FASHION
Transcrição
FASHION
THE THEMONTHLY MONTHLYMAGAZINE MAGAZINEFEBRUARY JANUARY 2010 www.independent.com.mt FASHION FOR FEBRUARY INTERVIEWS: THE MAGRIS INVITE US TO CASA BERNARD BARITONE ALI RIEGER AND CURATOR FRANCESCA BALZAN THE SOCIAL WHIRL first words... G oodbye dear Alexander! First bids British designer Alexander McQueen goodbye on pages 30, 31 and 32. It appears he was a man of great sensibility as well as great talent. Losing his mother was probably the last straw at a period in his life when there were too many pressures and too many expectations from others. Those with great sensibility do not Humor Chic The Daily society Portrait by want to disappoint aleXsandro Palombo and he must have been afraid of disappointing. I admired his clothes as he had an enormous ability to imagine the impossible and then execute it. “I don’t believe in flooding the market with loads of goods that don’t mean much,” he said once. And he didn’t. Perhaps it was time for him to die. Who knows? We have to learn to live with questions. ‘Victims’ of My Favourite Room this month are Georges and Josette Magri. They are a great example of a couple who look in the same direction and enjoy life doing things together. They have left their home in Balzan and are now living permanently in Casa Bernard in Rabat which they have restored so beautifully and filled with exquisite antiques. Take a peek. The feature starts on page 50. Enjoy this copy of First which we have prepared for you. executive editor Marie Benoît design Conrad Bondin production manager André Camilleri features advertising executive Claire Gafà sales coordinator Christine Spiteri FIRST is not to be sold separately. It is published every month as a complementary magazine with The Malta Independent on Sunday. FIRST is published by Standard Publications Ltd, Standard House, B’Kara Hill, St Julian’s STJ1149, Malta. Tel: (356) 21345888. Fax: (356) 21346062, 21343460. Website: www.independent.com.mt Editorial enquiries: [email protected] Advertising enquiries: [email protected] Printed at EuroPrint. Exclusively distributed by Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 21331553 34 50 07 contents... 05 7 Fashion 30 48 First products Second Nature – Casual clothes for cold winter days Shake off the winter blues 16 Fashion 50 Lifestyle Style – who is wearing what My Favourite Room – Georges and Josette Magri in their home Casa Bernard. Interview and photos Joe Demanuele 19 Auction sales Bejewelled – Sale of jewels at Christie’s South Kensington 58 Culture Vulture 20 Interview Our Golden Past – Francesca Balzan speaks to Marie Benoît about her book Jewellery in Malta: Treasures from the Island of the Knights (1530 to 1798) An evening of sheer delight – Fado at the Corinthia Palace Hotel 28 Music Russians celebrate Orthodox Christmas at the Russian Chapel in San Anton gardens 60 Social whirl Singing the winter blues away – Spiteri Lucas Entertainment with another music production: In Harmony – Live the Music 62 History 30 In memory Full of Treasures – A glimpse at the latest issue of Treasures of Malta Death of a Genius – Tribute to British designer Alexander McQueen 34 Interview Baritone Ali Rieger speaks to Marie Benoît about his role in Aleko in next month’s opera of the same name 64 Our competition 38 Books A guide to the Mysteries of Lake Maggiore – Richard Zahra speaks to its author 43 Opinion Climate, Science or Climate Evangelism? – Bjorn Lomborg argues that the public does not take kindly to being misled 46 Travel Malta Diary by Anke Jablinski who has been to Malta 50 times 16 February 2010 19 Our Cover: Coat by Betty Barclay from Mei. Earrings and ring by Dyberg/Kern, umbrella by Moschino all from Porto 4 F i r s t J a n u a r M y a i g s a z i s u e n e 2 0 1 0 20 Fashion SECOND NATURE is the season for country walks, relaxed lunches and teas in elegant hotel lobbies. Time for comfortable casual outfits to brighten cold winter days. Add a dramatic touch to slick winter coats with an unusual scarf. Cut a dashing swathe in a winter white coat and spotted umbrella. Avoid looking overly prim – introduce red in your wardrobe; its allure is a sartorial tonic for winter days. Accessories soften winter clothes. Costume jewellery gives extra detail for a gorgeously girlie look. And is there life without a good handbag? February brings a host of fashion delights with it. ‘ T BANISH WINTER BLUES Dress and matching cardigan by Max Mara. Silk scarf by Passigatti, ring and bangles by Dyberg/Kern, leather bag by Cosettini all from Porto. F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 7 LIGHT UP WITH OLD GOLD Jersey twin set, leather belt and suede skirt all by Max Mara. Necklace and bracelet both by Bulatti, ring by Dyberg/ Kern, leather bag by Francesco Biasia all from Porto. 8 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 PRACTICAL BUT POLISHED Zip-up jacket and jeans by Max Mara. Scarf worn as band by Passigatti, ring and bangles by Dyberg/Kern, leather bag by Francesco Biasia all from Porto. 10 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 THE DAY OF THE PYTHON Jacket and skirt by Betty Barclay from Mei. Earrings and ring by Dyberg/Kern, leather bag by Francesco Biasia all from Porto. 12 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 RAVISHING RED Jacket by Gil Bret, jeans by Betty Barclay both from Mei. Umbrella by Moschino, leather gloves by Ochre, bangles and bracelet by Dyberg/ Kern, leather bag by Ripani all from Porto. F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 13 Valentina Lupo Credits: Photography & Styling: Valentina Lupo 79534766 Model: Daniela Darmanin Hair: Clinton Chetcuti 77778686 Make-Up: Maureen Spiteri at Sina's Beauty Salon Tel: 21647858 Location: Speranza Valley Stockists: Max Mara: Tel: 21341961 Mei boutique: Tel: 23745031 Porto: Tel: 21372079 WARM WINTER HUES Coat by Max Mara. Dress by Betty Barclay from Mei. Earrings and ring by Dyberg/Kern, hand-made scarf by Mary Frances all from Porto. 14 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 15 Fashion Style Sofia in a Carolina Herrera creation at the Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los Angeles also in January. AMYAdams in a lava red silk chevron georgette dress by Carolina Herrera at the New York premiere of Leap Year on 6 January. At the taping of David Letterman’s Late Show on January 5th Amy Adams was seen wearing a Carolina Herrera grey mélange belted wool coat over a mulberry silk jersey dress. Paco Rabanne was appointed Officer of the Legion of Honour in January. The Legion d’Honneur is the highest decoration in France and rewards people for civil and military services to the Nation. He is well-known as an avantgarde creator with his metal dresses – his material of choice. The Spring 2010 Collections of Betty Barclay, Elegance and Condici will be available at MEI as from tomorrow, 22 February. These brands start the Spring/Summer 2010 season full of vitality, and present relaxed yet smartly feminine collections. The colours underline the positive message. This season everything radiates optimism and nonchalance. MEI, Westin Dragonara Resort, St Julian’s. Tel: 2374 5031. 16 F i F e r b s t r a u M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Sofia Vergara in a dutch blue silk faille strapless gown with a ruby duchess bow by Carolina Herrera at the 67th Annual Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles last month. Auction sales A Tiffany Diamond Single Stone Ring Estimate: £6,000-8,000 Diamond Scroll Earpendants Estimate: £4,000-5,000 A Pair of Art Deco Diamond Earclips Estimate: £500-700 A Pair of Aquamarine and Diamond Earpendants Estimate: £1,200-1,500 An Aquamarine and Diamond Ring Estimate: £1,500-2,000 Bejewelled © Christie’s Images Ltd. 2010 Text: Geoff Young Associate Director. Specialist head of sale. Sapphire and Diamond ‘Love’ Bangle, by Chopard Estimate: £2,000-3,000 Citrine, Sapphire and Diamond Bombe Ring Estimate: £600-800 T he sale of Jewels at Christie’s South Kensington on 17 March 2010 welcomes Spring, offering a range of traditional and antique pieces complemented by a selection of modern jewellery. With estimates ranging from £500 to £6,000 this sale is sure to cater for all tastes. These stunning pieces should be worn and enjoyed. Why not go along to the viewing at the South Kensington salerooms on 13-17 March 2010 to try them for size if you happen to be in London? A Pair of Jadeite Jade and Diamond Cufflinks Estimate: £500-700 An Elizabeth Gage Astrological Ring Estimate: £600-800 A Ram’s Head Torc Bangle Estimate: £500-700 Two pieces of gold jewellery: one harking back to ancient Minoan civilisation and the other adopting the timeless signs of the zodiac. From classical to timeless classic, they are united by their use of animal imagery and all the deeply entrenched symbolism that entails. The torc bangle (left) is a remarkable example of classically-inspired jewellery. The Minoans are known to have placed great value upon physical beauty and their clothes and jewellery would have always served to enhance that. The ram itself had enormous significance for the ancients, and for the Minoans it stood as a symbol of fertility. It is also the astrological sign of Aries in a system which remains in use today. Whether a firm believer in the influence of astrological phenomenon or not, this astrological ring by Elizabeth Gage (above right) is a wonderful piece of jewellery; an ideal gift for a fish-lover or Piscean. F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 19 Interview Our golden p THE OPULENT BOOK JEWELLERY IN MALTA:TREASURES FROM THE ISLAND OF THE KNIGHTS (1530 TO 1798) IS THE BRAINCHILD OF FRANCESCA BALZAN, CURATOR AT PALAZZO FALSON HISTORIC HOUSE MUSEUM, MDINA. IN THIS INTERVIEW WITH MARIE BENOÎT SHE MERELY SCRATCHES THE SURFACE OF HER EXTENSIVE KNOWLEDGE Detail of the central link of the Passalacqua Chain, Carmelite Church Coll., Valletta J ewellery of Malta is a beautiful book produced by Midsea Books for Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti. One would need a whole magazine to do it justice. So we have to limit ourselves to essentials. Francesca and Palazzo Falson were made for each other. She is the antithesis of a blue stocking and could easily be a model. The book is based on her MA thesis and she knows the subject intimately. So, what in her view are the most important functions of jewellery, I ask her, and have they changed through the ages? She carries her learning lightly and explains to me that jewellery is primarily intended as a personal decoration “the only piece of art you are ever likely to carry around with you, touching your skin and somehow enhancing your appearance.” She goes on to say that it can and usually does have sentimental value. “It is a statement of the wealth of its owner. It can 20 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 past be worn as an amulet. It can be an overt statement of one’s religion and one’s affiliations as well as an indicator of office or rank. It is ultimately a self-conscious declaration of the wearer. All these uses are as true today as they were in the past. The only significant difference is that men tended to collect and possibly wear more jewellery in the past. Nowadays, give or take the occasional football star, jewellery is predominently worn by women.” Link of Passalacqua Chain, Carmelite Church Coll., Valletta Rhodes “and from their travels in the post-Rhodiot period, sourced from all over Europe. Luckily, images and a few pieces do survive to help us understand what these ‘new’ objects arriving in Malta in 1530 must have looked like and how they may have influenced the Maltese silversmith.” There are still excellent Maltese craftsmen who repair This book focuses on the and also make jewellery. years 1530 to 1798. Before the But is there jewellery which Knights came to Malta and is wholly Maltese, designed brought so much as well as made by local sophistication with them was jewellers? jewellery of any significance Francesca replies that this is Iwanted to a difficult know. question. Francesca “Much of the explains that jewellery what we know which of the jewellery survives is in Malta just unfortunately not before the marked or only Knights’ arrival partially is through marked, not descriptions in documents, as allowing for a precise very little actual pieces survive. identification of its maker She explains. “Typically silver, and date. Archival coral and pearls made up references do not help either jewellery of that time. Precious as jewellery is described in a stones start to get mentioned one-liner or in terms of the after the Knights arrive in Malta. gems or metal it was made However, the significance of but generally not where it attaching, for example, to the was made. One entry very marriage ring and the rosary tantalisingly refers to ‘gioielle Cross of Passalacqua was definitively present in prealla Maltesa’ but stops short of a Chain. Carmelite Church Coll., Valletta description which leaves us one Knights period Malta and would continue right up to this day.” step away from identifying what it could be. Having said that we do The Knights of Malta came from Rhodes as we know that certain types of jewellery all know. Did they bring any jewellery with them? were circulating in Malta in large Francesca explains that the Knights did bring quantities, indicating that they were precious reliquaries and objets d’art from produced and sold here.” F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 21 Our Lady of Sorrows Medallion (obverse and reverse). Private Collection, Mdina Coral Rosary. Private Coll., Malta Snake head bracelet with heart pendant, Private Collection, Malta C ould Francesca comment on the strong symbolic associations tied to rites of passage such as baptism, marriage and so on which jewellery also carried and possibly still carries? She has the facts at her fingertips. “To give one example, betrothal customs in Malta during the sixteenth century feature jewellery as an important part of this ritual. Once the suitor’s offer for marriage was accepted and a dowry agreed upon, he would send the future bride a gift of a fish bearing a ring or jewel in its mouth. He would later present an engagement ring to her on the actual day of the betrothal. The ring would have an engraved motif of two joined hands denoting fidelity. That’s two pieces of jewellery for the lucky bride!” And what about coral? “Coral is almost universally held to turn away the evil eye and to protect the wearer against all sorts of harmful influences. This belief is rooted in centuries old tradition and therefore coral, which incidentally is also found in Maltese waters, features frequently in jewellery.” Did the women, all those centuries ago, wear different jewellery to what we wear today? Francesca points out to me that they wore what we normally wear – brooches, rings, bracelets, necklaces – and more. “It is interesting to see changing fashions in jewellery through the centuries. Generally the fashions in jewellery adapted to changes in dress and hairstyles – no point wearing earrings if the ears were entirely concealed! Moreover sumptuary laws regulated what people could and could not wear. Portraits and inventories provide essential data, for example, what in the hand can seem like a brooch may well turn out to be a dress ornament worn at the top of a stomacher.” So secular women then went in Dagger of the Grand Masters for even more personal of the Order of decoration than we do today. St John, Louvre Museum Coll., Paris Â\ {ÉÑx |à ã|ÄÄ Üt|áx ÑxÉÑÄxËá tãtÜxÇxáá tá àÉ à{x {|áàÉÜ|v ätÄâx? as opposed to mere intrinsic value, of jewellery and that the current trend of trading in I was fascinated by old gold for cash will not something else I had read in the book: a fossil result in the destruction obtained from Maltese rock of pieces of historic which was held to have powerful preventive and curative importance” properties, the snake’s eye. Could she comment on this? “Yes, the so-called snake’s eye was held to have powerful curative and preventive properties, which was efficacious against poison and poisonous animal bites. These fossils were mounted on rings in such a way that the fossil would be in constant contact with the skin, to protect and heal the wearer. Apparently even Grand Master Verdalle took to wearing one such ring.” 22 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Silver filigree reliquary cross, Zabbar Sanctuary Museum Coll., Malta A Section from a ‘Tal-Antaccoli’ type necklace Â\ tÅ Çx|à{xÜ t vÉÄÄxvàÉÜ Éy }xãxÄÄxÜç? nd did secular men wear any jewellery at all? “Yes, men most certainly did wear jewellery and accessories. Rings and earrings, buckles and buttons in precious metal feature in the records.” perhaps the best known of Maltese jewellery items and is indeed still very laboriously produced in Malta. “What few people are not aware of is its origins. This type of chain seems to have been brought to Malta from Spain or perhaps even Portugal, but originated most likely in the East. The origins of the ‘Tal-Antaccoli’ necklace are less clear, however this type certainly gets mentioned in seventeenth century documents giving us an indication that it was known and already referred to as such in bygone days.” nor particularly keen on wearing jewellery and given the fragility of these old pieces I would I know that the muchrather tip-toe around acclaimed ‘Gran Spinat’ is still them than be made made in Malta but what about the ‘Tal-Antaccoli’ necklace? Both to wear them!” styles are mentioned in the book. Francesca comments that the ‘Gran Spinat’ is Various size links in ‘Gran Spinat’ type necklaces Sword of the Grand Masters of the Order of St John, Louvre Museum Coll., Paris F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 25 Gold pectoral cross, Private Coll., Mdina. Late eighteenth century typical Maltese style gold and seed pearl earrings. Private Collection. Malta Rings of crowned hearts from various Collections I could listen to her speak about her pet subject for hours. But one more question: If she had to choose three pieces of jewellery about which she writes in this sumptuous book, for her personal use, which ones would she choose and why? (I had already secretly made my choice.) She smiles with a glint in her eyes: “The short answer is none of them. I am neither a collector of jewellery, nor particularly keen on wearing jewellery and given the fragility of these old pieces I would rather tip-toe around them than be made to wear them! What I do however, love about jewellery is the way it reflects the social context of the person who wears it and that’s why I have spent so much time mulling over jewellery.” Silver dress of the Icon of the Virgin of St Luke 26 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Here’s someone who doesn’t want everything for herself. She understands perfectly the importance of looking after the old and keeping it in good condition for future generations. But I hazard one last question. How relevant is her study of jewellery in today’s world? She is wise for her years and replies: “This was one area of Maltese art and history that had not been looked at before so I feel my book is a contribution to knowledge in this area. But, more importantly, I hope it will raise people’s awareness as to the historic value, as opposed to mere intrinsic value, of jewellery and that the current trend of trading in old gold for cash will not result in the destruction of pieces of historic importance. Music Singing the winter blues away SPITERI LUCAS ENTERTAINMENT IS BACK IN TOWN WITH YET ANOTHER SPECTACULAR MUSIC PRODUCTION IN HARMONY – LIVE THE MUSIC. THIS WILL TAKE PLACE ON 20 AND 21 MARCH AT THE SIR TEMI ZAMMIT THEATRE, UNIVERSITY OF MALTA, TAL QROQQ Photos: Bernard Polidano I “ n Harmony” is a live, animated and entertaining show featuring a varied repertoire of popular and evergreen tunes chosen from over a sixty year span of Music history. Hit numbers such as Ain’t No Mountain High, Lady Marmalade, I Will Follow Him, Tell Him, That’s What Friends are for, All for Love, Bohemian Rhapsody, Somebody to Love, What a Wonderful World, The Lion Sleeps Tonight, The Circle of Life and Michael Jackson’s Heal the World, just to mention a few songs, which feature prominently in this production. With a repertoire of highly popular tunes, a talented cast, spectacular lighting and sound, colourful costumes and a few surprises in store, In Harmony promises to be one of the main attractions this theatrical season. This is bound to be another feather in their cap after Golden Oldies (2006), The Legends of Music (2007), Welcome to Hollywood (2008), A Tribute to the Stars (2008) and Dipinto di Blu (2009), The show will be staged on Saturday 20 March at 20.00hrs and Sunday 21 March at 18.30hrs at the Sir Temi Zammit Theatre, University of Malta, TalQroqq. For this musical show, Spiteri Lucas Entertainment has assembled a highly talented cast with some of Malta’s top and most versatile performers such as upcoming star Raquela, Ludwig Galea, crooner Ivan Spiteri Lucas, Pamela, Debbie Scerri, Glen Vella, Nadine Axisa and Neville who is also responsible for a children’s choir that was chosen following a series of auditions held throughout the last few months. Booking is open and tickets can be obtained from St. James Cavalier Booking Office at Valletta (Tel. 21 22 32 00) or via email ([email protected]). You can also book online on www.sjcav.org. Ticket hotline is 9946 8429 or 9989 6638. More information can be obtained by visiting www.spiterilucas.net. Spiteri Lucas Entertainment is supported by: Nexos Lighting Technology, Bestprint Co. Ltd, Bernard Polidano Photography, Sas-Sitta TV Programme, Cut Coiffeur Hairstylists, Beautique Parlour, Birkirkara, Natasha Polidano (Make-up artist), Logografix Signs and Besteam Audio and Melita Sports. All artists will be accompanied by a live seven piece band under the direction of musical director Mark Spiteri Lucas who is also responsible for all musical arrangements to be performed throughout the show, while Keith and Adonelle together with their dance troupe are responsible for the choreography. 28 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 In memory Death of a g BRITISH DESIGNER ALEXANDER MCQUEEN WAS FOUND DEAD IN HIS HOME LAST WEEK, AFTER POSTING ANGUISHED ONLINE REMARKS ABOUT THE DEATH OF HIS MOTHER. HE WAS ONLY 40 YEARS OLD AND AT THE PINNACLE OF HIS SUCCESS. T he circumstances pointed to a possible suicide, but there was no confirmation from police or McQueen’s publicists. Authorities said the death was not suspicious, apparently ruling out foul play. They did not indicate how McQueen was discovered. The Sun tabloid cited an anonymous source on its website who said workers found McQueen hanging in his apartment. The newspaper gave no further details. His family issued a statement asking for privacy. 30 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 genius M cQueen is credited with helping revive the oncemoribund British fashion industry. His edgy pieces were coveted and treasured by stylish women across the globe and seen on numerous red carpets. Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour called McQueen “one of the greatest talents of his generation. He brought a uniquely British sense of daring and aesthetic fearlessness to the global stage of fashion. In such a short career, Alexander McQueen’s influence was astonishing — from street style, to music culture and the world’s museums,” she said in a statement. “His passing marks an insurmountable loss.” McQueen did not design for the celebrities, but they flocked to him for the sheer audacity of his creations, which were instantly recognizable for being dramatic, exquisitely tailored and oh-so sexy. A stunning dress for Sandra Bullock? A special order for Madonna? Something special for Kate Moss or Naomi Campbell? All these feats seemed easy for the quiet, slim, bearded Englishman who shunned publicity and laughed off the limelight. Lady Gaga recently made waves when she wore McQueen’s spring 2010 lobster-claw shoes in her “Bad Romance” music video. McQueen’s mother died on 2 February. Some fashion experts speculated that his mood may have also been clouded by pressure to outdo himself again next month at his catwalk show in Paris. News of his death broke at the start of New York Fashion Week and sent shock waves through the Bryant Park tents. A presentation of McQueen’s secondary label, McQ, had been scheduled for later Thursday, but it was quickly cancelled. After word of his death spread, one mourner left pink flowers at the doors of the designer’s London headquarters. Mourners also gathered outside his New York store. “He was a great, great talent who had lost someone important in his life,” said Xavier Keane, who placed the flowers. “I know how he feels because I lost my mother last year.“ McQueen sounded anguished and frustrated in recent postings on his Twitter page. The remarks also sounded slightly confused. “i’m letting my followers know the my mother passed away yesterday if it she had not me nor would you RIP mumx,” he wrote. Shortly afterward, he added: “But life must go on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!” Four days later, he was dead. “If you are a genius, the pressure to be a genius is always immense,” said Imogen Edwards-Jones, author of the Fashion Babylon, a novel on the untidy underside of the industry. McQueen helped spark a renaissance in London fashion, helping to revive it after the longdormant period that followed the punk explosion in the 1970s. He was also responsible for one of history’s most famous ‘wardrobe malfunctions.’ He designed Janet Jackson’s Super Bowl outfit, which fell open while she was singing, revealing one of her breasts. In the usually glad-handing fashion world, McQueen was known as a private man who shunned the limelight. He turned down most interview requests and did not cultivate a cult of personality or try to develop an air of mystery about his work. McQueen, a trim, handsome man with startling gray-blue eyes, had an easy smile, but did not linger in the camera’s glare. On Sunday, he used an obscenity to describe his “awful week” and said he had to “some how pull myself together and finish.” F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 31 I “ n a world where every man and his dog is a designer, Alexander McQueen was the real deal,” said celebrated hat maker Philip Treacy. “His talent was supersonic.” After a founder’s death, other major labels have turned to lesser-known in-house talent, as happened with Valentino; or brought in outside designers, as happened at Emanuel Ungaro; or even recruited family, as with Versace. McQueen made his name first in London, then wooed audiences in Paris, New York and Milan to take his place in the upper echelons of the designing world. He was named British Fashion Designer of the Year four times, and was recognized by Queen Elizabeth II in 2003, when she made him a Commander of the British Empire for his fashion leadership. McQueen was the youngest of six children born to a taxi driver and a teacher. He received his early fashion training at the Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, long recognized for its fashion-forward approach and encouragement of Britain’s talented young designers. He learned the finer points of traditional men’s tailoring at two famous, conservative Savile Row houses: Anderson and Sheppard, and Gieves and Hawkes. After his Savile Row stint, McQueen started to develop his trademark, more theatrical designs, working with several other brands before first starting his own label in 1992. He quickly earned a reputation for innovation. The company he founded was purchased by the Gucci Group, and he retained creative control of his own brand. There were plans for stores in Paris, Milan and London, as well as Manhattan and San Francisco. His runway shows were always a highlight during the Paris ready-to-wear fashion week. One of his previous collections included a show built around the concept of recycling, with models donning extravagant headwear made out of trash. His last collection, shown in October in Paris, featured elaborate and highly structured cocktail dresses. Critics raved. “McQueen influenced a whole generation of designers. His brilliant imagination knew no bounds as he conjured up collection after collection of extraordinary designs,” said Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue. McQueen was known for pushing the envelope. At his spring-summer 2010 collection, he featured sculptural cocktail dresses in psychedelic snakeskin prints, with the hooflike platform booties (above) that were worn by Lady Gaga. The show opened with huge screens projecting close-up images of a woman writhing among a den of snakes. The death left the future of the McQueen label in doubt. “I’m overcome with grief today with his shocking passing and my heart aches at the pain he must have been in,” designer and friend Jeremy Scott said by email, explaining that he was too emotional to speak after hearing of McQueen’s untimely death. 32 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Interview Time for opera A BARITONE ALI RIEGER IS GOING TO SING HIS WAY THROUGH RACHMANINOFF’S ALEKO NEXT MONTH AND MARIE BENOÎT FINDS THAT HE IS STEPPING INTO A WORLD OF GYPSIES, BEAUTIFUL MUSIC AND TRAGEDY 34 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i leko, Sergei Rachmaninoff’s one-act answer to Carmen, is a product of his student days at the Moscow Conservatory. It was an étude of sorts, designed to test his burgeoning compositional acumen. The Russian libretto was written by Vladimir NemirovichDanchenko and is an adaptation of the poem The Gypsies by Alexander Pushkin. Rachmaninoff’s opera was written in 1892 as a graduation work at the Moscow Conservatory, and it won the highest prizes from the Conservatory judges that year. Its Moscow première took place on 9 May 1893. Tchaikovsky, who was to become his mentor, had attended this performance. Aleko’s rhapsodic Orientalism and lavish melodies emerge with effortless appeal. Like Rachmaninoff’s two other operas – The a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Miserly Knight and Francesca da Rimini – Aleko shows Rachmaninoff finding his own individual style, independent of the traditional opera or Wagner’s music-dramas. Michael Bukinik, a contemporary of Rachmaninoff at the Conservatory, recalled the rehearsals for the opera: “I was a pupil of the orchestra class, and during the rehearsals, we not only admired, but were made happy and proud by his daring harmonies, and were ready to see in him a reformer.” The BOV Opera Festival is this year including Aleko in a double-bill with Rossini’s Cambiale di Matrimonio. The title role is to be sung by a young baritone Ali Rieger who is no stranger to Malta and has sung here a number of times: at the Sala Isouard, last summer at a local council festival in Mellieha bay, at the Waterfront chapel and other venues. Ali started acting, as a teenager in Austrian TV productions and at the age of 15 years he had his first small part in an Austrian film. “I soon found out that there was still much I had to learn; much hard work lay ahead in order for me to improve my skills. Talent is simply not enough. But acting has served me well for a singer of operas must be able to act as well.” So Ali went to acting school. His first visit to Malta took place some years ago and “a strong connection quickly grew as I learned to appreciate this special place and its people. Juliette Bisazza, the well known Maltese soprano and voice teacher and her family supported me in my creative growth. It was beneficial to meet the Bisazza family, which has such a long musical tradition. The generosity I received in Malta empowered me to promote Maltese singers, through a recently set up company Artisti Lirici Internazionali (ALI) in Milan where I have been living for several years.” ALI is very much Ali Rieger’s baby and is growing stronger with every concert organised. He explains: “Well, the original idea was to launch new talent and singers through concerts and events in Milan where I live. After just a few recitals we were already making quite an impression on the musical scene there. Through the organisation of these concerts we are also giving an opportunity to Maltese artists to perform in Italy in front of different audiences.” From his comments it is clear that it is always important for him that he researches the background to the role he is playing in detail. “When you’re doing a role, whether it is historical or not, you need to know what’s going on. If you do Rigoletto you need to know about the time when it’s set and the society in which it was written. How else can you understand what it’s all about? The audience too, needs to know what it’s all about and who’s who. That’s especially important when it’s an unknown or an unusual piece.” Taking the final bow with Soprano Adriana Yordanova in Tuscany Ali with Soprano Lydia Caruana during a reception in Malta The role of Aleko at the Manoel Theatre will be his debut for 2010. He comments: “It wasn’t easy to work on this part. Even though I have studied for many years in Latvia and Estonia, where Russian is the second official language, I still had to review what I had studied many years ago. About a year ago, I was fortunate to find a Russian coach in Milan who could help me prepare the role. I wanted to dive into the language, the culture, the history behind the text and the music. As time passed, I became hypnotized by the beauty that is contained in Rachmaninoff’s music. Rachmaninoff was only twenty-yearsold when he composed this opera and yet he already had an incredible insight into the human soul.” love her and to live in her world, only to discover that she has betrayed him. Enraged, he kills both her and her lover. What is most fascinating is Aleko’s journey which leads him to this act of violence. Aleko, who in reality doesn’t possess a very strong personality, latches on to the young soul of Zemfira, a woman who he sees as being free from angst and social pressures. He convinces himself that she is the key to his happiness and purpose in life. When he discovers Zemfira with another man, he loses his identity. He finds himself alone again. This idea of the selffulfilling prophecy that you become what you think you are really made an impression on me.” What are his plans after Aleko? “This year is a great year for me, full of new experiences and possibilities. I am looking forward to working with Brian Schembri who will be conducting the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and the German opera stage director Angelika Fenzel and her colleague, set and costume designer, Hanne Eckart in the Manoel’s production of Aleko. The production manager is the wellknown musician Sara Spiteri.” Aleko is the story of a young man who is weary of his boring upperclass life and runs off with a band of gypsies. He moves in with Zemfira, a young gypsy, and she bears him a child. The Old Gypsy, Zemfira’s father, warns Aleko not to become too possessive of Zemfira. However, Aleko kills both Zemfira and the man he thinks is her lover. The gypsies cast him out and disown him. Could he comment on Aleko’s character? “This opera communicates something more than love between two souls which were once deeply connected. If you were to look at it from a story book point of view, Aleko lives in a civilized world but falls in love with a young gipsy girl. He is mesmerized by her beauty and what she represents: youth and freedom. Driven by his fear of being left alone, he sacrifices everything to F e b r F u i a In addition to preparing the roles of Belcore in Donizetti’s L’Elizir d’amore and Puccini’s Marcello for La Bohème, two roles which he is scheduled to play in Catania, Ali Rieger is also working on parts for both German and Austrian television productions. (The 11th Edition of the BOV Opera Festival is a week-long operatic bonanza being held at the Manoel Theatre and starts on 17 March.) r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 35 Working women MARIE BENOÎT H ANOTHER VOICE T he ‘typical family’ shown in the advertisements – father going out to work, mother staying home (getting her sheets whiter than white) and two children, is slowly becoming not so typical. The statistics of marital breakdown in Malta are nothing to be proud of. I have just been watching a programme on TV 5 about divorce in France. The statistics there are worse. One in three couples separate and in Paris it is worse still for there it is one in two couples. It is usually the men who finish up homeless and sometimes, the economy being what it is, jobless as well. And in these statistics no one is counting those marriages which are marriages only in name: where the couple live under the same roof but lead seperate lives; where the woman stays on as, at a certain age, she cannot hope to go out and work and maintain yourself; where the man’s conscience will not allow him to leave his wife at any stage, although the marriage never took off, and so on. not forget that the average salary here is dismally low, one of the lowest in Europe. So, there are women who may not particularly like what they are doing but are happy to contribute to the family kitty and make the life of those they love more comfortable. As a result of more women in the workplace, roles are not as clear cut as they used to be. But it is up to each couple to sort this out as although legislation helps in certain areas, the circumstances of each couple are different. It is only the co-operation between them which is going to be the basis of a harmonious life together. There are more and more enlightened couples who see the benefits of the contribution of the woman and who are making a definite decision to run their lives on an equal, sharing basis. And it works well for them. possible and is justifiably proud of her achievements then, to use the crude word which all kinds of men use, he must be a pastizz. I am not going to apologise for the use of this word and its implications as it is so widely adopted. There are others who find it necessary to challenge the manliness of those whose wives are smart and doing well careerwise. He must be weak, a wimp with not worthwhile career of his own, they bark, and of course, he must inevitably be henpecked. She is no doubt a belligerent hussy and deserves a good hiding now and then to show her who is boss, they argue. The marriage will not last, they predict, without as much as the aid of a crude crystal ball let alone a shred of evidence. She probably orders him around, they assume, at the same time blaming women who work for the disintegration of family life. Âg{xÜx tÜx ÅxÇ ã{É ÉÇÄç yxxÄ áxvâÜx |Ç à{x|Ü ÜxÄtà|ÉÇá{|Ñ |y à{x ãÉÅtÇ áàtçá {ÉÅxA But it is useless to pretend that the problem of marital breakdown has a solution… it is a social phenomenon not a problem. There are things that could help but they appear modest against the awesome tide of social revolution around us. It is infinitely more fortable of course – com We are still in a transitional phase and the indisputable fact is especially for him.” women have arrived in the that workplace – and not just to make the coffee and empty the paper baskets. Some are working because they have studied hard and cannot visualize staying at home all day without the mental stimulation which work they enjoy gives them. Others – and there are more and more of these – work because they have to do so in order to balance the family budget. Let us 36 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s But the old prejudices still linger. There is still a false impression that if a man marries a woman with any ambition beyond rocking the cradle and making minestra, he cannot be truly male. If he ‘allows’ his wife to pursue her career, indeed supports her in every way i u n e e 2 0 1 0 I f because of the nature of her work she happens to have a higher profile than his, he is truly to be pitied. Who wants to be upstaged by a mere woman, especially if she is your wife? He can’t be a regular guy they conclude. A T-shirt of some ten years ago sums up their attitude: “Wife wanted/Look like an angel/Cook like a gourmet/And bonk like a rabbit.” As a matter of fact if you will look around you will find that there is a certain type of man who dumps his wife of many years because in her middle age, she is starting to become too assertive for his liking. He then grabs himself either a much younger woman who is looking for a ‘protector’ or someone from one of those countries for whom the choice is between marriage – any marriage – or a life-time of misery and poverty. To them marriage is little more than a business. en need support T HAS HER SAY Men who feel inadequate and lack confidence are likely to set much store by being the bread-winners and might feel that their masculinity is threatened by a woman earning money of her own, even if her work is not particularly high-powered. It can be even harder if the woman’s work is more rewarding, better paid or of high status. There are men who only feel secure in their relationship if the woman stays home. It is infinitely more comfortable of course – especially for him. There are women who prefer not to work and enjoy being at home, taking life more calmly and looking after their loved ones full-time. In no way am I going to cast aspersions on them. It is a choice they have made and I respect it. The truth is that many of them have not had to slog through years of study so they do not have the feeling that all those years have been wasted if they are not working. As more and more women qualify professionally, more and more of them are going to want to work. women. What’s new? ÂTá ÅÉÜx tÇw ÅÉÜx ãÉÅxÇ ÖâtÄ|yç ÑÜÉyxáá|ÉÇtÄÄç? I t is hard to believe that men would be worse off by becoming more gentle. Nor would mildness of manner and social relations make them any the less manly. True maleness is never without its vein of femininity. I’ll let Jeffrey Richards, Professor of Cultural History at Lancaster University have the last word: “It is time to dethrone the idea that Real Men are aggressive, loud, competitive, unemotional, unexpressive and irresponsible and begin to shape a concept of Real Men as sensitive, concerned, tender and self-aware both in their dealings with each other and with women and children. In the recent past such figures have been dismissed as wimps and wets. But in the long run if civilization is to survive and violence be contained it is the wimps and wets that must inherit the earth.” And it is often the ‘wimps’ and ‘wets’ who are sensitive enough to understand the needs of their working wives. more and more of them are going to want to work.” You will find that the majority of women get most satisfaction out of their family rather than out of their job. It certainly has been that way for me, although I have always had jobs that I enjoyed tremendously and which gave me a window to the wider world which staying at home would not have done. But unless you have to make a choice between family and profession, a combination of both is the ideal. The problem is always one of balance. Women with a job and a family have to do a great deal of juggling if they want both. And they need oodles of energy. Not everyone can handle life in the fast lane. who have a career and are financially independent tend to love unconditionally. A relationship to them is not a meal ticket for life or an escape from a job which provides little more than torment. And believe it or not women with a brain and a profession can come up with a decent meal and may even bake the occasional cake. They may not be too obsessed about the dust on the wardrobes and the shine on the brass for to them their homes tend to be homes not showcases. There are many more interesting avenues to explore than the tops of wardrobes. They are not harridans but often sympathise more with their mates as they understand the hassles of a working day and may even offer some worthwhile advice. There’s even talk of the masculinity crisis. The public is given the image of females starving in vain for the attention of men, and of men, who egged on and deprived by frigid seductresses, end by falling into each other’s arms. This, some are saying, is why there is so much homosexuality. Women are demaculating men. By changing their traditional roles and no longer pretending to be damsels in distress women are ensuring that men feel less virile, less masculine. Since women can provide everything for themselves, one acquaintance told me, men are feeling useless as women don’t seem to need them anymore. When the moon is in the right phase heap all blame on the But having observed the social scene for a good many years I find that the truth is usually very different. You will find that in most cases when women have a worthwhile career and an intellect the chances are that the marriage is a happy one for it is based on equality and mutual respect and fulfillment, as long as the couple support each other. Women F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 37 Books The Island of San Giulio on Lake d’Orta, where the mysterious bone that distracted pilgrims was found A Guide to the Mysteries of Lake Maggiore ITALO-FRENCH AUTHOR, WILLIAM FACCHINETTI KERDUDO, SPEAKS TO RICHARD ZAHRA ABOUT HIS UNUSUAL GUIDEBOOK 38 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s associated with numerous sites around Lake Maggiore. “I wanted to write a guidebook that explores local curiosities,” he says, “unlike the traditional ones that focus only on architectural and historical descriptions.” The author William Facchinetti Kerdudo G uida ai Misteri del Lago Maggiore (Macchione Editore) is an innovative guidebook that steers intrepid and curious visitors away from the firmly-trampled tourist trail to discover overlooked mysterious places and historical figures that flavour one of the most celebrated Italian northern lakes. In his book, talented author William Facchinetti Kerdudo capitalizes on the innate curiosity of human nature and the lure of the intriguing tales that are i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Half Italian and half Breton, William Facchinetti Kerdudo is a man of many talents. He has pursued his passions for literature, music and photography, and after finishing his studies, he carved out a promising career in all three fields. His work was amongst the winning titles at the National Award of Creative Writing of Ivrea, and after graduating in lyrical music he authored, composed and sometimes performed songs that were played in clubs across Europe. As a photographer he set up various personal exhibitions and was amongst the winners at the international awards Quest of Fashion held at Pitti Uomo, Florence, in 2007. The Borromeo islands on Lake Maggiore. In his book, the author mentions many mysteries and curiosities related to these popular destinations K erdudo explains that writing the guidebook involved a lot of on-site research. He started off in local libraries by leafing through old texts, digging out local legends and mysterious historical characters. He spent six months visiting each location to verify and photograph the sites. Whenever possible, he also interviewed old people who were well-acquainted with local lore. addition, each site is marked with practical information such as directions of how to get there, whether it is open to the public and if payment is charged for visiting. “I am intrigued by stories of the supernatural,” admits Kerdudo, “but I did not want to limit my book to ghost stories, as that would have been annoying. Historical curiosities “I wanted to be sure that every legend, story or character I mentioned in the book had a sound base and that the facts I included were precise,” he comments. “I used a simple rule. For an entry to qualify for my book, I had to confirm it through three different sources.” The entries in the book are easy to find by travellers touring the area as the author has conveniently grouped them under the headings of the three provinces of Novara, Varese and Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, all of which border Lake Maggiore. The curiosities are well illustrated with the author’s own professional photographs. In 40 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s The she-devil at the Sacro Monte of Orta, one of the curiosities mentioned in the book i u n e e 2 0 1 0 and real characters can sometimes be more interesting than invented ones. For instance not so long ago, the well-preserved mummy of a woman dating from 1793 was found near a church. That is certainly not typical of this area!” Lake Maggiore and its environs are steeped in Christian myth. Some of these are well known and have been much written about. An example is the much celebrated story of San Giulio who built his hundredth church on an island over the scenic Lake Orta after banishing the evil creatures that lurked on it. “A less well-known story related to this place is that of the dragon’s rib,” adds Kerdudo. “This large bone was discovered during the 17th century when it was washed on the lake shore. People associated it with the creatures that had been defeated by San Giulio and for many years it was exhibited in San Giulio’s church. Later, the nuns had to remove the rib from public viewing as it became so sensational that visitors came to see it rather than coming in pilgrimage to the saint’s shrine.” The author William Facchinetti Kerdudo K erdudo believes that his guidebook goes some way to redressing the fact that many visitors brush over less glamorous yet still very interesting locations. “Everyone has heard of the leaning Tower of Pisa,” he says. “Yet few people ever notice the leaning church tower at the small hillside village of Massino Visconti, which perched at 465 metres above sea level, offers splendid vistas of Lake Maggiore. In addition, if you wander inside you will find a very curious detail that is very easy to overlook. There is a fresco of the crucifixion in which Jesus is depicted completely naked. This is a very rare example of its kind as at some point in history, nude depictions were covered on the Vatican’s order.” By means of his innovative guidebook, the author wants to draw the visitors’ attention to unusual and interesting details around them, which without direction would certainly be overlooked. “Every year, thousands of visitors flock to the Borromeo Palace and gardens on Isola Bella, and many remain open mouthed when they see the splendid Flemish tapestries on display,” says Kerdudo. “Yet few observe that the weavers included tiny saucy details, like for example, a mule copulating with a leopard. This is very out of the ordinary considering the austerity of that age. An even Saint Francis. It goes to show that the artists of the time had a mischievous sense of humour that has been passed on to us through the centuries.” William Facchinetti Kerdudo’s book evokes the unique, magical feel of Lake Maggiore and its environs, a region that has inspired writers and artists with its blend of natural wonders and rich history intertwined with ancient legends. Filled with passion and an unquenchable desire to find out about the mysterious and intriguing, the author is looking forward to more projects. His new book, Milano, misteri e itinerari insoliti tra realtà e leggenda (Casa Editrice Polaris SRL), has just been published and was an immediate success. As a result, the author will soon be wandering further than the limits of Lombardy to unearth more intriguing secrets. He has been commissioned to write guidebooks about the mysteries of Turin, Venice and Prague that are due to be published by 2010. And staying on the theme of mystery and intrigue, his first romanzo giallo (detective novel) will soon be on the bookshelves too! Man dressed as a woman at the Sacro Monte of Orta, another curiosity that seems at odds with the austere age during which these works were produced better example can be seen at the Sacro Monte near the town of Orta San Giulio. Amongst the hundreds of statues depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, there is one of a very masculine man dressed in women’s clothes, and another of a she-devil dangling her droopy breasts above F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 41 Opinion Cartoon by Paul Lachine Climate Science or Climate Evangelism? T AS GEORGE W. BUSH AND TONY BLAIR LEARNED THE HARD WAY, BJØRN LOMBORG ARGUES, THE PUBLIC DOES NOT TAKE KINDLY TO BEING MISLED ABOUT THE NATURE OF POTENTIAL THREATS. he after-the-fact revelation that the reasons for invading Iraq were vastly exaggerated – and in some cases completely fabricated – produced an angry backlash that helped toss the Republicans out of power in the United States in 2008 and may do the same to Britain’s Labour Party later this year. A similar shift in global public opinion is occurring with respect to climate change. The process picked up momentum late last year, after hackers leaked thousands of e-mails from a top British research facility showing that some of the world’s most influential climatologists had been trying to disguise flaws in their work, blocking scrutiny, and plotting together to enforce what amounts to a party line on climate change. More recently, the United Nations’ respected advisory group, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPPC), has been deeply embarrassed by the F e b r F u i a r r revelation that some alarming predictions contained in an influential report that it released in 2007 have little or no scientific basis. Although none of these lapses provides any reason to doubt that global warming is real, is manmade, and will create problems for us, these challenges to the IPCC are taking their toll. Indeed, recent surveys show that the public is growing steadily less trusting of the scientific consensus on global warming. s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 43 T he biggest headlines about IPCC errors concern a claim about melting Himalayan glaciers that it made in its 2007 report on the likely impacts of climate change. “Glaciers in the Himalaya are receding faster than in any other part of the world,” the report noted, adding that “if the present rate continues, the likelihood of them disappearing by the year 2035 and perhaps sooner is very high.” As it happens, this prediction was not based on any peer-reviewed scientific research but was lifted from a report by the World Wildlife Fund, which was repeating an unproven speculation by a single researcher. on any peer-reviewed science. Nonetheless, he explained, “we thought that if we can highlight it, it will impact policy-makers and politicians and encourage them to take some concrete action.” The concrete action that they had in mind was getting governments to mandate drastic cuts in carbondioxide emissions. Activists have been pursuing this approach to tackling global warming without success for nearly 20 years, most recently at last December’s failed climate summit in Copenhagen. The problem is that it is too expensive a solution for politicians and the public to swallow easily –which is why many well-meaning climate scientists have apparently concluded that instead of relying on reasoned discussion, they might as well try to scare us witless. This lack of scientific basis did not stop countless global-warming activists from citing the glacier prediction at every opportunity. When the Indian government suggested last year that the Himalayan glaciers were in better shape than the IPCC claimed, the IPCC’s chairman, Rajendra Pachauri, dismissed India’s objections as being based on “voodoo science.” supposedly found that global warming had doubled damage costs over the past 35 years. In fact, when this study was finally published, it stated categorically that there was “insufficient evidence” to link the increased losses to global warming. In other words, what Working Group II reported was plain wrong. Elsewhere in the 2007 assessment, Working Group II claimed that “up to 40% of the Amazonian forests” were at imminent risk of being destroyed by global warming. The basis for this claim was a single report from the World Wildlife Fund that itself cited only one study, which didn’t even look at climate change, but rather at the impact of human activities like logging and burning. In similar fashion, Working Group II claimed that “by 2020, in some [African] countries, yields from rain-fed agriculture could be reduced by up to 50%.” Much quoted since, this alarming statistic turns out to have been based on a single, unreferenced bullet-point from a report by an environmental think tank. Âg{x hÇ|àxw atà|ÉÇáË ÜxáÑxvàxw twä|áÉÜç zÜÉâÑ? à{x \ÇàxÜzÉäxÜÇÅxÇàtÄ ctÇxÄ on Climate Change (IPPC), has been deeply embarrassed There are numerous other by the revelation that some Earlier this month, the examples of similar alarming predictions Indian government reacted shenanigans by Working to the revelations about the Group II. Yet, aside from a contained in an influential baseless nature of the glacier grudging admission that its report that it released in predictions claim by announcing plans to about Himalayan 2007 have little or no glaciers were “poorly establish what amounts to its own “Indian IPCC” to assess the impact substantiated,” the IPCC has yet to scientific basis” of global warming. India’s environment minister, Jairam Ramesh, declared: “There is a fine line between climate science and climate evangelism. I am for climate science.” Consider what the IPCC had to say about extreme weather events such as intense hurricanes. The cost of such events in terms of destroyed property and economic disruption has been rising steadily. Every peer-reviewed study has shown that this is not because of rising temperatures, but because more people live in harm’s way. Climate evangelism is an apt description of what the IPCC has been up to, for it has exaggerated some of the ramifications of climate change in order to make politicians take note. Murari Lal, the coordinating lead author of the section of the IPCC report that contained the Himalayan error, admitted that he and his colleagues knew that the dramatic glacier prediction was not based 44 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s Nonetheless, in the IPCC’s influential 2007 assessment of climate change, the panel’s Working Group II (charged with assessing the potential impact of global warming) chose to cite one, then-unpublished study that z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 acknowledge – much less apologize for – any of the lapses. If the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change is to do to its job properly, it must own up to all of its missteps and clean house. Nobody expects it to be infallible. But neither should we tolerate its attempts to scare policy-makers rather than inform them. • Bjørn Lomborg is Director of the Copenhagen Consensus Center at Copenhagen Business School and the author of Cool It: The Skeptical Environmentalist’s Guide to Global Warming. Copyright: Project Syndicate, 2010. Travel Malta diary A “ nd another thing” Ms Christa called out to her class at the end of her lesson, “Anyone interested in an airline ticket to Malta, 2-week return, flight only?” Without giving it a second’s thought I called out: “I’ll take it!” I had always loved travelling, and with the exception of the then communist block countries, I had been practically everywhere in Europe. Everywhere except Malta… These were the Easter holidays of 1987. I did not know much about Malta, as I packed my stuff into my backpack. A couple of t-shirts, some underwear, shorts, swimwear, sunglasses and a toiletry bag. I liked travelling light. I wanted to be free. I wanted to rent a car to enjoy my newly acquired driver’s licence, and enjoy the sensation of being my own boss. As the plane approached the island, my heart beat faster when I caught sight of the archipelago: a golden yellow tint on the rooftops, the likes of which I had never seen before. It almost made me feel I was visiting Africa, had it not been for the numerous church-tops, which were clearly recognisable, even at that altitude. The primitive streets seemed wide and empty of traffic, and the surrounding sea a glittering turquoise. At Luqa Airport a friendly welcoming lady gave me a garland, a “What’s On” brochure and told me “Welcome to sunny Malta!” ANKE JABLINSKI HAS COMPLETED 50 VISITS TO MALTA. SHE WRITES OF HER EXPERIENCE AND HOW CHANCE BROUGHT HER TO MALTA FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 1987 Anke’s favourite temple Mnajdra, 1993 The smell struck me – it was a mixture of salt, sea and gasoline, some kind of herb, together with an earthy smell. It was a smell so unique and particular to Malta – one which I would never forget. A taxi driver offered his services and asked me if it was my first time in Malta. He started laughing when I told him that it was and wanted to rent a car. “Ok, ok, how old are you?” he wanted to know. “Twenty four” I said, which was a good thing, since one can’t get a rented car unless one is over 20. Twenty minutes later I was getting into an old, rickety, blue Honda with no mirrors whatsoever and a yellow number plate at a car-rental shop. The car looked like it could fall apart any minute, but it was super cheap and it was love at first sight for me, just like my first impression at the airport. A walk among the flowers at Gnejna Bay, 1989 46 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 I happily drove along the curvy coast road through Sliema and St Julian’s until I came to a small Hotel in the region of Spinola bay, where I was welcomed with a smile and an “alright?” I would stay in that hotel another eleven times. These first two weeks in Malta made me happy. I just loved the sense of humour of the people, who made me laugh more than I ever had. I loved the streets without traffic lights, and the roundabouts where everyone was careful how everyone else was driving. I loved the villages with the big churches and the small chapels, the bastions of Mdina, Valletta and the Three Cities, and the Knights’ Watch-towers. I also loved the English pubs, the colourful balconies and luzzi, the racing horses in the streets and the saltpans by the sea, the cliffs and rocks, where one could sunbathe before jumping into the sea. What really got me spellbound however were the Mnajdra and Hagar Qim temples. In those days Mnajdra was not fenced in, and I stayed for hours there by the temple staring into the sea. Later I would also visit the Hypogeum and the Ggantija temples. When I reluctantly flew back to Berlin, I decided that after finishing my compulsory education I would choose archaeology, history and English as my specialisations. These would fit nicely in my plans, for I wanted to go back to Malta, and maybe do my studies over there. Life, however, has a knack of not going according to plan. Although I did get my certificates translated into English, and I did apply to join the University of Malta, in the end various reasons kept me in Berlin. In the next three years I had visited Malta twelve times already, and it was then, in 1990, that I found a Maltese guy in Berlin who would help me learn some malti. He remains to this day one of my best friends in Malta. Although I did not end up studying in Malta, I did write a book about the Maltese islands and a few short stories, and my artistic streak made me paint scenes and take pictures of anything and everything like someone with an obsession. On Anke’s 20th visit at Tarxien temples, 1994 Since I have walked around a lot, I have come to know almost every nook and cranny of the island. I am always amazed that I can still discover new details that I had never seen before, which give me inspiration to paint or more frequently to take a picture. By now I have taken over 4000 photographs of Malta, Gozo and Comino. Since my first visit I have stayed in various towns and villages, in different types of accommodations. I have stayed in hotels, private residences, studio flats and farmhouses, in St Julians, Sliema, Gzira, Marsaxlokk, Marsascala, San Gwann, Marsalforn, Qbajjar, Xlendi, Xemxija, Gharb, Bahar ic-Caghaq, Qrendi, Mellieha, Marfa, Valletta… Â\ {täx uÜÉâz{à Åç á|áàxÜ? Åç ÅÉà{xÜ? Åç {âáutÇw tÇw ÅtÇç yÜ|xÇwá International Airport. With the closing of the year 2008, it is my 50th visit. A lot has changed, not just the airport. There are traffic lights now, and safety belts are compulsory, and the roads have tarmac. There are showy hotels and high-rise buildings, more people and cars, traffic jams and bad air. The Euro has replaced the Lira, and motorboats took the place of many luzzi and dghajjes. There are supermarkets everywhere, and the sense of humour has dwindled. And I can’t smell my beloved Malta-smell anymore. All the temples have been fenced in, for some had been vandalised. These are signs of our times, and not particular to Malta. So I sit in Armier bay, relaxed, looking at the fishermen, listening to the birds twittering with Comino in the background. I drink a lager and prosit myself on my 50th trip to Malta, for my love for Malta remains, now and forever. Nowadays besides running a copy-shop I have decided to also launch a Malta-shop, where paintings of Malta adorn the walls and a slide show of photos I have taken in Malta and Gozo plays on a screen. Besides being able to buy my photos and paintings, the shop also offers visitors the opportunity to buy Kinnie, La Valette wine, a Maltese cookbook, and my own book Zufluchtsort Malta – a mixture of a travel guide and autobiography of my experiences on the Maltese archipelago. with me to Malta, and all of them liked it a lot. I love Malta, it is my second home” I have brought my sister, my mother, my husband and many friends with me to Malta, and all of them liked it a lot. I love Malta, it is my second home, and I love showing it to other people to get them closer to it. When I land in Malta nowadays, a rented car would usually be waiting for me in the much bigger F e b r F u i a www.ankes-malta-shop.de www.ankejablinski.de www.ankescoppeeshop.de r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 47 First products LIGHT FANTASTIC FOR THE EYES Eyes, the ultimate seduction… Each woman’s eyes are a reflection of her unique beauty – but also a reflection of the passage of time. CHANEL PRÉCISION - ULTRA CORRECTION LIFT TOTAL EYE LIFT restores density, tone and suppleness to the eye area, for eyes that shine with a new-found radiance. This «eye-lifting» cream acts simultaneously on loss of firmness and poor microcirculation – the main factor responsible for the appearance of puffiness and dark circles. The fine and delicate skin of the eye area and of the eyelids appear lifted. In addition, a precious active ingredient reduces puffiness and unsightly dark circles. 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For further information please contact Alfred Gera & Sons Ltd. On Tel: 521 446205. 48 F i r s t J a n u a r M y a i g s a z i s u e n EVA GARDEN COMFORT FOUNDATION Get that smooth and luminous finish with Eva Garden’s Comfort Foundation. Very easy to apply, minimises imperfections with minimal effort and protects the skin from uv rays thanks to its SPF24. Comfort foundation’s very light texture, leaves your skin moisturized and young looking while guaranteeing long lasting coverage. Ideal for normal to dry skin. For your personal make up lesson contact Biocare Company Ltd. On 800 74 100 e 2 0 1 0 Lifestyle My Favourite room JOSETTE AND GEORGES MAGRI AT THEIR HOME, CASA BERNARD, IN RABAT Photos: Joe Demanuele www.joedemanuele.com • Tel: 21647250 50 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 W alking down any Maltese street with the limestone walls and the wooden balconies, one gets very few clues of what lies on the other side of the often crumbling façades. Important houses were for hundreds of years built defensively for fear that corsairs or an invading Ottoman army might carry off the owners to be sold into slavery. So, very often the façade gives little indication of what lies beyond. An ostentatious façade which attracted attention could be dangerous for its owners. Inside, however, can be very different from what the passer-by expects. Casa Bernard in Rabat is a case in point. It’s façade is unpretentious and belies what is inside once the threshold is crossed and one goes through the iron-studded front door. It is probable that the architect is Girolamo Cassar since at the same time he was building the St Augustine Priory and Church nearby. Â\à |á t ÑÄxtáâÜx yÉÜ âá àÉ ÄÉÉ~ tyàxÜ à{x {ÉâáxA The name of the house – Casa Bernard – was chosen because in 1723 Dr Salvatore Bernard who was of French origin, starting living in this palazzo. He was appointed medical superintendent to the Santo Spirito Hospital and was personal physician to the Grand Master. In fact Casa Bernard won an award from Europa Nostra in 2006 in the Special Mention Category for its splendid restoration. It was acclaimed as “an exercise in good taste and The Bernards, who were a family of doctors, as one of Malta’s hidden lived in the palazzo until gems, full of the the second quarter of the 20th century when the house charm of bygone was in the hands of the Bonavias, from whom Mr and Mrs days” Magri bought it. F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 51 C asa Bernard can be described as a 16th century palace but there has been a gradual evolution over the centuries starting off from Roman times. There are traces of Roman arches in the cellar, part of 52 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s which is now utilized as a family chapel. The Magris took over the palazzo in 1993 and restored it with love and attention to detail. This work lasted a few years after which they decided to open Casa z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Bernard to visitors, simply to give an idea of how an aristocratic Maltese family home functioned through the ages. Its many historical features date from the Roman period to the Medieval and to the time of the Knights of St John. T his magnificent house has a fascinating history and tours are conducted by the owners themselves who are very knowledgeable and point out features and tell stories of some of the beautiful objets d’art which they have either collected or inherited. Georges and Josette who are teachers by profession, retired a couple of years ago and now live permanently in Casa Bernard. Sitting in their favourite room, the magnificent drawing room on the ‘piano nobile’ I do not get the impression that I am in a museum because the house feels so lived in. As we talk about our pets we move on to the sadness that descends on one upon the loss of a beloved dog or cat. We move on to the topic of cremation and Josette remarks that she was present during one cremation. I ask her to tell me more and Georges gets up and brings back a framed photo. In it is their son Max when he was still a toddler and with him an African teenage F e b r F u i a girl. “That is Gennet, ” Mr Magri says. “She was originally from Ethiopia”. In the photo I can recognize the small pretty features typical of the people who populate one of the world’s most ancient countries. So who was Gennet and why did she come to mind as we were talking of cremation? The story, says Josette, started some 30 years ago. She always liked to give a helping hand to Sister Agnes who at the time had a home for single mothers in Balzan. r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 55 I “ t was only a few minutes away from where we lived and I would regularly drop in and do what was required, be it baking a cake or doing some fund-raising.” Josette had noticed a 12-year-old African girl there who seemed very frightened and out of place in a home for grown up Maltese women. Sister Agnes asked Josette if she could teach the girl some English and 56 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e from then on a relationship between the Magris and the girl started to develop. Gennet would sit in during Josette’s English lessons and she quickly became fluent in English. As it was apparent that Gennet was here to stay, Josette decided to teach her Maltese too. Unlike most Maltese children Gennet received her first Holy Communion when she was 14 and her confirmation some time later. Little by little she became part of the family and Georges and Josette took on the role of foster parents. She lived with them and was like an older sister to their son Max. But she got paid for babysitting him and no expense was spared in her upbringing. She was sent to the best private school and bought the nicest clothes. “She was like a daughter to us,” Georges comments. Unbeknown to them she had been saving all the money that she received and had accounts in England and Malta. Eventually she moved to England where she was diagnosed with cancer while still in her thirties. She refused treatment but told the Magris about her bank accounts. Georges urged her to write a will to at least leave her money to some orphanage in Ethiopia or to the Good Shepherd Convent where they had first met her. Her money, they pointed out, would help children like her who had been abandoned. However in the same way that she refused treatment, she also refused to write a will. Unfortunately therefore her money went to the Maltese and British states. “She could have helped so many other children,” Josette remarks, pensively. In England where she passed away, a few months later, she was cremated and that is how Josette and Georges came to experience a cremation ceremony. e 2 0 1 0 I t is cold and the February wind is howling outside so Georges lights the fire, a welcome gesture. Centuries ago the simple act of lighting a fire and keeping a fireplace clean would have been carried out by a retinue of servants but times have changed and few noble homes can nowadays afford the luxury of a posse of servants. “We have a lot of free time now”, Josette remarks, “and it is a pleasure for us to look after the house. In fact Casa Bernard won an award from Europa Nostra in 2006 in the Special Mention Category for its splendid restoration. It was acclaimed as “an exercise in good taste and as one of Malta’s hidden gems, full of the charm of bygone days.” I almost reluctantly leave this charming couple who are blessed with a generosity of spirit as well as many other qualities. It makes a change to meet people who have so much but yet are authentic in every way. www.casabernard.com F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 57 Culture vulture An e Antonio Pinto Basto, Maria Ana Bobone and show producer Miguel Capucho Maria Ana Bobone, Mr Bruno Bobone, H.E. Antonio Ramalho Ortigao, Marquis Anthony Cremona Barbaro The Portugese ambassador Antonio Ramalho Ortigao, Mr Nuno Martins and Mrs Martins 58 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 M am fo Ambassador of Portugal presenting flowers to Maria Ana Bobone n evening of sheer delight T he Embassy of Portugal in collaboration with Pinto Basto Ltd. organised a Fado night at the Chameleon Suite, Corinthia Place Hotel, Attard last December. Fado which means destiny or fate, is characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor. The first part of the show consisted of an impeccable performance by Maria Ana Bobone who also gave her very personal interpretation of fado. The second part of the evening consisted of a great performance by Antonio Pinto Basto who celebrated his 35 year of ‘marriage’with Fado in 2007. Without doubt, the concert reached its peak with a duet by Maria Ana and Antonio. The concert was under the direction of Miguel Capucho. The audience which consisted of several Porthugese living in Malta, packed the suite and showed their heartfelt appreciation by much clapping. During the reception which followed there was much praise for the musicians as well and Maria Ana and Antonio mixed with the guests, who were delighted to meet them. This was another cultural event supported by Banif Bank (Malta) plc and the Instituto Camoes – Portugal’s cultural institute. Mrs Fenech Adami, Dr Edward Fenech Adami, The Portugese ambassador, The ambassador of the USA Mr. Douglas Kmiec, former ambassador Sally Novetske Mrs Annette Braun, The German ambassador. Mr Bernd Braun, Mrs Emma Mifsud Bonnici F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 59 Social whirl Brigadier Vassallo , Dr Claude Busuttil and Dr Antonio Espinosa Rodriguez Baron S. Testaferrata Moroni Viani, Mr Silvio Bonett, two guests and Mr Joe Mifsud Apostolic Nuncio to Malta Tommaso Caputo Mons George Mifsud Montanaro and his sister Mr Brian Blackburn, Mrs Marceline Blackburn, Mr Gordon Mather and Mrs Julia Mather Mr Gerald Grech and guest The French ambassador and Mme. Rondeau The young Latvians singing in the chapel The Latvian group 60 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e e 2 0 1 0 Mrs Gita Furber de la Fuente Dr Lydia… Fr Marius Zerafa The Russian ambassador, Mr & Mrs Carmelo Abela and the Apolostic Nuncio Mr Albert Storace and Ms Joyce Guillaumier Ms Marika Mizzi, Mr Alex Caruana Soler, Capt. Mark Mallia Russians celebrate Orthodox Christmas Judge Joseph Filletti Photos: Joe Demanuele O n the 7 January a ceremony hosted by HE The ambassador of Russia to Malta, Andrey Evgenievich Granovsky, was held at the Russian Chapel at San Anton Palace. A young group wearing their national costume came from Latvia to sing to those who attended the ceremony. The chapel was filled to capacity. A reception was held afterwards in the spacious and beautiful reception area of San Anton Palace. The Russian ambassador to Malta Mrs Irina Medvedeva Mr Albert Gauci, Dr Olga Gauci and Ms Marie Louise Gangi F e b r F u i a r r s y t M i s s a g a u e z 2 i 0 n 1 e 0 61 History The Gozo Siddeley after restoration Descent of the Holy Spirit, Alessio Erardi, 1719, St Mark’s Church, Rabat A fireworks machine Full of treasures I THE LATEST ISSUE OF TREASURES OF MALTA, PUBLISHED BY FONDAZZJONI PATRIMONJU MALTI IS A VERITABLE TREASURE HOUSE FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN THE HISTORY OF THESE ISLANDS. n this issue J.C. Sammut and E. Azzopardi comment on the important recent discovery of the first coin known to have been minted in Malta by its Arab rulers in their article: A unique medieval Fatimid gold coin of Malta. Krystle Farrugia brings out the high quality of the building of the Carmelite church in Mdina, and of the artistic works it contains in her article An artistic appreciation of the Carmelite Church, Mdina which is beautifully illustrated. Carmen Depasquale writes a detailed account of the passage of the famous Cippi, so important for deciphering of the Phoenician alphabet and which is in the Louvre Museum in Paris. Judge Giovanni Bonello and his sister, Mrs Anna Xuereb recently donated a painting by Philippo Paladini to the National Collection in memory of their father. Alessandro Debono, writes an indepth piece about it. 62 F i F e r b s r t u a M a r y g i a s z s i u n e There are many more interesting articles in this volume of Treasures of Malta which is edited by Dr Paul Xuereb. I particularly enjoyed reading the lively account of the First motor car in Gozo written by Judge Giovanni Bonello. The 1904 Siddeley was bought by Marietta, Caroline and Carmela Spiteri and is still in existence in the UK. How’s that for women with vision? Another interesting piece is by Willian Zammit who writes about an 18th century machine used in Malta for fireworks displays. As from this issue Treasures of Malta will include a new series of prints from the Albert Ganado Collection. There are letters, a cultural calendar and so much more which is of interest to the cultivated man and woman. Treasures of Malta is available at leading booksellers. e 2 0 1 0 competition question: Who features in My Favourite Room this month? Answer Name this month’s competition Address You could win one of the following prizes: One of three Avon products courtesy of Nova Company Ltd. A Police set of body essentials – eau de toilette and body cream for ladies courtesy of Charles de Giorgio Ltd. A Pupa prize courtesy of Medimports A Pot luck prize Last month’s winners are: One of three Avon products: Tania Busuttil of Valletta; Maria Borda of Balzan and Noelene Mifsud of Mosta Two John Frieda products: Josephine Cauchi of Sliema A Pupa Fragrance: Mary Grech of Zabbar A Pot luck prize: Marthese Mamo of Birkirkara Postcode Telephone Number E-mail: CLOSING DATE 15 March 2010 Send your entries to:- ‘FIRST’ competition, Standard Publications Ltd, Standard House, B’Kara Hill, St Julian’s, STJ1149