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Brazil’s Beach Party (The New York Times –
18/11/2007)
Brazil is to cool what China is to commerce. And Bahia is the country's
beachside boom state, the red-hot resort of the moment drawing a new wave of
pleasure seekers — the fashion crowd, music lovers, off-duty movie stars — to its
650 miles of palm-fringed sand.
8 Days on the Coast of Brazil
1) Start off in Salvador. Check into the Convento do Carmo, then see the
capoeira dancers and have dinner at Solar do Unhão.
2) After touring Baroque buildings in the city's Pelourinho district, tuck into the
moqueca at the Sorriso da Dadá restaurant. Then go to a concert at Terreiro de
Jesus square.
3) Catch a plane to Porto Seguro (www.tam.com.br; $150 round trip), then a
taxi to Trancoso. Check into the Pousada Etnia (www.etniabrasil.com.br).
4) Hit Itapororoca beach in the morning and Trancoso or Coqueiros beach in
the afternoon. Join the beautiful people for a caipisake at Capim Santo.
5) Take a day trip to Praia do Espelho — a long stretch of white sand — with a
driver from Portomondo (www.portomondo.com). Have lunch at Silvinha's.
6) Browse the sexy Brazilian swimwear shops (Lenny, Osklen) on Trancoso's
main square, the Quadrado. Later, join the samba line at O Tempo Rei.
7) Hop a flight north from Porto Seguro to Ilhéus for a stay at the Txai resort in
nearby Itacaré. Sign up for an afternoon horseback-riding trip.
8) Surf and swim off Tiririca beach, then bliss out with a seven-herb body
treatment and an abhyanga massage at the Txai spa.
Room Mates: Hotel options, both high and low.
Convento do Carmo
Salvador's grande dame occupies an 18th-century colonial convent in the
historic center, itself a Unesco World Heritage site. The often inattentive staff
needs a refresher course, but the art is spectacular. Rua do Carmo 1; 011-55-713327-8400; www.pousadas.pt; doubles from $750.
Pousada do Boqueirão
The 15 light-flooded rooms in this Salvador town house near the bay are done in
a spare Old World style. One caveat: the area can be sketchy at night. Rua
Direita
do
Santo
Antônio
48;
011-55-71-3241-2262;
www.pousadaboqueirao.com.br; doubles from $90.
Txai
This ultraluxe resort in Itacaré has 40 bungalows — some with
private pools and outdoor massage tables — tucked into acres of
coconut groves. The (almost) private beach is shaded by swaying
palms. Rodovia Ilheús Itacaré, Kilometer 48; 011-55-11-6858-7777;
www.txai.com.br; doubles from $485.
Etnia
André Zanonato and Corrado Tini's garden-shaded pousada in Trancoso has
eight simple bungalows. It's steps from the Quadrado, yet so secluded you'll
need a flashlight at night. Rua Principal; 011-55-73-3668-1137;
www.etniabrasil.com.br; doubles from $194.
Fazenda Da Lagoa
The privacy of these 14 minimalist bungalows — on an undeveloped beach in the
middle of rain forest and wetlands in Ilhéus — has drawn celebrities like
Valentino and Lizzy Jagger. Rodovia BA 001, Una; 011-55-73-3236-6046;
www.fazendadalagoa.com.br; doubles from $360.
Tauana
This stylish nine-bungalow resort in Corumbau is a 15-minute plane ride from
Trancoso and the ultimate in eco-chic: It sponsors an extensive reforestation
project and is near national parks and coral reefs. 011-55-73-3668-5172;
www.tauana.com; doubles from $665.
Carnival Crews
The February bacchanal in Salvador is an over-the-top, juking-and-jiving street
party. Who's who, and how does it work?
Rei Momo: The King of Carnival, Momo, is handed the keys to the city at 8 p.m.
on the Thursday before Fat Tuesday, and the party officially begins.
Afro-Brazilian Blocos: These troupes of up to 200 drummers parade through
the streets trailed by trucks loaded with singers and blaring music. The most
celebrated are Filhos de Gandhi, Timbalada and Ilê Aiyê.
Blocos: Smaller, themed parades, these are the only processions anyone can
join, as long as you buy a costume and pay an entrance fee of anywhere between
$40 and $470 (go to www.carnaval.com or www.portaldocarnaval.ba.gov.br).
Camarotes: These grandstands line the street in the neighborhood of Campo
Grande. Watch the show from here without being trampled by the crowd.
Trios Eléctricos: Outfitted with deafening sound systems, these 60-foot-long
trucks carry a kick line of gyrating, scantily clad dancers along with the city's
best-loved performers, among them Ivete Sangalo, Daniela Mercury and
Chiclete Com Banana.
Rhythm Nation
Salvador's musicians are creating a Bahian music explosion. Singers like these
three play every night in clubs, halls and parks all over town.
Carlinhos Brown: One of Brazil's top percussionists and the founder of the band
Timbalada. Essential CD: “A Gente Ainda Não Sonhou” Tip: Rising stars play at
Brown's community center in Candeal. Take a taxi “a casa do Carlinhos Brown”
on Tuesday, Thursday or Friday afternoons.
Ivete Sangolo: One of Brazil's most popular and successful singers. Her style is
axé, a Bahian mix of African, samba and pop. Essential CD: “As Super Novas”
Tip: Some of Sangolo's favorite bands play all summer in Pelourinho, notably on
the Largo Quincas Berro D´Àgua.
Tom Zé: A pillar of the tropicália movement, along with Caetano Veloso and
Gilberto Gil. Essential CD: “Fabrication Defect” Tip: Zé likes Olodum, which
plays Tuesdays at 7 p.m. at Ensaios do Olodum in Pelourinho (Largo Teresa
Batista). Catch Zé himself at the Concha Acústica in Campo Grande (Praça 2 de
Julho).
Divine Design
Latin America's greatest concentration of Baroque buildings is in Salvador's
Pelourinho district. Start with these five churches.
Church of São Francisco
This seemingly modest structure may be dedicated to the patron saint of the
poor, but behind the plain facade is an interior covered with gold, priceless
azulejos (painted tiles) and masterful religious paintings. Largo do Cruzeiro de
São Fransciso.
Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos
Built by slaves, it's one of the unofficial headquarters of the Afro-Brazilian
religion of Candomblé. Sunday Mass includes singing by a gospel-like choir, and
many of the saints depicted inside double as Candomblé deities. Largo do
Pelourinho.
Cathedral Basílica
This ornate church contains the tomb of the great Portuguese conquistador
Mem de Sá. The square in front hosts samba and reggae bands on Tuesdays.
Terreiro de Jesus.
Carmo Church
It houses one of Brazil's most sacred effigies — a statue of Christ in agony carved
in 1730 by an untutored black slave, Francisco Xavier das Chagas, known to his
masters simply as “the goat.” The red for the blood was made from more than
2,000 rubies crushed in whale oil. Ladeira do Carmo.
Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
This is Salvador's most important house of worship — believers make a
pilgrimage here every January. Kids out front sell ribbons measuring exactly 18
1/2 inches (the diameter of the arm on the Christ statue in the sacristy) for good
luck. Itapagipe.
Brazilian Bounty
Trancoso's main square, the Quadrado, is lined with boutiques — and not a
luxury-brand outpost among them. T's top picks:
Pick up bikinis at the boho-chic Lenny (Praça São João; 011-55-73-3668-1908;
www.lenny.com.br) and men's suits — particularly square-cut Lycra trunks — at
Osklen (in the Etnia boutique, Praça São João; 011-55-73-3668-1137;
www.etniabrasil.com.br). For home accessories, head to Cheia de Graça (01155-73-3668-1492) for Laila Assef's lamps made of recycled trash. At Iemanjá
(011-55-73-3668-2344), the local forró D.J. Ramon Lima makes Pop Art
religious statuary, and at A Marcenaria Trancoso (011-55-73-3668-1023),
Ricardo Salem sells coconut jewelry boxes in Gaudíesque shapes.
Dance Fever
Capoeira — the spinning, acrobatic blend of fighting and dance set to music and
drumming — was born in Bahia. See it in Salvador many evenings in Terreiro de
Jesus square or at the Solar do Unhão restaurant (Avenida Contorno 8,
Comércio; 011-55-71-3329-5551; dinner and show, $40).
Private Paradise
When you're traveling with family — or an entourage — you might need to
upgrade from hotel to house. Brazilian Beach House has high-end options in
and around Trancoso, Espelho beach and Itacaré. Each villa comes with a chef,
a concierge and a staff who can wrangle invitations to under-the-radar parties
(www.brazilianbeachhouse.com; from $7,000 a week). Brazil Ventura rents
apartments in Salvador, some in prime carnival-watching locations
(www.brazilventura.com; from $300 a week). And Bahia Forte Imóveis has
properties on the beaches just north of the city, including the popular family
resort Praia do Forte (www.bahiaforteimoveis.com.br; from $700 a week).
Hot Dish
Some of Brazil's most famous food hails from this part of the country, and in
Salvador and Trancoso, enterprising restaurants are refining the classics and
adding an international twist.
Sorriso da Dadá
The queen of traditional Bahian fare, Aldaci dos Santos (known as Dadá), began
selling acarajé on the streets of Salvador. Now her restaurant draws the likes of
Gilberto Gil and Hillary Rodham Clinton for moquecas (crawfish and prawns in
palm oil and coconut) and other spicy Afro-Brazilian food. Rua Frei Vicente 5,
Pelourinho; 011-55-71-3321-9642; entrees $5 to $10.
Soho
A-listers crowd the long bar at this Salvador hot spot for caipirinhas before
sitting down to Rogério Bispo's sashimi and sushi. The Saõ Paulo chef gives his
fish a Bahian gloss with herb-infused oil, oyster sauce and red pepper. Come
late and grab a table on the veranda. Avenida Contorno 1010, Bahia Marina;
011-55-71-3322-4554; entrees $4 to $15.
O Cacau
For über-traditional Bahian cooking, Trancoso's smart set heads to Dora
Miranda's bare-bones joint on the Quadrado. The spicy menu includes mini
acarajé balls (mashed beans fried in palm oil) with vatapá (a garlicky paste of
shrimp and coconut) and camarão nativo made with prawns caught only hours
before. Praça São João 96; 011-55-73-3668-1266; entrees $20 to $30.
Capim Santo
The idyllic garden of this Trancoso favorite is as much a draw as Sandra
Marques's excellent fusion cooking. The Saõ Paulo chef takes cues from Italy
(penne with seafood in white sauce) and Japan (caipisakes) while never
abandoning the home turf (prawns encased in manioc). Rua de Beco 55; 011-5573-3668-1122; www.capimsanto.com.br; entrees $15 to $25.
The New Wave
Bahia has always been celebrated for its folk-art tradition. But the state also
fosters creative talent working in contemporary media. Here are five artists to
know.
1) Christian Cravo
A Guggenheim fellow, this photographer has shown his haunting images of
backland Bahia at New York's Throckmorton Fine Art Gallery. You can see them
at his studio in Salvador. Avenida Estados Unidos 18, Sala 325; 011-55-71-88096521; www.christiancravo.com; by appointment.
2) Deoscoredes Maximiliano dos Santos
Known as Mestre Didi, he's one of the most well-known Afro-Brazilian artists
(he has shown at the Pompidou Centre). Find him in Salvador at Prova do
Artista. Rua Bartolomeu de Gusmão, Rio Vermelho; 011-55-71-3331-6247.
3) Yanna Soares
She's an emerging silk-screen artist of the Nova Tropicália school (think bright
colors) who studied at the Pratt Institute. Her next exhibit will be in December
at the Etnia hotel in Trancoso. Rua Principal; 011-55-73-3668-1137;
www.etniabrasil.com.br.
4) Sérgio Rabinovitz
Bahia's most important painter studied at Cooper Union School of Art. He
recently showed his abstract canvases in London at Brazilian Contemporary
Arts. Get a look in his Salvador studio. Rua do Balneário 6-E, Amaralina; 01155-71-3248-1071; by appointment.
5) Mario Cravo Neto
This photographer uses nude figures and natural objects (feathers, stone) to
depict the beliefs of Candomblé. His moody pictures are on display at Galeria
Paulo Darzé in Salvador. Rua Dr. Chrysippo de Aguiar 8, Corredor da Vitória;
011-55-71-3267-0930; www.paulodarzegaleria.com.br.
BeachCombing: Just Pick Your Paradise
ESCAPE
Ilha do Goió, a tiny island in the Baía de Camamú just north of Itacaré (itself an
hour and a half from either Salvador or Trancoso), is little more than deserted
white sand lapped by turquoise water. Get there by boat — the tour company
Órbita can take you (www.orbitaexpedicoes.com.br) — and play castaway for a
day. On the next-door Ilha do Sapinho is Bom Jesus da Lapa's restaurant (01155-73-9996-1388), where you can eat crawfish caught to order from the end of
the pier.
SURF
Bahia's best surfing spot is in Itacaré. Tiririca beach has waves good enough to
host national championships, talcum-powder sand and a string of cheap
pousadas that rent boards by the hour, day or week.
SOCIAL
Trancoso beach may not be the most beautiful in the area, but you're not here
for the scenery. This is the center of glam Bahia, where the bikinied lovelies
frolic in the surf (without actually swimming) while their men flex and preen on
the volleyball court.
SAND
Espelho beach is Bahia's much-photographed shoreline: a perfect crescent of
white backed by acres of green. Just offshore are visible coral formations that at
low tide create swimming-pool-size lagoons of clear water. Lunch at Silvinha's
shore-side restaurant is a Bahia ritual.
SOLITUDE
Surrounded by protected rain forest and mangroves, the little village and beach
of Ponta do Corumbau are 30 miles from Trancoso by car but a world away from
the scene. Walk half an hour north or south of town and you'll barely see
another soul all day.
Night Moves
With the fashion flock descending on Trancoso by the G-4 load, carousing has
been honed to a high art. Here, a night on the town in five easy steps.
1) Start with a drink on the seaside patio at Maritaca, a newcomer with a
Marrakesh theme. Rua do Telégrafo 338; 011-55-73-3668-1258.
2) Have dinner at Japaiano, the buzziest spot in town. Felipe Bronze (who
trained at Nobu and Le Bernardin) turns out Asian-Bahian concoctions like
prawn and squid moqueca in green Thai curry sauce. 011-55-73-3668-2121;
www.hoteldapraca.com.br; entrees $10 to $25.
3) Then it's off to O Tempo Rei, the current favorite boîte, with live music,
mojitos and a starlit dance floor. Praça São João 172; 011-55-73-3668-1472.
4) After midnight, the party heats up at São Braz, an open-air club with the
town's liveliest forró, a staccato style of Brazilian dance music heavy on the
accordion and drums. Praça São João.
5) At sunup, join the fishermen on the Quadrado for Brazilian empanadas
(empadas) from Dona Maria, who sells her amazing pies with the help of her 9year-old grandson from a tiled stall in front of the Ainarí boutique.