maria Manuela Neves, Jean Yves Durand.
A Tecnologia Multimédia como Diferencial Competitivo das Micro e Pequenas Organizações
Empresariais em Moda, Dezembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando:
Adriana Leiria Barreto Matos, Orientador: Joana Cunha.
Coolhunting: Práticas e Metodologias, Dezembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing,
Mestranda: Júlia Isoppo Picoli, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes
Desenvolvimento de Malhas Multifuncionais para aplicações técnicas, Novembro 2008,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: Jefferson Mendes, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro.
Marketing em Moda, Dezembro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Sabrina
Duarte Leães, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes
Multilook: Vestuário Multifuncional. Metodologias de criação em Design, Setembro 2008,
Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestranda: Rita Aguiar, Orientadora: Joana Cunha.
Sistema de Identificação da Cor para Indivíduos Daltónicos – Aplicação aos Produtos de
Vestuário, Outubro 2008, Mestrado em Design e Marketing, Mestrando: José Miguel Neiva
Santos, Orientador: Maria da Graça Guedes.
Study on Waste Fibre Reinforced Ecocomposites, Julho 2008, E-Team Master Course,
Mestranda: Anna Lundhal, Orientador: Raul Fangueiro.
2.3.6 Patents/propotypes
Raul Fangueiro, Celso Carrilho, Juliana Luiz, Paula Marques, Prótese Vascular em Estrutura
Têxtil Entrançada com Ondulações e Respectivo Processo de Produção, pedido de patente nº
104067.
Graça Guedes, João Sena Esteves, H.Carvalho, Pasta Solar, Pedido de Registo de Desenho ou
Modelo n.º 973, publicado no Boletim da Propriedade Industrial n.º 78/2008 (editado em
18/04/2008), registo provisório concedido em 27/06/2008, Nº 973
Neves J., Mesquita F. - Submetido o pedido de patente relativo a "Cartazes Publicitários de Rua
Interactivos com Pigmentos Camaleónicos microencapsulados por estamparia digital ".
Número de pedido: 103 928. Data de depósito: 14 de Janeiro de 2008.
2.3.7 Organization of conferences
Raul Fangueiro, CLME08, Conferência Luso-Moçambicana de Engenharia, Simpósio Materiais
Fibrosos, 2-4 Setembro de 2008, Maputo, Moçambique
Raul Fangueiro, Workshop “Inovação Empresarial”, Universidade do Minho, 27 de Fevereiro
2008
2.3.8 Industry contract research
Desenvolvimento de artigos seamless multifuncionais para a área da saúde e bem-estar, QREN,
24 m, 110000 €, Sonicarla
Desenvolvimento de Estruturas Sandwich para reforço de compósitos, QREN, 24 m, 125000 €,
Castros e Marques
Desenvolvimento de novos fios à base de lã para aplicações inovadoras, SIME, 24 m, 125000 €,
FDG Development and characterization of needle-punched non-wovens, Groz-Beckert, 24 m,
155000 €, Groz Beckert
CIDAUT- cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação.
CIVIBRAL - cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação.
JUZO, cooperação no âmbito do projecto de doutoramento
LACATONI, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
Malhas Sonicarla, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
MOTAENGIL, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
Outrosmercadus, Lda, no âmbito do Mestrado em Comunicação de Moda
RECET, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
VIMAPLÁS, cooperação no âmbito de projecto de investigação
Desenvolvimento de artigos seamless multifuncionais para a área da saúde e bem-estar, QREN,
24 m, 110000 €, Sonicarla
Desenvolvimento de elementos estruturais entrançados em material compósito para reforço e
monitorização do betão, POCTI CTM/60856/04, 36 m, 76000 €
Desenvolvimento de Estruturas Sandwich para reforço de compósitos, QREN, 24 m, 125000 €,
Castros e Marques
Desenvolvimento de novos fios à base de lã para aplicações inovadoras, SIME, 24 m, 125000 €,
FDG Development and characterization of needle-punched non-wovens, Groz-Beckert, 24 m,
155000 €, Groz Beckert
Development of textile/apparel oriented research/training co-operation network between
Europe and Asia by exchanging young teachers and postgraduate students, IN/ASIA-LINK/002
(82158), 48 m, 400000 €, ENSAIT (França), Univ. Minho, IIT (Índia), DongHua (China)
Mapeamento e estudo de fibras de espécies vegetais com empregabilidade têxtil, CYTED, 36
m, 140 000 €, Universidade de S. Paulo, Univ. de Buenos Aires, U.P.Catalunha
Modelo de Conforto Termico Aplicado ao Projecto de Vestuário, POCTIEME/62786/04 , 36 m,
20 000 €, DPS ; DEM
2.3.9 Future Objectives
The objectives of the group are the development of research activities in multidisciplinary
domains leading to new interdisciplinary areas, such as:
•Dermo materials and structures leading to skin maintenance, repair & enhancement;
•Advanced fibrous materials & structures for architectural & civil engineering applications;
•Advanced fibrous materials & structures for FRP applications;
•Technologies & management concepts for Mass Customization & Personalization in the
fibrous materials supply chains;
•Technologies and advanced management concepts for the Total Design of fibrous products.
The group will strive for international recognition as a “leading research group in the field of
fibrous materials product design”. This will be the consequence of planed actions in terms of
publications and research projects.
The research projects for the period are as follows:
•application of fibrous materials in civil construction, mainly for concrete reinforcement;
•the use of natural fibre reinforced composites and 3D performs for composite
reinforcements;
•mathematical modeling of fluid mechanics in fibrous assemblies;
•fashion brands communication and market trends;
•design competences development (curricula);
•design and development of multifunctional textile products for comfort and well being.