French Cuisine in German Cookbooks – Pathways of - UEF-Wiki

French Cuisine in German Cookbooks – Pathways of Crosscultural Encounters Andrea Wurm Ins>tut für Angewandte SprachwissenschaC sowie Übersetzen und Dolmetschen Universität des Saarlandes French cuisine •  DE •  EN •  Also kent man nicht den •  So, one does not Koch / ob er gut / am recognize the cook / if langen Messer // he‘s good / at his long Raucht die Teutsche knife // smokes the Küch’ umsonst kocht German kitchen in vain der Frantzmann allzeit the Frenchman is besser. always cooking be[er. (Schellhammer 1697:n.p.) Development of French cuisine •  mid-­‐17th century: bundle of innova>ons –  less spices, more herbs –  vegetables as culinary category –  use of bu[er and cream –  basic prepara>ons like bouillon, jus, coulis, roux, and some sauces –  less religious dietary restric>ons –  stewed dishes of certain pieces of meat German culinary tradi>on 17th century • 
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s>ll medieval tradi>on un>l 1680 division into north-­‐west and south-­‐east exis>ng Italian influence in the south newly emerging French and English influence shipping routes changed (spices, sugar, coffee, tea) Cultural mediators François de la Varenne •  Le Cuisiner François, 1651 •  widespread in French original •  other French cookbooks known as well 1 Frantz de Rontzier 2 •  1598 •  origin not known •  name could be French (Wiswe 1970, de Lorme 1911) •  men>on of a romance cook at the Wolfenbü[el court at that >me •  geographical indica>ons: 1 French, 1 Savoy Johann Royer •  1651 •  father origina>ng from Wallonia •  gardener introducing vegetable recipes in a garden descrip>on 3 Georg Greflinger •  transla>on of Nicolas de Bonnefons‘ manuals, 1665 •  several edi>ons •  reprint as appendix to other books –  van Aengeln: Der verständige Gärtner, 1655ff –  Elsholtz: Diaete>con, 1682 –  Wecker: Neu Koch=Buch, 1667ff (‘Parisischer Küchenmeister’) •  borrowings of numerous recipes in up to 5 German books 4 Bernhard Buchinger • 
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1671 abbot of monastery in Alsace 11 >tles with indica>on “French” “French soups” roasted flour cooked wine as sweetener (‘raisiné’) 5 Stanislaus Prasmofsky 6 •  1671 •  probably Polish origin •  French cuisine –  use of (clarified) bu[er –  less spices than German average –  herbs mostly undefined < ‘bouquet garni’? •  geographical indica>ons: 3 French, 1 Savoy •  borrowings from Greflinger and Wecker 1598 Network of borrowings Rumpolt 1581 Bonnefons/
Greflinger 1665 Thieme 1682 Prasmofsky 1671 Danckwerth 1729 Wecker 1598 Schellhammer 1697 Johann Christoph Thieme •  1682 •  comprehensive household manual (‘Hausväterbuch’) •  borrowings from Greflinger –  two versions of ‘Nulles’ and ‘Pigeons in a marinade’ –  two versions of banquet organisa>on –  ‘Potage à la Reine’, ‘Potage à la Jacobine’ 7 Maria Sophia Schellhammer •  1692 •  bourgeois housewife •  16 recipes with French in the >tle, e.g. –  ‘Frantzösische Blut=Würste’ –  ‘Frantzösische Knakkwürste’ –  ‘Aal auf Frantzösische Art’ < Aal à la Galan>ne •  borrowings from Greflinger •  men>on of French sources •  descrip>on of French style and innova>ons 8 The French as friendly enemy •  DE •  EN •  Es ist nicht zu läugnen / •  One cannot deny that daß wir Teutschen von we Germans of the denen Frantzosen (so French (as many viel Ursach wir auch reasons we have to be sonst haben ihnen feind enemies) learned many zu sein) viel gutes good things gelernet (Schellhammer 1697:5) Fricassee •  DE •  EN •  Fricaßee / ist eigendlich ein •  Fricassee is a French word, as Frantzösisches Wort / wie wir we‘ve been learning about this denn diese Art Speisen / kind of dish from them, and erstlich von selbiger Na>on means a dish fried in bu[er. gelernet haben / und bedeutet Though, being gourmets, they eigentlich ein Gerichte in don‘t stop here, but add other Bu[er gebraten. Wie sie aber savory ingredients and a nice sehr lekker und wol wissen sauce. was gut schmekt: Also bleibt es darbei nicht / sondern nachdem dieses geschehen / wird das Gerichte noch mit andern schmaksamen Dingen verhöhet [sic] / und ihm eine anmuh>ge Brüe gegeben (Schellhammer 1697:353) Hans Schuppe •  1698 •  cook at the court of Braunschweig-­‐Lüneburg •  employer sent him on appren>ceship •  no recipe ‘à la Française’ •  but: pure French cuisine •  use of ‘Schü’, ‘Coulis’, ‘Bouillon’, ‘Sauße’, ‘Compote’ •  8 instances of ‘à la’ in >tles (2 %) 9 Amaranthes • 
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1715 encyclopedia for women 4 >tles with French, 4 Spanish, 3 Italian 76 instances of ‘Sosse’, 14 of ‘Potage’ 6 instances of ‘à la’ slightly more of ‘auf ... Art’ borrowings from Greflinger (two recipes) 10 Anonymous transla>on of Massialot, 1739 second edi>on 1747, 3rd 1760 first edi>on numerous French loan words second edi>on reduced and adapted or translated •  glossary of French culinary terms added • 
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11 blanchiren •  DE •  überdem verstehen die Köche jetziger Zeit dieselben schon, wenn sie gleich der frantzösi-­‐
schen Sprache nicht kundig sind, und reden nicht anders. Nur der vornehmsten zu gedencken / so heisset blanchiren, wenn man das Fleisch=Werck, Garten=Gewächse / u. d. m. in siedendes Wasser thut, darinnen einen Augenblick liegen lässet, und sie darauf in kalt Wasser wir}. Einige nennen es verwellen. (Ü-­‐Massialot 1747:Preface) •  EN •  the cooks nowadays do understand them, even if they don‘t speak French, and use them. Only to men>on the noblest, ‘blanchiren’ means to throw meat, vegetables, etc. in boiling water, le~ng them in it for a moment, and throwing them aCerwards in cold water. Some call it ‘verwellen’. Pathways Form of transfer Examples ci>ng French texts in German books Schellhammer, Marperger, Hohberg books of French cooks/maîtres d’hôtel working in Germany Rontzier (?), Brunfaut*, Le Goullon*, Dumesnil* books of German cooks/maîtres d’hôtel Schuppe, Buchinger, Prasmofsky, Rumpolt, Zülch*, Pariser Köchin* (?), Harwien* transla>ons of complete French texts Greflinger, Allerneueste Anweisung, Nostradamus*, Menon*, Viard*, etc. transla>on or adapta>on as compila>on from several French books APK, Hembstädt*, Saint Mar>n* * only >tles were available Pathways Form of transfer Examples German adapta>on or extension of French books Löffler*, Aulaire*, Bisier*, Chaptal/
Parmen>er*, Chevallier*, Decomble*, Demachy*, Wohlstandsquelle der Franzosen*, Escoffier* reprint of complete transla>ons as appendix Wecker, Elsholtz borrowing of passages from transla>ons in German compila>ons Schellhammer, Thieme, Marperger, Koch-­‐Lexikon borrowing of originally translated Thieme (< Prasmofsky?), Danckwerth passages from German compila>ons (< Schellhammer), Sincerus (?), Zedler (< Marperger) * only >tles were available